Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-11-2010
Remove existing front wheel assembly. Save axle, axle nut, brake disc, and wheel spacers for kit installation. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. For FLSTC and FLSTN Models: Discard moon-style hub cap. -J04065 1 of 8 For FXSTD Models: Discard the tapered r ight side wheel spacer. Do not re-use brake disc/rotor screws. Re-using these screws can result in torque loss and damage to brake components. (00319c) NOTE • For Kits 43573-08, 43575-08, 43703-08, 43978-07, 43771- 07, 43609-07, 44323-07, 44282-07, 44322-07, 43975-07, 43602-07 and 43773-07 install short valve stem (43157- 83A) included in the installation kit. • For Kits 40943-09, 40966-09 and 40996-09 install long valve stem (43206-01) included in the installation kit. 2. See Figure 2. Install valve stem assembly (L, M or N) on wheel. Refer to TIRES in service manual. 3. Assemble wheel installation kit components and brake disc(s) to wheel, using the appropriate service parts table. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in Service Manual. NOTES Install the primary bearing first using appropriate service manual and WHEEL BEARING REMOVER/INSTALLER. For Kits 43573-08, 43575-08, 43703-08, 43978-07, 43771-07, 43609-07, 40943-09, 40966-09 and 40996-09: • The left side of the wheel has a machined groove (item 5, Figure 2) in the hub face and/or DOT markings to identify it as the brake disc and primary bearing side. • Install the wheel so that the valve stem is on the right side of the motorcycle. For Kits 44323-07, 44322-07 and 44282-07: • Install the wheel so that the hub markings are on the left side of the motorcycle. The left side of the wheel has a machined groove (item 5, Figure 2) in the hub face and hub markings to identify it as the primary bearing side. • These kits include one or two hub plates (43985-00) to install between the brake disc and the wheel and a chrome hub cap (43986-00) to install on the wheel opposite the brake disc side. Hub covers must be installed to prevent water intrusion, which could cause an imbalance condition. Dual brake disc models: Install one stainless steel hub plate (3) between each brake disc and wheel hub. Discard chrome hub cap (2). Install brake discs according to service manual procedures. Single brake disc models: Install one stainless steel hub plate (3) between the brake disc and wheel hub. Install the brake disc according to service manual procedures. Install the chrome hub cap (2) on the side opposite the brake disc. Discard extra stainless steel hub plate (3). • The gross axle weight ratings is unaffected by the installation of this wheel on a vehicle equipped with a 21-inch wheel. For Kits 43975-07, 43773-07, and 43602-07: • The wheel has a machined groove (item 5, Figure 2) in the hub face to identify the right side. • For 2007 and later FX Softail Models and 2008 and later FXDWG: The left side of the wheel is the primary bearing side. For all other models the right side of the wheel is the primary bearing side. • For Kit 43602-07: An arrow is engraved into the right side hub to indicate the direction of rotation. • For Kits 43975-07 and 43773-07: An arrow is cast between the spokes on the right side to indicate the direction of rotation. • These kits include one or two hub plates (43985-00) to install between the brake disc and the wheel and a chrome hub cap (43986-00) to install on the wheel opposite the brake-disc side. Hub covers must be installed to prevent water intrusion, which could cause an imbalance condition. Dual brake disc models: Install one stainless steel hub plate (3) between each brake disc and wheel hub. Discard chrome hub cap (2). Install brake discs according to service manual procedures. Single brake disc models: Install one stainless steel hub plate (3) between the brake disc and wheel hub. Install the brake disc according to service manual procedures. Install the chrome hub cap (2) on the side opposite the brake disc. Discard extra stainless steel hub plate (3). 4. Install wheel assembly parts from the appropriate Service Parts table for this fitment and stock brake disc. Discard parts from the installation kit that are not required. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in Service Manual. 5. For FLSTC and FLSTN Models: Install wheel kit and right side wheel spacer provided in installation kit. For FXSTD Models: Install wheel kit, stock left wheel spacer and right side wheel spacer from installation kit in place of the tapered right side wheel spacer discarded in Step 1. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. For FXSTS Models: Install the left side wheel spacer provided in the kit between the stock left wheel spacer and the left fork. All other models: Install wheel spacers previously removed. 6. Install front wheel (1), stock axle and stock axle nut. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual
Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 20-12-2011
