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1999-2008 FLHT Series Harley- Davidson Trike Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 04-12-2010

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the ¼ – 20 Phillips head screw and Seat. 6. Disconnect negative Battery Terminal. 7. Remove two ¼ – 20 flanged hex nuts from the Stud Plate. Save the Passenger Handrail and two nuts. 8. Remove the Saddle Bags. 9. Remove the Right and Left Side Covers. 10. Remove Inner Tour Pak Molded Liner. 11. Disconnect the Tour Pak wiring. 12. Remove five ¼ – 20 HHCS, ¼ – 20 nyloc nuts, and Aluminum Spacers. 13. Remove Tour Pak from Top Support Tube. 14. Loosen Muffler Clamp on both Mufflers and remove 2 5/16 – 18 HHCS per Muffler. Remove and discard both Mufflers. Save Muffler Clamps. 15. Remove and discard Muffler Support Plates. 16. Remove both ¼ – 20 HHCS and Front Saddle Bag Brackets. 17. Remove the twelve 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS six 5/16 – 18 nuts, and the Left and Right Saddle Bag Guards. 18. Remove the Air Line Junction from the Rear Fender. 19. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness and remove from T-stud Clip.
6 20. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Phillips head screws. Remove the Left and Right Frame Covers. 21. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove and save the Top Tour Pak Support Tube Top. 22. Remove four 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove the Left and Right Rear Saddle Bag Guard Support Bracket. 23. Remove four 5/16 – 18 HHCS. Remove and save the Tour Pak Support Tube Bottom. 24. Remove and discard the Air Valve Assembly Bracket. 25. Remove four ½ – 13 HHCS and washers. Remove and discard both Rear Air Shock Absorbers. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. 26. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 27. Cut and remove Cable ties and un-clamp Wire Harness Loops from the Rear Brake Line along its length, including Clamps on Swing Arm. 28. Remove the 10 – 24 flanged HHCS and Rear Brake Hose Clamp from the Right Rear Fork Bracket. 29. Remove ¼ – 20 SHCS from Rear Stop Lamp Switch Bracket. 30. Remove and discard Banjo Bolt and Crush Washers on Rear Brake Caliper. 31. Remove the Spring Clip and nut from the Rear Axle. 32. Remove Rear Axle and Rear Wheel Spacers. 33. Push Rear Wheel Assembly forward and slip Rear Belt off of the Rear Sprocket. 34. Remove Rear Brake Caliper. 35. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly rearward. Remove one 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS from inside the Rear Fender well. 36. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly forward. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove Rear Fender. 37. Remove and save the two Retaining Washers from the Stud Plate. Remove and save the Stud Plate

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GL1800 Goldwing Trike Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Disassembly of motorcycle: 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand or lift. 2. Set the shock preload to zero. 3. Remove the four m8 x 1.25 SHCS from the passenger handles and remove seat. 4. Remove the rear side covers. 5. Disconnect negative battery terminal. 6. Remove the four m8 x 1.25 SHCS and the passenger floorboards. 7. Remove the six m5 x 0.80 BHCS and the foot rest under cover. 8. Remove the six m5 x .80 BHCS and the swing arm pivot bolt covers. 9. Remove the four m8 x 1.25 flange bolts on the rear crash guards. Remove and discard the rear crash guards and bolts. 10. Remove the four #2 Phillips head screws from the inside of the trunk to remove the trim pieces on the sides. 11. Remove the two #2 Phillips head screws in the rear trim molding and remove molding. 12. Remove the seven #2 Phillips head screws from the lower trunk cover. Remove the lower trunk cover. 13. Remove the five #2 Phillips head screws from the trunk opener cover. Remove the trunk opener cover. 14. Disconnect the left and right saddlebag release cables. 15. Remove the five m6 x 1.0 BHCS in the rear fender panel. Remove and discard the rear fender panel and cap screws. 16. Disconnect the trunk wiring. 17. Remove the four m6 x 1.0 flange screws. Remove the trunk from the saddlebag / trunk stay. 7 18. 2005 and older 2005 and older 2005 and older 2005 and older ABS equipped motorcycles: ABS equipped motorcycles: ABS equipped motorcycles: ABS equipped motorcycles: Remove rubber bungee from ABS Control Unit, and save for reinstallation. 19. Remove the two side cover grommets from each saddlebag. ( 4 grommets total ) 20. Remove the left and right hand saddlebag latches, strikers, and release cables for core parts return. Refer to Honda service manual. 21. Remove the left and right saddlebag taillights and sub- harnesses for core parts return . Refer to Honda service manual. 22. Remove the four m6 x 1.0 flange bolts from each saddlebag. Remove and discard the saddlebags. 23. Remove the six m6 x 1.0 flange bolts from the exhaust tips. Slide the tip off the muffler body. Save tips and bolts for reinstallation. 24. Loosen the four m8 x 1.25 SHCS on the muffler clamps. Remove the two m8 x 1.25 flange bolts. Remove and discard the mufflers and muffler gaskets. 25. Remove the four m6 x 1.0 BHCS, two rubber washers, and front fender A. 26. Remove the four m5 x .80 BHCS and chrome front fender covers. 27. 2006 & UP. 2006 & UP. 2006 & UP. 2006 & UP. Remove the Remove the Remove the Remove the two m6 x two m6 x two m6 x two m6 x 1.0 flange bolts on 1.0 flange bolts on 1.0 flange bolts on 1.0 flange bolts on rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. 28. Unplug connector and remove amp and save for Unplug connector and remove amp and save for Unplug connector and remove amp and save for Unplug connector and remove amp and save for reinstallation. reinstallation. reinstallation. reinstallation. 29. Cut lower saddlebag supports off the saddlebag/trunk stay, where the round tubing meets the square, and cut the gusset flush, removing any burrs. See Figure 1. 30. Remove trunk stay for later use. 31. Remove the two m5 x .80 nuts on the license plate light. Remove and discard the license plate ligh

