how to adjust the idle on a 1992 honda shadow 1100

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Honda Shadow A.C.E. v. Yamaha V-Star 1100 Middleweight Import Cruiser Shootout

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-11-2010

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You want a big cruiser but you don’t need a large 1500 cc behemoth that weighs close to half-a-ton fully loaded. You want something you can cruise down the boulevard on but you want to be able to handle a corner or two. You want classic styling but you insist on reliability as well. If these are your guidelines, then Honda and Yamaha might have what you’re looking for in the guise of the Honda Shadow American Classic Edition and Yamaha V-Star 1100. Shadow ACE 1100 The ACE and V-Star have a few things in common: Both sport requisite V-twin powerplants (75° for the V-Star and 45° for the ACE) and both possess typical Japanese refinement. Aside from these similarities, the two rides are very different machines. While both machines are shaft driven, the ACE uses the shaft housing as the swingarm. Although this arrangement is effective, it’s a bit lacking style-wise. However, the whitewall tires and the classic fenders and tank help to create a traditional design that turns heads when you’re out and about. The V-Star uses a different approach, utilizing a pivoting sub-frame design with a hidden mono-shock that keeps the lines fluid and consistent with the rest of the bike. Although this beast isn’t equipped with whitewall tires, it still cuts a graceful, glittering profile. The only flaw we noticed was the small headlight that

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Ural carburetors Installation and idle adjustment

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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Adjusting the Pekar K68 for Dnepr or Ural

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 11-11-2010

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1. Make sure the ignition timing is correct 2. Adjust the valves as necessary to ensure proper operation 3. Run the engine to warm it up a bit 4. Adjust the float setting. To do this, remove the carburetors (leave the throttle cables attached), remove the bowl and turn the carburetor upside down (fuel will spill). The float should look like this: Adjust as necessary by bending the float support (#37 in Figure 1). Reinstall Installation and idle adjustment 1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns. * Starting using the K68′s (cold weather) 1. Verify fuel flow. Apply choke (pull 52 in Fig1). 2. Using the ticklers (13) allow fuel to enter the bowl until fuel drains from (14) 3. With the ignition off, kick 1 or 2 times 4. Turn ignition on, and as soon as engine is warmed up (maybe sooner) push choke mechanisms to open choke Idle Adjustment (engine running and warm) 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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1998 Honda Shadow Aero Specifications And Review

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 24-11-2010

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can fix it – let us help. The color combo that would have been featured here, had we not got rained on. As light as the morning precipitation was, a rainsuit seemed silly, and surely jeans and a leather jacket would be enough. However, at the crest of the peninsula, El Nino let his wrath be felt. A full-on downpour of Florida- like proportions dropped from the sky, without the benefit of gulf-stream warmth. Suddenly, wearing geeky-looking Gore-Tex seemed like a very good idea. Riding through six inch deep floodwaters at about 15 mph, the Aero kept a very even keel. The floorboards (first ever on a Honda) kept the feet drier than they would have been otherwise. After a brief stop at a military museum, we headed back to Honda’s HQ for a van ride to lunch at Hollywood’s House of Blues. Detail 101: Witness the huge chrome headlight/speedo assembly, with matching idiot lights set into the triple clamp. We couldn’t form much of a riding impression from our rain-soaked 30 mile jaunt, but we liked what we found. If you’re a big fan of the ACE 750, you’ll be a big fan of the Aero. Although the styling is not ground-breaking, it isn’t a carbon copy of you-know-who (hint: They’re based out of Milwaukee). The detail on the Aero is beautiful, with tasteful chrome accents and well-finished pieces. We hope to get the big 1100 back for a full test against Suzuki’s new Intruder 1500LC, Harley’s new Road King Classic, and all the other cruiser big boys some time this spring, after El Nino goes away … Manufacturer: Honda Model: 1998 Shadow Aero Price (two-tone): $9,995.00 Engine: liquid-cooled 45 degree V-twin, single crank pin Bore and Stroke: 87.5 x 91.4mm Displacement: 1099cc Carburetion: Two 36mm CV Transmission: 5 speed Wheelbase: 66.1 in Seat Height: 28.5 in Fuel Capacity: 4.2 gal with .8 gal reserve Claimed Dry Weight: 623 lbs

