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MOTORCYCLE ROLLER CHAIN Maintenance and Lubrication

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-11-2010

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Cleaning and Relubrication Perhaps the largest contributor to shortened chain life is inadequate lubrica- tion. All working parts of a chain should be lubricated uniformly. The use of the highest viscosity oil that allows for flow between the link plates and coats pin-bushing areas will normally provide the greatest wear resistance. Apply oil to the upper edges of link plates. This allows for the greatest access of oil to pin-bushing joints. For open drives, excess lubrication on outer chain surfaces should be removed, since it will either be thrown off during operation or serve to collect foreign materials. If foreign objects or surplus lubrication accumulates on chain surfaces to the extent of making re-lubrication of the joints impossible, the chain must be cleaned. Standard roller chains may be cleaned by washing in kerosene or any other good petroleum-based solvent. WARNING: These solvents are flammable. Agitate the chain to assure penetration of the solvent and a thorough flushing of the pin-bushing areas. Drain off excess solvent and inspect bushings and pins for wear. Replace the chain if wear is excessive or parts are fractured or missing. O-ring chains may be cleaned externallyby washing in kerosene. Do not use any other cleaning agent or the O-rings may be damaged. When cleaning O- ring chain, clean only the external areas of the chain. Do not attempt to force kerosene into the pin-bush cavity. Do not try to repair a worn-out chain by replacing individual links. The pitch of the new links will be shorter and will most likely result in chain fatigue failure and/or severe sprocket damage. For chains which are still usable, soak them in SAE 40 or 50 automotive engine oil (without additives). Flexing the chain in oil will assure greater penetration of lubricant. Inspect and clean sprockets. If sprockets are worn or damaged, they should be replaced.Installing new chain on worn out sprockets will significantly shorten the chain’s service life. WARNING: always wear eye protection when assembling or disassembling chain

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Yamaha YZ 250F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 30-12-2011

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Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the intake camshaft cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Fit the half moon shaped retainers in the grooves of the Hot Cams camshaft bearings to ensure good fit, set retainers aside for the time. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets, bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head, and pack some in the camshaft bearings. Set the exhaust cam into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. The cam chain pulls the camshaft sprockets in a counter clockwise direction and the slack of the chain must be kept on the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. The exhaust cam has two timing marks on it. When correctly installed one mark will be at the 9 o’clock position and the other mark will be at the 12 o’clock position. When correctly timed the mark at 9 o’clock will be aligned with the valve cover gasket surface. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. The intake cam has two timing marks also. One at 12 o’clock and the other at 3 o’clock. When both cams are installed correctly, the valve cover gasket surface will form a straight line through the exhaust timing mark at 9 o’clock and the intake timing mark at 3 o’clock

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Harley-Davidson CHAIN DRIVE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-04-2012

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1) Assemble & install the chain tensioner assembly over the primary chain as shown in figure 1. 2) Install the compensator sprocket with extender & spacer (numbers 5, 6, & 7, FIG 2)(#7 is not included in this kit), primary chain, chain tensioner, and clutch basket simultaneously onto the motor drive shaft & transmission main shaft. Rotate the chain drive slightly as needed to allow the splines to line-up. 3) Install the chain tensioner nut loosely on the chain tensioner bolt. 4) Install the sliding cam onto the compensator sprocket, & slide the compensating sprocket cover-assembly (#3) over the cam. 5) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “Red” thread-lock on the threads of the motor drive shaft, & install the motor nut loosely with the fingers at this time. The hex spacer (#7) and spacer (#2) as seen in fig.2 are not provided in Rivera Engineering’s chain drive kit. These components are required with some applications, and can be purchased from your local Harley-Davidson dealer. FIG 2 6) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “red” thread-lock on the threads of the transmission main-shaft and loosely install the clutch hub nut (left hand threads). 7) Place the HD “Primary Drive Locking Tool” HD-41214 on the primary chain as shown in figure XXX and tighten the motor sprocket nut to 150-165 foot-pounds. 8)Turn the locking tool 180 degrees and move it to the clutch sprocket. Tighten the clutch hub nut to 70-80 foot pounds (left- hand thread). Adjust chain tension so that the top strand has 5/8″- to-7/8″ of up and down play (cold drive train). Tighten the center bolt nut to 21-29 foot pounds of torque.

