how to install a centerstand on a bmw k1300s

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HARLEY DAVIDSON FRONT THUNDERSTAR WHEELS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Remove existing front wheel assembly. Save axle, axle nut, brake disc, and wheel spacers for kit installation. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. For FLSTC and FLSTN Models: Discard moon-style hub cap. -J04065 1 of 8 For FXSTD Models: Discard the tapered r ight side wheel spacer. Do not re-use brake disc/rotor screws. Re-using these screws can result in torque loss and damage to brake components. (00319c) NOTE • For Kits 43573-08, 43575-08, 43703-08, 43978-07, 43771- 07, 43609-07, 44323-07, 44282-07, 44322-07, 43975-07, 43602-07 and 43773-07 install short valve stem (43157- 83A) included in the installation kit. • For Kits 40943-09, 40966-09 and 40996-09 install long valve stem (43206-01) included in the installation kit. 2. See Figure 2. Install valve stem assembly (L, M or N) on wheel. Refer to TIRES in service manual. 3. Assemble wheel installation kit components and brake disc(s) to wheel, using the appropriate service parts table. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in Service Manual. NOTES Install the primary bearing first using appropriate service manual and WHEEL BEARING REMOVER/INSTALLER. For Kits 43573-08, 43575-08, 43703-08, 43978-07, 43771-07, 43609-07, 40943-09, 40966-09 and 40996-09: • The left side of the wheel has a machined groove (item 5, Figure 2) in the hub face and/or DOT markings to identify it as the brake disc and primary bearing side. • Install the wheel so that the valve stem is on the right side of the motorcycle. For Kits 44323-07, 44322-07 and 44282-07: • Install the wheel so that the hub markings are on the left side of the motorcycle. The left side of the wheel has a machined groove (item 5, Figure 2) in the hub face and hub markings to identify it as the primary bearing side. • These kits include one or two hub plates (43985-00) to install between the brake disc and the wheel and a chrome hub cap (43986-00) to install on the wheel opposite the brake disc side. Hub covers must be installed to prevent water intrusion, which could cause an imbalance condition. Dual brake disc models: Install one stainless steel hub plate (3) between each brake disc and wheel hub. Discard chrome hub cap (2). Install brake discs according to service manual procedures. Single brake disc models: Install one stainless steel hub plate (3) between the brake disc and wheel hub. Install the brake disc according to service manual procedures. Install the chrome hub cap (2) on the side opposite the brake disc. Discard extra stainless steel hub plate (3). • The gross axle weight ratings is unaffected by the installation of this wheel on a vehicle equipped with a 21-inch wheel. For Kits 43975-07, 43773-07, and 43602-07: • The wheel has a machined groove (item 5, Figure 2) in the hub face to identify the right side. • For 2007 and later FX Softail Models and 2008 and later FXDWG: The left side of the wheel is the primary bearing side. For all other models the right side of the wheel is the primary bearing side. • For Kit 43602-07: An arrow is engraved into the right side hub to indicate the direction of rotation. • For Kits 43975-07 and 43773-07: An arrow is cast between the spokes on the right side to indicate the direction of rotation. • These kits include one or two hub plates (43985-00) to install between the brake disc and the wheel and a chrome hub cap (43986-00) to install on the wheel opposite the brake-disc side. Hub covers must be installed to prevent water intrusion, which could cause an imbalance condition. Dual brake disc models: Install one stainless steel hub plate (3) between each brake disc and wheel hub. Discard chrome hub cap (2). Install brake discs according to service manual procedures. Single brake disc models: Install one stainless steel hub plate (3) between the brake disc and wheel hub. Install the brake disc according to service manual procedures. Install the chrome hub cap (2) on the side opposite the brake disc. Discard extra stainless steel hub plate (3). 4. Install wheel assembly parts from the appropriate Service Parts table for this fitment and stock brake disc. Discard parts from the installation kit that are not required. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in Service Manual. 5. For FLSTC and FLSTN Models: Install wheel kit and right side wheel spacer provided in installation kit. For FXSTD Models: Install wheel kit, stock left wheel spacer and right side wheel spacer from installation kit in place of the tapered right side wheel spacer discarded in Step 1. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. For FXSTS Models: Install the left side wheel spacer provided in the kit between the stock left wheel spacer and the left fork. All other models: Install wheel spacers previously removed. 6. Install front wheel (1), stock axle and stock axle nut. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual

