how to get too starter bolts on a softail

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How to Replacing Rear Main Seal 1

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

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The next day I woke up early and drank lots of coffee before going out to the garage. I knew I had two distinct problems confronting me. First, I would have to purchase an impact tool in order to loosen the six bolts holding the clutch together. Also, I would have to purchase at least three 8mm by 50mm bolts and nuts in order to prevent the clutch from exploding when the six bolts were unscrewed. For the third time in two days, I went to Sears and asked the salesman, (who I now I knew as Art,) where I could find an impact tool. He did not know what it was I was looking for, but he asked another employee and soon I had the tool as well as a 6mm Allen socket. Unfortunately, the Allen socket only came in 3/8″ drive, and the impact tool only came in 1/2″ drive. Thinking quickly, I purchased a 1/2″ to 3/8″ adapter, as well as a 3lb. dead- blow hammer. On the way home, I stopped at a Chief Auto Parts to buy the bolts I would need. The closest size they had were 8mm by 40mm, which was nearly 10mm too short. I was unsure whether the clutch cover bolts were coarse thread or fine thread, so I bought three of each, along with corresponding nuts. Finally, around 11 o’clock in the morning, I was back at the garage ready to work. I prepared the impact tool and placed the adapter and the Allen socket on it. I began to hammer on the end of the tool, trying to loosen each of the six bolts. None of them seemed to move, even though it seemed the impact tool was turning. Finally, I put the Allen socket on the breaker bar and found that all of the bolts had actually come loose. The tension from the clutch spring made it nearly impossible to see, however. I removed three of the bolts in a triangular pattern. Into these empty holes I threaded the fine- thread 40mm bolts with nuts attached and tightened them evenly. I was now able to remove the remaining Allen bolts. By slowly turning and loosening the nuts evenly on the 40mm bolts, I relieved the pressure from the clutch spring until the cover plate was free. I removed the cover plate, the clutch, the pressure plate, and finally the clutch spring. I had already marked each of the elements with Whiteout to insure that they would fit together the same way on installation. Apparently, this is essential as the flywheel could be rendered out-of-balance if the clutch components are not installed correctly. The flywheel itself was now exposed. I could see the five bolts that attached it to the crankshaft. I now used a tool I had fabricated. Although the manual describes two possible tools that can be fabricated, I found a piece of metal that resembled the tool and decided to use it. Unfortunately it was not strong enough and broke. I turned and looked at my workbench, and noticed a bracket which I had previously fabricated for mounting a mirror on my Vespa. The piece of steel was extremely strong and was already pre-drilled with correct-sized holes. It fit perfectly, so I placed it over the exposed bolt which protruded from the case, and placed the other end on one of the 40mm bolts, which I then bolted into the flywheel itself. I used the breaker bar again and removed the five bolts. The flywheel came loose after inserting two more 40mm bolts and tugging on them evenly

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KTM Starter Gear Maintenance Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 26-11-2010

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Checking the electric starter motor for wear -Check Bendix 1 for smooth operation and signs of wear. -Check the sprocket of the electric starter for wear and radial clearance. -Replace O-ring 2 of the electric starter. -Replace gasket 3 . -Check starter idler gear 4 for smooth operation and wear, check that the bearing bushings are seated firmly. Electric starter motor – checking for and adjusting play -Mount the electric starter and the starter idler gear. -Mount the tighten cover 5 . -Move starter idler gear 4 back and forth in the direction of rotation, the maximum play may not exceed half the width of a tooth. -If play is larger, cover 5 must be removed and as many shims 6 with a thickness of 0.10 mm as necessary must be added to eliminate all play. Then remove one shim again. -Check the play again; the maximum play may not exceed more than half of the width of a tooth. 1 2 3 4 5 4 5 6

