how to adjust push rods for harley evo

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Harley-Davidson Camshaft TC, EVO, Shovelhead, XL EVO, Iron Head, XR Specifications

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-11-2010

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EVO Black Widow PP8833-2 – 29 55 62 25 264 267 54 103 109 105.8 0.600 0.602 EVO Black Widow PP8826-2 – 27 61 63 29 268 272 56 107 107 107.0 0.602 0.602 EVO Black Widow PP8817-2 – 254 254 0.590 0.590 EVO Carl’s Speed Shop CM4 – 28 44 52 20 252 252 48 98 106 102.0 0.495 0.495 EVO Carl’s Speed Shop CM495F Y 19 47 50 16 246 246 35 104 107 105.5 0.495 0.495 0.179 0.168 EVO Carl’s Speed Shop CM580 – 19 47 50 16 246 246 35 104 107 105.5 0.580 0.580 0.194 0.163 EVO Carl’s Speed Shop CM612 – 36 60 68 28 276 276 64 102 110 106.0 0.612 0.612 0.277 0.235 88 EVO Carl’s Speed Shop CM660 – 38 62 68 28 280 276 66 102 110 106.0 0.660 0.660 0.314 0.277 90 EVO Carl’s Speed Shop CM774 – 284 284 0.784 0.784 0.277 0.236 EVO Carl’s Speed Shop CM780F – 34 70 74 30 284 284 64 108 112 110.0 0.774 0.774 103 EVO Crane EVR0020 – 31 64.5 77 23 275 280 54 107 117 112.0 0.608 0.589 88 EVO Crane Fireball 2000 Y -12 22 20 -10 190 190 -22 107 105 106.0 0.490 0.490 0.026 0.032 EVO Crane Fireball 300 Y 12 34 41 15 226 236 27 101 103 102.0 0.490 0.490 4000 EVO Crane Fireball 310 Y 16 40 43 19 236 242 35 102 102 102.0 0.490 0.490 1500 4500 75 EVO Crane Fireball 316 Y 19 43 48 24 242 252 43 102 102 102.0 0.490 0.490 2000 5000 80 EVO Crane Fireball 326 – 24 48 57 25 252 262 49 102 106 104.0 0.490 0.500 2500 5500 EVO Crane H286 Y 19 43 48 24 242 252 43 102 102 102.0 0.490 0.490 2000 5000 80 EVO Crane H290 – 17 43 45 23 240 248 40 103 101 102.0 0.581 0.581 1800 5200 EVO Crane H296 – 24 48 57 25 252 262 49 102 106 104.0 0.490 0.500 2500 5500 EVO Crane H304 – 24 50 55 25 254 260 49 103 105 104.0 0.600 0.600 2500 5800 EVO Crane H306 – 28 54 69 23 262 272 51 103 113 108.0 0.500 0.510 0.224 0.195 3000 6000 EVO Crane H310 – 23 63 68 28 266 276 51 110 110 110.0 0.550 0.550 0.229 0.229 3000 6500 88 EVO Crane H314 – 26 54 65 21 260 266 47 104 112 108.0 0.600 0.600 2800 6000 EVO Crane HEV0042 – 27 59 71 23 266 274 50 106 114 110.0 0.600 0.576 0.226 0.194 3000 6000 100 116 EVO Crane HEV0067 – 24 50 56 24 254 260 48 103 106 104.5 0.600 0.530 0.128 0.113 EVO Crane HEV0098 – 36 62 72 34 278 286 70 103 109 106.0 0.650 0.650 0.171 0.156 96 EVO CycleRama CR-E550 – 24 52 53 23 256 256 47 104 105 104.5 0.550 0.530 EVO CycleRama CR-E581 – 22 46 53 23 248 256 45 102 105 103.5 0.581 0.550 EVO CycleRama CR-E600A – 24 50 56 24 254 260 48 103 106 104.5 0.600 0.530 EVO CycleRama CR-E600B – 23 51 54 22 254 256 45 104 106 105.0 0.600 0.550 EVO CycleRama CR-E617 – 22 50 50 22 252 252 44 104 104 104.0 0.617 0.617 EVO CycleRama CR-E630 – 18 60 63 13 258 256 31 111 115 113.0 0.630 0.630 EVO CycleRama CR-E660 – 27 59 71 23 266 274 50 106 114 110.0 0.660 0.660 3500 6500 140 EVO Dave Mackie DM500 Y 22 38 52 12 240 244 34 98 110 104.0 0.500 0.500 0.189 0.138 EVO Dave Mackie DM500X Y 25 40 55 20 245 255 45 98 108 102.5 0.500 0.500 0.208 0.178 EVO Dave Mackie DM530 – 28 42 55 15 250 250 43 97 110 103.5 0.530 0.530 0.221 0.141 EVO Dave Mackie DM580 – 26 42 56 12 248 248 38 98 112 105.0 0.580 0.580 0.227 0.144 113 EVO Dave Mackie DM581 – 26 42 56 12 248 248 38 98 112 105.0 0.580 0.580 0.227 0.144 EVO Dave Mackie DM595 – 21 49 57 14 250 251 35 104 112 107.8 0.595 0.595 0.192 0.150 EVO Dave Mackie DM635 – 20 56 59 18 256 257 38 108 111 109.3 0.635 0.635 0.194 0.176 EVO Edlebrock 1740 Y 19 43 48 24 242 252 43 102 102 102.0 0.490 0.490 0.176 0.203 EVO Edlebrock 1741 – 20 46 52 22 246 254 42 103 105 104.0 0.600 0.600 0.183 0.187 EVO Head Quarters HQ-23 – 19 47 52 24 246 256 43 104 104 104.0 0.600 0.530 EVO Head Quarters HQ-24 Y 20 36 52 19 236 251 39 98 107 102.3 0.500 0.500 EVO Head Quarters HQ-25 – 18 38 42 14 236 236 32 100 104 102.0 0.550 0.550 EVO Head Quarters HQ-26 – 20 54 53 22 254 255 42 107 106 106.3 0.600 0.530 89 EVO Head Quarters HQ-27 – 26 60 70 24 266 274 50 107 113 110.0 0.650 0.575