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Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster The Freak Installation Instructions and Parts List

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

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KAWASAKI 1500 CARB THUNDER Air Filter Kit Installation And removal Instruction

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) Remove Seat 10mm KAW 1500 CARB ADPTOR QTY PARTS LIST 1 1500 CARB ADAPTOR 1 3″ PIECE OF HOSE 1 DOUBLE BARB 1 L-BARB 1 3/8″ RED PLUG 1 ¼” BLACK VACCUM PLUG 1 M6-1 NYLON INSERT LOCK NUT 3 M6-1 X 16 FLAT SOCKET HD CAP SCREW 1 170 MJ 1 INSTRUCTIONS 2) Remove Dash Plaque 8mm bottom Bolt only 3) Lift from bottom then Remove speedo cable 4) Disconnect Electric Plugs 5) Remove 12mm bolts holding tank 6) Turn petcock OFF – Pinch off fuel line. 7) Disconnect the electric Plug under speedo opening 8) Lift Tank at Rear – Disconnect two Vent Lines; Fuel gage Vent will Pull up – Remove. 9) Remove Chrome Air Cover. 10) Left side Remove two screws – 10mm bolt in side Air box. Pull hoses off Remove 1″ hose going to cross over Tube. 11) Remove two 8mm bolts on Bracket – Remove Bracket 12) Remove Screw on Top of air Box Snorkel 13) Remove both side covers 14) Remove air Backing plate right side (Crank Case Breather hose that connects to stock air box will connect to new) 15) Remove Bracket that holds Carb and holds Backing Plate 16) Take idle adjustable Knob loose – let hang loose 17) Take Choke Knob out of holding Bracket 18) Hose that went to cross over tube MAY BE PLUGGED OR VENTED your Choice (Fresh air unit) ** 98′S or any models with carb warmer should disconnect carb warmer by pinching off line on each side of connector that plugs into carb on bottom. Small bracket with one screw directly on the bottom of carb. 19) Loosen Clamp that holds Carb to intake Manifold, Carb will hang loose 20) Remove intake Manifold 5mm Allen- Remove crossover tube. 21) (- BE CAREFULL-) LINE IT UP RIGHT- Replace intake Manifold (YOU MAY TO SEAL THIS WITH A SEALER LIKE PERMATEX) ( BE SUPER CAREFUL TO KEEP INTAKE COVERED DURING EACH STEP. SCREWS CAN FALL ONTO INTAKE) 22) Drain Float Bowl 3mm allen – very bottom of carb 23) Remove Float Bowl 4 screws (#2 Phillips) let hang down 24) Remove main jet, if Emulsion tube comes out use 8mm and Flat tip to separate jet from Emulsion tube. 25) Install with new jet 26) CAREFULLY Reinstall Float Bowl Cover 27) If installing Needle Remove Top Cover of Carb, Carefully pull the slide out. ( BE CAREFUL WITH DIAPHRAM) Remove Spring + Needle Install new Needle (WE RECOMMEND THE 3RD CLIP FROM TOP WITH TWO WASHERS ON TOP. REINSTALL 28) Be sure to reseat diaphragm – BE CAREFUL Reinstall Cover. 29) Install Carb to Intake – reconnect carb warmer if applicable 30) Reattach idle adjustment 31) Reattach Choke 32) Reattach Bracket in front of Carb- 33) Take Center bolt mount Rubber Gromlet from Stock Air box Plate install in to new Air box Adapter use stock Bolt, Attach to Bracke

