how to set timming on 97 kawasaki praire 400 4x4

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Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool Instruction Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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System Function Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool (FI Tool) is developed to modify the mapping of the racing machine to gain operating conditions suitable for the course and the rider’s skill. The following are the available setting functions. Table 1 FI Tool Function Model Name Functions Available Setting Range ’04 ZX-10R ’05 ZX-6RR ’05 ZX-10R ’06 ZX-10R ’07 ZX-6R 1) Adjust the injected fuel rate at acceleration -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 2) Adjust the injected fuel rate of No.1 and No.4 cylinder -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 3) Adjust the injected fuel rate of No.2 and No.3 cylinder -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 4) Adjust the injected fuel rate of primary and secondary injector * -30 % ~ +30 % -10 % ~ +10 % — – — 〇 — – — – — 〇 5) Adjust the ignition timing -15°CA~ +5°CA 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 6) Adjust the sub-throttle opening angle -50 % ~ +50 % -45 % ~ +45 % 〇 — – 〇 〇 — 〇 — – 〇 7) Adjust the exhaust device opening angle -50 % ~ +50 % 〇 — 〇 〇 — 8) Adjust the all injected fuel rates of all cylinders and operating are a simultaneously -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 9) Adjust the value of engine over revolution limiter 0 ~ +300 rpm -1000 ~ +700rpm -1000 ~+1200rpm — – — 〇 — – — 〇 — – — 〇 〇 — – 10) Set the fuel cut or not at deceleration Use or Not Use 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 11) Set the sub throttle controlled or not Controlled or Full Open Fixed 〇 — – — – 12) Set the exhaust device controlled or not Controlled or Full Open Fixed 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 13) Set the Auto Shifter Ignition Cut Length Controlled or not, set Ig. Cut Time by gear range — – 〇 〇 〇 14) Set the Pit Road RPM Limit Controlled or not, set Upper Limit RPM by gear range

Kawasaki KFX KLX 400 Camshafts Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Remove the plug bolt from the back of the cam chain tensioner assembly. It is under pressure from the spring. Remove the spring and pin. Remove the bolts and tensioner assembly from the cylinder. Release the lock on the tensioner assembly and push the tensioner rod into the assembly so that it is fully retracted. Remove the eight 5mm Allen headed bolts that hold the cam caps in place. Remove the cam caps; be aware of the locating dowels in the caps to keep them from falling into the engine. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the caps to lift them off their dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobe as the pry point. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain; dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets and bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head. Set the exhaust camshaft into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. Check the location of the cam lobes. The camshafts are marked, and preset to 108-degree centers. If the lobes are not where they should be, adjust the positioning of the camshaft by rotating the sprocket one tooth on the chain. Do this until it is in the correct position as before you removed the camshafts. Check the positioning of the crankshaft for the TDC mark

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Kawasaki Exhausts – ZX-6 ZX-10 Zx-14 Exhaust – Slip-ons INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo

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4X4 – TRUCK, 4RUNNER 4X4 FRONT AXLE BEARING REPLACEMENT

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 31-10-2011

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To reduce front spindle bushing noise which may be experienced during severe cold ambient temperatures, a new needle roller bearing and thrust bushing have been made available for use in place of the original bushing. Note: This repair is applicable only to 4X4 vehicles produced after 8/89. INSTALLATION PROCEDURE: 1. Remove front axle bushings (refer to applicable service manual section). 2. Install needle roller bearing using SST #09620-30010, tool #5 or equivalent bearing driver. Reference: Bearing must be installed with flat side (I.D. number and part number) facing outward. Refer to illustration.