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YAMAHA ROYAL STAR VENTURE CENTERSTAND REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 31-12-2011

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Stand Installation. Locate the four mounting holes on the frame that correspond with the holes in the centerstand. Slide the front of the centerstand up into the frame and align the large bolt holes with those in the frame. Install the (2) 7/16″ x 1″ bolts with washers thru the frame and centerstand. Install the (2) 7/16″ nuts and make finger tight. (on California models the fuel tank vent canister must be removed and the hoses bypassed see note below) Pivot the rear of the centerstand up to align the (2) smaller holes in the stand with those in the frame. Insert a phillips screwdriver into one of the (2) remaining mounting holes and pry the other hole into alignment. Install one of the ¼” x ¾” bolt with a washer from the top down thru the frame and centerstand. Install the lock nut finger tight. Remove the screwdriver and install the remaining ¼”x¾” bolt washer and nut. Tighten the ¼ ” bolts securely 10-12 ft. lbs., then tighten the 7/16″ bolts securely 20-24 ft. lbs. 2. Stop Bumper Installation. Next install the centerstand-stop bumper and bracket onto the frame. Locate the bolt “A” in photo #1. Notice there is another 10 mm bolt just below it. Remove the lower bolt. Attach the bumper bracket to this hole using the longer bolt and washer supplied. The leg of the bracket with the bumper should face inward towards the center of the motorcycle. Adjust the height of the bracket to keep the pedal arm 3/8″ to ½” from the bottom of the exhaust pipe. Tighten securely. 3. Emissions Valve Relocation. You will notice that the right leg of the stand near the foot comes in contact with the emissions valve. The valve needs to be moved outward or to the right as you are sitting on the motorcycle approximately ¾”. This is done as follows: Remove the (2) 10 mm bolts holding the emission valve and bracket to the frame. See photo #2. With the hoses still attached pull the valve down to gain access to the (3) allen screws. Remove the (3) allen screws and (2) nuts holding the bracket to the valve, turn the bracket over and re-assemble the valve onto the bracket as shown in photo #3. Re-install the valve onto the frame. You may need to rotate the hose clamp clips out of the way and/or bend the entire valve bracket assembly outward slightly to gain clearance between the centerstand leg and foot. 4. Using Your New Centerstand. To put the motorcycle up onto the centerstand, hold the left handle bar and saddlebag guard rail. Using the ball of your right foot, lower the stand to the ground. Rock the motorcycle from side to side slightly until you feel both feet of the stand touching the ground. Now, put all of your weight on to the centerstand pedal (stand on it). Pull up and back on the grab rail using a rocking motion to rock the motorcycle up on to the stand. Remember it is a matter of using your body weight and leverage not lifting! 5. Getting the Bike Down off the Centerstand. Holding the left handle bar and saddlebag guardrail, firmly rock the motorcycle off the centerstand. You can also rock it off while sitting on the motorcycle.

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1994 – 2004 BMW Motorcycle History

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-11-2010

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1994 brought many changes to BMW, most obviously by the introduction of the “R259″ series twins and the elimination of the old standby “Airhead” twins that had been BMW’s trademark for seven decades. While it is interesting to look at all the technologies introduced during the 1994 to 2004 time block, it is also exciting to look into what was going on as far as changes in BMW more esoteric than measurable. In this author’s opinion there were unspoken changes in BMW’s mindset and philosophy. BMW had forged it’s reputation for long lasting, simple machines built to the highest standards and quality; aimed at a dwindling, older (OK, Jeff, more mature) market of enthusiastic but eccentric riders. They built motorcycles that were easy for the owners to maintain and modify to fit their specific wants. BMW had always built their bikes their way; often it seemed like they did so in spite of what the younger and upwardly mobile riders were looking for. By 1994, the airhead was simply not a sellable motorcycle; the buying market was younger and wanted performance in line with what the Japanese products offered at much lower prices. The K 75/100 series that were so far ahead of their time in 1984 when they were introduced were also showing their age. No doubt, BMW knew this was coming many years before the new “Oil Head” was introduced. They knew that the riding community had reduced its mean age substantially. The younger riders had money to spend on a bike that had to be BMW, yet had to be totally more modern both in performance and in perception than what BMW had been selling. Thus, the R259 was born. The Birth of the R259 Twins The new BMW corporate mindset, if you will, was no longer concerned with selling motorcycles that would be handed down from one generation to the next, nor was BMW concerned about ease of maintenance with standard hand tools. Although the new bikes were still able to outlast the riders, the concern for building units to last a quarter-million miles was not so much in the forefront of the design. The new models would have to be powerful, fast, handle better than anything on the road; they would need to offer a standard of technology that the Japanese would never build. They should be complex pieces of rolling art. Most obvious, though, was that they would build a product aimed at an entirely new market of riders who would likely not be interested in maintaining the bikes themselves or really understanding the nuances of design. The new customers BMW was looking for were serious riders who were more interested in the fun and excitement of riding than they were in savoring the history of the older designs

