how to put a timing chain on a honda cr250 dirt bike

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MOTORCYCLE ROLLER CHAIN Maintenance and Lubrication

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-11-2010

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Cleaning and Relubrication Perhaps the largest contributor to shortened chain life is inadequate lubrica- tion. All working parts of a chain should be lubricated uniformly. The use of the highest viscosity oil that allows for flow between the link plates and coats pin-bushing areas will normally provide the greatest wear resistance. Apply oil to the upper edges of link plates. This allows for the greatest access of oil to pin-bushing joints. For open drives, excess lubrication on outer chain surfaces should be removed, since it will either be thrown off during operation or serve to collect foreign materials. If foreign objects or surplus lubrication accumulates on chain surfaces to the extent of making re-lubrication of the joints impossible, the chain must be cleaned. Standard roller chains may be cleaned by washing in kerosene or any other good petroleum-based solvent. WARNING: These solvents are flammable. Agitate the chain to assure penetration of the solvent and a thorough flushing of the pin-bushing areas. Drain off excess solvent and inspect bushings and pins for wear. Replace the chain if wear is excessive or parts are fractured or missing. O-ring chains may be cleaned externallyby washing in kerosene. Do not use any other cleaning agent or the O-rings may be damaged. When cleaning O- ring chain, clean only the external areas of the chain. Do not attempt to force kerosene into the pin-bush cavity. Do not try to repair a worn-out chain by replacing individual links. The pitch of the new links will be shorter and will most likely result in chain fatigue failure and/or severe sprocket damage. For chains which are still usable, soak them in SAE 40 or 50 automotive engine oil (without additives). Flexing the chain in oil will assure greater penetration of lubricant. Inspect and clean sprockets. If sprockets are worn or damaged, they should be replaced.Installing new chain on worn out sprockets will significantly shorten the chain’s service life. WARNING: always wear eye protection when assembling or disassembling chain

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HONDA GL1800 TIMING CHAIN COVER INSPECTION NUT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 28-02-2011

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GL1800 TIMING CHAIN COVER INSPECTION NUT 1. Place bike on center stand. 2. Remove the inspection nut on the bike using a 17mm socket. 3. Remove the rubber o-ring seal from the inspection nut and place on new inspection nut. 4. Install the new inspection nut using the 17mm socket.

Harley-Davidson touring bikes WHEELDOCK EZ-UP Center Stand Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 18-04-2012

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Unlike other center stands, the WHEELDOCK EZ UP stand requires very little effort to operate and can usually be done while still on the bike by simply pushing down on the foot lever with your left foot. Once you feel both feet of the center stand in contact with the ground, transfer your weight up off of the seat and onto the foot lever of the center stand. The stand should rotate under the bike and a bit forward lifting the bike quite easily. CAUTION: Never attempt to raise the bike with a passenger on board, as you will damage the foot lever. You can also raise the bike on the center stand by using the following traditional method: Place the bike on the side stand and step off to the side. From the left side of the bike, push the bike up to the vertical position and press down on the foot lever until both feet of the stand are in contact with the ground. Now apply weight to the foot lever while lifting up on the bike. For cleaning the rear wheel: first place a ½-inch piece of plywood under the stand and use this (beside the bike) method for placing the bike up on the plywood spacer; this will allow the wheel to rotate freely for cleaning. Do not try this while on the bike, as it will require too much foot pressure on the lever. You now have two options to get the bike off of the stand: You can simply rock the bike forward, or put the bike in gear and drive off in most cases as long as you are parked on a flat, level surface. Tips for solving common problems: If you have the correct height stand and you still have difficulty getting the bike up on the stand check the following: the bike must be in neutral, the wheel should be straight forward and not cocked, do not hold the front brake lever and make sure you have 15 lb or more air pressure in the rear suspension. These are the most common problems we encounter.

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Harley-Davidson The WHEELDOCK EZ-UP Center Stand Installation MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-03-2012

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Unlike other center stands, the WHEELDOCK EZ UP stand requires very little effort to operate and can usually be done while still on the bike by simply pushing down on the foot lever with your left foot. Once you feel both feet of the center stand in contact with the ground, transfer your weight up off of the seat and onto the foot lever of the center stand. The stand should rotate under the bike and a bit forward lifting the bike quite easily. CAUTION: Never attempt to raise the bike with a passenger on board, as you will damage the foot lever. You can also raise the bike on the center stand by using the following traditional method: Place the bike on the side stand and step off to the side. From the left side of the bike, push the bike up to the vertical position and press down on the foot lever until both feet of the stand are in contact with the ground. Now apply weight to the foot lever while lifting up on the bike. For cleaning the rear wheel: first place a ½-inch piece of plywood under the stand and use this (beside the bike) method for placing the bike up on the plywood spacer; this will allow the wheel to rotate freely for cleaning. Do not try this while on the bike, as it will require too much foot pressure on the lever. You now have two options to get the bike off of the stand: You can simply rock the bike forward, or put the bike in gear and drive off in most cases as long as you are parked on a flat, level surface. Tips for solving common questions: If you have the correct height stand and you still have difficulty getting the bike up on the stand check the following: the bike must be in neutral, the wheel should be straight forward and not cocked, do not hold the front brake lever and make sure you have 15 lb or more air pressure in the rear suspension. These are the most common problems we encounter

