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HAR:EY DAVIDSON FLHR/C/S (Road King) FRONT END LOWERING KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-03-2011

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Removal (Left and Right Forks) 1. Place suitable blocking under frame to raise front wheel several inches off the floor. For best results, use a hydraulic center stand on a level surface. 2. Refer to Touring Model Service Manual and remove front wheel, fender and brakes. 3. Refer to Touring Model Service Manual and remove headlamp nacelle. 4. Loosen fork cap bolt from fork tube plug at top of fork tube, but do not remove. 5. See Figure 1. Standing at front of vehicle, loosen pinch bolt (with lockwasher) on right side of lower fork bracket, but do not remove. 6. Spray glass cleaner on fork tube above the rubber fork stop. After lubricating surfaces, move fork stop up fork tube until it contacts bottom of upper fork bracket. 7. Holding fork slider to prevent fork from dropping, remove fork cap bolt from fork tube plug. Slide fork tube down and out of upper fork bracket, fork stop, lower fork bracket and slider cover. 1 WARNING 1 WARNING 1 WARNING 1 of 5 ® Kit Number 54614-05 Figure 1. Loosen Pinch Bolt on Lower Fork Bracket i04808 1 Fork cap bolt 2 Fork stop 3 Pinch bolt 8. Thread fork cap bolt back into fork tube plug to prevent loss of oil while handling. 9. Move forks to bench area. Place suitable drain pan on floor beneath vise. 10. Repeat Steps 2-6 to remove left fork. Left And Right Fork-Disassembly 1. Remove nuts, lockwashers, flat washers and axle holder from studs at end of fork slider. 2. See Figure 2. Obtain FORK TUBE HOLDER (Part Number HD-41177) and proceed as follows: a. Clamp end of tool in vise in a horizontal position with plastic knobs facing toward you. b. See Figure 3. With the fork cap bolt topside, clamp fork tube between rubber pads on inboard side of tool. Tighten knobs until fork tube is securely held. 3. Remove fork cap bolt from fork tube plug. Remove quad ring seal. Save bolt but discard quad ring seal. 4. Using wrench flat, slowly unthread fork tube plug from fork tube. Be aware that fork tube plug is under spring pressure, so have a firm grasp on plug as the last thread is turned. 5. Remove fork spring from fork tube. 6. Remove fork assembly from fork tube holder. 7. Turning fork upside down, drain fork oil into drain pan. For best results, slowly pump fork tube and slider at least 10 times. 8. Install fork spring back into fork tube. 9. Place a shop rag on the floor, and turning fork assembly upside down, press end of spring against rag. While compressing spring to prevent rotation of damper tube, remove 6mm screw from end of fork slider. Use air impact wrench for best results. 10. Remove and discard fork spring. 11. Remove and discard damper tube. 12. Remove wear ring and rebound spring. Discard rebound spring. Do not expand or stretch retaining clip to remove from fork tube or clip may become bent or distorted. 13. Using pick tool, remove retaining clip between fork slider and fork tube. 14. Remove fork tube from fork slider. NOTE To overcome any resistance, use the fork tube as a slide hammer, that is, first push fork tube into fork slider and then pull it outward with a moderate amount of force. Repeat this sequence until fork tube separates from fork slider. 15. Slide fork oil seal, slider spacer and slider bushing off end of fork tube. Discard fork oil seal and slider bushing. 16. Remove the lower stop. Right and Left Fork-Assembly Exercise caution to avoid scratching or nicking fork tube. Damaging tube can result in fork oil leaks after assembly. 1. See Service Parts Illustration. Obtain new Damper Tube (Item 7, Part Number 46532-04) from kit. Obtain new Rebound Spring (Item 8, Part Number 46273-02) from kit and install on opposite end. Install wear ring removed in step 12. 2. With the wear ring topside, slide new damper tube into fork tube, so that tube end drops through hole at bottom of fork tube. Install lower stop at end of damper tube. 3. Install fork slider in fork tube holder. Slide fork tube into fork slider. 4. If necessary, obtain new slider bushing (14) (Part Number 45940-84, not included). Coat slider bushing ID with clean fork oil. Slide slider bushing down fork tube. 5. Slide slider spacer down fork tube until it contacts slider bushing.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON TOURING FRONT LOWERING KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-03-2011