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1992 Kawasaki ZZR 1100 technical specifications

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 04-11-2010

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Kawasaki ZZR 1100 1992: technical specifications Rating: 8.1 Performance: 7.7 Reliability: 9.3 Appearances: 8.3 Price/Quality: 7 # votes: 3 GENERAL Model Kawasaki ZZR 1100 1992 Category Sport
ENGINE Type 1052 cc, water cooled, 4 – cylinders in line, 4-stroke
Bore x stroke (mm) 76 mm x 58 mm Valves 4 valves per cylinder Power
146 hp (108.9 kW) @ 10500 rpm Torque 110 Nm (81.1 ft. lbs) @ 8500 rpm TRANSMISSION Gearbox 6 speed Final drive Chain WHEELS Front
The above specifications are subject to change without notice. Trademarks and logos of third parties used in the Site are exclusive property of the respective own

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ODYSSEY DRYCELL MOTORCYCLE BATTERY COMPATIBILITY

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 30-10-2010

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BMW 1200 1200 1150 1100 1100 1000 1000 1000 1000 900 850 800 800 800 750 750 750 750 750 650 650 600 600 500 BUELL 1200 1200 1200 1000 DUCATI 860 750 500 HARLEY DAVIDSON 1570 1570 1450 1450 1340 1340 1340 1200 883 HONDA 1800 1500 1200 1100 1000 1000 900 750 750 650 650 650 600 400 200 150 150 125 K1200RS, LT R1200C R1150GS, R R1100GS/R R1100RS/T/S/LT “K” Models R100/7 100RS R100GS, R, RS, RT R90/6, R90S R850R R80GS, R80ST R80, R80RT R80/7/RT K75, RT K75C, S R75/5 R75/7 R75/6 R65 R65LS R60/5 R60/6, R60/7 R50/5 S1 Lightning X1, S3, S3T, M2 S2/T, RS1200, RR1200 RR1000 GT, GTS GT, Laguna Seca GTL, GTV, Sport FXST, FLST FXD FXD FXST, FLST FXD FXST, FLST FL/H/T/HT XL, XLH XLH, XLH GL1800, VTX1800C Gold Wing-All Gold Wing-All Gold Wing-GL1100 CBX1000, SS opt. Gold Wing-GL1000 CBR900R,RR CB750A (Hondamatic) VFR740R/ RVF750R NT650, SLR650, NX650 Vigor 650 XR650L VT600C, CD, CBR600 CBR400F CB-1 TR200 Fat Cat CH150 Elite FES150 FES125, Pantheon (97 -) (98 -) (00 -) (94-00) (90 -) (83-93) (76-84) (83) (87-95) (69-76) (95-97) (80-96) (84-95) (78-84) (85-95) (85-95) (70-73) (76-84) (69-76) (84-95) (78-84) (70-73) (69-84) (70-73) (96-99) (ALL) (ALL) (87) (2007) (2007) (99-06) (00-06) (97-99) (91-99) (80-96) (97-03) (97-02) (01-06) (88-00) (84-87) (80-83) (82) (75-79) (93-99) (76-78) (90/94) (88-91) (ALL) (93-06) (87-03) (89-90) (86) (87) (ALL) (ALL) #3561 #3561 #3561 #3561 #3561 #4989 #4989 #3561 #4989 #4989 #3561 #3561 #4989 #4989 #4989 #3561 #3561 #4989 #4989 #4989 #3561 #3561 #4989 #3561 #3591** #3591 #3591 #3591 #4989 #4989 #3561 #3591 #2528 #2528 #3591 #2528 #3591 #3560 #2528** #2528** #2528 #3560* #3560* #3560* #3560* #3560* #2519* #3560* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* PC680 PC680 PC680 PC680 PC680 PC925L PC925L PC680 PC925L PC925L PC680 PC680 PC925L PC925L PC925L PC680 PC680 PC925L PC925L PC925L PC680 PC680 PC925L PC680 PC545MJ PC545MJ PC545MJ PC545MJ PC925L PC925L PC680 PC545MJ PC545 PC545 PC545MJ PC545 PC545MJ PC680MJ PC545 PC545 PC545 PC680MJ PC680MJ PC680MJ PC680MJ PC680MJ PC310 PC680MJ PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 cc model (year) cat. # mfg sku # KAWASAKI 1500 1500 1300 1000 1000 900 900 750 750 650 636 600 600 KTM 640 620 400 400 MOTO GUZZ I 1100 1100 1100 1000 1000 850 850 750 650 650 650 500 POLARIS All SUZUKI 1400 900 750 750 750 650 600 600 600 600 400 TRIUMPH 600 YAMAHA 1600 1300 1300 1200 1100 1100 1100 920 600 600 VN 1500-A Vulcan VN 1500-C Vulcan KZ 1300 Touring KZ 1000-P Police Z1000 ZX900-C, Ninja ZX900-E, F Ninja KZ750-L, Ninja Zx750 Ninja ZX, 7RR KLX650C, R ZX636-B Ninja ZX-6R ZX600-G, J Ninja ZX ZX600-K Ninja ZX Adventure, Duke, RXC Adventure, Duke, LC4 LC4 E/XC RXC LC4 Cali/Spc/Jackl/Stone/EV Quota/Sport 1100 VII EV/Bassa California III,Quota,Millie Convert,Daytona, LeMans LeMans T3, T4, T5 Nevada,NTX,Strada,V7,V75 NTX V65 V65 Florida V50 Victory GV 1400GC RF900, R, S, ZS GSX750F Katana GSX-R750 GSXR750W DR650SE GSF600S Bandit GSX600F Katana GSX-R600 RF600R, S GSF400 Bandit Daytona 600 XV 1600 Road Star 1300 Royal Star XVZ Venture Royale XVZ12T Venture XJ1100 Maxim XS 1100, L, S XV 1100, S/ Virago XV 920/R/M Virago XJ600S Seca II XT600E (87-98) (96-97) (79-82) (82-05) (03-04) (98-99) (00-04) (93) (91-97) (93-96) (03-04) (98-02) (03) (99-02) (96-98) (96-98) (96-01) (94-05) (97-02) (98-99) (ALL) (86-88) (94-97) (98-03) (96-99) (94-95) (96-04) (96-03) (98-04) (97-03) (94-96) (91-93) (03-04) (99-03) (96-03) (86-92) (83-85) (82) (78-92) (86-99) (81-83) (92-98) (90-95) #3560 #3560 #3560 #3560 #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #4989 #2528 #4989 #4989 #4989 #4989 #4989 #3561 #3561 #4989 #3561 #4989 #2519* #3560 #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2528*** #2528*** #3560 #3560 #3560 #3560 #3560 #3560 #2519* #2519* PC680MJ PC680MJ PC680MJ PC680MJ PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC925L PC545 PC925L PC925L PC925L PC925L PC925L PC680 PC680 PC925L PC680 PC925L PC310 PC680MJ PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC545 PC545 PC680MJ PC680MJ PC680MJ PC680MJ PC680MJ PC680MJ PC310 PC310

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KAWASAKI TERYX EFI Installation Instructions.