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HONDA GL1100 AM/FM RADIO INSTALLATION MANUAL/ WIRING DIAGRAM

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 22-04-2011

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INSTALLATION ■ Outline Procedures This section gives general information needed for mounting the individual radio components on and in the fairing. A) Fairing 1) Install radio on fairing before mounting fairing on motorcycle. (Remove fairing from your motorcycle when already mounted). 2) Remove fairing parts. 3) Drill unit mount holes. 4) Install six wire clips. 5) Install windshield on fairing before install- ing speakers. 6) Install radio indicator I on indicator panel II , then install indicator panel on fairing. 7) Install speakers III. 8) Install nutplate IV. 9) Install Power Amplifier in fairing. 10) Install radio funer VI. 11) Install the radio controller VII. 12) Install controller base panel VIII 13) Install radio switch sub-wire. 14) Connect adapter harness and wires inside fairing by working through left turn signal lens hole. B) Motorcycle frame and handlebar 1) Remove travel trunk and seat. Unscrew four shelter bolts (M6, one on each side at front and rear) to route antenna feeder. 2) Install antenna mount and antenna IX. 3) Route antenna feeder along the frame tube. 4) Install radio switch X on left handlebar lever bracket and route the wires. 3 of 11 Page 4 C) Fairing instllation 1) Install fairing on motorcycle. 2) Connect motorcycle wire harness 9-P coupler to fairing wire 9-P coupler. 3) Connect radio switch wire to switch sub- wire.4) Connect antenna feeder. 5) Confirm that radio operates properly. Reinstall parts removed in step 2 or (A) and in step 1 of (B). REWORKING ■ Remove Fairing and Fairing Parts (Fig.10) 1) Install radio on fairing before mounting fairing on motorcycle. (Remove fairing from your motorcycle when already mounted). 2) Remove right and left fairing pockets, right and left turn signal lenses, right and left nutplates, left hole cover and indi- cator base panel from fairing. (Fig.10) Fig. 10 LEI-1 NU I PLATE 4 of 11■ Reworking on Fairing — Speaker mounting holes- 1) Remove 18 mm grommet. 2) Lightly roll template so that it will follow contour of fairing snugly. 3) Position template on fairing with its upper and outer edges aligned with those offairing as indicated by arrows. 4) Attach template to fairing using adhesive tape where shown. 5) Punch mark centers of four holes with a
drift and hammer. 6) Drill 6 mm holes through marked centers. To obtain a more balanced response with richer, deeper bases, drill two 50 mm holes in the fairing so as to link the speaker box with the inside of the fairing. Fig. 11-1
—Power amplifier mounting holes- 7) Drill two 5.5 mm holes through concaves in fairing. Fig. 11-2 RIGHT HAND SHOWN, LEFT SIMILAR ADHESIVE TAPE

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HONDA 1100 ACE, AERO AND SABRE CENTERSTAND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-12-2010

