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GL1800 Goldwing Trike Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Disassembly of motorcycle: 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand or lift. 2. Set the shock preload to zero. 3. Remove the four m8 x 1.25 SHCS from the passenger handles and remove seat. 4. Remove the rear side covers. 5. Disconnect negative battery terminal. 6. Remove the four m8 x 1.25 SHCS and the passenger floorboards. 7. Remove the six m5 x 0.80 BHCS and the foot rest under cover. 8. Remove the six m5 x .80 BHCS and the swing arm pivot bolt covers. 9. Remove the four m8 x 1.25 flange bolts on the rear crash guards. Remove and discard the rear crash guards and bolts. 10. Remove the four #2 Phillips head screws from the inside of the trunk to remove the trim pieces on the sides. 11. Remove the two #2 Phillips head screws in the rear trim molding and remove molding. 12. Remove the seven #2 Phillips head screws from the lower trunk cover. Remove the lower trunk cover. 13. Remove the five #2 Phillips head screws from the trunk opener cover. Remove the trunk opener cover. 14. Disconnect the left and right saddlebag release cables. 15. Remove the five m6 x 1.0 BHCS in the rear fender panel. Remove and discard the rear fender panel and cap screws. 16. Disconnect the trunk wiring. 17. Remove the four m6 x 1.0 flange screws. Remove the trunk from the saddlebag / trunk stay. 7 18. 2005 and older 2005 and older 2005 and older 2005 and older ABS equipped motorcycles: ABS equipped motorcycles: ABS equipped motorcycles: ABS equipped motorcycles: Remove rubber bungee from ABS Control Unit, and save for reinstallation. 19. Remove the two side cover grommets from each saddlebag. ( 4 grommets total ) 20. Remove the left and right hand saddlebag latches, strikers, and release cables for core parts return. Refer to Honda service manual. 21. Remove the left and right saddlebag taillights and sub- harnesses for core parts return . Refer to Honda service manual. 22. Remove the four m6 x 1.0 flange bolts from each saddlebag. Remove and discard the saddlebags. 23. Remove the six m6 x 1.0 flange bolts from the exhaust tips. Slide the tip off the muffler body. Save tips and bolts for reinstallation. 24. Loosen the four m8 x 1.25 SHCS on the muffler clamps. Remove the two m8 x 1.25 flange bolts. Remove and discard the mufflers and muffler gaskets. 25. Remove the four m6 x 1.0 BHCS, two rubber washers, and front fender A. 26. Remove the four m5 x .80 BHCS and chrome front fender covers. 27. 2006 & UP. 2006 & UP. 2006 & UP. 2006 & UP. Remove the Remove the Remove the Remove the two m6 x two m6 x two m6 x two m6 x 1.0 flange bolts on 1.0 flange bolts on 1.0 flange bolts on 1.0 flange bolts on rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. 28. Unplug connector and remove amp and save for Unplug connector and remove amp and save for Unplug connector and remove amp and save for Unplug connector and remove amp and save for reinstallation. reinstallation. reinstallation. reinstallation. 29. Cut lower saddlebag supports off the saddlebag/trunk stay, where the round tubing meets the square, and cut the gusset flush, removing any burrs. See Figure 1. 30. Remove trunk stay for later use. 31. Remove the two m5 x .80 nuts on the license plate light. Remove and discard the license plate ligh

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1999-2008 FLHT Series Harley- Davidson Trike Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 04-12-2010