Remove all contents from its packaging and verify that all parts are present and free from damage. You should have the following items: (2) wheel hubs (2) smaller tapered bearings (2) large tapered bearings (2) wheel bearing nuts (2) dust caps (2) inner bearing seals (6) M3 x .5 screws (2) cotter pins (2) inner bearing spacers 2. Completely remove the old hubs from your quad and clean the spindle and the surrounding areas. It is very important to keep the new bearings and seals clean during installation for long life. Be sure to remove the factory inner bearing spacers from the spindle and discard. They will not be used in re-assembly. 3. Pack your new Timken tapered wheel bearings with a liberal amount of high quality wheel bearing grease. A wheel bearing packer works best, however you can accomplish the task by placing the grease in the palm of your hand and manually working it in between the bearing rollers. We also recommend that you pack the area between the bearing races in the hub with grease for additional lubrication and protection against moisture. 4. Place the large wheel bearing (inner) into the hub and install the inner seal. The seal should bottom out against the step in the bore and the face should be flush with the hub. 5. Remove the brake rotors from your old hubs. Re-install the rotors on your new hubs and be sure to use medium strength Loctite on the threads. 6. Apply a light film of grease or oil to the large diameter of the spindle stud. Install the new o-ringed bearing spacer onto the spindle. 7. Apply a thin film of grease to the seal surface on the bearing spacer and the inside diameter of the seal to prevent the seal from running dry. Install the hub onto the spindle and slide the outer bearing over the spindle and install the new bearing nut furnished with your hubs. Do not use the factory nut or washer. 8. SETTING THE BEARING PRELOAD: It is first necessary to seat the bearing before setting the preload. This aligns the rollers and prevents the bearings from loosening after a short period of use. To seat the bearing, tighten the spindle nut while you rotate the hub until the hub becomes difficult to spin. With the bearing now seated, you must set the bearing preload. Preload means placing a small amount of force against the bearings to remove any clearance between the bearing race and the rollers. This is done by backing the nut off completely and re-tightening it with your fingers. Do not rotate the hub while setting the preload . If a hole in the spindle is not accessible for installation of the cotter pin, adjust the nut tighter to bring a hole into alignment. Install the cotter pin and bend the pin around the outside of the nut. Do not attempt to bend the pin toward you (over the end of the spindle) or it may rub on the inside of the dust cap.
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-02-2011
BEARING REMOVAL 1. Place the wheel vertically in a vise and protect the rim from being marred. NOTE See Figure 1 for the tool lubrication locations before using. 2. Assemble the remover tool. a. Install wheel bearing puller (1), (2) or (16) depending on the bearing I.D. See the service parts table for the size reference. Install the wheel bearing puller into the bearing by hand or use a rubber mallet ( not a hard-faced hammer) to push through the bearing I.D. Stop pushing on the bearing puller as soon as it has cleared the inside of the bearing race. There will be a slight click. b. Place main body puller (3) over bearing puller with the fingers of main body puller facing the wheel. Lightly oil all threads. c. Place the large brass washer (10) and nut (13) onto the puller and hand-tighten the nut until it stops at the top face of the bridge. 3. Remove the front wheel bearings. a. Apply a small amount of oil to the taper at the hex end of the expander dowel. Insert the expander dowel (7) through the other side of wheel bearings, and through the bearing puller. b. Install the washer (15 and nut (14) to the expander dowel and torque to 100 in-lbs (11.3 Nm) with a 11/16 inch wrench or socket while holding the other side of the expander dowel by reaching the opposite side of the wheel with a 3/8 inch hex key. c. Align the main body puller support fingers centered over the bearing to be removed. If main body puller will be directly on a finished chrome surface, protect the surface area. d. If resistance is felt with a torque wrench set at 40 ft- lbs (54.2 Nm) of torque, you will need to apply heat to the hub area surrounding the bearing. Prior to applying heat, place 2 to 3 temperature stickers (P/N 94146-10) around the circumference of the hub. Apply indirect heat using a heat gun. Do not exceed 210°F. With a 1-1/8 inch socket and torque wrench, turn the nut (13) until the bearing is pulled free from the wheel hub. e. Using a 3/8 in. hex key on an extension and torque wrench set on the expander dowel (7) and a 1-1/8 inch wrench. Turn the nut (13) until the bearing is free of the wheel hub. 4. Remove the wheel bearing spacer from the I.D. of the wheel hub. 5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the opposite bearing. NOTE Remove rear wheel belt sprocket before removing the bearings. 6. Rear wheel bearing removal is the same as steps 1 through 4 by using the correct size wheel bearing puller