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KAWASAKI TERYX EFI Installation Instructions.

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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Basic Tuning Adjustments 1. The following instructions are for basic fuel tuning. Modes 1,2, & 3 are allowing adjustments to increase and decrease the amount of fuel the engine needs. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning only. DO NOT change modes 4 & 5 when doing basic tuning! 2. To help understand how these modes work, you can think of them as if you were working with a carburetor. 3. Remember each time you push the MODE button you will be advancing to the next mode. Push the MODE button once and you are now in mode 1, push the MODE button again and you are now in mode 2 and so on. You only need to be concerned with modes 1, 2 & 3 for basic tuning. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning ONLY. 4. If you need to go back to the settings that were pre programmed when you purchased the controller, just look at the picture in each mode, the colored square represents where the settings were when you purchased the controller. 5. Looking at the controller you will see eight lights with numbers under them, this is what you need to look at when changing settings. The #1 light on the controller represents the leanest setting. TRINITY RACING DOES NOT TAKE REPONSIBLITY FOR DAMAGES THAT MAY OCCUR DURING OPERATION OF YOUR VEHICLE UNDER IMPROPER JET SETTINGS. IT IS THE FINAL RESPONSIBLITY OF THE OWNER/RIDER TO ADJUST JETTING TO SPECIFIC RIDING CONDITIONS AND ELEVATION BEFORE RIDING. WARNING! 1.877.FAS TOYS 2.Remove both seats 6. Re-install engine cover and seats. 6. Mode 1 green light represents idle & cruise adjustment (i.e. pilot jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button once and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 7. Mode 2 yellow light represents an additional amount of fuel added during acceleration (i.e. needle position). To adjust this setting, push MODE twice and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 12 34 56 7 8 12 34 56 7 8 8. Mode 3 red light represents more fuel being added during full throttle (i.e. main jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button three times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 9. If you are confident about your tuning skills and feel you need to adjust other parameters, see Advanced Tuning. 12 34 56 7 8 Advanced Tuning Adjustments 1. Advance tuning has two modes in which to adjust. They are called mode 4 and mode 5. In basic tuning, you are changing the amount of fuel that the engine receives, but with advance tuning, you will be changing when the fuel will be available. In each mode you can adjust how soon the fuel delivery occurs. 2. Mode 4 yellow light and blue light represent when the fuel delivery is available during partial throttle acceleration. To adjust this setting, push the MODE button four times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. Only the yellow light will be changing.