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the ¼ – 20 Phillips head screw and Seat. 6. Disconnect negative Battery Terminal. 7. Remove two ¼ – 20 flanged hex nuts from the Stud Plate. Save the Passenger Handrail and two nuts. 8. Remove the Saddle Bags. 9. Remove the Right and Left Side Covers. 10. Remove Inner Tour Pak Molded Liner. 11. Disconnect the Tour Pak wiring. 12. Remove five ¼ – 20 HHCS, ¼ – 20 nyloc nuts, and Aluminum Spacers. 13. Remove Tour Pak from Top Support Tube. 14. Loosen Muffler Clamp on both Mufflers and remove 2 5/16 – 18 HHCS per Muffler. Remove and discard both Mufflers. Save Muffler Clamps. 15. Remove and discard Muffler Support Plates. 16. Remove both ¼ – 20 HHCS and Front Saddle Bag Brackets. 17. Remove the twelve 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS six 5/16 – 18 nuts, and the Left and Right Saddle Bag Guards. 18. Remove the Air Line Junction from the Rear Fender. 19. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness and remove from T-stud Clip.
6 20. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Phillips head screws. Remove the Left and Right Frame Covers. 21. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove and save the Top Tour Pak Support Tube Top. 22. Remove four 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove the Left and Right Rear Saddle Bag Guard Support Bracket. 23. Remove four 5/16 – 18 HHCS. Remove and save the Tour Pak Support Tube Bottom. 24. Remove and discard the Air Valve Assembly Bracket. 25. Remove four ½ – 13 HHCS and washers. Remove and discard both Rear Air Shock Absorbers. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. 26. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 27. Cut and remove Cable ties and un-clamp Wire Harness Loops from the Rear Brake Line along its length, including Clamps on Swing Arm. 28. Remove the 10 – 24 flanged HHCS and Rear Brake Hose Clamp from the Right Rear Fork Bracket. 29. Remove ¼ – 20 SHCS from Rear Stop Lamp Switch Bracket. 30. Remove and discard Banjo Bolt and Crush Washers on Rear Brake Caliper. 31. Remove the Spring Clip and nut from the Rear Axle. 32. Remove Rear Axle and Rear Wheel Spacers. 33. Push Rear Wheel Assembly forward and slip Rear Belt off of the Rear Sprocket. 34. Remove Rear Brake Caliper. 35. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly rearward. Remove one 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS from inside the Rear Fender well. 36. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly forward. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove Rear Fender. 37. Remove and save the two Retaining Washers from the Stud Plate. Remove and save the Stud Plate

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POLINI X1 GENERAL INFORMATION AND SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Polini) by admin on 02-12-2010

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Air cleaner – Clean and reoil daily or after each moto to prevent motor failure and reduced performance. Transmission oil – change after every race, or at end of riding day. Chain – check tension and lubricate before every ride, adjust or replace as needed. Reoil after riding in damp conditions. Clutch – disassemble and clean clutch assembly frequently, every 2-3 races at least. Inspect kickstarter gears at this time. Ignition cover – remove cover and wipe dry after each ride or after washing bike to remove condensation. Piston rings – replace as often as every 3-5 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Piston, pin, rod bearing & circlips – replace as often as every 8-10 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Coolant – change yearly, make sure there is at least a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze if freezing temperatures are possible. Steering bearings – Check daily for looseness or play. Adjust and regrease as needed. Swingarm – Check often for looseness. Regrease several times a year. Replace bushings if any play is evident. Sprockets – check for worn or curved teeth each time chain is adjusted. Chain roller& wear pads – check roller for free rotation when checking chain. Make sure roller is not bent or damaged. Check chain wear strips on swingarm and chain guide frequently. Replace as needed to prevent chain from damaging motorcycle. Spokes – Check after each race or after each day of riding for looseness or damage. Wheels & tires – check wheels after each race for dents, cracks or other damage. Check tires for cuts, damage or wear. Check tire pressure daily and adjust for riding conditions. Shock – Check shaft area daily for signs of oil leakage or damage. Check swingarm and shock bushings for looseness. Forks – Check forks daily for leaking oil or damage to tubes. Make sure forks are not twisted check for smooth operation. Spark plug – check sparkplug color and condition after each race or end of riding day. Adjust jetting to keep plug from fouling or overheating. Silencer – If bike seems to be getting louder, replace packing and decarbonize inner tube. Expansion pipe – check daily for large dents, damage or leakage. Remove carbon from headpipe when pipe is removed. Have large dents fixed, or any dents within 8″ of the cylinder. Replace o-rings on pipe as needed to maintain a good seal. Footpegs – check daily for proper operation, pegs should spring back into place. Make sure pegs are not bent or overly dull. Handlebars – check bars after any crash for bending. Look for cracks near bar clamps. Replace bars that have been straightened more than 2 or three times, or if bar is badly bent. Aweakened bar can snap suddenly causing injury to rider. Throttle – check throttle for proper operation each time before bike is started. Remove and clean inside of grip and bar as needed. Grips – check grips daily for wear or looseness. Replace as needed. Use grip glue & safety wire to help hold grips in position. Calipers & pads – check pad wear and caliper function daily or after each race. Replace pads and clean calipers as needed. Brake lever – check lever daily for damage or wear. Make sure lever is at proper angle for both seated and standing positions. Leave lever clamp loose enough to allow clamp to rotate during crash rather than breaking lever. Check and adjust freeplay as needed. Brake pedal – Check pedal daily for damage and proper freeplay. Adjust rear caliper as needed. Reeds – Remove and inspect reed block during every ring change. Check reeds for signs of wear, fraying and cracking. Make sure reeds sit flat and seal well. Replace at any sign of wear or damage or at least once a year, more often for expert riders. Nuts & bolts – Check all nuts and bolts regularly. Make sure to check engine mounting bolts and swingarm bolt frequently

