how to repair horn kawasaki mule 3010

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HARLEY DAVIDSON HORN COVER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 12-02-2011

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INSTALLATION Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Remove seat and disconnect wires from horn. 2. See Figure 1. Remove stock horn bracket nut (2) and the entire stock horn cover assembly (1). Remove the horn (3) and all hardware components from the stock cover including wire clamp, clips, and mounting bracket. Leave rubber mount and locknut on motorcycle. Note assembly order for kit installation. NOTE Do not over-tighten “horn to horn cover” nut. Over-tightening may result in permanent damage to the horn. 3. Apply Loctite 271 (Red) to threads of nut (4) fastening the horn to the horn cover. Tighten nut to 80-100 in-lbs (9.0- 11.3 Nm). Tighten screws fastening the horn cover to the horn bracket to 35-55 in-lbs (4.0-6.2 Nm). 4. Route wiring harness through the clamp (if present) and install the entire horn cover assembly to the mounting stud (5). 5. Tighten nut (2) fastening the horn bracket to the horn rubber mount to 80-100 in-lbs (9.0-11.3 Nm). Connect positive (+) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00068a) 6. Connect wires to terminals and reconnect battery. NOTE Horn is not polarity sensitive. Ground and power wire may be connected to either terminal. 2 4 1 5 3 is03958 1. Horn cover assembly 2. Bracket nut 3. Horn 4. Nut 5. Mounting stud Figure 1. Horn Cover Installation 7. Test horn. NOTE Test the horn only when mounted on the vehicle. The sound may be muffled if tested when hand-held. A muffled sounding horn that is mounted to a vehicle may indicate permanent damage to the horn by over-tightening the horn to horn cover nut (Figure 1, Item 4). Attempt to adjust nut torque. Replace horn if necessary. 8. Reinstall seat

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KAWASAKI VOYAGER AIR HORN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 27-12-2010

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1. Remove the false fuel tank cover to expose the battery. Remove the right hand lower leg fairing. (4 phillips screws). Unplug the stock horn and remove the (2) 10mm bolts securing it to the frame. 2. See photo #1 using the stock horn bolts attach the black horn mounting bracket and the white ground wire supplied as shown. Next locate the relay supplied. Plug the stock horn wires into the relay terminals #85 & #86. (see wiring diagram on back side of instructions) 3. Attach the air hose to the compressor air outlet fitting. Attach the short red wire supplied to the compressors positive (+) terminal and the white wire installed earlier to the compressors ground (-) terminal. As shown in photo #2. Attach the compressor to the frame with the hose clamp provided. Note: position the top of the compressor as shown touching the bottom of the horn mounting bracket and approximately 1 Ω” to the rear of radiator and shroud. Also the air hose and fitting should be in front of the frame tube with the hose routed inside the hose clamp without pinching the hose. Attach the red wire from the compressor to one of the relays remaining outer terminals #30 or #87. Attach the remaining long red wire (supplied) to the remaining relay terminal #30 or #87. Secure the relay to the frame with a cable tie supplied. Route the red wire up to the battery positive (+) terminal. Locate the fuse wire assembly provided. Attach the fork end of the fuse wire to the battery positive (+) terminal. Cut the red wire to the desired length, strip the end and crimp to the fuse assembly. Turn on the ignition and press the horn button, you should hear the compressor motor run. Re-install the false fuel tank lid. Re-install the right lower leg fairing while routing the air hose out next to the black horn mounting bracket 4. See photo #3, Bolt the horn set to the black mounting bracket using the 5/16 x æ”bolt, washer and lock washer provided. Trim the air hose to length if necessary and attach the air hose to the horn assembly. Install the trumpet covers. (see instructions enclosed with covers) Turn on the ignition and test the horns

