how to adjust shocks on harley iron 883

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Harley Davidson Softails Shocks Installation download

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-02-2012

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Progressive Suspension shocks for your Softail are designed as a direct bolt on replacement for your stockers. Although they are very similar in appearance, they have vastly improved damping and spring rates. Our shocks do not use the remote reservoir system used on earlier model Softail models. 1. Place motorcycle securely on stand or blocks so the rear wheel is slightly off the ground. 2. Per instructions in a authorized shop manual, remove your old shocks. Note location of the mounting hardware. 3. Install the Progressive Suspension shocks using the stock mounting bolts and washers. 4. Tighten all shock mounting bolts to the proper torque specifications (see shop manual for specs) 5. Progressive Suspension shocks have adjustable pre-load to compensate for varying weights. The included wrench or a Harley Davidson pre-load adjustment wrench is necessary to adjust the pre-load setting. Replacement Progressive Suspension, Inc. wrenches are available as Part # SW-784 from most Dealers and Accessory Stores and the Harley Davidson wrench is available as part #94455-89 from any Harley Davidson Dealer. Spring preload is set by us to the lightest setting. To increase preload for heavier riders/loads/passengers, loosen locknut with the inside portion of the supplied wrench or a 1 1/ 16 ” wrench and back it off several turns. Use the supplied wrench or a Harley adjustment wrench to turn the adjustment nut counterclockwise to the desired preload setting. Then tighten the 11/ 16 ” lock nut. Both shocks must be adjusted to the same, equal setting

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Ultima Billet Rear Shocks Installation Instruction Sheet

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Unloading the rear suspension Use a jack under a flat part of the motorcycle and lift until the rear tire is barely resting on the surface. This ensures that the shocks are unloaded. They are now ready for removal. Remove the old shocks Refer to the service manual specific to your motorcycle for this process. Unbolt the old shocks. Save the necessary hardware if you have not purchased new hardware. Installation Shocks should be installed with the preload adjuster on top (see Preload Adjustment). With the new shocks in hand; please go over the hardware configuration diagram (Figure 3) to decide which configuration best fits your application. Spacers are included to provide clearance between the shocks and your motorcycle (Figure 4). Typically start on which ever side the final drive is located. This side normally causes the clearance issues. Each eye and each side should be configured the same way. Make sure to use the proper hardware so that the shock- bushings fit the shock-bolts as snugly as possible. Shocks come with a 1/2″ ID bushing installed. This is needed for all applications. An optional bushing is included and should be used in addition when 3/8″ bolts are used instead of the larger 1/2″bolts. Unless new hardware was purchased, you will use the stock bolts from your old shocks to install the new shocks. Use Red Locktite (or equivalent) and use a torque wrench to tighten as follows: Models that use 1/2″ bolts: 65ft-lbs Models that use 3/8″ bolts: 30ft-lbs (Figures 1 & 2) Be sure to check clearance between the shock and the belt-guard. If there is any contact you will need to alter your spacer arrangement to accommodate this. Check tire to fender clearance as well. This clearance will be reduced when lowering shocks are used. Preload Adjustment Your new Ultima Billet Shocks are preload adjustable. Adjustment should be done once the shocks are installed. To adjust use a strap wrench and turn the top part of the shock (Figure 6) clock-wise to tighten or provide more preload (this stiffens the suspension), or counter-clockwise to loosen or subtract preload (this softens the suspension). Hand adjustments may be sufficient on models with smaller spring rates while the strap wrench will be required on the high spring rate shocks. You will see notches (Figure 6) that appear on the shock as the shock is preloaded. These should help you obtain the same preload for both sides of the motorcycle. Both shocks should be adjusted to the same level of preload.