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2009 – Current Harley Davidson Trike Conversion Kit INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 27-02-2012

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the ¼ – 20 Phillips head screw and Seat. 6. Disconnect and REMOVE battery. 7. Remove two ¼ – 20 flanged hex nuts from the Stud Plate. Remove and save the Passenger Handrail and two ¼ – 20 flanged hex head nuts if equipped. 8. Remove the Saddle Bags. 9. Remove the Right and Left Side Covers. 10. Remove Inner Tour Pak Molded Liner. 11. Disconnect the Tour Pak wiring. 12. Remove four ¼ – 20 HHCS. 13. Remove Tour Pak from Top Support Tube. 14. Remove both saddlebag support rails. 15. Loosen Muffler Clamps on both Mufflers and remove two 5/16 – 18 HHCS per Muffler. Remove and discard both Mufflers. Save Muffler Clamps. 16. Remove right side rear heat shield. 17. Remove and discard Muffler Support Plates. 18. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness and remove from T-stud Clip. 19. Remove four frame cover fasteners and the Left and Right Frame Covers. 20. Remove four Tour Pak Support fasteners and the Tour Pak Support.
7 21. Remove four rear fender fasteners and rear fender. 22. Remove four ½ – 13 HHCS and washers. Remove and discard Rear Air Shocks, Air lines and Air Valve bracket. 23. NOTE: NOTE: NOTE: NOTE: If motorcycle is A.B.S. Equipped refer to A.B.S. Installation Instructions. WARNING: WARNING: WARNING: WARNING: If A.B.S. Equipped DO NOT drain brake fluid. 24. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 25. Cut and remove Cable ties and un-clamp Wire Harness Loops from the Rear Brake Line along its length, including Clamps on Swing Arm. 26. Remove and discard Banjo Bolt and Crush Washers on Rear Brake Caliper. 27. Remove the Spring Clip and nut from the Rear Axle. 28. Remove Rear Axle and Rear Wheel Spacers. 29. Push Rear Wheel Assembly forward and slip Rear Belt off of the Rear Sprocket. 30. Remove Rear Brake Caliper. 31. Remove and save the two Retaining Washers from the Stud Plate. Remove and save the Stud Plate. 32. Remove Rear Wheel Assembly. 33. Remove two 3/8 – 16 SHCS. Remove Passenger Footboards.

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Lambretta UNO50 Owners Manual

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Filed Under (Lambretta) by admin on 25-11-2010