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Relocation of Regulator. Laying under the right side of the motorcycle, locate the voltage regulator. (finned aluminum box-approximately 3″x 4″) Note: See photo #1 – regulator already relocated. Remove the (2) 10 mm bolts attaching the regulator to the frame. Attach the bracket supplied to the regulator as shown. Using the original bolts, attach the regulator and bracket assembly to the frame as shown in photo #1 using the two 10 mm bolts supplied. Clamping Centerstand to Frame . Notice the centerstand is shipped with (2) white plastic washers. Note: See photo #2-A These are in place to overcome the spring tension or lock the stand in place and allow you to pivot the lower stand down partially to make installation easier. Pivot the upper stand about half way from the retracted to the extended (down) position. Note: This will require some force. If the stand will not stay in the position you can further tighten the two 9/16″ pivot nuts. Remove the bolts from the four band clamps. Wrap the (2) small clamps around the small upper frame tube and start the bolts so that the bolt will be at the bottom of the tube and the wrench head facing towards the rear of the motorcycle. Note: See photo #2. Center the stand on the frame from side to side so as to gain even clearance between the feet on the centerstand and the rear tire when the stand is in the retracted position. Holding the larger cradle up against the frame, tighten the (2) small clamps enough to hold the centerstand in place. Install one of the large clamps as shown in photo #3-A. Install the 2nd large clamp as shown in photo #2-C. Again retract the stand and check that the feet have even amounts of space from the side of the rear tire. Tighten the flour clamps securely 5-7 ft. lbs. Next remove the (2) 9/16″ pivot nuts and the white plastic washers as shown in photo #2-A. Re-install and tighten the 9/16″ pivot nuts securely 8-12 ft lbs. With the stand in the retracted position-adjust the stop bolt and lock nut, see photo #3-B, so that the stand is parallel with the ground and does not come in contact with any parts of the motorcycle. Using your new centerstand . To put the motorcycle up onto the centerstand, hold the left handle bar and saddlebag guard rail or grab under the bottom of the seat. Using the ball of your right foot, lower the stand to the ground. Rock the motorcycle from side to side slightly until you feel both feet of the stand touching the ground. Now put all of your weight onto the centerstand pedal (stand on it). Pull up and back on the grab rail or seat using a rocking motion to rock the motorcycle up onto the stand. Remember it is a matter of using your body weight and leverage not lifting!

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1981-1983 Yamaha Virago 750 & 920 Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 11-02-2012

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Start by loosening the rear cylinder down tube bolt located on the top of the old mufflers center collector in front of the rear tire. 2. Remove both of the front cylinder exhaust pipe head nuts and set them to the side for reuse with the MAC exhaust system. 3. Remove the right side passenger’s foot peg. Set the foot peg aside as you will need to reinstall it. 4. Remove the left side passenger’s foot peg. Set this foot peg aside as it will also need to be reinstalled. Note: When you remove this bolt the entire exhaust system will be loose and may fall. You will need to support the old exhaust at this point to keep from injuring yourself. Gently move the old exhaust system side to side to remove it from the rear cylinder down tube. Once the exhaust system is loose from the down tube remove the system from under the Virago. 5. Remove the bolt holding the rear brake pedal in place and remove the brake pedal from the motorcycle. Note: Set both the bolt and the pedal aside for reinstallation. 6. Next loosen the nut on the drivers right foot peg, 1 full turn to start with. Then remove the rear nut on the same foot peg. (Note: The bolt that this nut is on goes completely through the motorcycle. This is the center stand mounting bolt.) Now remove the front nut and set both aside for reuse with the MAC system. 7. Install the center stand stop bracket under the left passenger foot peg. Install this bracket with the 90° bend facing down and towards the rear tire. (Note: Center stand sop bracket in provided in the hardware kit and is approx. 5″ long with a 90° bend in it.) Adjust the bracket by one of the large bolts through the foot peg then through the bracket and then install it into the stock location. Put on one of the washers and a nut and snug up the nut. Lower the center stand until the center stand come in to contact with the bottom of the bracket. Tighten the nut until it will hold the bracket securely. 8. Install the rear down tube clamp onto the rear muffler and install the medium sized nut/bolt/washer onto the clamp just finger tight. 9. Install the (2) small bolts into the channel bracket on the rear muffler. Install the rear mounting bracket onto the two bolts and then install the washers and nuts onto each. Tighten the (2) nuts only slight amount so that you can slide the bracket front to rear to insure that when you install the bracket you position it properly. 10. Slide the rear pipe onto the rear down tube about ¼”to ¾” past the pre-cut slots on the rear muffler pipe. Slightly snug the clamp making sure that the position of the bolt and nut will not interfere with any moving parts. The final position of this bolt can hit the tire if it is not positioned properly. 11. Install the other large bolt into the right passenger and then through the top hole in the rear muffler mounting bracket. Insert the bolt into the stock location and install the washer and the nut. 12. Align the rear muffler and you can then tighten the nuts on the rear muffler mounting bracket, the cylinder down tube and the right side passenger foot peg.
13. Install the front muffler on the rear most mounting bolt of the drivers foot peg and put the stock nut back onto the bolt. Hand tighten the bolt only at this time. Note: Install the nut at this time is only to support the muffler and to insure that the pipe does not fall on the ground while you complete the next step. 14. Lift the front head pipe into position and start the stock nuts onto the studs. It is strongly recommended that you install new exhaust gasket at this time. Note: The new exhaust gaskets are not included in the kit but are available at your local Yamaha Dealer. After gaskets are installed hand tighten the front head pipe. 15. Remove the nut from the drivers foot peg bolt and reinstall the drivers foot peg. Note: Hand tighten only at this time. 16. Finish tightening the nuts on the front head pipes. (Install these nuts according to Yamaha’s Factory specifications.) Once the nuts are tightened on the head pipe you can then tighten the drivers foot peg nuts. 17. Reinstall the rear brake pedal and tighten the bolt that holds it on to factory specifications. 18. Check all of the bolts that you have installed of removed to insure that they are tight. 19. Start the motorcycle and check for any leaks. 20. You are finished with your new MAC Exhaust System.

