how to make kawasaki stx 12f jet ski go faster

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KAWASAKI STX-12F, STX-15F Riva/Vortech Supercharged STX-15F Engine INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our race bred Supercharger System for the Kawasaki STX-15F contains all necessary engine components to produce the ultimate 80mph closed course race craft. Kit contains the same specifications that Team Kawasaki won two 2004 Pro Runabout World Titles with. System produces over 300hp using VP MS109 race fuel (Jet X). Kit includes Vortech Supercharger & Intercooler Forged Racing Pistons, Free flow Exhaust Kit, Race programmed ECU, High volume Injectors & Fuel Pump along with all necessary hardware and detailed installation instructions. Riva/Vortech Supercharged STX-15F Engine (Team Kawi Spec) PERFORMANCE DATA Stock 61 MPH @ 7,600 RPM Supercharged 80+ MPH @ 8,300 RPM RIVA STX-15F OFFSHORE RACE KIT Our Offshore Racing Kit for the Kawasaki STX-15F contains the same components and specifications that Team Kawasaki developed to dominate the international racing circuit. This modification delivers over 200hp producing awesome acceleration and a top speed of over 700mph using VP MS109 race fuel (Jet X). Kit includes high compression racing pistons, performance intake & exhaust cam shafts, Race programmed ECU along with all necessary gaskets and detailed installation instructions

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KAWASAKI Jet Ski STX-12F SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-11-2010

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FEATURES & BENEFITS Kawasaki 2007 SPECIFICATIONS: JT1200D7F Engine type……………… 4-stroke, water cooled, 4- cylinder Displacement…………… 1,199 cm3 Bore & stroke…………… 83.0 x 55.4 mm Compression ratio…… 11.2:1 Induction system……… DOHC 16 valve (4 valves per cylinder) Maximum power………. 92 kW (125 PS) / 7,200 r/min Maximum torque……… 125 N·m / 6,500 r/min Cooling system……….. inducted water Fuel system…………….. EFI with single 54 mm throttle Starting ……………………. electric Battery…………………….. sealed, 12V 18Ah Propulsion system…… axial flow, single stage jet pump Maximum thrust………. 3,675 N (375 kgf) Seating capacity………. 3 seater Fuel capacity…………… 62 L L x W x H…………………. 3,120 x 1,180 x 1,050 mm Dry weight……………….. 334 kg Colours……………………. Red NOTE: Specifications subject to change without notice ENGINE Ñ Chrome composite plated cylinders are lightweight, durable and quickly carry heat away from the combustion chamber and piston for supreme durability at high power output. Ñ Semi-dry sump uses a single feed oil pump. Ñ Tip over protection shuts the engine off if the craft tilts more than 61o. Ñ 4-valves per cylinder provides maximum valve area for optimum flow. Fuel system Ñ Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) with a single Mitsubishi throttle body and an injector at each intake port. Ñ Long intake tract enhances low-end power. Ñ Large capacity, low-noise airbox. Ñ Finger-type throttle reduces hand fatigue. Water-jacketed semi-dry exhaust Ñ Double-walled exhaust manifold and dual waterboxes help reduce noise. Ñ Water surrounding the exhaust system lowers engine compartment temperatures for more power. Ñ Semi-dry exhaust system keeps cooling water out of the exhaust before the waterbox to prevent water from entering the engine if the boat should capsize. Ñ Emissions meet US EPA 2006 and CARB 2008 regulations. Lanyard engine stop switch Ñ Engine will not crank with lanyard removed. Ñ Fastened to the rider, lanyard cuts the ignition if the rider dismounts. DRIVE SYSTEM Three-blade oval edge stainless steel impeller Ñ The shape of the blades give maximum efficiency with minimum cavitation. Ñ Fully enclosed impeller for damage protection. Ñ Stainless steel pump insert increases durability and helps ensure reliable performance. Ñ Tough stainless steel is used for incredible durability. HULL Ñ One-piece chopper over foam (COF) hull construction is lighter than a conventional hand-laid hull of similar size. Ñ Cab forward design makes more space for the rider and passengers. Ñ Gel coat for deep, lustrous, scratch resistant finish. Ñ Open rear deck for carrying bulky items, putting on skis, etc. Ñ
An automatically retractable boarding step makes boarding from deep water easy. Kawasaki Smart Steering (KSS) Ñ A steering sensor is linked to the EMM to aid in boat handling when the throttle is quickly released from high speed. Detail features Ñ 62 litre fuel tank for increased range. Ñ LCD instrumentation includes digital speedometer, tachometer, hour meter, clock, trip distance, trip time, fuel level and warning lamps. Ñ Includes high tech. troubleshooting function for the fuel injection system. A computer hook-up allows easy retrieval of entire troubleshooting history. Ñ A remote cooling system flushing point is included. Ñ Front hatch made of ABS for reduced weight, increased durability and enhanced appearance. Ñ Mirrors mounted on the deck reduce weight and enhance appearanced

