Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 11-02-2011
INSTALLATION Prepare the Motorcycle 1. Follow the Service Manual instructions to remove the seat. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 2. Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable from the battery. 3. Place motorcycle on a lift and secure the front wheel. 4. Use an overhead crane or hoist attached to the frame to lift the rear of the motorcycle to allow the rear fork to pivot through its range of travel. 5. Place a screw jack under the rear wheel to support and adjust the rear fork during shock removal, installation and ride height adjustment. Be sure rear wheel is supported when removing rear shocks. If wheel is not supported rear fork can drop down, which could result in death or serious injury. (00481b) Removal 1. See Figure 1. Remove the bolt and washer (1) that fasten each of the shock absorbers (2) to the rear fork. NOTE Snap-on Tool Co. adapter, Part Number SRES 24, is necessary to gain access to the shock absorber bolts. 2. Remove the flanged locknut (6) and cup washer with grommet (5) fastening the shock absorber to the frame bracket (4) and remove the shock absorber. 3. Remove, inspect and, if necessary, replace the rubber grommets, the cup washers (5), and the bushing (3). 4. Repeat for the other shock absorber. Disassemble the Shock 1. Thoroughly clean the rear fork end of the shock, especially near the shock canister seal. 2. Support the rear fork end of the shock absorber and shock canister on the table of a press. 3. Press on the shaft to compress the spring in the canister until the keeper plate drops down away from the retaining ring.
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 13-03-2011
See Figure 3 and Table 1. INSTALLATION Shock Absorbers Perform this installation when the engine is cool. Working on or near the exhaust system when the engine is hot could result in severe burns. (00311a) Installation of any accessory suspension components can affect cornering clearance. This could distract the rider, causing loss of control and death or serious injury. (00431b) NOTES This procedure requires that both shocks be removed prior to installing the new shock absorbers. You need to place the motorcycle on a center stand with the rear wheel raised off of the ground. The jiffy stand should be able to move through its full range of travel. The exhaust system may interfere when removing and installing the lower right shock mounting hardware. If necessary, see Service Manual and remove the rear exhaust pipe. 2 4 5 7 1 6 3 is05206 1. Lower screw 2. Upper screw 3. Lower washer 4. Upper washer 5. Cover 6. Nut 7. Shock absorber Figure 1. Remove / Install Shock Absorber 1. Block the motorcycle under the frame so that the motorcycle is securely resting upright, the jiffystand may be moved through its full range of travel, and rear wheel is just off the ground. 2. Remove the lower shock mounting screw (1), washer (3) and nut (6) from the shock absorber (7). Save the hardware for reuse. 3. Remove the upper bolt (2), washer (4) and cover (5) and remove the shock absorber. Save the hardware for reuse. 4. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 for opposite side and save the hardware. 5. Apply 2-3 drops of LOCTITE 243® (blue) on the threads of the lower mounting bolt, then install bolt, lower washer and nut to the shock. 6. Apply 2-3 drops of LOCTITE 243® (blue) on the threads of the upper mounting bolt, then install the shock cover, upper mounting bolt and washer to the shock. Verify the cutout in shock cover locates properly
Filed Under (Atk) by admin on 01-11-2010
PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT— On some Works shocks a threaded preload is standard. This allows the adjustment of the ride height of the motorcycle. The preload is changed by turning a threaded nut down towards the spring (higher ride height) or up away from the spring (lower ride height). The nut is a right-hand thread. CHECKING RIDE HEIGHT— 1. With the bike unloaded on the side stand and the shock fully extended, have an assistant measure from a point at the axle (center point) to a point on the frame, fender or bodywork directly above it. Record this measurement. 2. With the bike off the stand and the rider in the seat, bounce on the suspension and let the bike settle. Have the assistant measure from the same two points. Subtract the second measurement from the first. HM CRX50 / BAJA & ATK 50MX INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT TIPS Continued on next page. #HM50 – 5/27/99 #HM50 – 5/27/99 To Front Valve Mounting channel Spacer Flange Shock eye Top View of Shock Mount Fig. 1 Top view of upper shock mount. The flange on the shock bushing must face toward the spacer. The valve should point toward the front of the bike Fig. 1 Top view of upper shock mount. The flange on the shock bushing must face toward the spacer. The valve should point toward the front of the bike 3. The amount of settle, or “sag” is a function of the wheel travel. It should only be between 1/4 and 1/3 of the total travel. 4. If the difference is less than the minimum, reduce the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. 5. If the difference is more than the maximum, increase the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. Note: If the ride height is too low, the shock will bottom unnecessarily, resulting in a harsh ride. If the ride height is too high, the shock will “top out” too easily when rebounding from a bump or under hard deceleration. NITROGEN PRESSURES IN EMULSION SHOCKS CAUTION: The pressure in these shocks cannot successfully be checked. Concerns with the gauge volume and the gas volume in the shock body create a situation where you cannot accurately determine what pressure was in the shock. In addition when the pressure is lowered (i.e. checking the pressure) the gas and some of the shock oil escapes into the gauge. It is possible to lose a large percentage of the shock oil by depressing the core of a charged shock to the atmosphere. Please note that in order to check the pressure, some of the gas must escape and fill the gauge assembly. The volume of the gas pocket is about half the size of your thumb, so a very small volume change results in a large pressure drop. Because the gauges’ volumes vary, it is not possible to deduce the actual pressure in the shock prior to attaching the gauge. Therefore it is imperative that any attempt to check pressure be accompanied by the capability of refilling the shock. In other words: If you don’t have a nitrogen source handy, don’t check the pressure! PRESSURIZING EMULSION SHOCKS The pressure setting for Works gas shocks is 250 p.s.i. of dry nitrogen. To pressurize a shock with some residual pressure in it, bring the gauge manifold up to 250 p.s.i. and depress the core with the T-handle. This will either equalize the pressure or refill the shock without transferring oil from the shock into the gauge assembly. The best gauges for this purpose screw on to the valve and incorporate a T-handled core depressor to isolate the shock from the gauge. This allows a leak-free separation once the desired pressure is reached. For simplified operation, an extra valve is provided for the filling apparatus, allowing pressure adjustment with the gauge in place. Works offers a suitable gauge and filling manifold. Most motorcycle shops that deal with dirt bikes can pressurize the shock
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 04-12-2010
1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the ¼ – 20 Phillips head screw and Seat. 6. Disconnect negative Battery Terminal. 7. Remove two ¼ – 20 flanged hex nuts from the Stud Plate. Save the Passenger Handrail and two nuts. 8. Remove the Saddle Bags. 9. Remove the Right and Left Side Covers. 10. Remove Inner Tour Pak Molded Liner. 11. Disconnect the Tour Pak wiring. 12. Remove five ¼ – 20 HHCS, ¼ – 20 nyloc nuts, and Aluminum Spacers. 13. Remove Tour Pak from Top Support Tube. 14. Loosen Muffler Clamp on both Mufflers and remove 2 5/16 – 18 HHCS per Muffler. Remove and discard both Mufflers. Save Muffler Clamps. 15. Remove and discard Muffler Support Plates. 16. Remove both ¼ – 20 HHCS and Front Saddle Bag Brackets. 17. Remove the twelve 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS six 5/16 – 18 nuts, and the Left and Right Saddle Bag Guards. 18. Remove the Air Line Junction from the Rear Fender. 19. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness and remove from T-stud Clip.