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Yamaha YZ400/426F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 01-01-2012

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Cleanliness is always a good place to start. Make sure the motorcycle is cleaned thoroughly before you start. It would be advisable to use an engine degreaser on the frame and the engine. This will ensure a clean engine during the assembly process and less of a chance of thread damage and/or dirt contamination in the engine during reassembly. And as always, replace any fiber-based gasket that was moved in any way, i.e.: cam chain tensioner. You will need basic hand tools and a torque wrench, machine towels (rags), some cleaning solvent, and a cam chain tensioner gasket. And the Hot Cams’ Degree Wheel Kit if you so desire. We will start by removing the tank and seat, top engine mount, and the cam cover. Remove the crankshaft cap and timing hole cap on the left engine case cover. Remove the spark plug. Rotate the engine in a counter clockwise (CCW) direction. Position the engine on top dead center (TDC) using the mark on the flywheel or better yet a degree wheel using a positive stop. Be sure to notice that the intake valves were the last to move, this will ensure the engine of being on “true” TDC. True top dead center occurs when both the intake and exhaust valve are closed when the piston is at TDC. This is technically the end of the compression stroke and the Page 1
beginning of the power stroke. The “artificial” TDC is during the overlap when both the intake and exhaust valves would be open. Note the positioning of the cam lobes (their included angle will be close to 170 degrees), this will help during the installation of your new Hot Cams camshafts Remove the cap bolt on the end of the cam chain tensioner block, be aware of the copper washer. Release the spring tension on the cam chain tensioner by turning the flat blade screw slot inside the adjuster block in a clockwise (CW) direction; it will lock in the retracted position. Remove the two 8mm headed bolts that hold the cam chain tensioner to the cylinder block. Remove and discard the gasket. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that secure the intake cam cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft

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YAMAHA XS650H/ SH Supplementary Service Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 21-11-2010

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Ignition timing check 1. Ignition timing is checked with a timing light by observing the position of the rotor pointer and the marks stamped on the timing plate. The timing plate is marked as follows. “ll” Firing range for No. 1 (L.H.) “T” Top Dead Center for No. 1, fL.H.1 cylinder 2. Connect the timing light to the left cylinder spark plug lead wire. 3. Start the engine and keep the engine speed as specified. Use a tachometer to check the engine speed. B. PICK-UP COIL ASSEMBLY The method of mounting the pick-up coil assembly is changed for easier service work. Thus, the followings “Pick-up coil assembly removal” and “Pick-up coil assembly reinstallation” should be changed. Pick-up coil assembly removal Remove the pick-up coil securing screws and remove the pick-up coil assembly. Pick-up coil assembly reinstallation Install the pick-up coil assembly on to the stator assembly. _ L 4. Specified engine speed: 1,200 r/min The rotor pointer should be within the limits of ” fl ” on the timing plate. If it exceeds the limits or does not steady, check the timing plate for tight- ness and/or ignition system for damage. NOTE: Ignition timing is not adjustable. C. FUEL LEVEL The carburetor is furnished with a drain screw to provide easy access to service work. Thus, the following “Fuel level measurement” should be added. Fuel level measurement NOTE: Before checking the fuel level, note the follow- ing: 1. Place the motorcycle on a level surface. 2. Adjust the motorcycle position by placing a suitable stand or a garage jack under the engine so that the carburetor is positioned vertically. 1. 2. Connect the level gauge (special tool) or a vinyl pipe of 6 mm (0.24 in) in inside diameter to the float bowl nozzle left or right side carburetor. Set the gauge as shown and loosen the drain screw 3. Start the engine and stop it after a few minutes of run. This procedure is neces- sary to obtain the correct fuel level. NOTE: Make sure the fuel petcock is “ON” or “RES” oosition. 4. Note the fuel level and bring the gauge to the other end of the carburetor line and repeat step 3 above. Note the fuel level again and compare it with the previous gauge reading. They should be equal. If not, place a suitable size of wooden piece or the. alike under the center stand and adjust. 5. Check the fuel level one by one. The level should be in the specified range.