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brakes: Inspect brake cables/hoses/linkage for correct mounting, chafing, leaks and damage. Check and adjust both front and rear brakes. If hydraulic, check fluid level and correct if necessary (DOT 4 fluid only). Engine: Check and correct the engine oil level. Fuel system: Check fuel tank, carburetor, fuel valve and all hoses for leaks. Throttle system: Check for correct throttle cable routing. Throttle operates smoothly and self-returns to idle from all handlebar positions. Wheels/tires: Check wheels, tires and valve stem for damage, etc. Check and adjust tire pressures. 11 Suspension: Check for smooth suspension operation. Lubricate all grease points using correct specification grease. Check for correct suspension adjustments. Inspect fork and shock seals for leaks. Steering: Check for smooth steering operation and handlebar bearings for proper adjustments. Electrical Systems: Check for correct function of all side, headlight (high/low beam) and taillights, turn indicators, brake lights, warning lights and instrument illumination. Check for correct horn operation. Check harnesses for correct routing. Check for correct function of starter lockout system. Check for correct engine stop switch operation. Check for correct function of the low oil warning light. (2 stroke only) Emission Systems: Check connections and hoses for routing and kinks.
12 Fastening hardware: Check front and rear axle nut and bolt torque. Check torque of drain plug and oil filter bolt. Check torque of all brake system nuts and bolts. Check torque of all steering system mounting hardware. Check torque of exhaust mounting hardware. Check torque of all remaining nuts, bolts & screws. Road test Front and rear brake operation. (approx. 10km): Check cold engine start performance. Evaluate performance, handling and braking. After road testing: Check hot engine starting. Check and adjust idle speed. Check for oil and fuel leaks. Make necessary adjustments and repair any defects seen or observed before, during and after test drive. Retest as necessary. Clean the vehicle prior to deliver

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KAWASAKI 1500 CARB THUNDER Air Filter Kit Installation And removal Instruction

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) Remove Seat 10mm KAW 1500 CARB ADPTOR QTY PARTS LIST 1 1500 CARB ADAPTOR 1 3″ PIECE OF HOSE 1 DOUBLE BARB 1 L-BARB 1 3/8″ RED PLUG 1 ¼” BLACK VACCUM PLUG 1 M6-1 NYLON INSERT LOCK NUT 3 M6-1 X 16 FLAT SOCKET HD CAP SCREW 1 170 MJ 1 INSTRUCTIONS 2) Remove Dash Plaque 8mm bottom Bolt only 3) Lift from bottom then Remove speedo cable 4) Disconnect Electric Plugs 5) Remove 12mm bolts holding tank 6) Turn petcock OFF – Pinch off fuel line. 7) Disconnect the electric Plug under speedo opening 8) Lift Tank at Rear – Disconnect two Vent Lines; Fuel gage Vent will Pull up – Remove. 9) Remove Chrome Air Cover. 10) Left side Remove two screws – 10mm bolt in side Air box. Pull hoses off Remove 1″ hose going to cross over Tube. 11) Remove two 8mm bolts on Bracket – Remove Bracket 12) Remove Screw on Top of air Box Snorkel 13) Remove both side covers 14) Remove air Backing plate right side (Crank Case Breather hose that connects to stock air box will connect to new) 15) Remove Bracket that holds Carb and holds Backing Plate 16) Take idle adjustable Knob loose – let hang loose 17) Take Choke Knob out of holding Bracket 18) Hose that went to cross over tube MAY BE PLUGGED OR VENTED your Choice (Fresh air unit) ** 98′S or any models with carb warmer should disconnect carb warmer by pinching off line on each side of connector that plugs into carb on bottom. Small bracket with one screw directly on the bottom of carb. 19) Loosen Clamp that holds Carb to intake Manifold, Carb will hang loose 20) Remove intake Manifold 5mm Allen- Remove crossover tube. 21) (- BE CAREFULL-) LINE IT UP RIGHT- Replace intake Manifold (YOU MAY TO SEAL THIS WITH A SEALER LIKE PERMATEX) ( BE SUPER CAREFUL TO KEEP INTAKE COVERED DURING EACH STEP. SCREWS CAN FALL ONTO INTAKE) 22) Drain Float Bowl 3mm allen – very bottom of carb 23) Remove Float Bowl 4 screws (#2 Phillips) let hang down 24) Remove main jet, if Emulsion tube comes out use 8mm and Flat tip to separate jet from Emulsion tube. 25) Install with new jet 26) CAREFULLY Reinstall Float Bowl Cover 27) If installing Needle Remove Top Cover of Carb, Carefully pull the slide out. ( BE CAREFUL WITH DIAPHRAM) Remove Spring + Needle Install new Needle (WE RECOMMEND THE 3RD CLIP FROM TOP WITH TWO WASHERS ON TOP. REINSTALL 28) Be sure to reseat diaphragm – BE CAREFUL Reinstall Cover. 29) Install Carb to Intake – reconnect carb warmer if applicable 30) Reattach idle adjustment 31) Reattach Choke 32) Reattach Bracket in front of Carb- 33) Take Center bolt mount Rubber Gromlet from Stock Air box Plate install in to new Air box Adapter use stock Bolt, Attach to Bracke