6 20. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Phillips head screws. Remove the Left and Right Frame Covers. 21. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove and save the Top Tour Pak Support Tube Top. 22. Remove four 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove the Left and Right Rear Saddle Bag Guard Support Bracket. 23. Remove four 5/16 – 18 HHCS. Remove and save the Tour Pak Support Tube Bottom. 24. Remove and discard the Air Valve Assembly Bracket. 25. Remove four ½ – 13 HHCS and washers. Remove and discard both Rear Air Shock Absorbers. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. 26. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 27. Cut and remove Cable ties and un-clamp Wire Harness Loops from the Rear Brake Line along its length, including Clamps on Swing Arm. 28. Remove the 10 – 24 flanged HHCS and Rear Brake Hose Clamp from the Right Rear Fork Bracket. 29. Remove ¼ – 20 SHCS from Rear Stop Lamp Switch Bracket. 30. Remove and discard Banjo Bolt and Crush Washers on Rear Brake Caliper. 31. Remove the Spring Clip and nut from the Rear Axle. 32. Remove Rear Axle and Rear Wheel Spacers. 33. Push Rear Wheel Assembly forward and slip Rear Belt off of the Rear Sprocket. 34. Remove Rear Brake Caliper. 35. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly rearward. Remove one 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS from inside the Rear Fender well. 36. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly forward. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove Rear Fender. 37. Remove and save the two Retaining Washers from the Stud Plate. Remove and save the Stud Plate
Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-02-2011
Specifications Overall Width: 57.75″ Overall Length: 108″ Overall Length w/EZ-Steer 109.5 Wheel Base: 71″ Extended 4.5″ At Rear Axel Wheel Base w/EZ Steer 72.5″ Load Capacity: 500 Lb Tire Size: 205 / 70 / R15 Wheel Size (15″) Offset +35 mm 15x7JJ 4×4.5 Tire Pressure 20 PSI Suspension: “Zero-Flex” Internal Swing Arm utilizing 3 shocks, OEM shock absorber plus 2 coil over shock absorbers. Rear Differential: Champion Lightweight rear axle / differential assembly. Gear Ratio 2.93:1 gear ratio Brakes: Original front plus 2 high performance disc brakes at rear. Storage Capacity: 6.75 cubic feet. 3 full-face helmets and additional storage. Trike Conversion Installation Kit Honda Goldwing GL1800 Champion Trikes Page 7 of 28 Revision 10 4 Removal of Original Parts Most tasks necessary in this guide can be accomplished with the vehicle on its center stand. Secure the center stand to one of the forward crash bars with a ratchet strap to keep vehicle from rolling forward and off the center stand. Be sure that the vehicle is laterally stable as well. Remove the following from the vehicle. See OEM manual for detailed instructions. Items to be retained for return of deposit or re-installation after modification shall be duly noted. • Seat (to be re-installed without modification) • Left and right side covers (to be re-installed without modification) • Battery and battery box (to be re-installed without modification) • Left and right saddle bags • Remove taillight and locking assemblies from saddlebags (to be returned for refund of deposit) • Trunk (to be re-installed without modification) • Left and right passenger foot rests (to be re-installed without modification) • Left and right foot rest under covers (to be modified and re-installed) • Left and right rear crash bars • Saddle bag trunk stay (to be modified and re-installed) • Left and right mufflers (Mufflers only, do not remove decorative covers) • Rear wheel • Left and right pivot bolt covers (to be re-installed without modification) • Reverse resistor (to be relocated) • Swing Arm – Note : Carry out brake system modifications (Section 5) prior to removing Swing Arm. • Note : Upper bolt of mono shock can be removed without removing the fuel tank. • Note : Do not remove actuator hose from actuator pump or shock absorber. Dismounting shock actuator pump will allow more movement of shock absorber when removing swing arm.Trike Conversion Installation Kit Honda Goldwing GL1800 Champion Trikes Page 8 of 28 Revision 10 5 Brake System Modification Note : Modification to the vehicle brake system should be carried out prior to removal of the swing arm. From the manufacturer, your Honda Gold Wing brake system utilizes both front and rear brakes when the foot brake is applied. In order to insure safe operation of your Gold Wing when converted to a Champion Sidecars Trike, the brake system must be modified to isolate the front and rear brake systems from each other. Once modification is complete, four of the six pistons in the front calipers operate only when the hand brake lever is applied. The rear brakes operate only when the foot brake pedal is applied. The diagrams below outline the difference between the GL1800 OEM brake system and the system as modified by the Champion Sidecars Trike Conversion Kit.