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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Basic Tuning Adjustments 1. The following instructions are for basic fuel tuning. Modes 1,2, & 3 are allowing adjustments to increase and decrease the amount of fuel the engine needs. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning only. DO NOT change modes 4 & 5 when doing basic tuning! 2. To help understand how these modes work, you can think of them as if you were working with a carburetor. 3. Remember each time you push the MODE button you will be advancing to the next mode. Push the MODE button once and you are now in mode 1, push the MODE button again and you are now in mode 2 and so on. You only need to be concerned with modes 1, 2 & 3 for basic tuning. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning ONLY. 4. If you need to go back to the settings that were pre programmed when you purchased the controller, just look at the picture in each mode, the colored square represents where the settings were when you purchased the controller. 5. Looking at the controller you will see eight lights with numbers under them, this is what you need to look at when changing settings. The #1 light on the controller represents the leanest setting. TRINITY RACING DOES NOT TAKE REPONSIBLITY FOR DAMAGES THAT MAY OCCUR DURING OPERATION OF YOUR VEHICLE UNDER IMPROPER JET SETTINGS. IT IS THE FINAL RESPONSIBLITY OF THE OWNER/RIDER TO ADJUST JETTING TO SPECIFIC RIDING CONDITIONS AND ELEVATION BEFORE RIDING. WARNING! 1.877.FAS TOYS 2.Remove both seats 6. Re-install engine cover and seats. 6. Mode 1 green light represents idle & cruise adjustment (i.e. pilot jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button once and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 7. Mode 2 yellow light represents an additional amount of fuel added during acceleration (i.e. needle position). To adjust this setting, push MODE twice and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 12 34 56 7 8 12 34 56 7 8 8. Mode 3 red light represents more fuel being added during full throttle (i.e. main jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button three times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 9. If you are confident about your tuning skills and feel you need to adjust other parameters, see Advanced Tuning. 12 34 56 7 8 Advanced Tuning Adjustments 1. Advance tuning has two modes in which to adjust. They are called mode 4 and mode 5. In basic tuning, you are changing the amount of fuel that the engine receives, but with advance tuning, you will be changing when the fuel will be available. In each mode you can adjust how soon the fuel delivery occurs. 2. Mode 4 yellow light and blue light represent when the fuel delivery is available during partial throttle acceleration. To adjust this setting, push the MODE button four times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. Only the yellow light will be changing.

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Honda VT1100C Shadow, Aero, Sabre SPECIFIC-FIT SADDLEBAGS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 23-04-2011

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The saddlebag supports are hinged 3 so they can adjust to any variance in your motorcycle’s fender strut bolt locations. The supports have a one-inch offset 4 that angles the supports outward so they space the bags away from the motorcycle’s chassis components, wheels, brakes, and moving parts. Before removing or changing any hardware, hold the supports next to the motorcycle to familiarize yourself with how they will be installed. Remove the original fender mounting bolts from one side of the fender strut and temporarily mount one support with a 10mm bolt, a plastic and steel spacer, and two washers into the front fender stay bolt hole. Then insert an 8mm bolt, a plastic and steel spacer, and two washers into the rear fender stay bolt hole. Verify that each bolt is the proper length. IMPORTANT: The VT1100 Shadow Classic, Aero, or Sabre models have 10mm (front) and 8mm (rear) threaded holes in the fender strut. Use care to not insert the wrong size mounting bolt in the strut. When installing a bolt into the fender strut, check to be sure that it does not extend inside the fender further than the original fasteners. If it does, the excess length of the bolt must be cut off, or exchanged for a shorter bolt you obtain from the hardware store or a motorcycle shop. After verifying the mounting bolts are the proper length, remove the support from the motorcycle’s fender strut. Install a grommet in each of the large holes 5 on the back side of each saddlebag. Then insert a plastic spacer 6 in each of the grommets TIP: Use soapy water to lubricate the grommets so they will slip into the holes in the bag. The vehicle images in this instruction set may be different than your motorcycle. Continued on next page… 3 Lay a support 7 (with the joint towards the rear of the bag) on the back of a bag. Temporarily put the mounting bolts 8 through the support’s holes and into the plas- tic spacers in the grommets. Place one of the support clips 9 over the center of the lower portion of the support, so the two holes in the clip align with the predrilled holes in the bag. Use the 3/16” screws and nuts from the hardware kit to attach the support clip to the backup plate inside the bag. Place the nuts on the outside of the bag. Do not over- tighten the hardware, as this may cause damage to the saddlebag. Remove the mounting bolts from the support and the plastic spacers

V-Star 1100 And Dragstar 1100 Modification V-Star Driving/ Passing Lights Factory Chrome Light Bar Cover Installation