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Type 11 Honda Motorcycle Audio system installation

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 02-11-2011

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This section gives general information needed for mounting the individual radio components on and in the fairing.
A) Fairing 1) Install radio on fairing before mounting fairing on motorcycle. (Remove fairing from your motorcycle when already mounted). 2) Remove fairing parts.3) Drill unit mount holes. 4) Install six wire clips. 5) Install windshield on fairing before install- ing speakers. 6) Install radio indicator I on indicator panel II , then install indicator panel on fairing.
7) Install speakers III. 8) Install nutplate IV. 9) Install Power Amplifier in fairing. 10) Install radio funer VI. 11) Install the radio controller VII. 12) Install controller base panel VIII 13) Install radio switch sub-wire. 14) Connect adapter harness and wires inside fairing by working through left turn signal lens hole. B) Motorcycle frame and handlebar 1) Remove travel trunk and seat. Unscrew four shelter bolts (M6, one on each side at front and rear) to route antenna feeder. 2) Install antenna mount and antenna IX. 3) Route antenna feeder along the frame tube. 4) Install radio switch X on left handlebar lever bracket and route the wire

Integral ABS and ASC – new Riding Dynamic Control Systems for BMW Motorcycles

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010

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Entering its next generation, BMW Motorrad Integral ABS is taking a quantum leap in the process of evolution, advancing from a stand-alone solution acting only on the brakes into a fully networked all-round system. Offering the new generation of Integral ABS, BMW Motorrad provides the foundation for additional dynamic riding control systems with a reduction in technical requirements and features. And following the customer’s wishes, this new generation also opens up the option in future for further-reaching rider assistance functions. The first step in this direction is BMW Motorrad ASC Automatic Stability Control available as of 2007. This system serving to control drive spin on a production motorcycles is being introduced as an optional extra on the touring models in the BMW K and Boxer Series. Once again, therefore, BMW is acting as the pioneer in the introduction of advanced safety technologies on the motorcycle. This further enhances the leadership which BMW Motorrad has shown in the area of active safety for more than 15 years. Choosing the right development partner for both systems, BMW Motorrad obviously had to focus on that partner’s specific competence in control technology and the networking of functions within the vehicle. In recent years, major car suppliers have become aware of the technical challenges presented by the motorcycle with its specific riding dynamics and the growing potential for motorcycle control systems in the market. The decisive point in preselection of the development partner was the willingness and ability to develop specialised solutions suitable for use on BMW motorcycles. So taking this into account, joint development of the new generation of ABS brake technology started together with Continental-Teves in early 2003. Integral ABS. BMW Motorrad’s new Integral ABS technology has been developed separately from the previous system and the entire layout of the system has been newly conceived from the ground up. Capitalising on progress in technology in both hydraulics and electronics, the development engineers have succeeded in simplifying the architecture of the system while at the same time enhancing its functions to an even higher standard. The result is supreme stopping power and very short stopping distances even without electrical power assistance on the brakes.

