how to replace crank seal on a 1990 harley fatboy

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Lilac LS-18 Motorcycle Maintenance Standards

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Filed Under (Lilac) by admin on 25-11-2010

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CYLINDER AND CYLINDER HEAD MAINTENANCE ITEM STANDARD REPAIR LIMIT METHOD REMARKS Cylinder Bore 54 -0.01 54.1 Boring After boring honing should be performed Ovality 0.01 0.05 Boring After boring honing should be performed Taper 0.01 0.05 Boring After boring honing should be performed Oversize 0.25 steps 55 max. Do R and L cylinders at same time / 4 steps Valve Seat Width 0.8 – 1.0 1.3 Adjust Use a cutter Angle 45∞ Combustion Chamber Volume 18.2cc -0.5cc Remove carbon if heavy accumulation Compression Ratio 7.8:1 Head Gasket Thickness 1.0 Cylinder Head Nut Torque 3.0 kg/m (22 ft.-lb.) Out standard Adjust 8mm nut Intake and Exhaust Ports Port Wall SurfaceMust be smooth Remove carbon Intake and Exh. Valve GuidesOD 12 +0.09 +0.1 ID 7 +0.01 -0.0 7.06 Exchange Intake Valve Stem Diameter 7 -0.02 -0.03 6.9 Exchange Head Thickness 1 0.7 Exchange Exhaust Valve Stem Diameter 7 -0.02 -0.03 6.9 Exchange Head Thickness 1 0.7 Exchange Intake and Exhaust Valve Seat Face Width Range 0.8~1.0 1.3 Use valve seat cutter Intake Valve Guide Clearance 0.02~0.04 0.08 Replace valve or guide Exhaust Valve Guide Clearance 0.06~0.08 0.12 Replace valve or guide Valve Spring (Large) Installed Load 10.2 kg 8.7 kg Replace Fitted length 31.5 Free Length 36.5 34.7 Replace Tilt 1.5/100 3/100 Replace Valve Spring (Small) Installed Load 5.48 kg 4.65 kg Replace Fitted length 29.5 Page 4 of 10 Free Length 33.5 31.8 Replace Tilt 1.5/100 3/100 Replace Rocker Arm ID 12 +0.00 +0.02112.07 Replace Rocker Shaft OD 12 -0.06 -0.024 11.92 Replace Arm and Shaft Clearance 0.045~0.006 0.10 Replace arm or shaft Tappet Clearance 0.05 Out standard Adjust Measure cold at TDC Rocker Arm Ball Surface 1.8îR -0.006 -0.024 Replace if severe wear Pushrod Bend 0.1 0.5 Straighten Over 100mm (2) CRANKSHAFT, PISTON AND CONROD MAINTENANCE ITEM STANDARD REPAIR LIMIT METHOD REMARKS Piston OD @ Top 53.65 -0.02 Max Diameter 53.95 -0.015 53.85 Replace Ovality 0.1 Piston and Cylinder Clearance 0.04~0.05 0.15 Replace Piston Ring Groove Clearance 0.03~0.07 0.10 Replace Piston Oversize Step 0.25 4 steps Top Ring and 2nd Ring Thickness 2 -0.01 -0.03 1.92 Replace Width 2.5 -0.01 0.55kg Tension 0.85 – 1.15kg 1 Replace End Gap 0.15 – 0.35 Replace Oil Ring Thickness 3.2 -0.01 -0.03 3.12 Replace Width 2.5 -0.1 Tension 1.0~1.3kg 0.65kg Replace End Gap 0.15~0.35 1 Replace Ring Gap Position 120∞ 3 equal spacesOut standard Adjust Avoid Piston Pin Axis Ring Oversizes 0.25 steps 4 steps Piston Pin OD 15 -0.0 +0.006 14.95 Replace Pin Hole in Piston ID 15 +0.012 -0.015.05 Replace Pin and Piston Clearance -0.006 ~ +0.012 0.06 Replace Hand push fit piston at 100∞C Conrod Small End Bush ID 15+0.027+0.016 15.07 Replace bush Conrod and Piston Pin Clearance 0.01~0.027 0.07 Replace Crankpin OD 24.94 +0.0+0.0124.90 Replace Crankpin Roller OD 5 (+0.001+0.003) Refer to conrod ID Replace 3Sizes; 52 per assembly for selective fit 5 (+0.0 -0.002) 5 (-0.003 -0.005) Conrod ID 34.95+0.03+0.02435.02 Axial Play 0.2~0.4 0.5 Adjust Radial Play 0.026~0.036 0.06 Replace