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-11-2010
Remove the stock fuel induction system, including the manifold and disconnecting all wire connections. It is up to the technician as to whether the gas tank should be removed or just raised up in the rear. Picture 1 2- You will need to disassemble the stock induction system to remove the pre-listed parts for re-use. 3- Verify the new manifold size is appropriate for your motorcycle by sliding it in place. Picture 2 Picture 3 4 5- Slide the MAP sensor in place, being sure not to pinch the orange rubber seal—some clean engine oil may make this easier. Install the cable guide and verify it is aligned with the throttle cable actuator. Once alignment is satisfactory, apply Loctite® 222 to the 10-24 x 1/4″ screws and tighten to 18-22 in-lbs. 4- Install the new O-ring into the throttle body. A light film of clean engine oil can be used to help hold the O-ring in place. Align the manifold to the throttle body, use purple 222 Loctite® on the 10-24 x 1″ socket-head assembly screws (with flat washers) and tighten them to 35-40 in-lbs. 6- Using the new S&S® supplied gasket, slide the S&S supplied intake air temperature (IAT) sensor in place. Use Loctite 222 on the T10 Torx button head M3 x .5 x 10mm screws and tighten to 6-8 in-lbs. Picture 4 Picture 5 Picture 6 5 7- For the stock throttle position sensor attach the “C” shaped spacer to the end of the throttle shaft, put a 4mm flat washer on each T20 Torx button head M4 x .7 x 12mm screw, apply some Loctite® 222 and torque screws to 18-23 in-lbs. 8- Install the new O-ring on the IAC motor. Lubricate the OD of the O-ring with a light film of clean engine oil. Put a 4mm flat washer on each T20 Torx button head M4 x .7 x 12mm screw, coat the threads with Loctite 222. Install the IAC motor and tighten the screws to 18-23 in-lbs. 9- Partially install the fuel injectors in the fuel rail. Be sure to orient the black O-rings to the rail and align the clocking tabs with their holes. It may be helpful to lubricate the O-rings with clean engine oil. See Picture 9. NOTE : These are special O-rings that seal pressurized gasoline. If you see one with damage or an abrasion—replace it immediately. Picture 7 Picture 8 Picture 9 6 10- Connect the Injectors to the manifold with a light squeezing action. Lubricate the O-rings with clean engine oil. Once in place, use Loctite® 222 on the threads of two 8-32 x 5/8″ slotted panhead screws and tighten to 15-20 in-lbs. 11- Install the backing washer and O-ring on the fuel supply tube. Lubricate the O-ring with clean engine oil. When the tube is in place, position the Y-shaped clip on the fuel rail and tighten the Loctite 222 coated T20 Torx button head M4 x 7 x 12mm screw to 18-23 in-lbs – Gently push the injectors downward toward the manifold to increase clearance for connecting the wire connectors. Cut the existing injector connectors from the motorcycle harness. Slide the sleeveing onto the injector harness. Slide heat shrink tubing on to each wire of the injector harness wires. Crimp the butt splices to the motorcycle harness. Move the heat shrinks over the splices and shrink with a heat gun. Slide the sleeve into place. Picture 10 Picture 11a Picture 11b Picture 12 Picture 12a 7 13- Put the stock manifold flanges on the manifold. YOU MUST USE THE S&S® RUBBER GASKETS ON THEM. Be sure to orient the tapered end towards the manifold and the flat end to the heads. 14- Hold the manifold up in its basic mounting position and connect all of the wiring harness connectors at this time. Install the manifold using the stock mounting flange bolts (from the primary side of the motorcycle) coated with Loctite® 242 and the new S&S cam side screws (1/4″ socket head, 5/16-18 x 3/4″). If a screw longer than 3/4″ is used, damage to the heads will result. Lightly snug all four manifold mounting bolts but DO NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME. Connect the throttle cables and cruise control bracket (if applicable) at this time. NOTE: The Harley-Davidson® service manual for your model motorcycle will be helpful during this step. 15- Install the breather system now. On 4.00-inch bore or smaller engines the breather uses banjo fittings with hollow bolts and connects across the heads to the intake with a T-hose. This hose will need to be trimmed and have spring clamps attached as shown in photo. Torque the hollow bolts to 10-12 ft-lbs. On 41/8-inch bore or larger engines, install the sharp bent hose on the rear head and install the check valve with the white end towards the head. Mount the other hose on the black end of the check valve and connect it to the throttle body using spring clamps to secure the connections. Picture 13 Picture 14 Picture 15 8 16- Once the breathers are secure, install the fuel line per the factory service manual you are working with. Connect the battery and verify the fuel pump turns on to pressurize the system and there are no gas leaks, but DO NOT START THE ENGINE. At this time, PC software may also be used to verify sensor readings and adjust the throttle position sensor voltage if necessary. 17- Install two 242 Loctite® coated pipe plugs (included in kit) in the air cleaner backplate as shown in Picture 16. Torque to 35-45 in-lbs. Also, two pan screws coated with Loctite® 222 must be installed in the backplate in place of the enrichment device. See Picture 16a. Torque them to 12-18 in-lbs. Failure to install these screws could allow dirt and debris into the intake system. 18- Use a new gasket on the backplate and put it in place noting the number of shims required. Once you select the appropriate shims (included) mount the backing plate to the engine but DO NOT INSTALL THE SCREWS YET