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HARLEY-DAVIDSON SOFTAIL MODELS STEALTH AIR SHOCK MOUNTING

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 16-12-2010

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INSTALLATION 1. Remove the seat, inner fender, and ignition coil cover. Removing the rear wheel assembly is recommended for ease of installation, but not absolutely necessary. Remove the nut cup and outer grommet on each of the Works shocks. If you intend to leave the ride height at stock height for road riding, position the inner nut cup SHOC KS SHOC KS WORKS PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS, INC. 21045 Osborne St., Canoga Park, CA 91304 818.701.1010 fax 818.701.9043 STEALTH AIR SHOCK MOUNTING FOR HARLEY-DAVIDSON SOFTAIL MODELS 2000-ON #HDAIR-00 – 02/15/2006 WARNING! THESE SHOCKS MUST ONLY BE USED WITH STOCK SWINGARMS AND ON STOCK FRAMES WITH THE STOCK BOTTOMING BUMPERS ON THE CHASSIS TO LIMIT THE TRAVEL OF THE SHOCKS. AFTERMARKET SWINGARMS, OR MODIFIED SWINGARMS THAT DO NOT HAVE THE UPPER BRACE THAT ACTS AGAINST THE BOTTOMING BUMPERS CANNOT BE USED WITH THESE SHOCKS. INCREASING THE TRAVEL BY ELIMINATING THE BUMP STOPS OR A NON-STANDARD SWINGARM DESIGN WILL ALLOW THE TIRE TO MAKE CONTACT WITH THE FENDER OR OTHER CHASSIS COMPONENTS, AND CAN DAMAGE THE SHOCKS. 19. Lock Washers 20. Long Bolts (2) 21. Short Bolts (2) 13. Din Plug Screw 14. Din Plug Gasket 15. Cap 16. Eye Spacers (4) 17. Cotter Pins (2) 18. Switch Bracket 7. Compressor Bracket 8. Harness 9. Fuse Block 10. Din Connector 11. Solenoid 12. Hose 1. Damper Shock 2. Air Spring Shock 3. Nut Cup 4. Grommet 5. Hose 6. Compressor 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 15 16 17 14 18 19 20 21 Fig. 1–Nomenclature on the damper shock up against the ring nut. The shocks are now ready to install. 2. Place the motorcycle on a suitable frame stand allowing unrestricted access to the shocks. 3. Place a small screw jack under the swing arm to support the weight as well as allow you to position the swing arm correctly to line up the shock mounting bolts. Remove stock shocks. 4. Install the left side (damping) shock with the stock mounting bolt. Make sure that the bolt threads and threaded portions of the frame are free of oil and grease. Grease the shoulders of the bolts and use thread lock compounds on the threads. Discard the stock shock washers on both shocks. Do not use any washers- -including the stock washers on these bolts. Use only the spacers included. The 3/16-inch wide spacers are used on each side of the shock eye. Do not “double-up” the spacers together on either side of the shock eye, as this will cause misalignment of the shocks which can lead to premature wear or damage to the shocks. 5. Put the supplied spacers on each side of the eye. The shoulder of the bolt must protrude a small amount through the shock eyes in order to allow the shock to pivot freely. This is extremely important. With the shocks fully tightened, the spacers should be free to rotate with finger pressure. If the washer is used or a non-stock bolt is used, the bolts will work loose or break because the shocks are in a bind.

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1999-2001 DUCATI Monster INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 25-10-2010

