Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010
Complaint: On R 1100 RS models (above serial numbers only) with luggage racks, a crack may develop in the rear section of the frame (see drawing) if a load exceeding the permitted 11 lb. is applied to the luggage rack, or if a top case is used. Remedy: Please check all R 1100 RS models (in serial number range above) which pass through your workshops for cracks on the rear section of the frame. Cracked frames should be exchanged with the new part listed below. The new rear frame has been reinforced to use with larger loads. New Part: 46 51 2 320 698 (reinforced rear frame) Caution: Since the introduction of the rear luggage grid to accommodate the 33 liter removable top box, it is vital that this luggage grid and 33 liter top box not be installed on any of the above unless the reinforced rear frame is fitted, or a frame reinforcement kit is installed (a kit will be made available in the future to reinforce the rear frame of the above models, in order to install the 33 liter top box). The new reinforced rear frame (46 51 2 320 698) has been fitted since May 1995 production. Use of the new rear section of frame on an earlier production bike requires a new rear section of the dual seat as follows: Parts 52 53 2 325 121 Flash Green 52 53 2 325 122 Red Needed: 52 53 2 325 123 Black 52 53 2 325 120 Light Gray 52 53 2 325 211 Anthracite Warranty: Please explain to your customers that the top case can only be installed on bikes with reinforced rear frames. Claims for frame cracks which result from operation with large loads beyond specification will not be honored under the terms of the Limited Motorcycle Warranty.
Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010
The BRP Dash Frame mounts in place of the factory cup holder/storage pocket. Remove the screws holding the cup holder or storage pocket from the back of the dash and remove it. Hold the Dash Frame up on your dash. The top of the frame includes a channel that your dash slips into to provide support. Press the frame firmly up and against the dash. Be sure the frame is centered and straight. Using the frame as your template drill out the two top holes using a 13/64″ drill. Each hole is located at the top corner of the frame. Alternatively, you can mark the location of the holes, then drill them out with the frame removed. Using the smaller button head bolts supplied with this kit, along with the nylock nut and rubber backed washer, mount each of the two top corners of the frame. Use caution when tightening however. The angle of the dash frame is different than the angle of your plastic dash. The two bolts are only needed to snug the frame against your dash. You should only snug the bolt up, but don’t tighten it down. Looking from the back of the dash, you’ll see that the rubber washer does not lay flat against the plastic of the dash. This is correct. Again, these bolts are only to snug the frame against your dash and should not be tightened down. Doing so could damage your dash. The supplied nuts are nylock and will not back off even though the bolt is not tightened.
Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 30-11-2010
Bodywork removal 1. Refer to section 8 of the service manual and remove the following: a) Right and left Under Cowlings (NOTE: Two of these screws will NOT be re-installed) b) Cover, Front Lower 2. Refer to section 7 of the service manual to remove the radiator mounting bolts. It is not necessary to remove the radiator. 3. Remove the Horn and the Front Engine Cover: a) Remove the Horn. b) Refer to page 3-5 of the service manual and remove the Front Engine Cover. (NOTE: This part will NOT be re-installed) NOTE: To view a video (approximately 10 minutes in length) of the inspection and installation procedure, click here (available on January 23, 2009). Frame inspection 1. Inspecting the frame for damage: a) Inspect the frame for cracks on the left and right sides of the frame as indicated in the photos and graphic below using the Dye Penetrant test kit which will be sent to your dealership by Jan.23th. This inspection has to be done not only on the outside but also on the inside of the frame spars. b) If no cracks are detected, thoroughly clean the frame area using a clean cloth (not a shop rag) and the kit cleaner to remove the dye penetrant used for the inspection. NOTE: * Protect the surrounding areas where inspection is not required from the overspray of the Dye Penetrant. * Read and understand the instructions and handling precautions of the Dye Penetrant before applying it. * If the motorcycle is excessively dirty, prewash it with soap and water before applying the Dye Penetrant.