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Harley Davidson 1990 and later HSR Choke Cable Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-02-2012

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The majority of HSR42/45 installations use the Harley cable. Installation is simple when the installation instructions are followed, step by step. Those steps are: • Remove the stock Harley choke cable assembly. • Remove the spring and plunger from the stock cable. • Remove the Mikuni “Starter Nut” from the HSR. • Remove the Mikuni spring and plunger from the HSR. • Install the Mikuni spring and plunger on the Harley choke cable. • Install the Harley choke cable with the fitted Mikuni spring and plunger into the HSR carburetor. • DO NOT use the Mikuni Starter Nut; discard it. • DO NOT use the Harley spring or plunger; discard them. Note: If you do not have installation instructions, you may download them from the www.mikuni.com website in the “manuals” section. If the Mikuni Starter Nut is fitted to the Harley cable, the choke plunger is held off its seat and the choke is open all the time. If the Harley spring and plunger are used, the plunger does not seal and the choke is open all the time. The result, in both cases, is very poor fuel mileage (30 mpg or less). Another possible cause of poor mileage, rough idle and fouled spark plugs is incorrect cable routing. The stock Harley choke cable is very stiff and may not be fully seated in the metal elbow at the carburetor end of its run. This condition is easily corrected. On occasion, one of these errors may have been made by someone else at another location. The unfortunate mechanic who inherits the task of correcting the rich condition, poor idle and poor fuel mileage may have no clue as to the mismatch of parts. For this reason, we include the photos and text to help you discover if your installation is correct.

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Harley Davidson Twist Gear and Wide Gear Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 11-04-2012

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Assemble triple lip output seal 705002 and output spacer 280001 together. The seal is shipped with high performance grease packed into the seal lips to ensure lubrication and exclude dust & water. (Caution: Only high temperature grease should be used, grease is better than oil, never install the seal dry.) Slide the quad ring and seal/spacer assembly onto the transmission output shaft, then slide tool JE300001 ( TwistGear TM ) or JE300002 ( WideGear ) onto the shaft and finally tighten the nut until the tool drives the seal flush with the case. Do not attempt to install the main drive seal without the JE tool or the seal will be damaged, and the seal performance will be compromised (the JE seal is wider around the shaft for the third sealing lip, which will be damaged if a tool is pressed against it.) It is best that a new JE spacer be used each time a new seal is installed for quick break-in of the main lip seal surface. Counter Shaft Assembly Note the order and orientation of the gears on the counter shaft when it is removed from the trapdoor. Disassemble the counter shaft and transfer the parts to the TwistGear TM counter shaft. Note that the TwistGear TM counter shaft assembles in different order than the OEM counter shaft. Two washers are required in the position as shown in figure 1 (see arrow) before the retainer ring is installed. The second washer is included in the kit.

Honda / Acura Crank Shaft Seal Kit installation

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 17-11-2011

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Due to the close proximity of transversely mounted engines to the shock tower, this essential tool is crucial for the
proper installation of Cam Shaft Oil Seals. Comes equipped with an exclusive expansion guide ensuring damage free installation. Applicable: Most Toyota 4 cylinder & some Mazda engines. This Special Bonus Kit was designed for the proper installation of Pulley Crank Shaft oil seals, situated within confined areas on most 4, 6 & 8 cylinder Toyota / Lexus, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Mazda and Infiniti engines. Application includes Cam Shaft oil seal installation of Toyota / Lexus 2.5L, 2.8L, 3.0L, 3.4L, 4.0L & 4.3L engines. The step bolts screw into the cam or crank shaft end. The press nut w/ washer allows for an even ressing force, seating the oil seal into the engine case every time