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Yamaha YZ 250F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 30-12-2011

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Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the intake camshaft cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Fit the half moon shaped retainers in the grooves of the Hot Cams camshaft bearings to ensure good fit, set retainers aside for the time. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets, bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head, and pack some in the camshaft bearings. Set the exhaust cam into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. The cam chain pulls the camshaft sprockets in a counter clockwise direction and the slack of the chain must be kept on the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. The exhaust cam has two timing marks on it. When correctly installed one mark will be at the 9 o’clock position and the other mark will be at the 12 o’clock position. When correctly timed the mark at 9 o’clock will be aligned with the valve cover gasket surface. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. The intake cam has two timing marks also. One at 12 o’clock and the other at 3 o’clock. When both cams are installed correctly, the valve cover gasket surface will form a straight line through the exhaust timing mark at 9 o’clock and the intake timing mark at 3 o’clock

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Harley-Davidson CHAIN DRIVE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-04-2012

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1) Assemble & install the chain tensioner assembly over the primary chain as shown in figure 1. 2) Install the compensator sprocket with extender & spacer (numbers 5, 6, & 7, FIG 2)(#7 is not included in this kit), primary chain, chain tensioner, and clutch basket simultaneously onto the motor drive shaft & transmission main shaft. Rotate the chain drive slightly as needed to allow the splines to line-up. 3) Install the chain tensioner nut loosely on the chain tensioner bolt. 4) Install the sliding cam onto the compensator sprocket, & slide the compensating sprocket cover-assembly (#3) over the cam. 5) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “Red” thread-lock on the threads of the motor drive shaft, & install the motor nut loosely with the fingers at this time. The hex spacer (#7) and spacer (#2) as seen in fig.2 are not provided in Rivera Engineering’s chain drive kit. These components are required with some applications, and can be purchased from your local Harley-Davidson dealer. FIG 2 6) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “red” thread-lock on the threads of the transmission main-shaft and loosely install the clutch hub nut (left hand threads). 7) Place the HD “Primary Drive Locking Tool” HD-41214 on the primary chain as shown in figure XXX and tighten the motor sprocket nut to 150-165 foot-pounds. 8)Turn the locking tool 180 degrees and move it to the clutch sprocket. Tighten the clutch hub nut to 70-80 foot pounds (left- hand thread). Adjust chain tension so that the top strand has 5/8″- to-7/8″ of up and down play (cold drive train). Tighten the center bolt nut to 21-29 foot pounds of torque.

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240 Sport Bike Swingarm Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 02-12-2010

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Motorcycles can be dangerous if not properly maintained and ridden safely. RC Components has no control over the usage of any of its parts. RC Components expects its customers to exercise good judgment as to the proper selection, installation, use, and maintenance of any parts. RC Components assumes no responsibility for damage or injury of any kind because of the misuse or improper application of any parts in any way by any person. RC Components expects the end user to exercise good judgment. • Before installing this kit, read through these directions completely. This will familiarize you with the way in which the parts fit together and the tools needed to complete the job. • Before performing any installation steps, disconnect the motorcycle’s battery to eliminate any possibility of electrical damage or personal injury due to a short circuit. Part Number: NSTSB240 Page 2 of 12 Materials Needed: • Hardware Kit. Kit includes (See picture below): 04-05 GSXR750-600 & 03-04 GSXR1000 Kit Inboard Brake Kit Part Number: INSTSB240 Page 3 of 12 04-05 GSXR750-600 & 03-04 GSXR1000 Kit for Stock Caliper 08 Busa Kit for Inboard Brake Part Number: INSTSB240 Page 4 of 12 05-06 GSXR 1000 Kit for Inboard Brake
Part Number: INSTSB240 Page 5 of 12 05-06 GSXR1000 Kit for Stock Caliper 99-07 Busa Kit for Inboard Brake
Part Number: INSTSB240 Page 6 of 12 99-07 Busa Kit for Stock Caliper Tools Needed: • Bike Specific Service Manual (Refer to manual for all torque specs and tools that are not specified by RC Components.) • Assorted hand tools, metric and standard sockets and wrenches. • Hoist or other means to lift bike. • Torque wrench • Loctite, and anti-seize • Chain breaker • Bike specific sockets are required for some bikes. (Refer to factory service manual). • Die grinder (for chain to frame clearance on some models) Installation Instructions 1.) Stock Component Removal To begin installing this kit it is necessary to raise the rear end of the bike using a suitable hoist. Be sure to keep the bike centered on the front wheel to keep the bike from tipping over. Once you have the bike lifted and properly secured, begin with the removal of the following stock components ( For detailed information on the removal of these parts, please consult your factory manual) : 1.) Muffler or mufflers 2.) Left side and lower body panels 3.) Voltage regulator (08 model only) 4.) Front sprocket cover 5.) Front sprocket 6.) Chain