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HARLEY-DAVIDSON SOFTAIL MODELS STEALTH AIR SHOCK MOUNTING

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 16-12-2010

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INSTALLATION 1. Remove the seat, inner fender, and ignition coil cover. Removing the rear wheel assembly is recommended for ease of installation, but not absolutely necessary. Remove the nut cup and outer grommet on each of the Works shocks. If you intend to leave the ride height at stock height for road riding, position the inner nut cup SHOC KS SHOC KS WORKS PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS, INC. 21045 Osborne St., Canoga Park, CA 91304 818.701.1010 fax 818.701.9043 STEALTH AIR SHOCK MOUNTING FOR HARLEY-DAVIDSON SOFTAIL MODELS 2000-ON #HDAIR-00 – 02/15/2006 WARNING! THESE SHOCKS MUST ONLY BE USED WITH STOCK SWINGARMS AND ON STOCK FRAMES WITH THE STOCK BOTTOMING BUMPERS ON THE CHASSIS TO LIMIT THE TRAVEL OF THE SHOCKS. AFTERMARKET SWINGARMS, OR MODIFIED SWINGARMS THAT DO NOT HAVE THE UPPER BRACE THAT ACTS AGAINST THE BOTTOMING BUMPERS CANNOT BE USED WITH THESE SHOCKS. INCREASING THE TRAVEL BY ELIMINATING THE BUMP STOPS OR A NON-STANDARD SWINGARM DESIGN WILL ALLOW THE TIRE TO MAKE CONTACT WITH THE FENDER OR OTHER CHASSIS COMPONENTS, AND CAN DAMAGE THE SHOCKS. 19. Lock Washers 20. Long Bolts (2) 21. Short Bolts (2) 13. Din Plug Screw 14. Din Plug Gasket 15. Cap 16. Eye Spacers (4) 17. Cotter Pins (2) 18. Switch Bracket 7. Compressor Bracket 8. Harness 9. Fuse Block 10. Din Connector 11. Solenoid 12. Hose 1. Damper Shock 2. Air Spring Shock 3. Nut Cup 4. Grommet 5. Hose 6. Compressor 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 15 16 17 14 18 19 20 21 Fig. 1–Nomenclature on the damper shock up against the ring nut. The shocks are now ready to install. 2. Place the motorcycle on a suitable frame stand allowing unrestricted access to the shocks. 3. Place a small screw jack under the swing arm to support the weight as well as allow you to position the swing arm correctly to line up the shock mounting bolts. Remove stock shocks. 4. Install the left side (damping) shock with the stock mounting bolt. Make sure that the bolt threads and threaded portions of the frame are free of oil and grease. Grease the shoulders of the bolts and use thread lock compounds on the threads. Discard the stock shock washers on both shocks. Do not use any washers- -including the stock washers on these bolts. Use only the spacers included. The 3/16-inch wide spacers are used on each side of the shock eye. Do not “double-up” the spacers together on either side of the shock eye, as this will cause misalignment of the shocks which can lead to premature wear or damage to the shocks. 5. Put the supplied spacers on each side of the eye. The shoulder of the bolt must protrude a small amount through the shock eyes in order to allow the shock to pivot freely. This is extremely important. With the shocks fully tightened, the spacers should be free to rotate with finger pressure. If the washer is used or a non-stock bolt is used, the bolts will work loose or break because the shocks are in a bind.

2000 & later Harley Davidson Softails Drag Specialties Shocks Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-03-2012

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1. Place motorcycle securely on stand or blocks so the rear wheel is slightly off the ground. 2. Per instructions in a authorized shop manual, remove your old shocks. Note location of the mounting hard- ware. 3. Before reinstalling a Drag Specialties adjustable ride height shock, spin the non-flanged nut all the way onto the stud mount, followed by a bushing-cup, bushing, and sleeve. Then install shocks as you would a stock unit, following an authorized shop manual. With the non-flanged nut spun all the way onto the stud, the stock ride height is achieved. Once you have installed the other bushing, bushing-cup, and flanged nut you can now install the safety E-clip. This E-clip is snapped into the groove near the end of the stud mount where the threads stop. This is to serve as a reference point ONLY – when the flanged-nut reaches it you have lowered your ride height the maximum 2 inches. DO NOT torque the flange-nut against the E- clip (see figure 1). 4. Tighten all shock mounting bolts to the proper torque specifications (see shop manual for specs). 5. Drag Specialties shocks have adjustable pre-load to compensate for varying weights. A Harley Davidson pre-load adjustment wrench is necessary to adjust the pre-load setting. Progressive Suspension, Inc. wrenches are available as Part # SW-784 from most Dealers and Accessory Stores and the Harley Davidson wrench is available as part #94455-89 from any Harley Davidson Dealer. Spring preload is set by us to the lightest setting. To increase preload for heavier riders/loads/passengers, loosen locknut with the inside portion of the supplied wrench or a 1 1/ 16 ” wrench and back it off several turns. Use the supplied wrench or a Harley

