how to remove two hidden bolts from front wheel cylinder on old yale forklift

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GL1800 Goldwing Trike Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Disassembly of motorcycle: 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand or lift. 2. Set the shock preload to zero. 3. Remove the four m8 x 1.25 SHCS from the passenger handles and remove seat. 4. Remove the rear side covers. 5. Disconnect negative battery terminal. 6. Remove the four m8 x 1.25 SHCS and the passenger floorboards. 7. Remove the six m5 x 0.80 BHCS and the foot rest under cover. 8. Remove the six m5 x .80 BHCS and the swing arm pivot bolt covers. 9. Remove the four m8 x 1.25 flange bolts on the rear crash guards. Remove and discard the rear crash guards and bolts. 10. Remove the four #2 Phillips head screws from the inside of the trunk to remove the trim pieces on the sides. 11. Remove the two #2 Phillips head screws in the rear trim molding and remove molding. 12. Remove the seven #2 Phillips head screws from the lower trunk cover. Remove the lower trunk cover. 13. Remove the five #2 Phillips head screws from the trunk opener cover. Remove the trunk opener cover. 14. Disconnect the left and right saddlebag release cables. 15. Remove the five m6 x 1.0 BHCS in the rear fender panel. Remove and discard the rear fender panel and cap screws. 16. Disconnect the trunk wiring. 17. Remove the four m6 x 1.0 flange screws. Remove the trunk from the saddlebag / trunk stay. 7 18. 2005 and older 2005 and older 2005 and older 2005 and older ABS equipped motorcycles: ABS equipped motorcycles: ABS equipped motorcycles: ABS equipped motorcycles: Remove rubber bungee from ABS Control Unit, and save for reinstallation. 19. Remove the two side cover grommets from each saddlebag. ( 4 grommets total ) 20. Remove the left and right hand saddlebag latches, strikers, and release cables for core parts return. Refer to Honda service manual. 21. Remove the left and right saddlebag taillights and sub- harnesses for core parts return . Refer to Honda service manual. 22. Remove the four m6 x 1.0 flange bolts from each saddlebag. Remove and discard the saddlebags. 23. Remove the six m6 x 1.0 flange bolts from the exhaust tips. Slide the tip off the muffler body. Save tips and bolts for reinstallation. 24. Loosen the four m8 x 1.25 SHCS on the muffler clamps. Remove the two m8 x 1.25 flange bolts. Remove and discard the mufflers and muffler gaskets. 25. Remove the four m6 x 1.0 BHCS, two rubber washers, and front fender A. 26. Remove the four m5 x .80 BHCS and chrome front fender covers. 27. 2006 & UP. 2006 & UP. 2006 & UP. 2006 & UP. Remove the Remove the Remove the Remove the two m6 x two m6 x two m6 x two m6 x 1.0 flange bolts on 1.0 flange bolts on 1.0 flange bolts on 1.0 flange bolts on rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. 28. Unplug connector and remove amp and save for Unplug connector and remove amp and save for Unplug connector and remove amp and save for Unplug connector and remove amp and save for reinstallation. reinstallation. reinstallation. reinstallation. 29. Cut lower saddlebag supports off the saddlebag/trunk stay, where the round tubing meets the square, and cut the gusset flush, removing any burrs. See Figure 1. 30. Remove trunk stay for later use. 31. Remove the two m5 x .80 nuts on the license plate light. Remove and discard the license plate ligh

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1999-2008 FLHT Series Harley- Davidson Trike Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 04-12-2010