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REMOVAL 1. Place suitable blocking under frame to raise front wheel several inches off the floor. For best results, use a hydraulic center stand on a level surface. 2. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual and remove the front forks. 3. Move forks to bench area. Place suitable drain pan on floor beneath a vise. INSTALLATION Fork Disassembly 1. See Figure 6. Remove nuts (U), lockwashers (T), flat washers (S) and axle holder (R) from studs at end of fork slider. 2. See Figure 1. Obtain FORK TUBE HOLDER (HD-41177) and proceed as follows: a. Clamp end of tool in vise (1) in a horizontal position with plastic knobs facing toward you. b. With the fork cap bolt topside, clamp fork tube between rubber pads (2) on inboard side of tool. Tighten knobs (3) until fork tube is securely held. NOTE Refer to Figure 6 for Steps 3-17. 3. Remove fork cap bolt (A) from fork tube plug. Remove quad ring seal. Save bolt but discard quad ring seal. 4. Using wrench flat, slowly unthread fork tube plug (B) from fork tube (G). Be aware that fork tube plug is under spring pressure, so have a firm grasp on plug as the last thread is turned. 5. Remove fork spring (1) from fork tube. 6. Remove fork assembly from fork tube holder. 7. Turning fork upside down, drain fork oil into drain pan. For best results, slowly pump fork tube and slider at least 10 times. 8. Install fork spring back into fork tube. 9. Place a shop rag on the floor, and turning fork assembly upside down, press end of spring against rag. While compressing spring to prevent rotation of damper tube, remove screw and washer (Q) from end of fork slider. Use air impact wrench for best results. 10. Remove and discard fork spring. 11. Remove and save blow valve (E). 12. Remove damper tube (2). 13. Remove rebound spring (F) from damper tube. 14. Using pick tool, remove retaining clip (H) between fork slider and fork tube. 15. Remove fork tube (G) from fork slider. Slide fork tube gently in a slide hammer motion against the slider to remove the seals and bushing from slider. 16. Slide fork oil seal (I), slider spacer (J) and slider bushing (K) off end of fork tube (G). 17. Remove the lower stop (L). Fork Assembly NOTE Refer to Figure 6 for the following procedure. 1. Obtain new Damper Tube (2) from kit and install rebound spring (F) over the lower end. 2. With the wear ring topside, slide new damper tube into fork tube, so that tube end drops through hole at bottom of fork tube (G). Install lower stop (L) on the lower end of damper tube. 3. Install fork slider (O or N) in fork tube holder. Slide fork tube into fork slider. 4. If necessary, obtain new slider bushing (K) (45940-84, not included). Coat slider bushing ID with clean fork oil. Slide slider bushing (K) down fork tube. 5. Slide slider spacer (J) down fork tube until it contacts slider bushing. 6. Obtain new fork oil seal (I) (45875-84A, not included). Coat fork oil seal ID with clean fork oil. With the lip garter spring side facing down (toward the fork slider), slide oil seal down fork tube until it contacts slider spacer title_tag=

SUSPENSION SERVICE TOOLS/ FORK DAMPER ROD BLEED TOOL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 30-11-2010

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33 SHOP EQUIPMENT & TOOLS SUSPENSION SERVICE TOOLS K&L FORK TUBE U-BLOCKS Precision machined from billet aluminum, these quality three piece sets are a handy, accurate and safe way to straighten and check fork tubes. 35-9411 36mm (for 33 thru 36mm tubes) 35-9412 40mm (for 37 thru 40mm tubes) 35-9413 43mm (for 41 thru 43mm tubes) 35-9414 46mm (for 44 thru 46mm tubes) 35-1964 35-8579 35-7995 DAMPER ROD HOLDERS Holds damper rod when disassembling forks. 35-8578 Yamaha front forks, 43mm Kayaba YZ125/250 (1988) YZ490 (88-90) 35-8579 Yamaha YZ125/250 with UD(upside down) forks FORK DAMPER ROD TOOLS Sold each. 35-7995 Combination Fork Damper Tool Designed to hold the damper rod during assembly & disassembly of Honda XR400′s or Suzuki DR-Z400S. One end features spanner type prongs for the XR400 and the other a 27mm hex for Suzuki. 35-1964 Combination Damper Rod Fork Tool Designed for assembly and disassembly of most inverted Kayaba and Showa 41mm, 43mm, 46, and 47mm forks. Use one end for Kayaba forks and the other for Showa forks. (not required for 91-92 Honda CR models) ROD HOLDER Double sided damper rod holder. Works on Kayaba U.D (upside down) 41mm forks. 35-8580 Yamaha YZ125/250Amodels (89-90) FRONT FORK CAP SOCKET Designed to remove and install Yamaha front fork caps with female hex head. Sold each. 35-8571 14mm female socket 35-8573 19mm female socket FORK DAMPER ROD HOLDERS Holds damper rod when disassembling and assembling front forks. 35-8576 Use for Yamaha 43mm Kayaba forks, 30mm hex YZ125 (84-87), YZ250 (81-87) IT250 (1983) YZ490 (82-87) 35-8577 Use for Yamaha 38mm Kayaba forks, 24mm hex YZ125 (81-83), IT175 (82-83), IT250 (81-82) YZ250 (77-80), YZ400 (77-79), IT465 (81-82) FORK CAP WRENCH Designed to remove the front fork caps on late model Honda CR’s and Suzuki RM’s. Can also be used for adjusting compression. One end of wrench is 49mm, the other is 50mm. Sold each. 35-7803 Fork Cap Wrench 35-8576 35-8577 35-8571 35-8573 6 Point Hex 35-8578