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Harley Davidson Five Speed Transmissions Hydraulic Clutch Modification

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Hydraulic Clutch Modification for Harley Davidson With Champion Reverse Gear 1 1.1 Install Reverse Gear Assembly to gearbox. 1.2 Remove clutch cover (left side). 1.3 Remove Release Plate (clutch adjustment) and Push Rods. 1.4 Install Hydraulic Clutch Release Cover with supplied spacer and two gaskets. 1.5 Bleed clutch system. NOTE: When bleeding clutch system, lever feel will become hard, do not force lever because piston is at end of travel.(Continue Bleeding) 2 2.1 Install Push Rod. 2.2 Push the rod into clutch assembly to force hydraulic piston to its start position. Push the rod hard until the clutch cylinder is fully compressed. This is the start position. 2.3 Install Hydraulic Clutch Throw-Out Bearing Holder and bearing to push rod. Do not install circlip at this time. 2.4 If the throw-out bearing holder does not fully seat into the Pressure Plate (Figure 2.4), proceed to step 2.5. If shaft is too short then use throw-out bearing holder from Champion Reverse Gear Kit, skip next step and proceed to 3.0 2.5 Measure distance between bearing holder and pressure plate (ensure that push rod is pushed in) Figure 2.4 2.6 Remove bearing holder and push rod, reinstall bearing holder until seated (without push rod). Measure distance from pressure plate to bearing holder. Figure 2.6 2.7 Add measurements taken in steps 2.5 and 2.6 2.8 Add 0.090″ to total of step 2.7 (allowance for clutch plate wear). Measurement should be approximately 1/8″. 2.9 Measure push rod length. 2.10 Subtract measurement of step 2.8 from measurement of step 2.9 (push rod length). This measurement represents the amount of material to be removed from ball end of push rod. (Step 2.11)

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HSR Carburetor Total Kits Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Intake Manifold: 1. Install MAP sensor in Mikuni manifold (Twin Cam only). 2. Attach the Mikuni manifold to the engine. Align the manifold before tightening the bolts. The flange surface of the Mikuni manifold should be parallel with the front of the engine’s cam cover. Use a level or angle meter to check this. Tighten the manifold bolts. 3. Attach the rubber flange to the Mikuni manifold with the furnished 5/16″x3/4″ bolts and washers. Choke Cables: Mikuni & Harley-Davidson Route the cable with largest radius bends possible. Check the cable for free-play after installation. If there is no free-play, the engine may run rich and deliver poor performance or low fuel mileage. Harley Cable (Twin Cam Kits: 42-19, 45-4) : 1. Remove the Harley choke cable from the stock carb. 2. Remove the spring and plunger from the cable. 3. Remove the spring and plunger from the Mikuni. 5. Install the Mikuni spring and plunger onto the Harley choke cable. Change nothing else; be sure to use the Harley plastic nut, not the Mikuni nut (See Figure 1). Total Kit Installation Instructions The HSR series carburetors are precise yet durable instruments; however, like any other piece of fine equipment, they require correct installation and reasonable care to assure optimum performance and long life. Extra time spent during installation will pay off in both short and long term performance and reliability. This Mikuni HSR carburetor kit is designed to be a bolt-on application, and as such, is set-up and jetted properly for most applications. However, since Harley-Davidson motors are often highly modified, alternate tuning settings may be required. The Mikuni Tuning Manual helps make jetting alterations and adjustments an easy matter. NOTE: Carburetor Kits not designated as C.A.R.B. exempt, are not legal for motor vehicles operated on public highways in the state of California, or in any other states and countries where similar laws apply. WARNING NOTE: NOTE: WARNING CAUTION NOTE: NOTE: TK-2 6. Install the new assembly into the Mikuni carburetor. Be careful to only gently tighten the plastic nut. 7. Loosen the knurled plastic friction nut behind the choke knob and check for free-play (see Figure 2). Figure 1: Harley nut with Mikuni spring & plunger Figure 2: Choke cable adjustments Mikuni Cable (Evo Kits: 42-8, 45-2 & 45-3) : 1. Remove nut, spring and plunger from the Mikuni. 2. Install the nut, spring and plunger onto the cable. 3. Install the assembly into the Mikuni HSR carburetor. Be careful to only gently tighten the plastic nut. 4. Check for free-play. Adjust the cable as necessary. An optional choke cable mounting bracket is included in the Evo kits for custom installations. Carburetor Installation: 1. Insert the carb fully into the rubber flange, align with engine and tighten the clamp. 2. Slip the fuel hose onto the carburetor’s fuel fitting and secure with the enclosed hose clamp. NOTE: Some Twin Cam installations may require removal of a small amount of fin material from the cylinders to clear the float bowl. Throttle Cables The HSR carburetor uses stock 1990 and later Harley- Davidson cables. However, if your Harley is fitted with some other carburetor, you may need to purchase a set of cables. See your dealer for the correct cable set. 1. Route the throttle cables with large radius curves and so they do not interfere with other components. 2. Screw the cable adjusters together to make them as short as possible. 3. Connect the “close” cable first (see Figure 3). 4. Install the “open” cable next (see Figure 3). 5. Adjust the opening cable until the slide can be opened fully. Snug the adjuster lock nut. 6. Turn the handlebar to the right and adjust the throttle free-play with the closing cable adjuster to approximately 1/8″ (see Figure 4)