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the ¼ – 20 Phillips head screw and Seat. 6. Disconnect negative Battery Terminal. 7. Remove two ¼ – 20 flanged hex nuts from the Stud Plate. Save the Passenger Handrail and two nuts. 8. Remove the Saddle Bags. 9. Remove the Right and Left Side Covers. 10. Remove Inner Tour Pak Molded Liner. 11. Disconnect the Tour Pak wiring. 12. Remove five ¼ – 20 HHCS, ¼ – 20 nyloc nuts, and Aluminum Spacers. 13. Remove Tour Pak from Top Support Tube. 14. Loosen Muffler Clamp on both Mufflers and remove 2 5/16 – 18 HHCS per Muffler. Remove and discard both Mufflers. Save Muffler Clamps. 15. Remove and discard Muffler Support Plates. 16. Remove both ¼ – 20 HHCS and Front Saddle Bag Brackets. 17. Remove the twelve 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS six 5/16 – 18 nuts, and the Left and Right Saddle Bag Guards. 18. Remove the Air Line Junction from the Rear Fender. 19. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness and remove from T-stud Clip.
6 20. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Phillips head screws. Remove the Left and Right Frame Covers. 21. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove and save the Top Tour Pak Support Tube Top. 22. Remove four 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove the Left and Right Rear Saddle Bag Guard Support Bracket. 23. Remove four 5/16 – 18 HHCS. Remove and save the Tour Pak Support Tube Bottom. 24. Remove and discard the Air Valve Assembly Bracket. 25. Remove four ½ – 13 HHCS and washers. Remove and discard both Rear Air Shock Absorbers. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. 26. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 27. Cut and remove Cable ties and un-clamp Wire Harness Loops from the Rear Brake Line along its length, including Clamps on Swing Arm. 28. Remove the 10 – 24 flanged HHCS and Rear Brake Hose Clamp from the Right Rear Fork Bracket. 29. Remove ¼ – 20 SHCS from Rear Stop Lamp Switch Bracket. 30. Remove and discard Banjo Bolt and Crush Washers on Rear Brake Caliper. 31. Remove the Spring Clip and nut from the Rear Axle. 32. Remove Rear Axle and Rear Wheel Spacers. 33. Push Rear Wheel Assembly forward and slip Rear Belt off of the Rear Sprocket. 34. Remove Rear Brake Caliper. 35. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly rearward. Remove one 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS from inside the Rear Fender well. 36. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly forward. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove Rear Fender. 37. Remove and save the two Retaining Washers from the Stud Plate. Remove and save the Stud Plate

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HONDA VT-600 Front Wheel Adapter kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1. Using a 6mm Allen wrench, loosen the 2 front axle pinch bolts on the right side of the lower fork leg. Loosen bolts 4 or 5 turns. 2. Using a 17mm Allen wrench, slightly loosen the front axle from the right side of the bike. Having the front wheel on the ground will help you in loosening the axle. Do not remove the axle at this time! 3. Loosen and remove the speedometer cable from the back of the speedometer on your handlebars. Pull the speedometer cable all the way out of the front fork. Remove the cable from the speedometer drive on your front wheel (note the position of the connection as it will be similar on your new drive installation). This speedometer cable or speedometer drive will not be needed on your new wheel installation. 4. Block the back wheel to prevent the bike from rolling backwards, and raise the motorcycle’s front wheel off of the ground, so the wheel spins freely. You can do this with a motorcycle lift placed under the front portion of the motorcycle frame. Contact Scootworks to purchase a lift if you don’t have access to one. Ensure the bike is stable and will not fall before proceeding further! Scootworks, Inc. 3 5. Using the 17mm Allen wrench, finish loosening the front axle until it is completely free from the left side of the lower fork. Hold onto the front wheel and slowly remove the axle from the front fork. Be careful not to let the wheel drop. Having a helper hold the wheel for you as you remove the axle will ease the removal. Slide the brake rotor out of the calipers. NOTE: be careful not to operate the front brake controls with the brake rotor removed from the calipers. 6. With the wheel removed from the front forks, lay the wheel on a padded or cushioned surface with the brake rotor facing upwards. Using a 6mm Allen wrench, remove the 5 Allen bolts from the brake rotor. (The bolts are sometimes installed with loctite, and may require heating with a small torch to loosen the loctite). Remove the brake rotor from the wheel. Place the wheel to the side. Clean up the bolts as you will reuse them later. 7. Take your new custom wheel that you will be installing on your bike and place it on a cushioned or padded surface to prevent scratching. Turn it so that the side where the brake rotor attaches is facing upward. 8. Ensure the brake rotor mounting holes on the wheel are clean and free of oil or grease. Clean with alcohol if needed, then let dry. Place your new brake rotor adapter plate onto the wheel with the flat side against the wheel. Apply a small amount of medium strength (blue) loctite on each of the 5/16″ Allen bolts supplied with your kit and install through the new rotor adapter plate and into the wheel. Tighten with a 3/16″ Allen wrench until snug. When all bolts are installed, tighten in a star pattern, and torque to 25-30 ft. lbs. 9. Install your brake rotor onto the new brake rotor adapter using the original bolts you removed in step 6. Apply a small amount of medium strength loctite to each bolt and install through the brake rotor into the new brake rotor adapter. Tighten in a star pattern, and torque to 25-30 ft. lbs. 10. It is now time to install your new wheel/rotor adapter onto your bike. It is easiest to accomplish this with a helper, as it takes some coordination to get the wheel, brake rotor and spacers into place. Apply a thin coat of grease to the axle. Lift the front wheel into place between the front forks, aligning the brake rotor into the caliper. The caliper floats from left to right and can be moved into the proper position. If the caliper is closed, pry the brake pads apart so that the rotor will slide into the caliper.