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It is essential to use Blue Loc-tite on all nuts and bolts. Remove any other steering stabilizers. 2) Cover the tank with an old sweatshirt or protective device so you don’t scratch it. 3) General concept for this mount: The new key cover is the anchor point for the stabilizer, so it must be fitted correctly as per the instructions below. The base of the new key cover must sit flush all the way around to provide the support needed. The bolt lengths are critical, so be sure you read the instructions carefully so you know which bolts go in which spots! 4) Remove the (4) 8x85mm Allen bolts that hold your handlebars tight. There are plastic plugs in the tops of these bolts that must be removed before you can access the Allen head. Replace the stock top barclamp with the one provided in the kit. 5) Tighten the 4 bolts evenly so the gaps between upper and lower perches, front to back, are even. 6) Remove the (2) 6x12mm Allen bolts and the plastic key cover that covers your key switch. 7) Fit the new billet aluminum key cover over the key switch and be sure the new cover is sitting down flush all the way around on the frame. It needs to be touching the frame to function properly. We’ve machined this part to fit precisely on the bike but each bike can vary slightly due to machining variations from the Ducati Factory. The new key cover should center itself by locating on the 2 spacer/nuts underneath. You might need to loosen the 2 bolts on the underside of the frame to allow those spacer/nuts to find their centering point on our key cover. 8) Note: Your stock key switch itself has a casting knub near its base that could restrict our new cover from sitting all the way down flush. We’ve machined a clearance notch inside our part for this knub to fit into, but it is possible it could vary from bike to bike, which might require a bit more clearance filing. Be sure the key cover is sitting down flush against the frame. 9) We’ve machined the key cover to fit over a 20mm spacer nut / .805″. If for some reason the stock “spacer/nuts” are too tall, you may have to file them slightly to allow the Billet key cover to sit down flush and touch the frame. 10) Once the key switch cover is flush against the frame, all the way around it’s base, retighten the bolts that hold the spacer/nuts secure from the under side of the frame using Loc-tite. Reinstall the (2) 6x12mm stock key cover bolts to a maximum of 6-ft/lbs . The stock key cover bolts are designed to engage 6mm of thread in the spacer nut. Do not be tempted to use any longer bolts than 6x12mm or they can prematurely bottom out which will keep the key cover from tightening. Shorter than 6×12 or if the cover is not flush, makes it possible to damage the threads. Double check these key-cover bolts after your first ride, as they may loosen after initial movement from the damper

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Harley Davidson Softail Sideshots Exhaust System Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 20-12-2010

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STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL 1. On FLSTN, FLSTF, FLSTH and FLSTC loosen the right hand floor board mounting bolts to gain clearance for exhaust removal and installation. 2. Loosen the heat shield clamps on both front and rear exhaust pipes. 3. Loosen the crossover pipe clamp, located between the front and rear head pipe. (Not necessary on 2000- up models). 4. Remove the two mounting nuts from each head pipe, located at the cylinder head 5. Remove the bolts attaching the mufflers to the frame. 6. Remove the entire exhaust system and set it aside. 7. On pre 2000 models remove the lower mounting bar. 8. FLSTN, FLSTF and FXSTD models have an upper mounting bar that must be removed in addition to the lower bar. On pre 2000 models go to step #9, on 2000-up models go to step #10. 9. Remove the right passenger foot peg bolt. Position the motorcycle on the side stand with a floor jack under the swing arm pivot bolt on the right hand side. Raise the jack just enough to take the weight off the pivot bolt, remove the bolt and stock mounting bar. Reinstall the pivot bolt and torque to 120 -150 ft. lbs. Reinstall the passenger foot peg using the 1/2″ x 3″ Allen bolt and 1-5/8″ length spacer (supplied). 10. Using a #50 Torx driver, remove the three mounting bolts, and set the mounting bar aside. (Two of the bolts are visible, the third is accessed by removing the right hand passenger foot peg.) Replace the foot peg using the 3/8″ x 2 1/2″ Allen bolt and 3/4″ length spacer (supplied). 11. The bolts and spacers used in the above steps may also be used on all Softail models to space the right rear foot peg away from the exhaust. 12. Carefully remove the flanges and circlips from the stock exhaust system using snapring pliers (save for reuse). NOTE: If circlips look bent or twisted replace them with new circlips.