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Adjusting the Pekar K68 for Dnepr or Ural

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 11-11-2010

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1. Make sure the ignition timing is correct 2. Adjust the valves as necessary to ensure proper operation 3. Run the engine to warm it up a bit 4. Adjust the float setting. To do this, remove the carburetors (leave the throttle cables attached), remove the bowl and turn the carburetor upside down (fuel will spill). The float should look like this: Adjust as necessary by bending the float support (#37 in Figure 1). Reinstall Installation and idle adjustment 1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns. * Starting using the K68′s (cold weather) 1. Verify fuel flow. Apply choke (pull 52 in Fig1). 2. Using the ticklers (13) allow fuel to enter the bowl until fuel drains from (14) 3. With the ignition off, kick 1 or 2 times 4. Turn ignition on, and as soon as engine is warmed up (maybe sooner) push choke mechanisms to open choke Idle Adjustment (engine running and warm) 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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S&S Connecting Rods Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (S&S) by admin on 29-10-2010

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1. Female rod crankpin end to mainshaft nuts – .030″ minimum clearance recommended. A. Install sprocket shaft and crankpin in driveside flywheel. Snug nuts only. Do not torque to final specs. B. Slide connecting rods and bearings over crankpin. C. Rotate rods on crankpin, and observe clearance between rod and sprocket shaft nut. D. If additional clearance is needed, remove material from sprocket shaft nut. Do not remove material from connecting rod. E. Repeat procedure for camside flywheel and pinion shaft. 2. Female rod crankpin end to inner flywheel rim – .060″ clearance recommended. A. While checking female rod to mainshaft clearance, observe clearance between crankpin end of female rod and rim of both flywheels. B. If additional clearance is required, remove material from flywheel at point of contact. Do not remove material from connecting rod. 3. Wristpin end of both female and male rods to flywheel edge -.060″ minimum clearance recommended. A. While checking female rod to mainshaft clearance, observe clearance between wristpin end of both rods and rim of both flywheels. B. If additional clearance is required, remove material from flywheel at point of contact. Do not remove material from connecting rod. 4. Wristpin end to crankcase and cylinder – .060″ is recommended in these areas. A. With the camside flywheel and rods mocked up, install the assembly in the right crankcase half with pistons (less rings) and cylinders in place. B. Rotate flywheel through one full revolution and check for rod to crankcase and cylinder spigot contact on both the front and rear of each cylinder. C. File or grind crankcase or cylinder spigot as needed to achieve .060″ clearance. Do not remove morematerial than needed. D. Repeat for left crankcase half. NOTE: Whenever clearancing is performed in any of these areas, do not remove any material from the connecting rods as clearancing on the rods may unnecessarily weaken them. Make adjustments to the point of contact on the mainshaft nut, flywheel rim, crankcase, cylinder spigot, etc. Connecting rods weakened by clearancing may fail causing serious engine damage.