HARLEY DAVIDSON FRONT THUNDERSTAR WHEELS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Remove existing front wheel assembly. Save axle, axle nut, brake disc, and wheel spacers for kit installation. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. For FLSTC and FLSTN Models: Discard moon-style hub cap. -J04065 1 of 8 For FXSTD Models: Discard the tapered r ight side wheel spacer. Do not re-use brake disc/rotor screws. Re-using these screws can result in torque loss and damage to brake components. (00319c) NOTE • For Kits 43573-08, 43575-08, 43703-08, 43978-07, 43771- 07, 43609-07, 44323-07, 44282-07, 44322-07, 43975-07, 43602-07 and 43773-07 install short valve stem (43157- 83A) included in the installation kit. • For Kits 40943-09, 40966-09 and 40996-09 install long valve stem (43206-01) included in the installation kit. 2. See Figure 2. Install valve stem assembly (L, M or N) on wheel. Refer to TIRES in service manual. 3. Assemble wheel installation kit components and brake disc(s) to wheel, using the appropriate service parts table. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in Service Manual. NOTES Install the primary bearing first using appropriate service manual and WHEEL BEARING REMOVER/INSTALLER. For Kits 43573-08, 43575-08, 43703-08, 43978-07, 43771-07, 43609-07, 40943-09, 40966-09 and 40996-09: • The left side of the wheel has a machined groove (item 5, Figure 2) in the hub face and/or DOT markings to identify it as the brake disc and primary bearing side. • Install the wheel so that the valve stem is on the right side of the motorcycle. For Kits 44323-07, 44322-07 and 44282-07: • Install the wheel so that the hub markings are on the left side of the motorcycle. The left side of the wheel has a machined groove (item 5, Figure 2) in the hub face and hub markings to identify it as the primary bearing side. • These kits include one or two hub plates (43985-00) to install between the brake disc and the wheel and a chrome hub cap (43986-00) to install on the wheel opposite the brake disc side. Hub covers must be installed to prevent water intrusion, which could cause an imbalance condition. Dual brake disc models: Install one stainless steel hub plate (3) between each brake disc and wheel hub. Discard chrome hub cap (2). Install brake discs according to service manual procedures. Single brake disc models: Install one stainless steel hub plate (3) between the brake disc and wheel hub. Install the brake disc according to service manual procedures. Install the chrome hub cap (2) on the side opposite the brake disc. Discard extra stainless steel hub plate (3). • The gross axle weight ratings is unaffected by the installation of this wheel on a vehicle equipped with a 21-inch wheel. For Kits 43975-07, 43773-07, and 43602-07: • The wheel has a machined groove (item 5, Figure 2) in the hub face to identify the right side. • For 2007 and later FX Softail Models and 2008 and later FXDWG: The left side of the wheel is the primary bearing side. For all other models the right side of the wheel is the primary bearing side. • For Kit 43602-07: An arrow is engraved into the right side hub to indicate the direction of rotation. • For Kits 43975-07 and 43773-07: An arrow is cast between the spokes on the right side to indicate the direction of rotation. • These kits include one or two hub plates (43985-00) to install between the brake disc and the wheel and a chrome hub cap (43986-00) to install on the wheel opposite the brake-disc side. Hub covers must be installed to prevent water intrusion, which could cause an imbalance condition. Dual brake disc models: Install one stainless steel hub plate (3) between each brake disc and wheel hub. Discard chrome hub cap (2). Install brake discs according to service manual procedures. Single brake disc models: Install one stainless steel hub plate (3) between the brake disc and wheel hub. Install the brake disc according to service manual procedures. Install the chrome hub cap (2) on the side opposite the brake disc. Discard extra stainless steel hub plate (3). 4. Install wheel assembly parts from the appropriate Service Parts table for this fitment and stock brake disc. Discard parts from the installation kit that are not required. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in Service Manual. 5. For FLSTC and FLSTN Models: Install wheel kit and right side wheel spacer provided in installation kit. For FXSTD Models: Install wheel kit, stock left wheel spacer and right side wheel spacer from installation kit in place of the tapered right side wheel spacer discarded in Step 1. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. For FXSTS Models: Install the left side wheel spacer provided in the kit between the stock left wheel spacer and the left fork. All other models: Install wheel spacers previously removed. 6. Install front wheel (1), stock axle and stock axle nut. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual

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HARLEY DAVIDSON BLADE FRONT WHEEL KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 20-03-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. Remove existing front wheel assembly. Save axle, axle nut, brake disc, and wheel spacers for kit installation. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. For FLSTC and FLSTN Models: Discard moon-style hub cap. or FXSTD: Discard tapered spacer. NOTE Install short valve stem (43157-83A) included in the installation kit. Discard all other valve stems. 2. See Figure 2. Install valve stem assembly (L) on wheel. Refer to TIRES in service manual. Do not re-use brake disc/rotor screws. Re-using these screws can result in torque loss and damage to brake components. (00319c) NOTES Install the primary bearing first using appropriate service manual and WHEEL BEARING REMOVER/INSTALLER. The side with the machined groove on the hub face is the primary bearing side for all kits except Kits 41681-07 and 40818-08. For Kit 41681-07: Install the wheel so that the hub markings are on the left side and the machined groove is on the right side of the motorcycle. • For 2006 and later FXDWG Models: When correctly installed, the tire will be 0.08-0.2 in (2-5 mm) off of center, compared to the fender. • For 2007 and later FX Softail and 2008 and later FXDWG Models: The left side of the wheel is the primary bearing side. • For 2006 and earlier FX Softail and 2007 and earlier FXDWG Models: The right side of the wheel is the primary bearing side. For Kit 40818-08: • Proper installation of this kit requires the separate purchase of two floating brake discs (44343-01 for 2004 – 2007 models and 44553-06A (stock) or 41500012 (polished) for 2008 and later models) and a tire (43371-07 on 2004-2008 models and 44026-09A on 2009-later models). The left side of the wheel has machined DOT markings to identify it as the primary bearing side. • For 2008 and later Touring: Install bearing shim (43903- 08) under the primary bearing. 3. Assemble wheel installation kit components and brake disc(s) to wheel, using the appropriate service parts table. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. 4. For FLSTC and FLSTN Models: Install wheel kit and right hand wheel spacer provided in installation kit. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. For FXSTD Models: Install wheel kit, stock wheel spacer and right side wheel spacer provided in installation kit in place of the tapered spacer discarded in Step 1. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. For FXSTS Models: Install wheel kit, stock wheel spacers and spacer provided in installation kit between the left side wheel spacer and the left fork. For all other models: Install previously removed wheel spacers. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. 5. Install front wheel (1), stock axle and stock axle nut. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING Chrome parts must be maintained regularly to verify that they keep their original shine and luster. 1. Clean heavily-soiled wheel surfaces using Harley-Davidson Wheel and Tire Cleaner, applied with Harley Wheel and Spoke Brush. 2. Thoroughly clean chrome with a good quality chrome cleaner, such as Harley Bright Chrome Cleaner. 3. After cleaning and polishing, seal the finish with a good quality sealer, such as Harley Glaze Polish and Sealant