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1981-1983 Yamaha Virago 750 & 920 Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 11-02-2012

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Start by loosening the rear cylinder down tube bolt located on the top of the old mufflers center collector in front of the rear tire. 2. Remove both of the front cylinder exhaust pipe head nuts and set them to the side for reuse with the MAC exhaust system. 3. Remove the right side passenger’s foot peg. Set the foot peg aside as you will need to reinstall it. 4. Remove the left side passenger’s foot peg. Set this foot peg aside as it will also need to be reinstalled. Note: When you remove this bolt the entire exhaust system will be loose and may fall. You will need to support the old exhaust at this point to keep from injuring yourself. Gently move the old exhaust system side to side to remove it from the rear cylinder down tube. Once the exhaust system is loose from the down tube remove the system from under the Virago. 5. Remove the bolt holding the rear brake pedal in place and remove the brake pedal from the motorcycle. Note: Set both the bolt and the pedal aside for reinstallation. 6. Next loosen the nut on the drivers right foot peg, 1 full turn to start with. Then remove the rear nut on the same foot peg. (Note: The bolt that this nut is on goes completely through the motorcycle. This is the center stand mounting bolt.) Now remove the front nut and set both aside for reuse with the MAC system. 7. Install the center stand stop bracket under the left passenger foot peg. Install this bracket with the 90° bend facing down and towards the rear tire. (Note: Center stand sop bracket in provided in the hardware kit and is approx. 5″ long with a 90° bend in it.) Adjust the bracket by one of the large bolts through the foot peg then through the bracket and then install it into the stock location. Put on one of the washers and a nut and snug up the nut. Lower the center stand until the center stand come in to contact with the bottom of the bracket. Tighten the nut until it will hold the bracket securely. 8. Install the rear down tube clamp onto the rear muffler and install the medium sized nut/bolt/washer onto the clamp just finger tight. 9. Install the (2) small bolts into the channel bracket on the rear muffler. Install the rear mounting bracket onto the two bolts and then install the washers and nuts onto each. Tighten the (2) nuts only slight amount so that you can slide the bracket front to rear to insure that when you install the bracket you position it properly. 10. Slide the rear pipe onto the rear down tube about ¼”to ¾” past the pre-cut slots on the rear muffler pipe. Slightly snug the clamp making sure that the position of the bolt and nut will not interfere with any moving parts. The final position of this bolt can hit the tire if it is not positioned properly. 11. Install the other large bolt into the right passenger and then through the top hole in the rear muffler mounting bracket. Insert the bolt into the stock location and install the washer and the nut. 12. Align the rear muffler and you can then tighten the nuts on the rear muffler mounting bracket, the cylinder down tube and the right side passenger foot peg.
13. Install the front muffler on the rear most mounting bolt of the drivers foot peg and put the stock nut back onto the bolt. Hand tighten the bolt only at this time. Note: Install the nut at this time is only to support the muffler and to insure that the pipe does not fall on the ground while you complete the next step. 14. Lift the front head pipe into position and start the stock nuts onto the studs. It is strongly recommended that you install new exhaust gasket at this time. Note: The new exhaust gaskets are not included in the kit but are available at your local Yamaha Dealer. After gaskets are installed hand tighten the front head pipe. 15. Remove the nut from the drivers foot peg bolt and reinstall the drivers foot peg. Note: Hand tighten only at this time. 16. Finish tightening the nuts on the front head pipes. (Install these nuts according to Yamaha’s Factory specifications.) Once the nuts are tightened on the head pipe you can then tighten the drivers foot peg nuts. 17. Reinstall the rear brake pedal and tighten the bolt that holds it on to factory specifications. 18. Check all of the bolts that you have installed of removed to insure that they are tight. 19. Start the motorcycle and check for any leaks. 20. You are finished with your new MAC Exhaust System.