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2009 – Current Harley Davidson Trike Conversion Kit INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 27-02-2012

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the ¼ – 20 Phillips head screw and Seat. 6. Disconnect and REMOVE battery. 7. Remove two ¼ – 20 flanged hex nuts from the Stud Plate. Remove and save the Passenger Handrail and two ¼ – 20 flanged hex head nuts if equipped. 8. Remove the Saddle Bags. 9. Remove the Right and Left Side Covers. 10. Remove Inner Tour Pak Molded Liner. 11. Disconnect the Tour Pak wiring. 12. Remove four ¼ – 20 HHCS. 13. Remove Tour Pak from Top Support Tube. 14. Remove both saddlebag support rails. 15. Loosen Muffler Clamps on both Mufflers and remove two 5/16 – 18 HHCS per Muffler. Remove and discard both Mufflers. Save Muffler Clamps. 16. Remove right side rear heat shield. 17. Remove and discard Muffler Support Plates. 18. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness and remove from T-stud Clip. 19. Remove four frame cover fasteners and the Left and Right Frame Covers. 20. Remove four Tour Pak Support fasteners and the Tour Pak Support.
7 21. Remove four rear fender fasteners and rear fender. 22. Remove four ½ – 13 HHCS and washers. Remove and discard Rear Air Shocks, Air lines and Air Valve bracket. 23. NOTE: NOTE: NOTE: NOTE: If motorcycle is A.B.S. Equipped refer to A.B.S. Installation Instructions. WARNING: WARNING: WARNING: WARNING: If A.B.S. Equipped DO NOT drain brake fluid. 24. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 25. Cut and remove Cable ties and un-clamp Wire Harness Loops from the Rear Brake Line along its length, including Clamps on Swing Arm. 26. Remove and discard Banjo Bolt and Crush Washers on Rear Brake Caliper. 27. Remove the Spring Clip and nut from the Rear Axle. 28. Remove Rear Axle and Rear Wheel Spacers. 29. Push Rear Wheel Assembly forward and slip Rear Belt off of the Rear Sprocket. 30. Remove Rear Brake Caliper. 31. Remove and save the two Retaining Washers from the Stud Plate. Remove and save the Stud Plate. 32. Remove Rear Wheel Assembly. 33. Remove two 3/8 – 16 SHCS. Remove Passenger Footboards.

KTM 250/ 300/ 380 SX,MXC,EXC ENGINE REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Repair manual KTM 250 / 300 / 380 Art No 3206004 -E 2-2C main jet jet needle jet needle air control screw idle adjusting screw idle jet throttle valve Idling range A Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the position of the air control screw 1 and the idle adjusting screw 2 . Only make adjustments when the engine is hot. To this end, slightly increase the idling speed of the engine by means of the idle adjusting screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turning the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Create a round and stable engine speed using the air control screw (basic position of the air control screw = open by 1.5 turns). Then adjust to the normal idling speed by means of the idle adjusting screw. Opening up B Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and part-throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully opened and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high engine speeds, the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level too high or the float needle is leaking. Part-throttle range C Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the jet needle (shape and position). The optimum part-throttle setting is controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the upper range. If the engine runs on a four-stroke cycle or with reduced power when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be lowered by one notch. If then the engine pings, especially when accelerating under full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised. If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the engine pings, adjust the idling range richer. Full throttle range D Operation with the throttle fully open (flat out). This range is influenced by the main jet and the jet needle. If the porcelain of the new spark plug is found to have a very bright or white coating or if the engine rings, after a short distance of riding flat out, a larger main jet is required. If the porcelain is dark brown or black with soot the main jet must be replaced by a smaller one. mixture too rich: too much fuel in proportion to air mixture too lean: not enough fuel in proportion to air 1 2 OPERATING RANGES OF THE CARBURETOR 2-3C Carburetor adjustment Basic information on the original carburetor setting The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient temperature of approx. 20°C (68°F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95 MOZ). Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil : super fuel 1:40 – 1:60. Basic information on a change of the carburetor setting Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance. RULE OF THUMB:

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HARLEY DAVIDSON COMFORT PROFILE REAR SADDLEBAG GUARD KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-03-2011

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REMOVAL 1. Remove saddlebags from motorcycle following the instructions in the service manual. 2. See Figure 3. Remove grab strap screw and washer (G). Remove grab strap (H). Remove seat following the instructions in the service manual. 3. Remove left and right side covers (located in front of saddlebags) by removing screw from bottom of side cover. Save hardware and side covers for final assembly. 4. Support muffler assembly with a block of wood or other suitable method. For FLTR and FLHX Models 1. See Figure 3. Remove the screws (F) securing saddlebag guards to muffler supports. 2. Remove bolt (M) and nut (P). Save bolt (M) for installation. Discard nut (P). 3. Remove screws (B and C) and nut (E). Save screws (B and C) for installation. Discard nut (E). 4. Remove stud receptacle (I) and save for installation. 5. See Figure 1. Remove antenna bracket (1), mounting fasteners (2), antenna mounting nut (5), washer (4) and antenna adapter (3). Save the antenna and hardware, discard the bracket. 6. Remove support (D) and discard. 7. Repeat Steps 1 through 4 for other side. For FLHTCU and FLHTC Models 1. Remove and discard screws (X) and guard rail mounts (W and V). 2. Remove screw (Q) and rear guards (U). Discard rear guard assembly including screws (T) and clamps (R and S). Discard screw (Q). 3. Remove and discard screw (K) and nut (L). 4. Remove screws (N and C) and nut (E). Save screw (C) for installation. Discard nut (E), screw (N) and forward guard. 5. Repeat Steps 1 through 5 for other side. For All Other Models 1. Remove screws (N and C) and nut (E). Save screw (C) for installation. Discard nut (E) and screw (N). 2. Remove and discard screw (K) and nut (L). 3. Remove forward guard and discard. 4. Repeat for other side

Harley-Davidson Softail Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-12-2010

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the fasteners that secure the seat. Remove seat. 6. Disconnect negative Battery Terminal. 7. Remove the Saddle Bags. And their hardware. If equipped. 8. Loosen Muffler Clamp on both Mufflers and other attaching hardware. Remove and discard both Mufflers. 9. Loosen the 4 exhaust stud nuts and save. Remove and discard head pipes and exhaust gaskets. 10. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness. 11. Remove any fasteners from Electrical Box. 12. Remove and discard Rear Fender, Fender Support and fasteners. NOTE: 2008-Current various models. Remove ECM from Fender and save nuts. 13. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 14. Un-clamp Rear Brake Line from the frame and Rear Fork. 15. Remove and discard both Banjo Bolts and Crush Washers from the Rear Brake Caliper and the Rear Brake Master Cylinder. 16. Remove Brake Light Switch from the Brake line, Save for reassembly. 17. Remove the Torx screw from the Brake Line bracket, Save the Torx screw for reassembly. 18. Remove and Discard Brake Line. 19. If Lower Controls option. Remove and Discard right and left floorboards/foot pegs, brake pedal, shifter, and shift linkage. Remove and Discard Passenger Foot pegs or Floorboards and their mounts. Then skip to step 24. 20. If Lower Controls Not purchased. Continue. 21. Remove acorn nut from Shift Linkage. 22. Remove 3 fasteners from Drivers Floorboard and remove. 23. Remove and discard Jiffy Stand. 24. Remove the Primary Cover by first removing the top and rear inspection cover screws. 25. Continue by removing remaining fasteners. 14 total. 26. Remove and discard Primary Cover Gasket. 27. Clean residual gasket material from both surfaces. 28. Loosen the Top Center Nut on the Primary Chain Adjuster. Lower the Primary Chain Adjuster until it rests flat on the Inner Primary Cover. 29. Remove the Clutch Lifter Retaining Ring from the Clutch Basket. Remove Clutch Lifter Assembly. 30. Using the Primary Drive Locking Tool. Loosen the Compensating Sprocket Nut. 31. Using the Primary Drive Locking Tool. Loosen the Clutch Hub Main shaft Nut. WARNING: This nut is LEFT HAND threaded. 32. Remove the Primary Drive Locking Tool, Compensating Sprocket Nut, and Clutch Hub Main shaft Nut. 33. Remove the Sprocket cover and Sliding Cam from the Crank Shaft Extension. 34. Remove the Clutch Assembly, Primary Chain, Compensating Sprocket, and Crank Shaft Extension in one assembly.