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Harley-Davidson Softail Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-12-2010

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the fasteners that secure the seat. Remove seat. 6. Disconnect negative Battery Terminal. 7. Remove the Saddle Bags. And their hardware. If equipped. 8. Loosen Muffler Clamp on both Mufflers and other attaching hardware. Remove and discard both Mufflers. 9. Loosen the 4 exhaust stud nuts and save. Remove and discard head pipes and exhaust gaskets. 10. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness. 11. Remove any fasteners from Electrical Box. 12. Remove and discard Rear Fender, Fender Support and fasteners. NOTE: 2008-Current various models. Remove ECM from Fender and save nuts. 13. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 14. Un-clamp Rear Brake Line from the frame and Rear Fork. 15. Remove and discard both Banjo Bolts and Crush Washers from the Rear Brake Caliper and the Rear Brake Master Cylinder. 16. Remove Brake Light Switch from the Brake line, Save for reassembly. 17. Remove the Torx screw from the Brake Line bracket, Save the Torx screw for reassembly. 18. Remove and Discard Brake Line. 19. If Lower Controls option. Remove and Discard right and left floorboards/foot pegs, brake pedal, shifter, and shift linkage. Remove and Discard Passenger Foot pegs or Floorboards and their mounts. Then skip to step 24. 20. If Lower Controls Not purchased. Continue. 21. Remove acorn nut from Shift Linkage. 22. Remove 3 fasteners from Drivers Floorboard and remove. 23. Remove and discard Jiffy Stand. 24. Remove the Primary Cover by first removing the top and rear inspection cover screws. 25. Continue by removing remaining fasteners. 14 total. 26. Remove and discard Primary Cover Gasket. 27. Clean residual gasket material from both surfaces. 28. Loosen the Top Center Nut on the Primary Chain Adjuster. Lower the Primary Chain Adjuster until it rests flat on the Inner Primary Cover. 29. Remove the Clutch Lifter Retaining Ring from the Clutch Basket. Remove Clutch Lifter Assembly. 30. Using the Primary Drive Locking Tool. Loosen the Compensating Sprocket Nut. 31. Using the Primary Drive Locking Tool. Loosen the Clutch Hub Main shaft Nut. WARNING: This nut is LEFT HAND threaded. 32. Remove the Primary Drive Locking Tool, Compensating Sprocket Nut, and Clutch Hub Main shaft Nut. 33. Remove the Sprocket cover and Sliding Cam from the Crank Shaft Extension. 34. Remove the Clutch Assembly, Primary Chain, Compensating Sprocket, and Crank Shaft Extension in one assembly.

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Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster The Freak Installation Instructions and Parts List

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

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HONDA 420 RANCHER 2×4/4×4 2007-2009 CLUTCH KIT INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 22-12-2011