2009 – Current Harley Davidson Trike Conversion Kit INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 27-02-2012

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the ¼ – 20 Phillips head screw and Seat. 6. Disconnect and REMOVE battery. 7. Remove two ¼ – 20 flanged hex nuts from the Stud Plate. Remove and save the Passenger Handrail and two ¼ – 20 flanged hex head nuts if equipped. 8. Remove the Saddle Bags. 9. Remove the Right and Left Side Covers. 10. Remove Inner Tour Pak Molded Liner. 11. Disconnect the Tour Pak wiring. 12. Remove four ¼ – 20 HHCS. 13. Remove Tour Pak from Top Support Tube. 14. Remove both saddlebag support rails. 15. Loosen Muffler Clamps on both Mufflers and remove two 5/16 – 18 HHCS per Muffler. Remove and discard both Mufflers. Save Muffler Clamps. 16. Remove right side rear heat shield. 17. Remove and discard Muffler Support Plates. 18. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness and remove from T-stud Clip. 19. Remove four frame cover fasteners and the Left and Right Frame Covers. 20. Remove four Tour Pak Support fasteners and the Tour Pak Support.
7 21. Remove four rear fender fasteners and rear fender. 22. Remove four ½ – 13 HHCS and washers. Remove and discard Rear Air Shocks, Air lines and Air Valve bracket. 23. NOTE: NOTE: NOTE: NOTE: If motorcycle is A.B.S. Equipped refer to A.B.S. Installation Instructions. WARNING: WARNING: WARNING: WARNING: If A.B.S. Equipped DO NOT drain brake fluid. 24. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 25. Cut and remove Cable ties and un-clamp Wire Harness Loops from the Rear Brake Line along its length, including Clamps on Swing Arm. 26. Remove and discard Banjo Bolt and Crush Washers on Rear Brake Caliper. 27. Remove the Spring Clip and nut from the Rear Axle. 28. Remove Rear Axle and Rear Wheel Spacers. 29. Push Rear Wheel Assembly forward and slip Rear Belt off of the Rear Sprocket. 30. Remove Rear Brake Caliper. 31. Remove and save the two Retaining Washers from the Stud Plate. Remove and save the Stud Plate. 32. Remove Rear Wheel Assembly. 33. Remove two 3/8 – 16 SHCS. Remove Passenger Footboards.