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HARLEY DAVIDSON FX SOFTAIL FRONT LOWERING SUSPENSION KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 04-04-2011

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REMOVAL 1. Place suitable blocking under frame to raise front wheel several inches off the floor. For best results, use a hydraulic center stand on a level surface. 2. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual and remove the front forks. 3. Move forks to bench area. Place suitable drain pan on floor beneath a vise. INSTALLATION Fork Disassembly 1. See Figure 6. Remove nuts (T), lockwashers (S), flat washers (R) and axle cap from studs at end of fork slider. 2. See Figure 1. Obtain FORK TUBE HOLDER (HD-41177) and proceed as follows: a. Clamp end of tool in vise (1) in a horizontal position with plastic knobs facing toward you. b. With the fork cap bolt topside, clamp fork tube between rubber pads (2) on inboard side of tool. Tighten knobs (3) until fork tube is securely held. NOTE Refer to Figure 6 for Steps 3-17. 3. Remove fork cap bolt (A) and spacer (O) from fork tube plug (B). Remove quad ring seal (D). Save bolt and spacer but discard quad ring seal. 4. Using wrench flat, slowly unthread fork tube plug (B) from fork tube (G). Be aware that fork tube plug is under spring -J03923 1 of 4 pressure, so have a firm grasp on plug as the last thread is turned. 5. Remove fork spring (1) from fork tube. 6. Remove fork assembly from fork tube holder. 7. Turning fork upside down, drain fork oil into drain pan. For best results, slowly pump fork tube and slider at least 10 times. 8. Install fork spring back into fork tube. 9. Place a shop rag on the floor, and turning fork assembly upside down, press end of spring against rag. While compressing spring to prevent rotation of damper tube, remove screw and washer (Q) from end of fork slider. Use air impact wrench for best results. 10. Remove and discard fork spring (1). 11. Remove dust cover (E). 12. Using pick tool, remove retaining clip (H) between fork slider and fork tube. 13. Remove fork tube (G) from fork slider. Slide fork tube gently in a slide hammer motion against the slider to remove the seals and bushing from slider. 14. Slide fork oil seal (I), slider spacer (J) and slider bushing (K) off end of fork tube (G). NOTE The lower stop (L) may come out with the damper tube or remain in the slider tube. Ensure that the lower stop is removed from the slider tube. 15. Remove the lower stop (L). 16. Remove damper tube (2) from fork tube. 17. Remove rebound spring (F) from damper tube. 18. Repeat Steps 1-17 for the opposite side fork assembly. Fork Assembly

Harley Davidson 39 mm Front Spring Lowering Kit INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-04-2012

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1. Support the motorcycle so the front wheel is off the ground. Next remove the front wheel and fender. Remove the fork cap nuts and loosen the lower triple clamp pinch bolts. Remove the front brake caliper. Some models have a tapered end to the fork tube. Extra effort will be required to remove the tube from the crown. Loosen the top fork cap 1 to 2 revolutions. Use a soft wood block or similar tool (that will not mark fork cap finish) and tap down with mallet to loosen fork tube from its tapered fit in top steering crown. Make sure fork pinch bolts are loose. To completely remove fork of this style, unscrew the fork cap entirely. 2. Slide both fork assemblies out of the triple clamps. Unscrew the top fork tube plugs. Remove the plugs and fork springs. CAUTION: Fork caps are under spring pressure and could cause serious injury. Drain the fork oil by turning the fork assemblys upside-down. 3. Next, bottom the fork tube into the fork leg. DO NOT extend the tube while you remove the allen bolt on the bottom of the fork leg. Turn the assembly upside-down and shake the damper rod and rebound spring out of the fork assembly. Again, DO NOT extend the tube during this. Extending the tube could dislodge the internal bottoming cone, which fits on the end of the damping rod, making it very difficult to reinstall the damper rod without complete fork disassembly. 4. FOR 1″ REDUCTION IN FORK LENGTH: You must first measure the length of the O.E.M. rebound spring. Depending on the model of the motorcycle, the length will either be 1″ or 2″ long. A. If you currently have a 1″ rebound spring, you need to replace it with the 2″ long LA Choppers rebound spring (included in the kit), then reinstall the damper rod in the fork tube. B. If you currently have a 2″ rebound spring, you will need to add the 1″ long spacer, then reinstall the damper rod in the fork tube.