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How To Adjust the Accelerator Pump On the 40mm Mikuni Carburetor

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 21-01-2012

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1) The “blue” colored screw in the image is the duration adjustment screw. Underneath the head of the screw is a lock nut and the bracket arm that the screw is threaded into. To decrease the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned “clockwise” or in. To increase the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned “counter clockwise” or out. To get the max, amount of decrease remove the screw and take the lock nut off of the screw. Then replace the screw into the cam arm, then replace the lock nut underneath the arm on the screw. this gives you another 3/32″ of an inch in which the screw can be screwed in.
2) Turn the adjustment screw fully clockwise or IN. Start your engine, Blip your throttle open, if the engine stutters, (hesitates), it is not getting enough fuel so turn the screw counter clockwise to increase the amount of fuel squirted from the accelerator pump into the carburetor. Keep blipping the throttle and adjusting the screw till the carburetor starts to cough. Stop here and turn the screw back in till the coughing stops. Tighten down the lock nut. This should give you the best throttle response with the least amount of coughing and backfiring out the carburetor. Timing Adjustment Screw This is the “Green” colored screw just above the Blue duration adjustment screw. The” Mucker” said it best,,,,, This upper screw adjusts the “timing” of the squirt. By altering it’s setting, you can advance or delay the onset of the fuel squirt. But probably, it won’t have to be touched

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SUZUKI SV1000 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 26-02-2011

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MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP PRO- CEDURES This section describes the servicing procedures for each item of the Periodic Maintenance requirements. AIR CLEANER I Inspect every 6 000 km (4 000 miles, 6 months) and replace every 18 000 km (11 000 miles, 18 months) . • * Remove the seat. (LF6-7) • * Lift and support the feul tank . (C-74-65) • * Remove the air cleaner box cap O. • * Remove the air cleaner element O. • * Carefully use air hose to blow the dust from the cleaner ele- ment. CAUTION Always use air pressure on the throttle body side of the air cleaner element . If air pressure is used on the other side, dirt will be forced into the pores of the air cleaner element thus restricting air flow through the air cleaner element . PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-5 2-6PERIODIC MAINTENANCE • * Reinstall the cleaned or new air cleaner element in the reverse order of removal . CAUTION If driving under dusty condition, clean the air cleaner element more frequently. The surest way to accelerate engine wear is to use the engine without the element or to use a ruptured element. Make sure that the air cleaner is in good condition at all times. Life of the engine depends largely on this component! NOTE: When cleaning the air cleaner element, drain water from the air cleaner by removing the drain plug . SPARK PLUG Inspect every 6 000 km (4 000 miles, 6 months) and replace every 12 000 km (7 500 miles, 12 months) . No. 1 (FRONT) SPARK PLUG REMOVAL • * Remove the radiator mounting bolt O. • * Move the radiator forward. • * Remove the spark plug cap O. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the radiator fins . A WARNING The hot radiator and the hot engine can burn you . Wait until the radiator and the engine are cool enough to touch . • * Remove the spark plug with a spark plug wrench. 1 6 I It No. 2 (REAR) SPARK PLUG REMOVAL • * Remove the seat. (r–,-6-7) • * Lift and support the fuel tank . (=4-65) 4-65) • * Disconnect the camshaft position sensor 1O and breather hose (Z. • * Remove the rubber heat shield ® . • * Remove the spark plug cap . • * Remove the spark plug with a spark plug wrench . HEAT RANGE • * Check to see the heat range of the plug . CARBON DEPOSIT •Check to see if there are carbon deposits on the plugs . If carbon is deposited, remove it with a spark plug cleaner machine or carefully using a tool with a pointed end . SPARK PLUG GAP • * Measure the plug gap with a thickness gauge . If out of specification, adjust it to the following gap . 09900-20803 : Thickness gauge Spark plug gap OA Standard: 0.6 – 0 .7 mm (0.024 -0.028 in) ELECTRODES CONDITION •Check to see the worn or burnt condition of the electrodes . If it is extremely worn or burnt, replace the plug . And also replace the plug if it has a broken insulator, damaged thread . CAUTION Confirm the thread size and reach when replacing the plug. If the reach is too short, carbon will be deposited on the screw portion of the plug hole and engine damage may result

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