TRIUMPH 750 BIG BORE CYLINDER AND PISTON SET FOR 650 TWINS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Step 1. Unpack your big bore kit and inspect the contents. There should be the following: 1. Cylinder x l 2. piston with wristpin x 2 3. Hepolite piston ring set x l 4. Special big bore head gasket Step 2. Thoroughly wash the cylinder bores with soap and water. Do not use solvent! Dry bores with air or a lint free towel and let completely air dry. This step is most important and will greatly extend the life of the pistons. Step 3. Following the procedure outlined in your service manual, drain the fuel tank, remove the exhaust system, fuel tank and carburetors. Have a catch basin handy to capture any fuel that may spill from the carburetors, as fuel is highly flammable and can be ignited by a dryer pilot light etc. from a long distance. Clean up any spilled fuel immediately and dispose of away from any source of ignition. Store the fuel tank in a well vented area, outdoors is best, in the event your fuel taps should leak. Step 4. Remove the rocker boxes by slacking the 9 head bolts a little at a time in a star pattern. Remove the 6 nuts at the front and back of the head. Remove the 4 corner rocker box bolts. Remove the head bolts and rocker boxes. Remove the push rods. Examine the push rods to insure they are straight and the ends are tight. Replace any suspect push rod. Step 5. Remove the cylinder head. Now would be a good time for guide and valve renewal. This is best left to an expert. More cylinder heads have been ruined by auto machine shops than by hard use. If you do not have a qualified shop in your area please call for a referral. Step 6. Remove the push rod tubes and the cylinder base nuts. Clip rubber bands around the top of the lifters to keep them from dropping into the crankcase. Have a few lint free rags handy. Bring the pistons to the top of the stroke and begin lifting off the cylinder. If the cylinder is hard to lift off, thread a nut on one of the base studs and use a tire lever to pry against the bottom fin close to its base using the stud as a fulcrum. After partially raising the cylinder stuff the crankcase mouth with rags to keep any carbon or broken rings from entering the crankcase. These will remain in place until step 12. Step 7. Leaving the rags in the crankcase remove the wrist pin circlips from the pistons and discard. Heat the piston and gently push the wrist pin out. Do not use force as this can damage the connecting rod or its bearings. Be sure to account for all the clips as one left in the crankcase can do extensive damage. Step 8. Clean all gasket surfaces to remove any traces of the old gaskets. Use Pennatex gasket remover if needed. Be very careful not to scratch the gasket surface or to allow any gasket particles to enter the crankcase. Even a small bit of gasket can stop the oil pump from working! Step 9. Note the direction and location of the lifters. These must be replaced in the same position as when removed. Remove the lifter blocks from the old cylinder. Start by removing the small retaining bolts and washers. The lifter blocks are extremely fragile and are easily broken. They are also very expensive so great care must be taken in this step! Triumph special tool 222-616008 is advisable here. Apply pressure to the center of the block only. Do not press against the tangs that locate the lifter! A tool can be fabricated using two dowels to locate in the lifter holes. Step 10. Clean and examine the lifters and camshaft faces. Clean the lifter blocks and remove the sealing oring under the locating flange. Replace these with the new orings in the gasket set. Apply a smear of gasket sealant to the lifter block oring and press into the new cylinder. Be sure the lifter block is parallel with the bores and the grooved block is on the exhaust side. Apply a small amount of assembly oil to the lifters and replace in the exact position they came from

HARLEY DAVIDSON VRSC CHROME WHEEL KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 18-03-2011

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Installation To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove maxi-fuse before proceeding. (00251a) 1 WARNING 1 WARNING ® Kit Numbers 41279-04, 41282-04, 41463-05, 41467-05, 41633-05, 41634-05, 41640-05, and 41639-05 1 of 3 Figure 1. Rear Wheel Removal i02495 1. Axle (keep) 2. Axle adjuster (keep) 3. Axle nut (keep) 4. “E”-clip (keep) 5. Spacer (3) (keep) 6. Torx screw (5) (replace) 7. Brake disc (keep) 8. Wheel assembly (replace) 9. Valve cap (keep) 10. Compensator bowl (keep) 11. Compensator cushion (keep) 12.12 pt screw (5) (keep) 13. Lockwasher (5) (keep) 14. Sprocket assembly (keep) 1. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the MAXI-FUSE instructions to remove the right-side cover and maxi- fuse. Proceed to Step 2 for the wheel being replaced. Rear Wheel 2. See Figure 1. Remove the rear wheel per the REAR WHEEL, REMOVAL instructions in the Service Manual. 3. Disassemble, clean and inspect all parts to be re-used per Service Manual instructions. 4. Re-assemble all saved components to the new chrome rear wheel assembly. See REAR WHEEL, ASSEMBLY in the Service Manual. Do not re-use brake disc screws. Re-using disc screws can result in torque loss and damage to rotor and/or brake assembly. (00319b) 5. Fasten the brake disc to the valve stem side of the wheel using the Torx®screws from the kit. Install the compensator bowl with the 12-point screws and lockwashers saved earlier. 6. Install the new wheel to the rear fork. Refer to REAR WHEEL, INSTALLATION in the Service Manual. Proceed to Step 7. Front Wheel 2. See Figure 2. Remove the front wheel per the FRONT WHEEL, REMOVAL instructions in the Service Manual. 3. Disassemble, clean and inspect all parts to be re-used per Service Manual instructions. Mark the left and right brake discs so they can be re-installed to the same location. 4. Re-assemble all saved components to the new chrome front wheel assembly. See FRONT WHEEL, ASSEMBLY in the Service Manual. Do not re-use brake disc screws. Re-using disc screws can result in torque loss and damage to rotor and/or brake assembly. (00319b) 5. Using the Torx ® shoulder bolts from the kit, and the saved spring washers fasten the brake discs to the same side of the wheel from which they were removed. 6. Install the new wheel to the front forks per the FRONT WHEEL, INSTALLATION instructions in the Service Manual. Proceed to Step 7. Front and Rear Wheels 7. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the MAXI-FUSE instructions to replace the maxi-fuse and right-side cover. After servicing brakes and before moving motorcycle, pump brakes to build brake system pressure. Insufficient pressure can adversely affect brake performance, which could result in death or serious injury. (00279a) After servicing the brake system, test brakes at low speed. If brakes are not operating properly, testing at high speeds can cause loss of control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00289a) Maintenance and Cleaning Chrome parts must be maintained regularly to ensure that they keep their original shine and luster. 1. Clean heavily-soiled wheel surfaces using Harley Wheel and Tire Cleaner, part number 94658-98, applied with Harley Wheel and Spoke Brush, part number 43078-99. 2. Thoroughly clean chrome with a good quality chrome cleaner, such as Harley Bright Chrome Cleaner, part number 94683-99. 3. After cleaning and polishing, seal the finish with a good quality sealer such as Harley Glaze Polish and Sealant, part number 99701-84