HARLEY DAVIDSON FL SOFTAIL PROFILE LOW FRONT SUSPENSION KIT INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Fork Spring Removal 1. Elevate and support the vehicle so the front tire is off the floor and the forks are fully extended. 4 9 3 1 10 11 2 5 6 7 8 is04004 1. Slider tube cap 2. Spacer washer 3. Oil seal 4. Clamp bolt and washer 5. Fork tube plug 6. O-ring 7. Fork spring 8. Tight-wound end of spring 9. Fork slider tube 10. Fork slider 11. Drain screw and washer Figure 1. Front Fork NOTE Remove the brake caliper from the fork slider. DO NOT remove the brake line from the caliper. 2. Remove the front wheel. See FRONT WHEEL: FLSTC/FLSTF/FLSTN in the Service Manual. 3. Remove the front fender. See FRONT FENDER in the Service Manual. 4. See Figure 1. Remove the slider tube cap (1), spacer (2) and oil seal (3) from the top of one fork side. Save the cap and spacer. The oil seal can be discarded. 5. Loosen the clamp bolt (4) and pull the fork from the brackets. 6. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 for the other fork side. -J00280 1 of 4 Wear saf ety glasses or gog gles when ser vicing f ork assembly. Do not remove slider tube caps without relieving spring preload or caps and springs can fly out, which could result in death or serious injury. (00297a) NOTE Be careful not to damage the O-ring. 7. See Figure 1. Remove the fork tube plug (5) and O-ring (6). Pull the spring (7) out of the slider tube (9). Remove the drain screw and washer (11), and drain the fork. Reinstall the drain screw and washer, and tighten to 52-78 in-lbs (5.9-8.9 Nm). 8. Repeat Step 7 for the other fork side. NOTE The Profile® Low Front Suspension Kit requires a different amount of H-D TYPE E FORK OIL than is listed in the Service Manual. NOTE Measure the oil level from the top of the fork tube with the fork spring removed and the fork fully compressed. 9. See FRONT FORK OIL in the Service Manual, but substitute the measures below. Fill the forks with Harley- Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL: • 1986 through 1999 models: •11.7 oz (345 cc) of oil, or •5.2 inch (132 mm) from top of oil level to top of tube. • 2000 and later models: •13.4 oz (396 cc) of oil, or •4.1 inch (104 mm) from top of oil level to top of tube. Fork Spring Installation 1. Insert a new Profile Low spring (7) from the kit into each slider tube (9), with the tight-wound portion (8) toward the bottom of the fork slider. NOTE Be careful not to damage the O-ring. 2. Install the fork tube plug (5) and O-ring (6) assembly into the slider tube and tighten securely. Be sure that one flat on each fork tube plug faces toward the inside of the fork. 3. Insert both fork side assemblies up through the slider covers, the fork stem and bracket, and the upper bracket. 4. Obtain two new oil seals (3), H-D Part Number 45733-48, and the spacer washers (2) and slider tube caps (1) saved earlier. Place an oil seal, followed by a spacer washer, onto each fork tube plug. 5. Insert the threads of a slider tube cap through each washer and seal, and into the fork tube plugs. Tighten to 40-60 ft- lbs (54.2-81.3 Nm). 6. Tighten the fork stem bracket clamp bolts (4) to 30-35 ft- lbs (40.7-47.5 Nm). 7. Install the front fender. See FRONT FENDER in the Service Manual. Install the front wheel and brake caliper. See FRONT WHEEL: FLSTC/FLSTF/FLSTN in the Service Manual. Jiffy Stand Removal/Installation 1. Move the jiffy stand to the retracted (up) position. Wear safety glasses or goggles when removing or installing spring. Spring tension can cause spring, attached components and/or hand tools to fly out which could result in death or serious injury. (00477c) 2. See Figure 3. Unfasten the jiffy stand leg spring (A) from the vehicle. Remove the hex bolt (B), lock washer (C), flat washer (D) and leg stop (E) from the threaded end of the jiffy stand leg. Discard the jiffy stand leg, but retain all other components. 3. Clean and inspect the jiffy stand attaching parts and mounting bracket for wear or damage. If parts replacement is necessary, refer to the Jiffy Stand section of your Service Manual for replacement procedures