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Remove key from the ignition switch. Remove the side panels from both sides. Remove both foot wells. 2. Drain coolant. Remove the oil drain plug from the motor; if you carefully drain it into a clean container you should be able to reuse it. 3. Disconnect shift motor (on electric shift models only). Remove coolant hoses. 4. Remove the bolts that mount the front differential to the frame, no other parts need to be removed. Carefully slide the front differential towards the front of the machine; you might need to lift up slightly to get the differential to move. Remove the drive shaft. Remove o-ring on output shaft (on motor). 5. Remove the fuel pump. 6. Loosen the front crankcase cover bolts, keep track of each bolt length and location. Slowly remove the crankcase cover. Carefully watch for o-ring shims and dowel pins that may fall out. 7. Unstake the nut holding the clutch on and remove nut. Using Honda tool #07933-HB3000A thread the large part of the tool into the center of the clutch. Tighten the center bolt on the tool while holding the large part of the tool with a wrench. This will pull the clutch off the machine. Place the clutch on a clean work surface. EPI performance.com
8. Using the c-clamps push down slightly on the outside cover and remove the four e-clips. Keeping track of which way they come off, remove the round metal plates one at a time. This will allow you to see the complete spring. Remove one end of each spring using a spring tool or needle nose pliers and then remove springs. Install the EPI springs by inserting the spring into the outer edge first. Using a spring tool or pliers (45 degree bent pliers work well) pull on the spring and insert the end into the hole. Install the metal plates and the e-clips. If you can’t get the plates to sit flat make sure each clutch arm is flat against the bottom plate of the clutch. Occasionally when you put the springs on, the clutch arms will pop up. Slide the clutch into the machine. The Sprague clutch is marked “outside” when installing make sure this is facing out. Torque clutch nut to 87 ft/lbs. 9. Clean the gasket surface on the motor and on the cover. Put a thin layer of Honda Bond or Yamabond semi-drying liquid gasket (or something similar as long as it is semi-drying) on the crankcase cover. Carefully install crankcase cover, do not force cover on. Torque bolts to 9 ft/lbs. 10. Install the fuel pump. 11. Install the o-ring on the output shaft (on motor) and install the drive shaft. Carefully slide the front differential back into place and mount to the frame. Install the coolant hoses. Refill your engine coolant to the proper level according to your owner’s manual. 12. Install the oil drain plug. Refill your engine to the proper level according to your owner’s manual. You can reuse your oil if it is clean and was drained into a clean container. Only use manufactures recommended oil. 13. Be sure to double check coolant and oil levels and to look for any leaks after the machine has run for a few minutes. 14. Go out and ride your machine. If your performance doesn’t seem right double check to make sure everything has been done properly. 15. EPI is constantly testing our products. Sometimes there is a need to contact the user with new technical information. To ensure that you are receiving this information visit our web site EPIperformance.com to register your clutch kit.

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KAWASAKI TERYX 750 CLUTCH KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove both seats from the vehicle. Next, remove the passenger side lower body panel. There is a mixture of Philips head screws and also plastic push pin fasteners that have to be removed. 2. With the side panel off, the next item to remove is the plastic housing over the engine. These are all “push in” style plastic clips that hold it in place. Once all the pins are out, you can slide the housing off and set it aside. 3. Now the lower long plastic panel under the seat has to be removed (again mainly plastic push clips to remove) . Once they are all out, carefully remove and set aside. 4. Next, remove the fuel tank. Remove the two lines on the top of the tank. There are two straps that hold the tank in place. Remove the bolt from each strap, remove the straps, and lift the fuel tank out. 5. Now the bracket that holds the fuel pump on has to be removed. There are two bolts here to take out. Once this is done, mark the two wires to the coil and disconnect them. Set the bracket out of the way . 6. Next, the clutch cover bolts can be removed and the norkel on the housing can be loosened and i Teryx 750 Clutch Kit Instructions 5/1/09 removed. Take the clutch cove off and set out of the way. 7. With the clutch visible, you can remove the secondary clutch with a large impact wrench and metric socket . 8. Remove the bolt from the primary clutch. This is a left hand thread on the bolt. Next you will need a Kawasaki drive clutch puller (part #352251) to pop the clutch loose. If you do not have a puller, the spring cap can be removed on the vehicle and the weights can be changed out in there as well. 9. With the clutches sitting on the bench, remove the bolts that hold on the spring cover. Remove the stock spring and the stock weights 10. After reading the directions on the new weights, add the correct amount of weight to each clutch weight and install them in the clutch. Place the weight to the left side in the clutch pocket and then install the aluminum spacer. Repeat this process for the other three weights. 11. Install the new spring supplied in the kit and install the spring cover, paying close attention to the arrows on the cover. 12. Next, remove the stock spring from the secondary. It is recommended that you use the TEAM Compression tool (part # 930001) for this. With the clutch on the compression tool, compress the spring retainer down far enough to remove the snap ring with the needle-nose pliers . Slowly back off the t-handle and remove the tool.

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