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2002-2007 HONDA VFR 800 WITH ABS GALFER BRAKE LINE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 03-03-2011

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Prep the motorcycle for this job A. Park motorcycle on the center stand in a well-lit shop (Fig.A) B. Note: it is not absolutely necessary to remove the fuel tank and body panels. However, brake fluid is VERY CORROSIVE TO PAINT. We decided to be safe (Fig. B) and removed the lower fairing left and right rear sides, fuel tank, front fender, seat, and black A B plastic inner fairing front parts, battery cover, and rear master cylinder cover according to the owner’s manual. This also gives better access to the fittings. (Fig C) C. After safely storing the body panels and fuel tank, remove wind shield, (brake fluid, even a drop, will permanently mark any clear plastic), cover the dash and all gauges with a towel. II. Draining the brake fluid from the systems. A. A copy of the factory instructions has been included with this kit on how to properly and safely drain, fill and bleed the brake fluid from the brake systems. Follow the directions closely and remove the fluid according to the instructions. Dispose of the old fluid properly—DO NOT REUSE. B. If you purchased the clutch line, then perform the following steps (Fig D): In the bag marked Clutch Line: remove the left side lower body panels. Remove vehicle speed sensor, and remove the coolant C D tank. Remove the clutch fluid from the master cylinder on the left clip-on. Remove the fluid from the clutch line and slave cylinder. This factory line is NOT attached along the inner frame spar so here is a little trick that made this a 20- minute job including the bleed: 1. Remove the banjo bolts from the master cylinder and the clutch slave ends. 2. With a nice heavy wire tie, attach the slave end of the new braided line to the lever end of the factory line. Snip off the tail of the wire tie. Wrap this “joint” with electrical tape. 3. Pull from the factory slave end until you get the braided line end to the clutch slave. If it gets caught on something, try turning the end you are pulling from. 4. Remove the tape, carefully cut off the wire tie, install new sealing washers and bolts at both ends and torque to 17-21 foot/lbs. maximum. Bleed the clutch. III. Removing the factory front brake hoses and calipers – Front A. With the fluid drained and disposed of properly, loosen the bolts that hold the right caliper to the right fork leg (Fig E). Also remove the two 8mm bolts from the ABS front wheel speed sensor. Loosen all of the hose mounting blocks on the front forks on both sides; also loosen the blocks for the crossover pipe (Fig F) between the fork legs. Also loosen the frame pipe mounts and the mount for the front lever line that is also E attached to the right side of the frame. Loosen the left caliper mounting bolts (Fig G). B. Remove the calipers and remove the hose mounts under the lower triple tree. Remove the hard pipes from both the left and right hard pipe to soft line frame mounts on the frame (Fig. H). On the front ABS modulator remove the short soft line that is connected to the mount block. (Fig I.a. & I.b.) C. Carefully remove the

Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster The Freak Installation Instructions and Parts List

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

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