2006-up Harley-Davidson Single Bore Induction System Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Remove the stock fuel induction system, including the manifold and disconnecting all wire connections. It is up to the technician as to whether the gas tank should be removed or just raised up in the rear. Picture 1 2- You will need to disassemble the stock induction system to remove the pre-listed parts for re-use. 3- Verify the new manifold size is appropriate for your motorcycle by sliding it in place. Picture 2 Picture 3 4 5- Slide the MAP sensor in place, being sure not to pinch the orange rubber seal—some clean engine oil may make this easier. Install the cable guide and verify it is aligned with the throttle cable actuator. Once alignment is satisfactory, apply Loctite® 222 to the 10-24 x 1/4″ screws and tighten to 18-22 in-lbs. 4- Install the new O-ring into the throttle body. A light film of clean engine oil can be used to help hold the O-ring in place. Align the manifold to the throttle body, use purple 222 Loctite® on the 10-24 x 1″ socket-head assembly screws (with flat washers) and tighten them to 35-40 in-lbs. 6- Using the new S&S® supplied gasket, slide the S&S supplied intake air temperature (IAT) sensor in place. Use Loctite 222 on the T10 Torx button head M3 x .5 x 10mm screws and tighten to 6-8 in-lbs. Picture 4 Picture 5 Picture 6 5 7- For the stock throttle position sensor attach the “C” shaped spacer to the end of the throttle shaft, put a 4mm flat washer on each T20 Torx button head M4 x .7 x 12mm screw, apply some Loctite® 222 and torque screws to 18-23 in-lbs. 8- Install the new O-ring on the IAC motor. Lubricate the OD of the O-ring with a light film of clean engine oil. Put a 4mm flat washer on each T20 Torx button head M4 x .7 x 12mm screw, coat the threads with Loctite 222. Install the IAC motor and tighten the screws to 18-23 in-lbs. 9- Partially install the fuel injectors in the fuel rail. Be sure to orient the black O-rings to the rail and align the clocking tabs with their holes. It may be helpful to lubricate the O-rings with clean engine oil. See Picture 9. NOTE : These are special O-rings that seal pressurized gasoline. If you see one with damage or an abrasion—replace it immediately. Picture 7 Picture 8 Picture 9 6 10- Connect the Injectors to the manifold with a light squeezing action. Lubricate the O-rings with clean engine oil. Once in place, use Loctite® 222 on the threads of two 8-32 x 5/8″ slotted panhead screws and tighten to 15-20 in-lbs. 11- Install the backing washer and O-ring on the fuel supply tube. Lubricate the O-ring with clean engine oil. When the tube is in place, position the Y-shaped clip on the fuel rail and tighten the Loctite 222 coated T20 Torx button head M4 x 7 x 12mm screw to 18-23 in-lbs – Gently push the injectors downward toward the manifold to increase clearance for connecting the wire connectors. Cut the existing injector connectors from the motorcycle harness. Slide the sleeveing onto the injector harness. Slide heat shrink tubing on to each wire of the injector harness wires. Crimp the butt splices to the motorcycle harness. Move the heat shrinks over the splices and shrink with a heat gun. Slide the sleeve into place. Picture 10 Picture 11a Picture 11b Picture 12 Picture 12a 7 13- Put the stock manifold flanges on the manifold. YOU MUST USE THE S&S® RUBBER GASKETS ON THEM. Be sure to orient the tapered end towards the manifold and the flat end to the heads. 14- Hold the manifold up in its basic mounting position and connect all of the wiring harness connectors at this time. Install the manifold using the stock mounting flange bolts (from the primary side of the motorcycle) coated with Loctite® 242 and the new S&S cam side screws (1/4″ socket head, 5/16-18 x 3/4″). If a screw longer than 3/4″ is used, damage to the heads will result. Lightly snug all four manifold mounting bolts but DO NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME. Connect the throttle cables and cruise control bracket (if applicable) at this time. NOTE: The Harley-Davidson® service manual for your model motorcycle will be helpful during this step. 15- Install the breather system now. On 4.00-inch bore or smaller engines the breather uses banjo fittings with hollow bolts and connects across the heads to the intake with a T-hose. This hose will need to be trimmed and have spring clamps attached as shown in photo. Torque the hollow bolts to 10-12 ft-lbs. On 41/8-inch bore or larger engines, install the sharp bent hose on the rear head and install the check valve with the white end towards the head. Mount the other hose on the black end of the check valve and connect it to the throttle body using spring clamps to secure the connections. Picture 13 Picture 14 Picture 15 8 16- Once the breathers are secure, install the fuel line per the factory service manual you are working with. Connect the battery and verify the fuel pump turns on to pressurize the system and there are no gas leaks, but DO NOT START THE ENGINE. At this time, PC software may also be used to verify sensor readings and adjust the throttle position sensor voltage if necessary. 17- Install two 242 Loctite® coated pipe plugs (included in kit) in the air cleaner backplate as shown in Picture 16. Torque to 35-45 in-lbs. Also, two pan screws coated with Loctite® 222 must be installed in the backplate in place of the enrichment device. See Picture 16a. Torque them to 12-18 in-lbs. Failure to install these screws could allow dirt and debris into the intake system. 18- Use a new gasket on the backplate and put it in place noting the number of shims required. Once you select the appropriate shims (included) mount the backing plate to the engine but DO NOT INSTALL THE SCREWS YET