HARLEY DAVIDSON SMOOTH HORN COVER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 30-01-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. Refer to your model motorcycle’s Service Manual and remove the seat. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 2. Disconnect the battery cables, negative (-) cable first. 3. See Figure 1. Remove stock horn bracket nut (2) and the entire stock horn cover assembly. Remove the horn wires, horn and all hardware components from the stock cover including wire clamp, clips and mounting bracket. Note assembly order for reinstallation. 4. Position the horn (3) inside the new cover. Apply 1-2 drops of Loctite 271 (red) (Harley-Davidson Part Number 99671- 97) onto threads of nut (4). Install nut onto horn mounting stud (6) and tighten to 90-100 in-lbs (10-11 Nm). NOTE Do not over-tighten “horn to horn cover” nut . tighten to 90-100 in-lbs (10-11 Nm). Use in-lbs torque wrench. Over-tightening may result in permanent damage to the horn. 5. Route wiring harness through the clamp, (if present) and install the entire assembly to the horn assembly mounting stud (5). 6. Connect wires to terminals and reconnect battery. After installing seat, pull upward on seat to be sure it is locked in position. While riding, a loose seat can shift causing loss of control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00070b) NOTE The horn is not polarity sensitive. The ground and power wires are interchangeable on the horn terminals

MECHANIC CERTIFICATION REQUIREMENTS MDOS Form: Repair Facility Manual

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 18-11-2010

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Chapter 7: Mechanic Certification Requirements Page 4 7-2.2 Heavy-duty Truck Certification Categories. The Heavy-duty Truck Repair categories requiring mechanic certification to repair vehicles over 10,000 pounds G.V.W. are: a) Engine Repair, Gasoline; b) Engine Repair, Diesel; c) Drive Trains; d) Brakes and Braking Systems; e) Suspension and Steering Systems; f) Electrical Systems; g) Collision-Related Mechanical Repair. 7-2.3 Other On-road Vehicle Certification Categories. Repair categories for other on-road vehicles that require mechanic certification to perform repairs are: a) Motorcycle; b) Recreational Trailer. Automobile and Light Truck Certification Categories. The repair categories requiring mechanic certification to repair vehicles under 10,000 pounds gross vehicle weight (G.V.W.) are: a) Engine Repair; b) Engine Tune-up/Performance; c) Front End, Suspension and Steering Systems; d) Brakes and Braking Systems; e) Automatic Transmission; f) Manual Transmission, Front and Rear Drive Axles; g) Electrical Systems; h) Heating and Air Conditioning; i) Collision-Related Mechanical Repair; j) Unitized Body Structural Repair; k) Pre-1973 Vehicle Repair

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Kawasaki Mule 3010 Hood Rack Installation And Operations Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 28-04-2012

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1. Install the Seizmik Brush Guard. – Have a friend hold the brush guard (G) in place while you slide the 1.0″ dia. tube clamps (K) in place over the middle tube of the OEM bumper, as shown in Figure 1. Secure each one in place with one of the 3/8″ x 2.25″ bolts (N), two 3/8″ washers (Q), and one 3/8″ nylock nut (R). Repeat at the top tube of the OEM bumper using the 1.5″ dia. tube clamps (J), and 3/8″ x 1.75″ bolts (O). VEHICLE FRONT Figure 2. 2. Mounting brackets – Attach the two hood rack mounting brackets to the mounting pads of the brush guard, as shown in Figure 2. Use four of the 3/8″ x 1.0″ bolts (P), eight 3/8″ washers (Q), and four 3/8″ nylock nuts (R) per mounting pad. Snug down the fasteners but do not fully tighten them yet. 3 Figure 3. 3. Crush sleeves – Insert a crush sleeve (B) into each cantilever arm assembly (C & D), as shown in Figure 3. 4. Cantilever arms – Position the Driver side cantilever arm (C) on the mounting bracket, and insert a 3/8″ dia. pivot bolt (M), as shown in Figure 4. Add a 3/8″ washer (Q) and nylock nut (R) on the other side and snug down the assembly; leave the fasteners loose enough so the components can be repositioned for fitment. Repeat this step for the passenger side. Figure 4. 4 Figure 5. 5. Lock pins – Insert the 1/2″ lock pins (Y) into the tabs on each side of the Brush Guard, fixing the cantilever arms in place, as shown in Figure 5.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME FAN KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-03-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. Refer to Service Manual and remove seat. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 2. Disconnect battery negative cable. Horn Relocation NOTE This cooling fan is designed to provide supplemental cooling for motorcycles subjected to long periods of idling/parade duty. The fan is mounted on the left side of the engine in the area where the horn is mounted. The stock horn must be removed. Remove Stock Horn 1. Follow Service Manual instructions to remove stock horn and its bracket. 2. Assemble new horn 69043-96B to bracket 69135-04 using screws 3658 and washers 7069. 3. Remove right front fuel tank TORX® screw. 4. Mount horn at front of fuel tank with TORX screw. Verify there is adequate room between horn bracket and fuel tank to prevent paint damage. Tighten screw to 15-20 ft- lbs (20-27 Nm) . 1 is05140a 1. Horn mounting location Figure 1. Horn Relocation Remove Stock Upper Engine Mounting Bracket 1. Remove screw securing rear of fuel tank and gently raise fuel tank to gain access to upper engine mounting bracket. Place suitable blocking under tank. 2. On 2007 models remove bolt attaching stabilizer link to upper engine mounting bracket. 3. Remove two bolts and washers securing upper engine mounting bracket to front and rear cylinder heads. Retain bolts and washers for attaching new upper engine mounting bracket from kit. 4. Note position of fuel hose. Remove upper engine mounting bracket. 5. Connect horn relocation harness to horn. 6. Route stock horn wires forward towards relocated horn. 7. See Figure 7. Cut ends off stock horn wires and strip wires 3/8 inch. Follow instructions in Service Manual, “SEALED