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1999 Toyota Camry LE V6 Body and Interior Maintenance Record

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 03-10-2011

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Action Date Mileage Day Cost (with tax) By Interval Notes Oil and Oil Filter Change 8/30/1999 2494 Monday$77.97 Dealer 2494Non-synthetic 5w-30 (Toyota dealer stock) Oil and Oil Filter Change 10/31/1999 5484 Sunday $30 Owner 2988.5Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Oil and Oil Filter Change 12/30/1999 8460 Thursday$30 Owner 2975.9Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Oil and Oil Filter Change 2/21/2000 11414 Monday $30 Owner 2953.3Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Oil and Oil Filter Change 4/22/2000 14479 Saturday$30 Owner 3065.6Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Oil and Oil Filter Change 7/4/2000 17339 Tuesday$30 Owner 2860.1Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Air Filter – Replace 7/4/2000 17339 Tuesday$15 Owner 17339Purolator A24690 Air Filter Oil and Oil Filter Change 9/16/2000 20161 Saturday$30 Owner 2821.9Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Transmission Drain and Fill 10/27/2000 21913 Saturday$15 Owner 21913Drain and Fill 2.5 Quarts Mobil 1 Dexron III Synthetic ATF Transmission Drain and Fill 10/28/2000 21920 Sunday $15 Owner 7Drain and Fill 2.5 Quarts Mobil 1 Dexron III Synthetic ATF Oil and Oil Filter Change 11/19/2000 23066 Sunday $30 Owner 2904.6Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Oil and Oil Filter Change 2/11/2001 26062 Sunday $30 Owner 2996.1Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Transmission Flush 4/30/2001 28351 Monday$135 Dealer 2835113 Quarts Mobil 1 Dexron III Synthetic ATF – TransTech Flush Tires – Rotate 5/12/2001 28766 Saturday$0 Dealer 28766Tires – Rotate Coolant Flush 5/12/2001 28766 Saturday$112 Dealer 28766Toyota Red Coolant + MOC Flush (Extended warranty with service) Oil and Oil Filter Change 5/13/2001 28793 Sunday $30 Owner 2730.6Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Air Filter – Replace 5/13/2001 28793 Sunday $15 Owner 11454Purolator A24690 Air Filter PCV Valve – Replace 5/26/2001 31083 Saturday$10 Owner 31083Toyota OEM PCV Valve Windshield Wipers – Replace 5/26/2001 31083 Saturday$10 Owner 31083Windshield Wipers – Replace Oil and Oil Filter Change 5/27/2001 31296 Monday $30 Owner 2502.8Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Oil and Oil Filter Change 9/15/2001 34374 Saturday$30 Owner 3078.5Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Tires – Replace 9/28/2001 34784 Friday$431.23 Dealer 34784 (4) Bridgestone RE950 Tires (2 of original tires had tread separation – ~30% tread remaining) Oil and Oil Filter Change 11/12/2001 37365 Monday $30 Owner

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HONDA GL1800 TIMING CHAIN COVER INSPECTION NUT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 28-02-2011

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GL1800 TIMING CHAIN COVER INSPECTION NUT 1. Place bike on center stand. 2. Remove the inspection nut on the bike using a 17mm socket. 3. Remove the rubber o-ring seal from the inspection nut and place on new inspection nut. 4. Install the new inspection nut using the 17mm socket.

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MACHINE SPECIFICATION FOR 115cc (UNDERBONE) (4-stroke horizontal layout engine)