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Triumph SU CARBURETORS SERVICING AND TUNING

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Jets: These are made in various sizes ranging from.099 inches to.1875 inches, the larger sizes being used only for racing or very high performance engines. The two sizes most commonly found on production cars are the.090 inch and the.100 inch. The size of the jet will be found stamped on the jet head. The figure “nine”wilt indicate that it is the.090 inch and the figure “one”will indicate the.100 inch jet. When tuninga production car the jets size should be checked to make sure that it is of the size recommended by the manufacturers. Centering of Jet: If for any reason, the jet assembly has been removed, it will be ne cessary to recenter the jet. First, remove the clevis pin at the base of the jet which attaches the jet head to the jet operating lever. Withdraw the jet completely and remove the adjusting nut and spring, then replace the adjusting nut, without its spring, and screw it up toits highest position. Slide the Set into position until the jet head is against the base of the adjusting nut. When this has been done, find out if the piston is perfectly free by lifting it up with the finger and allowing it to drop. If the piston is not entirely free, slacken the jet screw and manipulate the lower part of the assembly, including the projecting part of the bottom half of the jet bearing, adjusting nut, and jet head. Make sure that this assembly is now slightly loose. The piston should then rise and fall quite freely as the needle is now able to move the jet into the required central position. The jet screw should now be tightened and a further check made to determine that the piston is still quite free. When complete freedom of the piston is achieved the jet adjusting nut should be removed, together with the jet, and the spring replaced. Experience has shown that a large percentage of carburetors, which have given trouble has been due to the incorrect centering of jets. Jet Needles— These are made in a great variety of sizes, probably now well over two hundred and fifty, and each type of engine hasaneedlethat has been selected, after very careful tests have been carried out, to give the best all-round performance. Most manufacturers actually give three alternative needles for each type and size of engine, these needles clearly being listed by the manufacturer “Standard”, “Rich”or”Weak”and before tuning is started the needle, which is marked on the shank should be checked against the manufacturer’srecommendation to make quite sure that the right needle is fitted; this is most important.

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KTM 250/ 300/ 380 SX,MXC,EXC ENGINE REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Repair manual KTM 250 / 300 / 380 Art No 3206004 -E 2-2C main jet jet needle jet needle air control screw idle adjusting screw idle jet throttle valve Idling range A Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the position of the air control screw 1 and the idle adjusting screw 2 . Only make adjustments when the engine is hot. To this end, slightly increase the idling speed of the engine by means of the idle adjusting screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turning the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Create a round and stable engine speed using the air control screw (basic position of the air control screw = open by 1.5 turns). Then adjust to the normal idling speed by means of the idle adjusting screw. Opening up B Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and part-throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully opened and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high engine speeds, the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level too high or the float needle is leaking. Part-throttle range C Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the jet needle (shape and position). The optimum part-throttle setting is controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the upper range. If the engine runs on a four-stroke cycle or with reduced power when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be lowered by one notch. If then the engine pings, especially when accelerating under full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised. If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the engine pings, adjust the idling range richer. Full throttle range D Operation with the throttle fully open (flat out). This range is influenced by the main jet and the jet needle. If the porcelain of the new spark plug is found to have a very bright or white coating or if the engine rings, after a short distance of riding flat out, a larger main jet is required. If the porcelain is dark brown or black with soot the main jet must be replaced by a smaller one. mixture too rich: too much fuel in proportion to air mixture too lean: not enough fuel in proportion to air 1 2 OPERATING RANGES OF THE CARBURETOR 2-3C Carburetor adjustment Basic information on the original carburetor setting The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient temperature of approx. 20°C (68°F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95 MOZ). Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil : super fuel 1:40 – 1:60. Basic information on a change of the carburetor setting Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance. RULE OF THUMB:

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Kawasaki Sxi/ SXR Ignition twin cylinder Jet Ski ignition Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove electronics enclosure from its mounting location. 2. Unplug and remove the OEM ignition. 3. Set the programming switches on the T3 to your settings. 4. Install the T3 Ignition in the same location in the electronics enclosure. 5. Test the T3 Ignition. 6. Close the electronics enclosure cover plate and mount the module in the PWC. Installation Remove electronics enclosure from its Mounting Location 1. Using a 10mm socket remove the mounting bolts on each side of the electronics enclosure. 2. Remove the enclosure cover and set aside the screws, 2 mounting flanges, ‘O” ring, and enclosure top. Unplug and Remove the OEM Ignition 1. Using 10mm socket, remove bolts from each side of the OEM ignition. Lift out the ignition and unplug all connectors attached to the OEM ignition. Now remove the protective metal plate that was under the ignition and two 3/16″ thick washers under that plate. 2. On 2004 models and newer remove the wire harness for the two black connectors just unplugged from the OEM ignition. Trace each wire from each black connector back to in-line connectors and separate each of these connectors. Set the two harnesses aside. Install the T3 Ignition in the Electronics Enclosure 1. Install the T3 ignition into the mounting bracket supplied with your T3. Slide the end of the ignition module under the lip at the rear of the bracket an press the wire end of the ignition firmly into the bracket. Attach the keeper bracket using two 5mm bolts supplied. Place the ignition/bracket in the location where the OEM ignition and metal plate were removed. Secure the ignition in place with the supplied bolts

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Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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2004-2007 Kawasaki STX-15F Supercharger Kit installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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ENGINE REMOVAL: 1. Turn ignition off, remove lanyard, disconnect battery cables and remove battery. 2. Remove engine following steps outlined in section 7 of Kawasaki service manual. NOTE: Replace oil filter if engine was run previously. Please recycle used oil and oil filter. NOTE: Clear an area on a sturdy workbench or heavy-duty cart to place engine after removal. Be sure to carefully place engine on a smooth surface so as not to damage oil pan. It is recommended that you have assistance for the engine removal process. 3. Replace stock pistons, rings, piston pins, clips, cylinder head gasket and cylinder base gasket with supplied forged pistons, rings, piston pins, clips, cylinder head gasket and cylinder base gasket following the steps outlined in section 6 of the Kawasaki service manual. NOTE: This is an involved process requiring advanced mechanical skills and 4-stroke engine experience. DO NOT ATTEMPT if you are not mechanically inclined or familiar with 4-stroke engines. 4. Remove OE crankshaft coupler and discard. 5. Locate boss on PTO housing just above crankshaft. Cut off at a 45° angle. (See page 1 of Installation Images) NOTE: Cover end of crankshaft. Thoroughly clean engine afterwards. EXHAUST SYSTEM MODIFICATIONS: 6. Inside hull under rear grab handle remove air inlet tubes. Disconnect hoses for stock bilge pick-ups from breather fittings. (see illustration #1) 7. Remove exhaust hose connecting primary muffler (left water box) to secondary muffler (right water box). Disconnect remaining hoses from breather fittings. Remove exhaust hose connecting secondary water box to exhaust outlet. (see illustration #2) NOTE: Retain hose clamps. 8. Remove section of foam between top deck and pump area and discard. 9. At rear of hull remove and discard plastic exhaust outlet nozzle. Remove exhaust outlet, cut 5-3/4″ from end of flange and weld a bead around modified end of exhaust outlet. (see illustration #3) NOTE: Sand or file edge after modifying. 10. Install one supplied silicone coupler onto modified exhaust outlet and secure using OE hose clamp. (see illustration #4) Install exhaust outlet into hull and secure using stock hardware. (see illustration #5) NOTE: Be sure rubber gasket is in place between flange and hull. Do not use any sealant. Apply blue Loc-tite to bolts. Do not over tighten bolts. 11. Install supplied billet exhaust outlet tip using supplied hardware. (see illustration #6) NOTE: Apply blue Loc-tite to bolts. Do not over tighten bolts.