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1997-1998 EFI Harley Davidson 1340 EVO Power Commander Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 16-03-2012

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1 Remove the seat. 2 Remove saddlebags if installed. 3 Remove left and right side covers. 4 Remove the battery (negative terminal first). 5 Loosen the two 7/16 nuts that retain the ECU (Fig. A) 6 From the left side (underneath the left side cover area) feed the PC III connectors in front of battery tray, and out the right side (in front of the ECU bracket)(Fig. B). 7 Attach PC II module to battery box. First, clean the PCIII and battery box with the supplied alcohol wipe. Using the supplied velcro attach PCIII to the battery box. Also secure the unit with the included zip ties. If your bike has cruise control, attach the unit to the face of the cruise control module (Fig. C). 8 Disconnect the large connector from the ECU. Remove the rubber dust shield. 9 Install the dust shield onto the matching connector on the PCIII. Zip tie the rubber dust shield to the PCIII connector with zip tie provided. 10 Plug the PCIII connector into the stock ECU. 11 Plug stock connector into the remaining connector from the PCIII (Fig. D). 12 Tighten the two 7/16 nuts that retain the ECU. 13 Route the connectors alongside the ECU and install the right side cover. 14 Replace the battery, the left side cover and the seat. 8 5 Power Commander Connnector Stock Connnector Fig.D Fig.E Adjust Idle Speed here Fig.F Adjusting Your Power Commander Your Power Commander has been programmed with a base map for your application. You can adjust the base map or install an alternate map using your Computer. Please refer to the supplied CD-Rom for more information. You can also adjust your Power Commander using the face plate buttons as described below. 1. With the ignition off, hold down all three buttons on the Power Commander unit. 2. While still holding down the buttons, turn the ignition on. 3. Release buttons

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HARLEY-DAVIDSON 5 Speed Transmissions 1984 – 1999 EVO / 5 Speed & 1999 – 2006 Twin Cam Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 26-11-2010

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Remove Original Parts From Vehicle. 2.1 Obtain a small tube of Loctite® #262 (red) for use later. 2.2 Drain the transmission oil. 2.3 Remove the clutch adjustment cover (left side). 2.4 Remove rear exhaust header pipe (cross over exhaust pipe). 2.5 Remove the muffler support bracket. 2.6 Remove the clutch release cover (right side). 2.7 Remove clutch push rod and oil slinger. To be disassembled and modified later. 2.8 Remove the two nuts from the main (rear) and counter (front) transmission shafts. 2.9 Remove the transmission bearing housing (puller available from Champion Sidecars). To be replaced with new reverse gear transmission bearing housing (Trap Door). 2.10 Cover the exposed gears in the transmission with a cloth in preparation to cut the shifter fork shaft. 3 Install New Main and Countershaft Gears NOTE: Gears and Tapered Split Rings are factory matched sets. Do not mix!. 3.1 Locate the shifter fork rod, mark fork rod flush at transmission case and pull out 1/4″. Figure 1 3.2 Cut the shaft at the mark and push it back in. The shaft end MUST NOT stick out of the transmission case. If the shaft is in deeper, fill the hole with silicone to prevent the shaft from moving in and out. NOTE: Shifter fork is made of non-tempered metal and may be cut with a hacksaw or Dremel® cutting tool. 3.3 Important: Remove stock spacers from main and counter shafts. Spray with silicon remover (Brake-Clean) then, using supplied cleaning pad, clean shafts, new counter and main shaft gears and tapered lock rings (inside and outside) Figure 1 3.4 With motorcycle in neutral, pull both the shafts out and simultaneously push the OEM outermost gears in until seated completely to expose the shoulders of both shafts. The countershaft shoulder should be flush with the gear face. For the main shaft the gear would “hang over” the shoulder a small bit. Figure 2 3.5 Apply supplied Champion Super-Lock retaining compound to the inside and outside surfaces of the large gear tapered split ring, to the inside of the new countershaft gear (large gear) and to the transmission countershaft (the forward most shaft). 3.6 Install new countershaft gear to the transmission countershaft. Insert tapered split ring (tapered end first) into the countershaft gear. Install ring seat tool and spring to counter shaft and new countershaft gear. Torque ring seat tool to 40 ft-lb’s. Figures 3 and 4