1997 Honda CBR 1000 F specifications review

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 20-12-2011

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Front brakes: Dual disc Rear brakes: Single disc Speed and acceleration Top speed: 255.0 km/h (158.4 mph) Power/weight ratio: 0.5745 HP/kg Other specifications Further information Parts and accessories Check out parts and accessories from our partners. Ask questions Join the 97 Honda CBR 1000 F discussion group Insurance, loans, tests Search the web for dealers, loan and insurance costs, tests, customizing, etc. Related bikes List related bikes for comparison of specs Buying a bike starts at Bikez Get a list of related motorbikes before you buy this Honda. Inspect technical data. Look at photos. Read the riders’ comments at the bike’s discussion group. And check out the bike’s reliability, repair costs, etc. Show any 1997 Honda CBR 1000 F for sale on our Bikez.biz Motorcycle Classifieds. You can also sign up for e-mail notification when such bikes are advertised in the future. And advertise your old MC for sale. Our efficient ads are free. You are also welcome to read and submit motorcycle reviews. Rating sample for this Honda bike Value for money for the 1997 Honda CBR 1000 F: (67.1 out of 100) Click here for complete rating. You can also compare bikes.

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1997 Honda CBR 1000 F specifications

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 03-11-2010

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Front brakes: Dual disc Rear brakes: Single disc Speed and acceleration Top speed: 255.0 km/h (158.4 mph) Power/weight ratio: 0.5745 HP/kg Other specifications Further information Parts and accessories Check out parts and accessories from our partners. Ask questions Join the 97 Honda CBR 1000 F discussion group Insurance, loans, tests Search the web for dealers, loan and insurance costs, tests, customizing, etc. Related bikes List related bikes for comparison of specs Buying a bike starts at Bikez Get a list of related motorbikes before you buy this Honda. Inspect technical data. Look at photos. Read the riders’ comments at the bike’s discussion group. And check out the bike’s reliability, repair costs, etc. Show any 1997 Honda CBR 1000 F for sale on our Bikez.biz Motorcycle Classifieds. You can also sign up for e-mail notification when such bikes are advertised in the future. And advertise your old MC for sale. Our efficient ads are free. You are also welcome to read and submit motorcycle reviews. Rating sample for this Honda bike Value for money for the 1997 Honda CBR 1000 F: (67.1 out of 100) Click here for complete rating. You can also compare bikes. Pictures, trademarks and logos of third parties are exclusive property of the respective owners. Technical specifications are subject to change without notice. Bikez.com has been developed by low-cost software development company ObjectLabs

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Honda VT1100 Shadow Guide Plug Patch Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 24-04-2011

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Find the guide plug.bn The guide plug is shown in the shop manual with the engine removed from the frame and the left crankcase cover removed. (You’ll find this illustration in the “ELECTRIC STARTER/STARTER CLUTCH” chapter in the “STARTER DRIVEN GEAR/STARTER CLUTCH REMOVAL” section.) It’s a little bit harder to find it on the bike. Start by following the yardstick to see where the guide plug is on my bike. To find it on your bike, lie on the ground (or, preferably a mechanics creeper) next to the bike (without the yardstick) and peek under the shift lever and over the frame There it is, just barely visible from the side of the bike. Here’s what a new one looks like: 2. Clean the guide plug and crankcase. From the front of the bike, clean the guide plug and crankcase with brake cleaner in a VERY focused spray. Let the cleaner evaporate before moving to the next step. Page 4 Rev: Draft 5/20/2007 Page 4 of 5 3. Reposition the guide plug. a. From the side of the bike, use the yardstick (or a long screwdriver if you prefer) to gently push the guide plug back into the crankcase. (Note the JB Weld from the previous patch operation.) b. From the front of the bike, gently push upward on the bottom of the upper tab (as shown below) or the bottom of the forward tab to rotate the guide plug into the proper position while maintaining pressure with the yardstick

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