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 12-12-2010

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(This is for clarification only. Other parts not listed in Art. 2.5 & 2.6 can be altered or replaced. Change of specification means modification, changes or removal of the parts.) 2.6.1 Change of compression ratio is allowed. 2.6.2 Setting of carburetor, attachment or size change of air funnel. 2.6.3 Inlet opening of fuel tank for fuel charge may be modified but cannot be relocated. 2.6.4 Change of fuel pipe and fuel cork. 2.6.5 Change of exhaust pipe and muffler, but must have silencer. 2.6.6 Material of clutch discs and specifications of spring. Hand clutch is allowed. 2.6.7 Gear ratios are free. 2.6.8 Starting device and parts relative to this device may be removed. 2.6.9 Modification or removal of air cleaner box, wire harness and control wires. 2.6.10 Removal of speedometer (including meter gearbox and cable.) 2.6.11 Removal of drive chain case and cover. Change of drive chain is allowed. 2.6.12 Change of final gear ratio is allowed. 2.6.13 Attachment of bead stopper and balance weight to tyre. 2.6.14 Modification and change of rear brake part is allowed. 2.6.15 Frame body may be strengthened. 2.6.16 Modification and change to brackets and pedals including footrest. 2.6.17 Front suspension unit must remain as originally produced by the manufacturer. However, the following internal parts of the fork can be modified: Shims, hydraulic piston, oil passages, springs and spacers. 2.6.18 Attachment of stabilizer to strengthen or reinforcing rear swing arm is allowed. 2.6.19 Removal of dust seals. 2.6.20 Rear suspension unit must remain as originally produced by the manufacturer. However rear suspension unit is free. The rear linkage must remain as originally produced by the manufacturer. 2.6.21 Handle bars, clutch and front brake lever may be changed by an after market copy. Clutch springs may be changed. 2.6.22 Steering dampers may be fitted. They must not act in any way as a steering lock limiting device. 2.6.23 Materials of streamlining and material of seat cowling. (However, expensive materials such as carbon fibre and kevlar are not allowed). 2.6.24 Removal of rear mudguard and side cover. Front mudguard may be cut but not less than 6 inches from the front fork on original part. 2.6.25 All lubricants are free 2.6.26 Adjusting and polishing any parts are allowed. Adjusting is defined as : “To select each part or assembly complete with-in the limit of single or total tolerance” (i.e. that of valve clearance, ignition timing etc.) 2.6.27 Cutting unnecessary stays is

YAMAHA CRANKSHAFT LOWER END REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION TOOLS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-01-2012

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90 LOWER END REMOVAL & INSTALLATION TOOLS SHOP EQUIPMENT & TOOLS 35-8399 35-8513 35-8516 35-8508 35-8504 35-8507 YAMAHA CRANKSHAFT PROTECTORS Sold each. 35-8504 YM-4063-A, XV750/920 Virago, XT550, YFP350, YFM660R Raptor 35-8399 YM-1382, XT250/XT350, RZ350, YFP350, YFZ350 35-8507 YM-33282, XV500 Virago, XZ550 Vision, XVZ12/13 Venture & Venture Royale, VMX12 V-Max 35-8508 YM-38145, XV750/XV1000 Virago YAMAHA CRANKSHAFT INSTALLATION SET Sold as a set. Consists of the following: Qt1-Installing Pot, Qt1-Pot Spacer, Qt1-Bolt. 35-8509 YU-90050 Crankshaft Installation Set OPTIONAL POT SPACERS 35-8513 YU-90070-A, XV750/920 Virago, XT550, TT600 35-8515 YU-91044, YFM350, SRX600, XT550/600 35-8516 YU-1202, SR500, TT/XT500 CRANKCASE PRESSURE TESTER An accurate method for checking possible air leaks on two-stroke engines. Complete with air pressure gauge, pump-up bulb and all fittings and adapters for single and multi-cylinder two-cycle engines. 35-5962 Crankcase Pressure Tester CRANKSHAFT INSTALLING JIG TOOL Supports and centers crankshaft webs while assembling two-stroke engine cases and rebuilding crankshafts. Prevents rod misalignment. Adjustable tang ends. 35-9804 Crankshaft Installing Jig Tool CRANKCASE SEPARATOR TOOL This tool will work on most two and four stroke engines that have a vertically split crankcase. Moveable fingers allow a multitude of bolt patterns to be used so it will work on a variety of models. Includes 6mm and 8mm mounting bolts, center pulling bolt and a three leg frame that is appropriate for many applications. 35-9642 Crankcase Separator Tool 35-9637 Replacement 6mm and 8mm mounting bolts. Each

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