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 11-02-2012
Start by loosening the rear cylinder down tube bolt located on the top of the old mufflers center collector in front of the rear tire. 2. Remove both of the front cylinder exhaust pipe head nuts and set them to the side for reuse with the MAC exhaust system. 3. Remove the right side passenger’s foot peg. Set the foot peg aside as you will need to reinstall it. 4. Remove the left side passenger’s foot peg. Set this foot peg aside as it will also need to be reinstalled. Note: When you remove this bolt the entire exhaust system will be loose and may fall. You will need to support the old exhaust at this point to keep from injuring yourself. Gently move the old exhaust system side to side to remove it from the rear cylinder down tube. Once the exhaust system is loose from the down tube remove the system from under the Virago. 5. Remove the bolt holding the rear brake pedal in place and remove the brake pedal from the motorcycle. Note: Set both the bolt and the pedal aside for reinstallation. 6. Next loosen the nut on the drivers right foot peg, 1 full turn to start with. Then remove the rear nut on the same foot peg. (Note: The bolt that this nut is on goes completely through the motorcycle. This is the center stand mounting bolt.) Now remove the front nut and set both aside for reuse with the MAC system. 7. Install the center stand stop bracket under the left passenger foot peg. Install this bracket with the 90° bend facing down and towards the rear tire. (Note: Center stand sop bracket in provided in the hardware kit and is approx. 5″ long with a 90° bend in it.) Adjust the bracket by one of the large bolts through the foot peg then through the bracket and then install it into the stock location. Put on one of the washers and a nut and snug up the nut. Lower the center stand until the center stand come in to contact with the bottom of the bracket. Tighten the nut until it will hold the bracket securely. 8. Install the rear down tube clamp onto the rear muffler and install the medium sized nut/bolt/washer onto the clamp just finger tight. 9. Install the (2) small bolts into the channel bracket on the rear muffler. Install the rear mounting bracket onto the two bolts and then install the washers and nuts onto each. Tighten the (2) nuts only slight amount so that you can slide the bracket front to rear to insure that when you install the bracket you position it properly. 10. Slide the rear pipe onto the rear down tube about ¼”to ¾” past the pre-cut slots on the rear muffler pipe. Slightly snug the clamp making sure that the position of the bolt and nut will not interfere with any moving parts. The final position of this bolt can hit the tire if it is not positioned properly. 11. Install the other large bolt into the right passenger and then through the top hole in the rear muffler mounting bracket. Insert the bolt into the stock location and install the washer and the nut. 12. Align the rear muffler and you can then tighten the nuts on the rear muffler mounting bracket, the cylinder down tube and the right side passenger foot peg.
13. Install the front muffler on the rear most mounting bolt of the drivers foot peg and put the stock nut back onto the bolt. Hand tighten the bolt only at this time. Note: Install the nut at this time is only to support the muffler and to insure that the pipe does not fall on the ground while you complete the next step. 14. Lift the front head pipe into position and start the stock nuts onto the studs. It is strongly recommended that you install new exhaust gasket at this time. Note: The new exhaust gaskets are not included in the kit but are available at your local Yamaha Dealer. After gaskets are installed hand tighten the front head pipe. 15. Remove the nut from the drivers foot peg bolt and reinstall the drivers foot peg. Note: Hand tighten only at this time. 16. Finish tightening the nuts on the front head pipes. (Install these nuts according to Yamaha’s Factory specifications.) Once the nuts are tightened on the head pipe you can then tighten the drivers foot peg nuts. 17. Reinstall the rear brake pedal and tighten the bolt that holds it on to factory specifications. 18. Check all of the bolts that you have installed of removed to insure that they are tight. 19. Start the motorcycle and check for any leaks. 20. You are finished with your new MAC Exhaust System.