Kawasaki Mule Lift Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 04-05-2012

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Front Lift Installation 1. Ensuring that the parking brake is set, place jack under center of the Mule front end and lift until front wheels clear the ground. Be careful to support Mule properly so that it is secure, but so that the A-arms and struts can droop to full extension. 2. Remove front wheels. 3. If applicable, remove the heater to allow access to the strut mount behind the heater coil. Heater 4. Starting with the left side (driver side), remove the cotter pin and castle nut that secures the strut to the strut mount. Castle Nut & Pen 5. Push bolt through the bolthole, taking care not to damage the brake line that is attached to the bolt. If you are having difficulty removing the bolt, you may have to remove the brake lines that are attached to the front brakes. In this case refer to owners manual for removing brake lines. Screwdriver NOTE: Keep in mind that if you remove the brake lines you must bleed your brakes according to operator’s manual. 6. Once the bottom of the strut has been loosened, then unbolt the top of the strut. The nuts securing the top strut can be located in the dash of the Mule on the left and right sides. In most cases these nuts are easily accessible, but you may have to remove the glove box or heater coils, depending on the model and options purchased with the Mule.

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TRIUMPH ROCKET III ELECTRIC HORN HARDWARE KIT INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 24-12-2010

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1. Remove the seat and left hand side cover. (held in place by two (2) 10mm bolts) Remove the chrome cover from the stock horn located below the headlights. (held in place by two (2) 5mm allen screws at the top of the cover) 2. Unplug the wires from the stock horn. Locate the supplied jacketed cord and attach the end with the piggyback jumpers to the horn wires. Plug these back onto the horn terminals as shown in photo (1). Remove the black plastic left side steering head frame cover (held in place with two (2) 5mm allen screws). Route the cord behind the headlights, along the left side of the frame and over the engine keeping it neatly out of sight. Route the end if the cord to where the relay will mount as shown in photo (2A). Replace chrome horn cover and steering head frame cover. 3. Using the relay supplied, refer to the wiring diagram included with the horn set and the small numbers next to the terminals on the relay. Connect the 2 wires from the jacketed cord to terminals #85 & #86. Connect the blade terminal of the fuse wire assembly (supplied) to terminal #30 on the relay. Attach the other end of the fuse holder to the positive (+) battery terminal. 4. On the horns bend the wire terminals outward so that they will be parallel to the mounting brackets when installed. Refer to photo (3) and assemble the horns onto their supplied mounting brackets as shown. Bolt two (2) of the four (4) flat silver brackets on each of the horns using the 6mm nuts and lock washers supplied. Bolt the black bracket to the left hand horn using the 6x12mm bolt and nyloc nut supplied. Place the 6 x 35mm bolt with a washer and lock washer thru the right hand horn bracket then the left hand black bracket and place the 3/8″ flange nut over the back of the bolt. Remove the bolt where the horns will mount (see photo 2B) and bolt the horn set on as assembled with the flange nut on the back side of the black bracket. Align the horns as shown in photo (2) being careful that the horns do not make contact with each other or any other parts as this will significantly reduce their output then tighten the bolt securely.

Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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Kawasaki Exhausts – ZX-6 ZX-10 Zx-14 Exhaust – Slip-ons INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo

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