Adjusting the Pekar K68 for Dnepr or Ural

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 11-11-2010

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1. Make sure the ignition timing is correct 2. Adjust the valves as necessary to ensure proper operation 3. Run the engine to warm it up a bit 4. Adjust the float setting. To do this, remove the carburetors (leave the throttle cables attached), remove the bowl and turn the carburetor upside down (fuel will spill). The float should look like this: Adjust as necessary by bending the float support (#37 in Figure 1). Reinstall Installation and idle adjustment 1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns. * Starting using the K68′s (cold weather) 1. Verify fuel flow. Apply choke (pull 52 in Fig1). 2. Using the ticklers (13) allow fuel to enter the bowl until fuel drains from (14) 3. With the ignition off, kick 1 or 2 times 4. Turn ignition on, and as soon as engine is warmed up (maybe sooner) push choke mechanisms to open choke Idle Adjustment (engine running and warm) 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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Harley Davidson 1990 and later HSR Choke Cable Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-02-2012

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The majority of HSR42/45 installations use the Harley cable. Installation is simple when the installation instructions are followed, step by step. Those steps are: • Remove the stock Harley choke cable assembly. • Remove the spring and plunger from the stock cable. • Remove the Mikuni “Starter Nut” from the HSR. • Remove the Mikuni spring and plunger from the HSR. • Install the Mikuni spring and plunger on the Harley choke cable. • Install the Harley choke cable with the fitted Mikuni spring and plunger into the HSR carburetor. • DO NOT use the Mikuni Starter Nut; discard it. • DO NOT use the Harley spring or plunger; discard them. Note: If you do not have installation instructions, you may download them from the www.mikuni.com website in the “manuals” section. If the Mikuni Starter Nut is fitted to the Harley cable, the choke plunger is held off its seat and the choke is open all the time. If the Harley spring and plunger are used, the plunger does not seal and the choke is open all the time. The result, in both cases, is very poor fuel mileage (30 mpg or less). Another possible cause of poor mileage, rough idle and fouled spark plugs is incorrect cable routing. The stock Harley choke cable is very stiff and may not be fully seated in the metal elbow at the carburetor end of its run. This condition is easily corrected. On occasion, one of these errors may have been made by someone else at another location. The unfortunate mechanic who inherits the task of correcting the rich condition, poor idle and poor fuel mileage may have no clue as to the mismatch of parts. For this reason, we include the photos and text to help you discover if your installation is correct.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON DUAL DISC FRONT BRAKE KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-03-2011

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This kit is designed for installation on the following models which have original equipment 39mm front fork tubes (including chromed tubes) and 19-in. cast-aluminum front wheels: • 2000 – 2003 XLH 883, XLH 883 Hugger and XLH 1200 • 2000 – 2003 FXD (Super Glide) This kit can also be installed on the above XLH and FXD models which have original equipment 39mm front fork tubes and 19-in. laced front wheels only after one of the following procedures is performed: • The original single-flange hub of the 19-in laced front wheel is replaced with a new double-flange hub (H-D Part No. 43629-00), (sold separately) which will accept the second brake disc. OR • The original 19-in. laced front wheel assembly, which has a single-flange hub, is replaced with a new 19-in. laced front wheel assembly (H-D Part No. 43579-00), (sold separately) which has a double-flange hub designed to accept the second brake disc. See the Service Parts Illustration for a list of the contents included in this kit. This kit does not include the front brake line required for a dual disc system; the brake line must be purchased separately as follows: • For XLH 883 motorcycle equipped with low-rise (flat) handlebars, order dual disc brake line H-D Part No. 45148-96. • For XLH 883 Hugger, XLH 1200, and FXD Super Glide models with “buckhorn” (pull-back) handlebars, order dual disc brake line H-D Part No. 45111-96. The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley-Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (00333a) Brakes are a critical safety component. Contact a Harley- Davidson dealer for brake repair or replacement. Improperly serviced brakes can adversely affect brake performance, which could result in death or serious injury. (00054a) Removal and Disassembly – Front Brake System NOTE A Service Manual for your motorcycle is available at your Harley-Davidson Dealer. 1. Block motorcycle underneath frame so that front wheel is raised off the ground slightly. 2. Remove original front brake caliper from left side of front fork according to appropriate Service Manual procedures. Let caliper hang loose on brake line. Save all components and fasteners for reinstallation. NOTE Do not operate the front brake lever with the front caliper removed because the piston may be forced from the caliper. Reseating the piston requires disassembly of the caliper . 3. Remove socket head screw which secures a clamp (retains front brake line) to underside of front fork lower bracket (lower triple clamp). Discard clamp and screw. 4. Remove screw, lockwasher, and clamp which secure front brake line to right rear side of front fork upper bracket (upper triple clamp). Save all components for reinstallation. 5. Remove right mirror and, if applicable, right turn signal lamp assembly from original front brake master cylinder casting. Save all components and fasteners for reinstalla- tion.