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KTM 60 SX / 65 SX REPAIR MANUAL ENGINE

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Carburetor adjustment Basic information about the original carburetor setting The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient temperature of approx. 20°C (68°F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95). Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil : super fuel 1:40 . Basic information of changing the carburetor setting Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance. RULE OF THUMB: high altitude or high temperatures  choose leaner carburetor adjustment low altitude or low temperatures  choose richer carburetor adjustment * WARNING * -ONLYUSE PREMIUM – GRADE GASOLINE ROZ 95 MIXED WITH HIGH – GRADE TWO – STROKE ENGINE OIL . OTHER TYPES OF GASOLINE CAN CAUSE ENGINE FAILURE , AND USE OF SAME WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY . -ONLYUSE HIGH – GRADE 2- STROKE ENGINE OIL OF KNOWN BRANDS ( I . E .SHELL ADVANCE RACING X). -NOTENOUGH OIL OR LOW – GRADE OILCAN CAUSE EROSION OF THE PISTON . USING TOO MUCH OIL , THE ENGINE CAN START SMOKING AND FOUL THE SPARKPLUG . -INTHE CASE OFA LEANER ADJUSTMENT OF THE CARBURETOR PROCEED CAUTIOUSLY . ALWAYSREDUCETHEJETSIZEINSTEPSOFONENUMBERTOAVOID OVERHEATING AND PISTON SEIZURE . NOTE: If despite a changed adjustment the engine does not run properly, look for mechanical faults and check the ignition system. Basic information on carburetor wear As a result of engine vibrations, throttle valve, jet needle, and needle jet are subjected to increased wear. This wear may cause carburetor malfunction (e.g., overly rich mixture). Therefore, these parts should be replaced after 1000 hours of using. Idling range – A Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the idle adjusting screw 1 . Only make adjustments when the engine is hot. The idling speed can be changed by turning the idle adjusting screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turning the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Opening up – B Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and part-throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully opened and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high engine speeds, the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level too high or the float needle is leaking. Part-throttle range – C Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the jet needle (shape and position). The optimum part-throttle setting is controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the upper range. If the engine runs on a four-stroke cycle or with reduced power when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be lowered by one notch. If then the engine pings, especially when accelerating under full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised. If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the engine pings, adjust the idling range richer

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Kawasaki Exhausts – ZX-6 ZX-10 Zx-14 Exhaust – Slip-ons INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo

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Kawasaki Ultra/ STX-R Billet Head Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) Remove stock head and clean the top surface of the cylinder. 2) Remove the stock water fittings from the stock head and install them in the ADA head in the same order. 3) Install all o’rings in the ADA billet head, use small amounts of grease to hold them in place, do not use super glue or silicone. 4) Apply a small amount of grease to the small (OR020) o’ring at the top of the dome. This will allow the dome to easily slip into the head shell. Be careful when turning the head upside down to install onto the cylinder, as the domes can slide out of the head shell. 5) Make sure all the o’rings are in place and place the head on top of the cylinder with the water outlets on the top side. You must be sure that none of the o’rings slip out of their groove, as this will cause an o’ring to get pinched and a water or compression leak could result. 6) Use the additional 8mm flat washers on the taller studs, along with the stock wash- ers. 7) Torque all of the nuts to 15ft/lbs, in a center-out criss-cross pattern. Now, torque them again to 18ft/lbs. 8) After the 1st time out riding the head should be re-torqued

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