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Use a rotary tool to widen the fastening area of the lower backside clips on the cover. The total width between the clips should be 4 æ inches. Trim off º inch on both inside ends of the lower backside attachment clips. Trim the clips equally. The following picture shows a modified cover. Narrow the clips on both ends to fit over the welds on the bar. The cover will not attach to the bar if the width between the clips is too narrow. If the width is too wide the cover may slide sideways on the bar. Narrow both clips equally to center the cover over the welds on the lower edge of the bar. The top of the cover is modified to allow the cover to fit over the bolts on the light bar. The top edge of the cover is filed æ inch deep and 5/8 inch wide to fit over the bolts. The back top edge is filed or ground 1/8 inch to fit over the light bar fastening bracket. Use care when filing chrome covered plastic. The following picture will help to complete this step in the modification. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. The ends of the cover are modified to allow the cover to fit over the upward curved light bar. The upper openings on the ends of the cover that fit over the bar must be filed to enlarge the area. Grinding the cover ends will allow the cover to fit and clip onto the bar. The end openings are filed or ground at an angle to match the slope of the bar. This picture shows the outer end of the cover. The ends of this cover have been modified by enlarging the area on the upper edges to fit over the upward curving light bar. The ends must be enlarged 1/8 inch on the top edge. The cover edge can be slanted upward to match the curved bar. Modify the cover ends until it fits without the outer chrome cover touching the bar. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Sometimes the modified light bar cover may touch the bottom of the headlight. Modify the cover, or adjust the bar or headlight if you notice the headlight touching the bar cover. This modification makes the V-Star motorcycle with Yamaha driving lights look better. The light bar bolts are covered and the chrome cover improves the appearance of the front of your bike. Other V-Star riders will notice how nice the front of your bike looks with the chrome light bar cover installed

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HONDA 1100 ACE, AERO AND SABRE CENTERSTAND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-12-2010

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Relocation of Regulator. Laying under the right side of the motorcycle, locate the voltage regulator. (finned aluminum box-approximately 3″x 4″) Note: See photo #1 – regulator already relocated. Remove the (2) 10 mm bolts attaching the regulator to the frame. Attach the bracket supplied to the regulator as shown. Using the original bolts, attach the regulator and bracket assembly to the frame as shown in photo #1 using the two 10 mm bolts supplied. Clamping Centerstand to Frame . Notice the centerstand is shipped with (2) white plastic washers. Note: See photo #2-A These are in place to overcome the spring tension or lock the stand in place and allow you to pivot the lower stand down partially to make installation easier. Pivot the upper stand about half way from the retracted to the extended (down) position. Note: This will require some force. If the stand will not stay in the position you can further tighten the two 9/16″ pivot nuts. Remove the bolts from the four band clamps. Wrap the (2) small clamps around the small upper frame tube and start the bolts so that the bolt will be at the bottom of the tube and the wrench head facing towards the rear of the motorcycle. Note: See photo #2. Center the stand on the frame from side to side so as to gain even clearance between the feet on the centerstand and the rear tire when the stand is in the retracted position. Holding the larger cradle up against the frame, tighten the (2) small clamps enough to hold the centerstand in place. Install one of the large clamps as shown in photo #3-A. Install the 2nd large clamp as shown in photo #2-C. Again retract the stand and check that the feet have even amounts of space from the side of the rear tire. Tighten the flour clamps securely 5-7 ft. lbs. Next remove the (2) 9/16″ pivot nuts and the white plastic washers as shown in photo #2-A. Re-install and tighten the 9/16″ pivot nuts securely 8-12 ft lbs. With the stand in the retracted position-adjust the stop bolt and lock nut, see photo #3-B, so that the stand is parallel with the ground and does not come in contact with any parts of the motorcycle. Using your new centerstand . To put the motorcycle up onto the centerstand, hold the left handle bar and saddlebag guard rail or grab under the bottom of the seat. Using the ball of your right foot, lower the stand to the ground. Rock the motorcycle from side to side slightly until you feel both feet of the stand touching the ground. Now put all of your weight onto the centerstand pedal (stand on it). Pull up and back on the grab rail or seat using a rocking motion to rock the motorcycle up onto the stand. Remember it is a matter of using your body weight and leverage not lifting!

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