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Harley Davidson 1990 and later HSR Choke Cable Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-02-2012

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The majority of HSR42/45 installations use the Harley cable. Installation is simple when the installation instructions are followed, step by step. Those steps are: • Remove the stock Harley choke cable assembly. • Remove the spring and plunger from the stock cable. • Remove the Mikuni “Starter Nut” from the HSR. • Remove the Mikuni spring and plunger from the HSR. • Install the Mikuni spring and plunger on the Harley choke cable. • Install the Harley choke cable with the fitted Mikuni spring and plunger into the HSR carburetor. • DO NOT use the Mikuni Starter Nut; discard it. • DO NOT use the Harley spring or plunger; discard them. Note: If you do not have installation instructions, you may download them from the www.mikuni.com website in the “manuals” section. If the Mikuni Starter Nut is fitted to the Harley cable, the choke plunger is held off its seat and the choke is open all the time. If the Harley spring and plunger are used, the plunger does not seal and the choke is open all the time. The result, in both cases, is very poor fuel mileage (30 mpg or less). Another possible cause of poor mileage, rough idle and fouled spark plugs is incorrect cable routing. The stock Harley choke cable is very stiff and may not be fully seated in the metal elbow at the carburetor end of its run. This condition is easily corrected. On occasion, one of these errors may have been made by someone else at another location. The unfortunate mechanic who inherits the task of correcting the rich condition, poor idle and poor fuel mileage may have no clue as to the mismatch of parts. For this reason, we include the photos and text to help you discover if your installation is correct.

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Harley Davidson Installing The Ride Time Ultra Progressive Tour Pak LED Tail Lights

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Remove the light bulbs from the tail light housing by depressing the tab on the bulb socket assembly and turning counter clockwise. Remove the bulb from the bulb socket. 2. Remove the lenses from the warp-around light fixture. These lens are held in place by a non-hardening black sealant. In addition, there are three plastic alignment tabs on the lens body that clip into the lens frame. To remove the lens, insert the supplied push Stick through the hole in the back of the light bulb housing and gently but firmly push the lens outward. This action places a stress on the alignment tabs. 3 . Using a flat blade screw driver, pry the lens away from the frame at the top, side, and bottom to release the lens alignment tabs. Go back to step 2, and use the plastic tube to push the lens outward. It may be necessary to repeat the prying process and pushing process several times to remove the lens. Note: Some users have found it useful to heat the lens area with a hair dryer to soften the adhesive. Included in this kit are: Left and Right LED modules, 1 RTQC Quick Connect Accessory Cable , 2 RTV application sticks, 1 push stick, Approximately 3 inches of shrink tube, and 1 copy of instructions. Required for installation, but not included are: A tube of Permatex RTV (available at Wal-Mart), 1/8 inch drill bit, a drill, small flat blade screwdriver, other hand tools. Window/ body sealer if required to reseat lenses can be obtained at your local glass shop. Tour Pak, Harley Davidson, Electraglide, Raod King, and Ultraglide are registered trade marks of Harley David- son. Harley Davidson does not make or endorse the use of these lights. 4. When the lens begins to emerge from the frame, grasp it at the top and bottom and pull the lens from the housing using a up and down motion. Set the lens aside . Avoid having the sealant contact other surfaces. In most cases, the lens can be reinstalled without adding additional sealant . Note: Do not use RTV to reset the lens. If sealant is needed obtain a non-hardening body/windshield sealant from your local glass shop. 6. When you are comfortable with the location of the circuit board, drill a 1/8 inch hole in the back of the light housing. This hole will be used to bring the turn signal wire from the LED module into the Tour Pak. 7. Using the supplied stick, spread a thin layer of Permatex clear RTV silicone seal along the area where the circuit board will be located. Apply a similar layer to the top of the light housing. Route the turn signal wire through the 1/8″ hole and position the circuit board in the housing. Allow the RTV to cure. 5. Test fit the LED light board in the light housing.

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