1990 Harley Davidson ULTIMA 6 SPEED BUILDERS KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 09-04-2012

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For 2000 & later models removal of approximately 1/4 of an inch off of the shifter arm bushing is likely required. Doing so will allow installation of the retaining clip & washer onto the shifter arm. It is good practice to double check how much material should be removed before cutting the bushing. See fig. 1 & 2 Install supplied Main drive gear bearings & countershaft needle bearings using special tool # 97-164 NOTE: Lightly coat bearings with assembly lube or gear oil for easier installation. Install supplied Main drive gear retaining clip & verify that it is fully seated and cannot come out. Do not re-use old bearings or retaining clip. Install supplied Main drive gear into bearings using special tool # 97-166 See fig. 3 Install supplied trap door gasket & verify that it is on correctly. Install supplied 6 speed gear set making sure to align the countershaft with the needle bearing assembly. Slowly slide in gear set until the mainshaft & countershaft will not slide in any further. Lightly tapping on the trap door (while verifying that there is no interference) with a soft blow hammer will then fully seat the shafts & trap door. See fig. 4 Once gear set is installed use the supplied 5/16-18×1-1/2 & 1/4-20×1-1/2 bolts to secure the trap door. Torque the 5/16 bolts to 15 ft-lbs w/ red loctite (high strength) Torque the 1/4 bolts to 9 ft-lbs w/ red loctite (high strength) See fig. 5 FIG. 1 FIG. 2 FIG. 3 FIG. 4 FIG. 5 2 FIG. 6 At this time check to make sure all gears rotate freely & that all slider gears slide with no interference. Lightly lube & install supplied quad seal onto main drive gear. See fig. 6 Install Main seal using special tool # 97-164. See fig. 7 Install original spacer onto mainshaft. NOTE: Beveled side goes in towards quad seal. See fig. 8 Install supplied transmission drain plug & supplied speedo sensor plug with gasket. Install supplied shifter forks onto appropriate slider gears. See fig. 9 Lightly lube & install supplied shift fork shafts. NOTE: Short shaft is installed from the right side with the threaded hole facing out. Long shaft is installed from the left side & should not protrude from the right side of case. See fig. 10 Install supplied shift fork shaft allen head plugs. (Use red loctite to prevent movement of plug & to aid in sealing)

AJS DISMANTLING AND REBUILDING FULL-WIDTH FRONT WHEEL HUBS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Removal of the Brake-side Bearing Cup The bearing cup (5) is located endwise by a circlip (1), and between the cup and circlip arc an oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), and oil-seal cup washer (2) Before these parts can be removed from the hub the bearing cup must be moved inwards for a very short distance (3/16-inch) so that the circlip can be withdrawn. (n) Gently heat the hub shell. (i) Place a soft metal rod (e.g. brass) against the oil-seal cup washer (2) and apply pressure with a hand press or hammer blows. It is only necessary to move the bearing cup (5) inwards about 1/16-inch. (j) Extract the circlip by inserting a narrow pen-knife blade under one end of the circlip; lift it upwards and outwards and prise the clip out of its groove. (k) Remove the oil-seal cup washer (2), oil seal (3) and oil-seal retaining washer (4). They can be hooked out with the shank of a small and narrow screw­ driver, (l) The bearing cup can now be ejected by placing a suitable rod of soft metal (e.g. brass) in the hub tunnel from the right-hand side and pressing it — with a press or hammer blows — against the bearing cup until the cup is forced out of the bearing. This must be done with care so that the cup remains square with the housing. Reassembly To facilitate replacement of the bearing cups gently heat the hub shell. Just too hot to hold is about the right temperature. (a) Place the brake-side bearing cup squarely in the hub shell — the open end faces inwards — and press it into the hub tunnel A short length of brass rod, slightly less than the outside dia­ meter of the cup, should be interposed between the cup and ram of the press, or hammer head. Press the cup in until the outer face is approximately half-an-inch below the mouth of the hub tunnel. This will allow sufficient room to allow [he circlip to be inserted into its groove. (b) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), oil-seal cup washer (2). (c) The circlip can now be replaced. In the interest of reliability use a new circlip, for it is possible that the existing circlip was strained when it was re­ moved. (d) Insert into the hub tunnel from the right-hand side a brass rod of suitable length, and press the bearing cup firmly against the circlip. (e) Before inserting the spindle complete with the roller races, pack them with clean and fresh grease of a suitable grade (Mobilgrease No. 4. Castrolease heavy, Energrease C3, Esso Pressure Gun Grease. Shelf Retinax Grease CD or A). (0 Insert the spindle into the hub. (g) Place the right-hand side bearing cup in the hub tunnel; the open end faces inwards, It may be necessary to re-heat the hub to allow the cup to go into position without difficulty. (h) Press the cup into position, but do not force it fully home, leave some end play on the spindle. (i) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (6), oil-seal (7) and oil-seal cup washer (8). (j) Screw into the hub the adjusting sleeve (9) until it comes into contact with the bearing cup (5)