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Harley Davidson Road Rod Saddle Bag System Kit INSTALLATION Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 16-04-2012

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Use locktite on all fasteners!! 2. Put bike on lift and place jack under frame. Raise bike to lift rear wheel. 3. If swing arm pivot shaft is drilled and tapped on each end, they need to be redrilled and tapped to 3/8-16 to a depth of _” deep. If you are unable to drill & tap your swing arm pivot shaft, you can purchase one from Cycle Visions (part #CV6121), See Harley Davidson® V-Rod® Service Manual Section 2, Page 2.89 for removal and installation instructions. 4. Remove seat, passenger seat, turn signal module, rear fender cover, turn signal license plate assembly, and rear foot peg assemblies. NOTE: Our bag system will not work with stock exhaust system… we recommend the 2-into-1 Supertrap, or you may use any exhaust system that is lower than the rear axle bolt. 5. Remove the two upper shock bolts. Relocate the shock spacer from the right side to the left side, and use the new spacer supplied on the right side. 6. Install front bag mount between frame and spacer (see Figure 1), reinstall shock bolts and torque to 31-50 lbs. 7. Install lower bag support frame to swing arm pivot shaft using the 3/8″ bolt through rear foot peg clevis and cover (see in Figure 2). NOTE: There is a right and left covers and bag support, install accordingly. Torque to 35 foot lbs. 8. Install rear fender front mounting tabs using 8mm 1.25 x _ and flat washers (supplied in kit) (see Figure 3). 9. Install upright saddlebag support brackets to the lower bag mount assembly and lower fender extension crossover mount. (see Figure 4). Torque to 25 lbs. NOTE: Install crossover mount with gusset facing down. 10. Remove license plate light from your rear turn signal bracket license plate assembly. Install license plate light on our license plate light bracket (see Figure 5). 11. Install the license plate bracket on the inside of the rear fender extension using the top holes of the license plate frame (see Figure 6 & 7). 12. Install fender washers on the inside of the fender extension (see Figure 8). 13. Install upper fender bracket to rear fender extension with a _-20 bolt supplied in kit (see Figure 9). 14. Install rear fender extension with chrome button fitted bolts. (see Figure 10 & 11). 15. To check alignment and fit of rear fender extension reinstall original rear fender. Once you have everything lined up and fitted, remove original rear fender, drill & tap (2) two 5/16 x 18 holes in rear fender support bracket (see Figure 12). 16. Install Harley Davidson® Part #70909-95 and 47449-97 bracket and receptacle on front and rear bag supports (see Figure 13 & 14). 17. Install Harley Davidson® Part #47449-97 bracket with receptable (see Figure 14). Make sure the bolts come from the inside out. This bracket is adjustable for location.

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