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RACE TECH SUSPENSION SERVICE TOOLS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 01-12-2010

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SHOCK SEAL BULLET TOOL “Bullet Tools” make seal head installation onto shafts quick and easy. 35-8677 TSSB12512.5 x 10mm Shock Seal Bullet 35-8678 TSSB1414 x 12mm Shock Seal Bullet 35-8679 TSSB1616 x 12mm Shock Seal Bullet FORK CAP WRENCH 46/50MM Black Oxidized steel construction for superior strength. Multiple applications (46/50mm): Honda CR250 (97-00), Suzuki RM125/250 (96-00), and removes compression adjuster assembly on Suzuki RM125/250 (98-00). Sold each. 35-8670 TFCW4650 Fork Cap Wrench SHAFT HOLDING TOOL Holds fork damping rods, cartridges, shock shafts, etc. while servicing. (aluminum) 35-8672 TFSH10 Shaft Holding Tool 10, 12, 12.5, & 14mm (Dampning Rods) 35-8673 TFSH14 Shaft Holding Tool 14, 16, & 18mm (Shock Shafts) 35-8674 TFSH20 Shaft Holding Tool 20, 24, & 29mm (20 & 25mm Fork Cartridges) 35-8675 TFSH32 Shaft Holding Tool 32 & 35mm (28 & 32mm Fork Cartridges) ULTRA SLICK SEAL GREASE Race Tech Ultra-Slick Grease provides maximum lubrication and minimum friction for all seal and bushing needs. Available in 1 oz. container. 35-8682 Ultra Slick Seal Grease SHOCK SEAL HEAD SETTING TOOL Allows easy removal and installation of all 40 – 46mm integral shock seal head assemblies. 35-8676 TFSH32 Shock Seal Head Setting Tool SAG MASTER™ The Sag Master is a tool that makes measuring “Race Sag”a snap because you read it directly. No more subtracting! Also useful in determining proper spring rates and monitoring linkage and seal drag. Comes with complete instructions and, doubles as a tape measure. 35-8681 TSSM01 Sag Master Race Sag Setting Tool FORK SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL This unique fork spring compressor is designed to work on most current sport bikes and road racers. It allows the spring to be compressed while the fork cap is removed from the rod. It can be used on or off the bike on most models. 35-8680 TFSC01 Fork Spring Compressor Tool

Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom and Classic cruisers Floorboard/ Footpeg Extension Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.

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Street Fork Spring Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 13-02-2011

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1. Remove fork springs according to instructions contained in your shop manual. For maximum performance we highly recommend that the forks be thoroughly cleaned, inspected and new fork oil installed. Note: If your motorcycle comes equipped with two fork springs in each leg (long & short), remove and discard both springs and the flat washer between the springs. If a stock spacer exits, remove it. If there is a short spring on the damper rod, do not remove it! 2. Use the recommended fork oil viscosity as noted in your owners manual with the following exceptions: GL1100 20 weight, GL1200/1500 15 weight required. See fine tuning for more in- formation. Fork oil level/volume should be checked according to the steps outlined in your authorized shop manual. Measurement of your fork oil by level is the preferred method. However, some manuals only specify a volume measurement. Due to the design of a progressive wound fork spring it will displace more oil thus requiring a maximum oil level of 5.5″ (140mm). Caution: This is not a recommendation, it is only a precautionary statement. If your manual specifies an oil level higher than 5.5″ (140mm) set the oil level at 5.5″ (140mm). (Oil level is the distance from the top of the fork tube to the top of the oil with the fork completely collapsed and the fork spring removed see figure 1.) This measurement can be made by using either one of the Progressive Suspension Fork Oil Level Adjusters (FOL-1 or FOL-2). 3. Install your new fork springs into the forks. Mechanically, it makes no difference which way the springs are installed. Some manuals will state; install the spring with the close wound end towards the bottom. This is done because sometimes there will be less spring noise. The springs will perform exactly the same regardless of which direction they are placed. Check the spacer length requirement for your motorcycle in the enclosed supplement. If not listed, you must calculate the pre-load. What is pre-load? Pre-load is the distance the spring compresses when the fork cap is installed. You may or may not utilize a spacer to achieve proper pre-load. The spacer in itself is not “pre-load”. It just helps to achieve it. Why is pre-load important? It determines the proper ride height which in turn affects how the bike handles.

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