POLINI X1 GENERAL INFORMATION AND SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Polini) by admin on 02-12-2010

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Air cleaner – Clean and reoil daily or after each moto to prevent motor failure and reduced performance. Transmission oil – change after every race, or at end of riding day. Chain – check tension and lubricate before every ride, adjust or replace as needed. Reoil after riding in damp conditions. Clutch – disassemble and clean clutch assembly frequently, every 2-3 races at least. Inspect kickstarter gears at this time. Ignition cover – remove cover and wipe dry after each ride or after washing bike to remove condensation. Piston rings – replace as often as every 3-5 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Piston, pin, rod bearing & circlips – replace as often as every 8-10 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Coolant – change yearly, make sure there is at least a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze if freezing temperatures are possible. Steering bearings – Check daily for looseness or play. Adjust and regrease as needed. Swingarm – Check often for looseness. Regrease several times a year. Replace bushings if any play is evident. Sprockets – check for worn or curved teeth each time chain is adjusted. Chain roller& wear pads – check roller for free rotation when checking chain. Make sure roller is not bent or damaged. Check chain wear strips on swingarm and chain guide frequently. Replace as needed to prevent chain from damaging motorcycle. Spokes – Check after each race or after each day of riding for looseness or damage. Wheels & tires – check wheels after each race for dents, cracks or other damage. Check tires for cuts, damage or wear. Check tire pressure daily and adjust for riding conditions. Shock – Check shaft area daily for signs of oil leakage or damage. Check swingarm and shock bushings for looseness. Forks – Check forks daily for leaking oil or damage to tubes. Make sure forks are not twisted check for smooth operation. Spark plug – check sparkplug color and condition after each race or end of riding day. Adjust jetting to keep plug from fouling or overheating. Silencer – If bike seems to be getting louder, replace packing and decarbonize inner tube. Expansion pipe – check daily for large dents, damage or leakage. Remove carbon from headpipe when pipe is removed. Have large dents fixed, or any dents within 8″ of the cylinder. Replace o-rings on pipe as needed to maintain a good seal. Footpegs – check daily for proper operation, pegs should spring back into place. Make sure pegs are not bent or overly dull. Handlebars – check bars after any crash for bending. Look for cracks near bar clamps. Replace bars that have been straightened more than 2 or three times, or if bar is badly bent. Aweakened bar can snap suddenly causing injury to rider. Throttle – check throttle for proper operation each time before bike is started. Remove and clean inside of grip and bar as needed. Grips – check grips daily for wear or looseness. Replace as needed. Use grip glue & safety wire to help hold grips in position. Calipers & pads – check pad wear and caliper function daily or after each race. Replace pads and clean calipers as needed. Brake lever – check lever daily for damage or wear. Make sure lever is at proper angle for both seated and standing positions. Leave lever clamp loose enough to allow clamp to rotate during crash rather than breaking lever. Check and adjust freeplay as needed. Brake pedal – Check pedal daily for damage and proper freeplay. Adjust rear caliper as needed. Reeds – Remove and inspect reed block during every ring change. Check reeds for signs of wear, fraying and cracking. Make sure reeds sit flat and seal well. Replace at any sign of wear or damage or at least once a year, more often for expert riders. Nuts & bolts – Check all nuts and bolts regularly. Make sure to check engine mounting bolts and swingarm bolt frequently