440 Series Shocks Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 14-12-2010

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Follow instructions in an authorized shop manual or take the motorcycle toacompetent dealer. The motorcycle must be on thecenterstand (if equipped) or securely blocked to prevent it from tipping over when the shocks are removed. Failure to do so can cause serious damage and/or injury. The use of any lowering blocks is not recommended and will void the warranty. Make sure that proper bushings/sleeves are installed in the shocks. Improper bushings/sleeves can cause unsatisfactory and/or unsafe operation (seethe instructions packaged with the mounting hardware). 1. Place a quality jack or sufficient blocks under the motorcycle to securely lift the rear wheel slightly off the ground. 2. Using the correct shop manual, remove the old shocks and note location of the mounting hardware. If additional accessories are installed on your motorcycle, please refer to their mounting instruc- tionsforremoval to gain access to your shocks. 3. Before installing your new Progressive shocks you need to check the tire to fender clearance, (see Ain figure1) making sure that the tire does not come in contact with the fender. If the rear fender or tire has been changed to anything other than stock, a travel limiter maybe required. On some models with side bags or luggage, removal of the lower cover maybe required to eliminate any interference. Install shock assemblies onto the motorcycle (shaft end must be down!) and tighten bolts/nuts to proper torque. Check the clearances of the shock to frame (B) and shock to chain, chain guide, disc caliper and linkage (C) in figure 1. The lower cover can be removed for clearance if necessary. 4. Reinstall any accesso- riesremovedin accord with their mounting instructions. Make sure accessories do not in- terferewith shocks throughout full travel. If any accessories bolt to shock mounting points, a careful inspection must be made to insure that they do not bind the shocks in anyway (see figure 2)

KAWASAKI TERYX EFI Installation Instructions.

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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Basic Tuning Adjustments 1. The following instructions are for basic fuel tuning. Modes 1,2, & 3 are allowing adjustments to increase and decrease the amount of fuel the engine needs. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning only. DO NOT change modes 4 & 5 when doing basic tuning! 2. To help understand how these modes work, you can think of them as if you were working with a carburetor. 3. Remember each time you push the MODE button you will be advancing to the next mode. Push the MODE button once and you are now in mode 1, push the MODE button again and you are now in mode 2 and so on. You only need to be concerned with modes 1, 2 & 3 for basic tuning. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning ONLY. 4. If you need to go back to the settings that were pre programmed when you purchased the controller, just look at the picture in each mode, the colored square represents where the settings were when you purchased the controller. 5. Looking at the controller you will see eight lights with numbers under them, this is what you need to look at when changing settings. The #1 light on the controller represents the leanest setting. TRINITY RACING DOES NOT TAKE REPONSIBLITY FOR DAMAGES THAT MAY OCCUR DURING OPERATION OF YOUR VEHICLE UNDER IMPROPER JET SETTINGS. IT IS THE FINAL RESPONSIBLITY OF THE OWNER/RIDER TO ADJUST JETTING TO SPECIFIC RIDING CONDITIONS AND ELEVATION BEFORE RIDING. WARNING! 1.877.FAS TOYS 2.Remove both seats 6. Re-install engine cover and seats. 6. Mode 1 green light represents idle & cruise adjustment (i.e. pilot jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button once and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 7. Mode 2 yellow light represents an additional amount of fuel added during acceleration (i.e. needle position). To adjust this setting, push MODE twice and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 12 34 56 7 8 12 34 56 7 8 8. Mode 3 red light represents more fuel being added during full throttle (i.e. main jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button three times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 9. If you are confident about your tuning skills and feel you need to adjust other parameters, see Advanced Tuning. 12 34 56 7 8 Advanced Tuning Adjustments 1. Advance tuning has two modes in which to adjust. They are called mode 4 and mode 5. In basic tuning, you are changing the amount of fuel that the engine receives, but with advance tuning, you will be changing when the fuel will be available. In each mode you can adjust how soon the fuel delivery occurs. 2. Mode 4 yellow light and blue light represent when the fuel delivery is available during partial throttle acceleration. To adjust this setting, push the MODE button four times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. Only the yellow light will be changing.