Kawasaki Vulcan 400/ 800 Preload Improvement Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 01-12-2010

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1. Begin by removing both side compartment covers. The RH compartment cover requires the use of the ignition key for removal; the LH compartment cover is secured by a large Phillips screw. Once you’ve removed the LH cover, place the Phillips screw back into the hole in the frame (so you don’t misplace it) and set both covers aside. In many applications, you must remove the upper exhaust pipe (from the rear cylinder), and loosen the other pipe, to remove the inner parts of the RH side compartment cover (see below). Before attempting step #2 below, try step #3 first… depending on the brand of exhaust pipes you have, you may be able to avoid removal in step #2, if you are successful with step #3 first. Some brands of exhaust pipes provide access to the fasteners securing the RH side covers, eliminating the requirement to remove pipes for rear suspension access. 2. Remove the rear cylinder’s exhaust pipe. To do so, remove the two Allen nuts on the exhaust header, where it attaches to the engine, using an 8mm Allen wrench. Most often, this goes much more smoothly if you first spray the inside of the allen nut with a penetrating lubricant like WD-40. Remove the black acorn nut from the discharge end of the exhaust pipe (under the upper exhaust pipe, near the discharge end of the pipe) using a 12mm open-end wrench or socket. You’ll find a black metal spacer, through which the bolt goes, that is pressed through the rubber grommet. To avoid the potential of having it fall out unnoticed, remove it and place it aside with the nut. Remove the black bolt from the pipe just aft (to the rear) of where the pipe enlarges and above the pipe. This is actually a bracket that holds the two pipes together at a joint. Loosen the bolt using a 12mm socket, then slide it back onto the pipe you’re removing. Once you have the pipe off of the bike, the clamp will be loose. Be sure to keep it with the pipe, along with the rest of the removed parts. Loosen the pipe from the front cylinder BEFORE trying to remove the pipe from the rear cylinder. By loosening the header nuts on the pipe from the front cylinder, and removing the two black Allen bolts (6mm Allen wrench) under the forward pipe that attach it to the frame, you will be able to remove the rear pipe. There are more spacers in grommets where the 6mm Allen bolts secure the lower pipe to the frame (like those used in the rearmost connection o

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KAWASAKI 400 PRAIRIE ATV WINCH MOUNT INSTALLATION ISTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Place the mounting plate into position on the front bumper tube assembly and attach with the four ¼- 20 u-bolts, hex nuts, and lock washers. See the illustration below for detail. 2. Place winch onto the mounting plate and attach with the four 5/16-18 hex bolts and lock washers that came with the winch. See the illustration below for detail. NOTE: There are two sets of mounting holes to accommodate the 3.0ci winch, A2000 and A2500 winches. 3. Tighten all fastners securly at this time. Place the vinyl caps on the ends of the ¼-20 u-bolts, to cover up the sharp edges of the u-bolts that are exposed. 4. Make all electrical connections. Use the winch manuel that came with the winch for instructions to make all electrical connections

Kawasaki KFX 400 SR4 4 Stroke racing system INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Installation Motoworks exhaust 1. Install Motoworks tailpipe with muffler using bolt supplied in kit. (Fig 3) 2. Tighten tailpipe mounting bolt. 3. RECHECK ALL YOUR WORK 4. We recommend that you clean the entire exhaust system with a mild detergent, i. e. glass cleaner prior to starting as any oily residue may cause permanent staining. 5. Before operating check for proper clearance between Motoworks exhaust and ATV i. e. frame, plastic, brake line, fuel line etc. if problems exist, recheck work. Note: It is normal for the new exhaust to emit white smoke the first time you start the ATV. This is from the oil used during manufacturing.