HARLEY DAVIDSON SPORSTER, DYNA AND SOFTAIL LICENSE / TURN SIGNAL RELOCATOR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the license plate. Remove the license plate mounting bracket from the fender. Remove the two screws from the tail light lens and pull the light outward, unplug the wire connector and set aside. Unplug the turn signal wire connectors from the tail light base and push them out thru the hole in the fender. Looking up underneath the rear fender remove the wires from the clips that secure them to the bottom side of the fender. Cut the wires 2″ from the plugs as shown in photo 1. 2. Unscrew the signal housings from their mounting stems while rotating the wires on the inside of the fender so as not to twist them off while unscrewing the signal from the stem. Remove the signals pushing the wires thru from the inside while pulling the signal outward. Remove the nuts from the backside of the fender that secure the stems and remove the stems. 3. Assemble the license/turn signal bracket, turn signals. Place the smaller reinforcing bracket inside the license plate bracket. Locate the two supplied 5/16″ X 1″ bolts with holes drilled thru the center and the two supplied 5/16″ long spacers. Place the bolts thru the brackets from the inside, threads facing outward followed by the spacers. Thread the wires of the signals thru the bolts and thread the bolts into the signals and snug the bolts. 4. Mounting the LED lights a. Locate the supplied LED tail/brake lights. NOTE: this license plate holder is designed for the new U.S. standardized 7″ wide license plate. If you have an old style wider plate call us at the phone number below and we will send you a separate set of chrome brackets to work with your larger plate at no charge. b. Install the lights as shown in photos 2 & 3. Thread the wires of the LED lights thru the lower holes in the license bracket, peel the adhesive backing and press them firmly in place. Cut the wires off at about 18″ long. c. Install the license plate bracket with signals and LED lights onto the rear fender as shown in photos 2 & 3. Place the two supplied 1/4″ X 1″ flat head screws thru the license plate mounting block. Notice that the thicker half of the mounting block goes toward the top of the fender. d. Next route all the wires from the right turn signal and LED into the slot or notch on the backside of the mounting block followed by the rubber mounting gasket. Install the two nuts from the underside of the fender (Removed from the original license bracket.) onto the two flat head screws and snug them being sure the wires are all in the slot of the mounting block. Run all of the signal and LED wires thru the hole in the fender to the left of the mounting block. e. Install the license plate assembly onto the mounting block using the two supplied 1/4″ X 1/2″ flat head screws. Check the slack from all the wires and again be sure the wires are not pinched between the mounting block and the fender. Tighten all four flat head screws securely. Align the turn signals and tighten their mounting bolts securely.

Sherco Engine Engine Removal and Case Splitting Manual

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Filed Under (Sherco) by admin on 20-04-2011

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Engine Removal and Case Splitting Preparation 1. Wash the bike and engine thoroughly. 2. Drain transmission oil by removing drain bolt and copper washer with 5mm Allen. 3. Drain coolant by removing 3 bolts of water pump cover and lifting off engine side case.4. Remove: a. rear fender- two bolts plus one long with washer using 4mm Allen b. fuel tank hose from petcock c. fuel tank- one short bolt and washer using 4mm Allen d. chain master link and chain from front sprocket e. kick starter- one large button head bolt and washer f. rear brake- one bolt/washer using 13mm wrench g. rear brake master cylinder- 2 button head bolts h. gear shifter- one bolt i. flywheel cover – 3 bolts j. clutch slave cylinder- two button head bolts using 4mm Allen k. clutch actuating rod by pulling it out of the case l. airbox three 4mm Allen bolts and loosening Phillips head carb hose clamp m. carburetor cap/slide assembly n. carburetor by loosening Phillips head manifold hose clamp o. spark plug cap p. spark plug q. header pipe 2 bolts into cylinder head r. silencer- 3 bolts (one with washer and nut using 10mm wrench) s. cylinder head coolant hose clamp and hose t. rear shock upper bolt u. radiator plastic cover bolt, then lever up the radiator with screwdriver until the radiator “legs” pop out of frame retaining holes 5. Remove flywheel using flywheel puller tool, taking care not to lose the small Woodruff
key by placing it inside of the magnetic flywheel for safe storage. 6. Remove ignition (3 bolts) and slide rubber grommet and ignition wiring assembly out of the case and out of the way, taking special note of the ignition timing marks. 7. Remove front sprocket and 2 retaining circlips. 8. Remove clutch side case and its 10 bolts using 5mm Allen, being careful not to lose to lose the 2 aluminum alignment pins (dowel pins). Insert the dowel pins into their holes within the Right Crankcase

How to Replace your starter : 99 Corolla VE

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 17-06-2011

Use a 10mm ratchet attachment to remove the battery from the vehicle. Negative terminal first, then positive. Be careful not to cause an arc between the two terminals as intense pain will result.
Remove the plastic plate that the battery sits in. 2. Using the 10mm attachment again, remove the 6 bolts that hold the passenger side front splash guard from underneath the front bumper. 3. From underneath the vehicle, locate the oil filter. Look above oil filter and you will see the starter. Locate the bottom 14 mm bolt that attaches the lower portion of the starter to the engine. The bolt drives from left to right. The starter is mounted toward the front of the vehicle and underneath the intake manifold. Still cant find it?
Follow the cable that leads from the positive battery terminal. It ends at the starter. Not sure you have the right bolt? Stick your 14mm attachment on it with your fingers and see if it fits on properly

HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL Longshot Exhaust System REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 18-12-2010

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the front heat shield over the head pipe and feed the tail end of the hose clamps into the clips. Be sure that each hose clamp is engaged with both clips. Give the screw three to four turns, leaving heat shield loose on the head pipe. Repeat this step with the rear heat shield. Note: The screw end of the hose clamp should be accessible, but not visible when pipe is mounted on the bike. 4. Install the front head pipe using the stock nuts, do not tighten at this time. 5. Install the rear head pipe using the stock nuts, do not tighten at this time. 6. Install the mounting bracket (stamped 304) to the frame, by aligning the two 3/8″ holes in bracket with the two holes in the frame below the right rear footrest, using the two 3/8″-16 x 3/4″ flange head bolts (supplied), do not tighten at this time (Refer to fig.1). 7. Install one muffler clamp over the front (notched end) of each muffler. 8. Slip one muffler onto the rear head pipe. Slide one dog bone shaped nut plate under the bracket that is welded to the backside of the muffler and attach the muffler to the mounting bracket using two of the 5/16″ flange head bolts (supplied), but leave them loose at this time. 9. Repeat step #9 with the front muffler. 10. Adjust the heat shields and mufflers so they are flush where the the two parts meet each other (Refer to figure 2). 11. Align the mufflers so they are parallel when viewing from the right side of the bike, and tighten the 5/16″ flange bolts on the back side of both mufflers. 12. Tighten the two 3/8″ bolts that attach the mounting bracket to the frame. 13. Tighten the two nuts on both the front and rear head pipe flanges. 14. Tighten the two muffler clamps. 15. Rotate the hose clamps on both heat shields so they are accessible with a screw driver and tighten them. 16. Retighten floor board mounting bolts on models so equipped. 17. Be sure to tighten all hardware before starting your motorcycle

HARLEY DAVIDSON HERITAGE SOFTAIL WIND DEFLECTORS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 05-03-2011

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This kit is designed for 1986 and later FLSTC, FLST, FLSTF and FLSTN model motorcycles equipped with a windshield and/or passing lamps. If your FLST, FLSTC, FLSTF or FLSTN is equipped with a windshield but not a passing lamp assembly, you will need two washers 5/16 x 1 x 1/8 in. (HD Part Number 6645). These washers will be used as spacers for the bottom of the deflector. This kit is also designed to fit with accessory five gallon Fat Bob Gas Tanks. Installation 1. See Figures 1 and 2. On Rigid Mount Windshields, remove the bolts (1), lockwashers (2), and flat washers (3) securing one side of the windshield support bracket. Save all hardware for reinstallation. NOTE On Rigid Mount Windshields, be sure the large spacer (4) between the tip of the windshield support bracket and the fork stays in position. On Detachable Windshields, remove the bolts (1) and flat washers (2) securing one side of the windshield support bracket. Save all hardware for reinstallation. 2. Place the wind deflector in position and install the hardware removed in Step 1. Do not tighten the bolt at this time. NOTE On Rigid Mount Windshields, be sure you install the large spacer between the windshield support bracket and the fork. NOTE On 2000 and later models, be sure the wind deflector is outside of the windshield docking points. 3. Position the wind deflector parallel with the fork leg and install the other flat washers, lockwashers and bolts. Do not tighten the bolts at this time. NOTE If you have a motorcycle equipped with a windshield, but no passing lamps assembly, use the washer (6645) to space the deflector away from the fork leg. 4. Position the wind deflector so it does not touch the bottom of the windshield or the turn signal. The deflector bolt holes are slotted for th is purpose. 5. When the deflector is correctly positioned, tighten the bolts to 17 ft-lbs (23 Nm). 6. Repeat steps 1-5 for the opposite side of the vehicle

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