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HSR Carburetor Total Kits Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Intake Manifold: 1. Install MAP sensor in Mikuni manifold (Twin Cam only). 2. Attach the Mikuni manifold to the engine. Align the manifold before tightening the bolts. The flange surface of the Mikuni manifold should be parallel with the front of the engine’s cam cover. Use a level or angle meter to check this. Tighten the manifold bolts. 3. Attach the rubber flange to the Mikuni manifold with the furnished 5/16″x3/4″ bolts and washers. Choke Cables: Mikuni & Harley-Davidson Route the cable with largest radius bends possible. Check the cable for free-play after installation. If there is no free-play, the engine may run rich and deliver poor performance or low fuel mileage. Harley Cable (Twin Cam Kits: 42-19, 45-4) : 1. Remove the Harley choke cable from the stock carb. 2. Remove the spring and plunger from the cable. 3. Remove the spring and plunger from the Mikuni. 5. Install the Mikuni spring and plunger onto the Harley choke cable. Change nothing else; be sure to use the Harley plastic nut, not the Mikuni nut (See Figure 1). Total Kit Installation Instructions The HSR series carburetors are precise yet durable instruments; however, like any other piece of fine equipment, they require correct installation and reasonable care to assure optimum performance and long life. Extra time spent during installation will pay off in both short and long term performance and reliability. This Mikuni HSR carburetor kit is designed to be a bolt-on application, and as such, is set-up and jetted properly for most applications. However, since Harley-Davidson motors are often highly modified, alternate tuning settings may be required. The Mikuni Tuning Manual helps make jetting alterations and adjustments an easy matter. NOTE: Carburetor Kits not designated as C.A.R.B. exempt, are not legal for motor vehicles operated on public highways in the state of California, or in any other states and countries where similar laws apply. WARNING NOTE: NOTE: WARNING CAUTION NOTE: NOTE: TK-2 6. Install the new assembly into the Mikuni carburetor. Be careful to only gently tighten the plastic nut. 7. Loosen the knurled plastic friction nut behind the choke knob and check for free-play (see Figure 2). Figure 1: Harley nut with Mikuni spring & plunger Figure 2: Choke cable adjustments Mikuni Cable (Evo Kits: 42-8, 45-2 & 45-3) : 1. Remove nut, spring and plunger from the Mikuni. 2. Install the nut, spring and plunger onto the cable. 3. Install the assembly into the Mikuni HSR carburetor. Be careful to only gently tighten the plastic nut. 4. Check for free-play. Adjust the cable as necessary. An optional choke cable mounting bracket is included in the Evo kits for custom installations. Carburetor Installation: 1. Insert the carb fully into the rubber flange, align with engine and tighten the clamp. 2. Slip the fuel hose onto the carburetor’s fuel fitting and secure with the enclosed hose clamp. NOTE: Some Twin Cam installations may require removal of a small amount of fin material from the cylinders to clear the float bowl. Throttle Cables The HSR carburetor uses stock 1990 and later Harley- Davidson cables. However, if your Harley is fitted with some other carburetor, you may need to purchase a set of cables. See your dealer for the correct cable set. 1. Route the throttle cables with large radius curves and so they do not interfere with other components. 2. Screw the cable adjusters together to make them as short as possible. 3. Connect the “close” cable first (see Figure 3). 4. Install the “open” cable next (see Figure 3). 5. Adjust the opening cable until the slide can be opened fully. Snug the adjuster lock nut. 6. Turn the handlebar to the right and adjust the throttle free-play with the closing cable adjuster to approximately 1/8″ (see Figure 4)

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