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BMW F 650 GS Repair Manual And Maintenance schedule

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 19-11-2010

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Replace oil in telescopic forks Check the coolant and restore to correct level if necessary *) Replace the coolant (every 2 years) every 2years Check valve clearances, adjust if necessary Replace the spark plug Drain the outlet hose from the air filter box Replace intake air filter If motorcycle is operated in very dirty or dusty conditions, clean or replace the intake air filter every 10,000 km (6,000 miles); check every 3,000 km (1,800 miles) Replace fuel filter (every 20,000 km/12,000 miles) 20,000 km Check clutch play, adjust if necessary Check wheel spoke tension and tighten if necessary more frequently if motorcycle is ridden in severe off-road conditions Examine brake pads and discs for wear, replace if necessary *) more frequently if motorcycle is ridden in severe off-road conditions Check brake fluid level at front and rear and top up if necessary *) Check for operation of brake system and freedom from leaks; repair/replace if necessary *) Replace the brake fluid at least once a year Replace the primary front/rear brake master cylinder cup (every 40,000 km/24,000 miles on a motorcycle with ABS ) 40,000 km Check wheel bearings and replace if necessary *) Check or, if necessary, replace chain, sprocket, chain guide rollers and pinion *) more frequently if motorcycle is ridden in severe off-road conditions Check chain tension and adjust if necessary *) Check battery acid level, add distilled water if necessary more frequently if motorcycle is ridden in severe off-road conditions Clean and grease the battery terminals, if necessary Check steering head bearings and adjust *) or replace if necessary *) Grease the side and main stands Grease the brake pedal Check bolts and nuts on engine mountings, frame connections, exhaust system mountings, swinging fork pivot, suspension levers, brake pedal, main and side stands and quick-release axles for tightness Final inspection with road safety and functional check

HARLEY DAVIDSON VRSC CHROME WHEEL KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 18-03-2011

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Installation To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove maxi-fuse before proceeding. (00251a) 1 WARNING 1 WARNING ® Kit Numbers 41279-04, 41282-04, 41463-05, 41467-05, 41633-05, 41634-05, 41640-05, and 41639-05 1 of 3 Figure 1. Rear Wheel Removal i02495 1. Axle (keep) 2. Axle adjuster (keep) 3. Axle nut (keep) 4. “E”-clip (keep) 5. Spacer (3) (keep) 6. Torx screw (5) (replace) 7. Brake disc (keep) 8. Wheel assembly (replace) 9. Valve cap (keep) 10. Compensator bowl (keep) 11. Compensator cushion (keep) 12.12 pt screw (5) (keep) 13. Lockwasher (5) (keep) 14. Sprocket assembly (keep) 1. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the MAXI-FUSE instructions to remove the right-side cover and maxi- fuse. Proceed to Step 2 for the wheel being replaced. Rear Wheel 2. See Figure 1. Remove the rear wheel per the REAR WHEEL, REMOVAL instructions in the Service Manual. 3. Disassemble, clean and inspect all parts to be re-used per Service Manual instructions. 4. Re-assemble all saved components to the new chrome rear wheel assembly. See REAR WHEEL, ASSEMBLY in the Service Manual. Do not re-use brake disc screws. Re-using disc screws can result in torque loss and damage to rotor and/or brake assembly. (00319b) 5. Fasten the brake disc to the valve stem side of the wheel using the Torx®screws from the kit. Install the compensator bowl with the 12-point screws and lockwashers saved earlier. 6. Install the new wheel to the rear fork. Refer to REAR WHEEL, INSTALLATION in the Service Manual. Proceed to Step 7. Front Wheel 2. See Figure 2. Remove the front wheel per the FRONT WHEEL, REMOVAL instructions in the Service Manual. 3. Disassemble, clean and inspect all parts to be re-used per Service Manual instructions. Mark the left and right brake discs so they can be re-installed to the same location. 4. Re-assemble all saved components to the new chrome front wheel assembly. See FRONT WHEEL, ASSEMBLY in the Service Manual. Do not re-use brake disc screws. Re-using disc screws can result in torque loss and damage to rotor and/or brake assembly. (00319b) 5. Using the Torx ® shoulder bolts from the kit, and the saved spring washers fasten the brake discs to the same side of the wheel from which they were removed. 6. Install the new wheel to the front forks per the FRONT WHEEL, INSTALLATION instructions in the Service Manual. Proceed to Step 7. Front and Rear Wheels 7. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the MAXI-FUSE instructions to replace the maxi-fuse and right-side cover. After servicing brakes and before moving motorcycle, pump brakes to build brake system pressure. Insufficient pressure can adversely affect brake performance, which could result in death or serious injury. (00279a) After servicing the brake system, test brakes at low speed. If brakes are not operating properly, testing at high speeds can cause loss of control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00289a) Maintenance and Cleaning Chrome parts must be maintained regularly to ensure that they keep their original shine and luster. 1. Clean heavily-soiled wheel surfaces using Harley Wheel and Tire Cleaner, part number 94658-98, applied with Harley Wheel and Spoke Brush, part number 43078-99. 2. Thoroughly clean chrome with a good quality chrome cleaner, such as Harley Bright Chrome Cleaner, part number 94683-99. 3. After cleaning and polishing, seal the finish with a good quality sealer such as Harley Glaze Polish and Sealant, part number 99701-84