KAWASAKI TERYX 750 CLUTCH KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove both seats from the vehicle. Next, remove the passenger side lower body panel. There is a mixture of Philips head screws and also plastic push pin fasteners that have to be removed. 2. With the side panel off, the next item to remove is the plastic housing over the engine. These are all “push in” style plastic clips that hold it in place. Once all the pins are out, you can slide the housing off and set it aside. 3. Now the lower long plastic panel under the seat has to be removed (again mainly plastic push clips to remove) . Once they are all out, carefully remove and set aside. 4. Next, remove the fuel tank. Remove the two lines on the top of the tank. There are two straps that hold the tank in place. Remove the bolt from each strap, remove the straps, and lift the fuel tank out. 5. Now the bracket that holds the fuel pump on has to be removed. There are two bolts here to take out. Once this is done, mark the two wires to the coil and disconnect them. Set the bracket out of the way . 6. Next, the clutch cover bolts can be removed and the norkel on the housing can be loosened and i Teryx 750 Clutch Kit Instructions 5/1/09 removed. Take the clutch cove off and set out of the way. 7. With the clutch visible, you can remove the secondary clutch with a large impact wrench and metric socket . 8. Remove the bolt from the primary clutch. This is a left hand thread on the bolt. Next you will need a Kawasaki drive clutch puller (part #352251) to pop the clutch loose. If you do not have a puller, the spring cap can be removed on the vehicle and the weights can be changed out in there as well. 9. With the clutches sitting on the bench, remove the bolts that hold on the spring cover. Remove the stock spring and the stock weights 10. After reading the directions on the new weights, add the correct amount of weight to each clutch weight and install them in the clutch. Place the weight to the left side in the clutch pocket and then install the aluminum spacer. Repeat this process for the other three weights. 11. Install the new spring supplied in the kit and install the spring cover, paying close attention to the arrows on the cover. 12. Next, remove the stock spring from the secondary. It is recommended that you use the TEAM Compression tool (part # 930001) for this. With the clutch on the compression tool, compress the spring retainer down far enough to remove the snap ring with the needle-nose pliers . Slowly back off the t-handle and remove the tool.

KAWASAKI VULCAN 700/750 CRUZER EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 28-12-2010

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REMOVING THE STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Place the bike on the center stand. 2. Remove the three clamps attaching the heat shield to the left hand head pipe and set the heat shield aside. 3. Remove the two heat shield clamps attaching the heat shield to the right hand head pipe and set the heat shield aside. 4. Loosen the pinch clamps where the mufflers slip onto the muffler box (the black box in front of the rear tire). Remove the bolt attaching the mufflers to the footrest. 5. Remove the left and right hand mufflers and set them aside. 6. Remove the right hand foot rest and brake pedal assembly from the frame. 7. Loosen the pinch clamps where the head pipes slip into the muffler box. 8. Remove the two nuts that secure the right head pipe to the cylinder head. Repeat this step on the left head pipe and save the nuts for reuse. 9. Remove the left and right hand head pipes. Remove the header flange from each head pipe and save the two flanges for reuse. Set the head pipes aside. 10. Remove the two bolts (one on each side) that mount the muffler box to the frame. Lower the muffler box down and set it aside. INSTALLING YOUR NEW VANCE & HINES EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Remove the two bolts from the charcoal canister mount, the canister is located in front of the rear tire. Using the two 6mm x 16mm bolts (supplied) install the centerstand stop bracket, (stamped 205), by aligning the holes in the bracket with the holes in the canister mount. Be sure the bend closest to the holes in the bracket angles towards the rear of the motorcycle and the tang is pointed to the left hand side. Tighten the two 6mm bolts at this time. 2. Unscrew all of the hose clamps (supplied) until they are completely loose. Feed the tail end of the hose clamp into the clips on the inside of both heat shields. Place the front head pipe into the heat shield, wrap the hose clamp around the head pipe and give the screw three to four turns. Repeat this step with the rear heat shield. Note : The screw end of the hose clamp should be accessible, but not visible when pipe is mounted on the bike. Leave them loose at this time. 3. Install a three hole mounting bracket to each muffler as shown in figure 1. Slide one dog bone shaped nut plate under the bracket that is welded to the backside of each muffler. Attach the mounting bracket using two of the 5/16″ flange head bolts (supplied), leave them loose at this time. Note : The muffler bracket stamped #284 is for the right hand muffler, bracket #285 is for the left hand muffler. 4. Install the rear exhaust assembly, with the heat shield attached, to the rear cylinder using the stock flanges and nuts. Install the stock muffler mounting bolts through the rear footrest brackets, the supplied muffler brackets, and finger tighten the nuts. Leave them loose at this time. 5. Repeat step #4 with the front head pipe

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