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 31-12-2011
Stand Installation. Locate the four mounting holes on the frame that correspond with the holes in the centerstand. Slide the front of the centerstand up into the frame and align the large bolt holes with those in the frame. Install the (2) 7/16″ x 1″ bolts with washers thru the frame and centerstand. Install the (2) 7/16″ nuts and make finger tight. (on California models the fuel tank vent canister must be removed and the hoses bypassed see note below) Pivot the rear of the centerstand up to align the (2) smaller holes in the stand with those in the frame. Insert a phillips screwdriver into one of the (2) remaining mounting holes and pry the other hole into alignment. Install one of the ¼” x ¾” bolt with a washer from the top down thru the frame and centerstand. Install the lock nut finger tight. Remove the screwdriver and install the remaining ¼”x¾” bolt washer and nut. Tighten the ¼ ” bolts securely 10-12 ft. lbs., then tighten the 7/16″ bolts securely 20-24 ft. lbs. 2. Stop Bumper Installation. Next install the centerstand-stop bumper and bracket onto the frame. Locate the bolt “A” in photo #1. Notice there is another 10 mm bolt just below it. Remove the lower bolt. Attach the bumper bracket to this hole using the longer bolt and washer supplied. The leg of the bracket with the bumper should face inward towards the center of the motorcycle. Adjust the height of the bracket to keep the pedal arm 3/8″ to ½” from the bottom of the exhaust pipe. Tighten securely. 3. Emissions Valve Relocation. You will notice that the right leg of the stand near the foot comes in contact with the emissions valve. The valve needs to be moved outward or to the right as you are sitting on the motorcycle approximately ¾”. This is done as follows: Remove the (2) 10 mm bolts holding the emission valve and bracket to the frame. See photo #2. With the hoses still attached pull the valve down to gain access to the (3) allen screws. Remove the (3) allen screws and (2) nuts holding the bracket to the valve, turn the bracket over and re-assemble the valve onto the bracket as shown in photo #3. Re-install the valve onto the frame. You may need to rotate the hose clamp clips out of the way and/or bend the entire valve bracket assembly outward slightly to gain clearance between the centerstand leg and foot. 4. Using Your New Centerstand. To put the motorcycle up onto the centerstand, hold the left handle bar and saddlebag guard rail. Using the ball of your right foot, lower the stand to the ground. Rock the motorcycle from side to side slightly until you feel both feet of the stand touching the ground. Now, put all of your weight on to the centerstand pedal (stand on it). Pull up and back on the grab rail using a rocking motion to rock the motorcycle up on to the stand. Remember it is a matter of using your body weight and leverage not lifting! 5. Getting the Bike Down off the Centerstand. Holding the left handle bar and saddlebag guardrail, firmly rock the motorcycle off the centerstand. You can also rock it off while sitting on the motorcycle.
Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-11-2010
1) Place motorcycle on a smooth level surface on its side stand. 2) Install leveling screw jacks so that motorcycle is in an upright and level position. 3) Remove saddlebags. 4) Mount bracket A ( left side ) to the 3 bolts that attach the rear fender and sub frame to the main motorcycle frame. new bolts provided 5) Mount bracket B ( right side ) to the 3 bolts that attach the rear fender and sub frame to the main motorcycle frame. new bolts provided 6) Bracket C mounts to the outside of bracket A at the rear lower hole. ( left ) 7) Bracket D mounts to the outside of bracket B at the rear lower hole. ( right ) 8) Bracket E ( left ) attaches to the outside of the motorcycle frame just under the rear foot peg and above the frame weld with the provided U-bolt. see diagram 9) Bracket F ( right ) attaches to the outside of the motorcycle frame just under the rear foot peg and above the frame weld with the provided U-bolt. see diagram 10) Bolt brackets C and D to the top rear of the receiver hitch. 11) Bolt brackets E and F to the top of the forward arms of the receiver hitch. 12) Tighten all bolts at this time. 13) Remount saddlebags and check all bolts for tightness. 1. Place your motorcycle on a smooth level surface and attach leveling jack stands. 2. Assemble axles, wheels, and fenders onto the tow-pac hitch cart. 3. Push the hitch mount into the receiver hitch. (this might bea little difficult until you get use to doing it. Removing the paint from the hitch mount and applying a little grease will help.) 4. Place the hitch pin through the receiver hitch and hitch mount ( alignment plate ). Install and tighten the tension bolt. 5. Align InstaTrike wheels. (initial installation only. Check periodically and realign if necessary) 6. Bolt lean stop braces to hitch. (Bolt inserts from the bottom) Be certain to replace washers/spacers in the same configuration as when you removed them.