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RACE TECH SUSPENSION SERVICE TOOLS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 01-12-2010

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SHOCK SEAL BULLET TOOL “Bullet Tools” make seal head installation onto shafts quick and easy. 35-8677 TSSB12512.5 x 10mm Shock Seal Bullet 35-8678 TSSB1414 x 12mm Shock Seal Bullet 35-8679 TSSB1616 x 12mm Shock Seal Bullet FORK CAP WRENCH 46/50MM Black Oxidized steel construction for superior strength. Multiple applications (46/50mm): Honda CR250 (97-00), Suzuki RM125/250 (96-00), and removes compression adjuster assembly on Suzuki RM125/250 (98-00). Sold each. 35-8670 TFCW4650 Fork Cap Wrench SHAFT HOLDING TOOL Holds fork damping rods, cartridges, shock shafts, etc. while servicing. (aluminum) 35-8672 TFSH10 Shaft Holding Tool 10, 12, 12.5, & 14mm (Dampning Rods) 35-8673 TFSH14 Shaft Holding Tool 14, 16, & 18mm (Shock Shafts) 35-8674 TFSH20 Shaft Holding Tool 20, 24, & 29mm (20 & 25mm Fork Cartridges) 35-8675 TFSH32 Shaft Holding Tool 32 & 35mm (28 & 32mm Fork Cartridges) ULTRA SLICK SEAL GREASE Race Tech Ultra-Slick Grease provides maximum lubrication and minimum friction for all seal and bushing needs. Available in 1 oz. container. 35-8682 Ultra Slick Seal Grease SHOCK SEAL HEAD SETTING TOOL Allows easy removal and installation of all 40 – 46mm integral shock seal head assemblies. 35-8676 TFSH32 Shock Seal Head Setting Tool SAG MASTER™ The Sag Master is a tool that makes measuring “Race Sag”a snap because you read it directly. No more subtracting! Also useful in determining proper spring rates and monitoring linkage and seal drag. Comes with complete instructions and, doubles as a tape measure. 35-8681 TSSM01 Sag Master Race Sag Setting Tool FORK SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL This unique fork spring compressor is designed to work on most current sport bikes and road racers. It allows the spring to be compressed while the fork cap is removed from the rod. It can be used on or off the bike on most models. 35-8680 TFSC01 Fork Spring Compressor Tool

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