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YAMAHA ROADLINER AND STRATOLINER LAY DOWN LICENSEPLATE/ TAIL LIGHT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the license plate. Remove the license plate holder assembly from the rear fender (three 8mm Allen bolts 5mm wrench). Remove the five 4mm Allen screws underneath the rear fender which secure the taillight/turn signal assembly to the rear fender (3mm wrench). As shown in photo #2, pull the taillight assembly out away from the fender, turn it over, place a towel or rag between the light and fender and allow it to rest on the fender. 2. Locate the supplied triangular license plate mounting block, two 8 x 20mm Allen screws with holes driiled thru and three rubber washers. Place the two Allen screws thru the upper holes in the block and the rubber washers over the screws on the backside of the block. Start the screws into the upper holes on the fender. Use one of the three screws removed earlier from the original mount in the remaining lower hole of the new block sliding the remaining rubber washer between the block and fender. Tighten all three Allen screws secure enough to compress the rubber washers (4-6 ft lbs.). 3. Locate the supplied license plate mounting plate and LED lights. Cut off the excess red and black wires at the end of the black loom or tube. Referring to photo (1) thread the wires of the LED lights thru the small holes in the mounting plate, peel the cover from the adhesive backing on the lights and press them firmly into place as shown. 4. Locate the three supplied ¼” x ½” flat head Allen screws. Hold the plate up to the mounting block installed earlier with the wires at the bottom of the plate. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the holes in the upper bolts of the block. Install the plate onto the block using the three flat head screws being sure to keep the exposed wire behind he plate as short as possible and fitting into the slot or cut out at the edge of the block. Snug the screws and again check to see tat the wires are in the slot or cut out in the block and do not become pinched as the screws are tightened. Tighten the screws securely. 5. Where the wires from the taillight go thru the fender there is a grommet, pull this grommet out from the fender. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the grommet with the other wires. Replace the grommet into the fender and remove any slack from the wires under the fender. Cut the LED wires off at 6″ past the grommet. 6. Referring to photo (2) remove 2″ of the black tubing exposing the red and black wires on the LEDs. Locate the supplied brake/tail light dual function element (a red wire at one end with a red and orange wire at the other) and wire connectors. Cut all three wires on the dual element to 3″ long. Strip the end of the single red wire on the element and both of the red wires from the LEDs then connect them using one of the blue butt connectors. Connect the two black wires from the LEDs to any one of the black wires on the tail light or signals using one of the supplied splice connectors (place both black wires into one of the holes on the connector). Using the remaining splice connectors attach the red wire from the dual element to the yellow wire on the tail light and the orange wire to the blue wire on the tail light. Turn on the ignition and check that the LEDs are working both as tail and brake lights when the brakes are applied.

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Harley-Davidson Road King Handlebar Removal and Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 18-03-2012

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If the wire length appears to be too short, you will have to lengthen the wires. If that’s the case, I must stress that soldering your wires is far superior to using butt splices. Wiring can be pulled from the splices and the splices themselves will take up a lot of room, making your harness bulky. To extend your wires, ensure the wire segments you are going to splice into the harness are of the same gauge as the original harness. Also, it’s a good idea to cut all of the wire segments now, ahead of time, to the same measured length. This will ensure that once all of the new wire Figure 4. Handlebar harness plug wires as they appear from the back of the plug (where the wires enter the plug from the harness) segments are spliced in, all of the finished wires are of the same length and the pins are lined up. Work from wire to wire, cutting them by staggering the cuts about an inch or so apart (see figure 5). This will prevent a bulge in your harness where all the soldering connections are. After cutting each wire, slide on a two-inch piece of heat shrink tubing before starting your soldering. Remove about ¾” of insulation from the ends of the two wire ends (one wire end being the harness, the other being the segment of new wire being spliced in). Halfway down the length of its exposed section, bend each wire 90 degrees and hook the two wire segments together at the bends. Holding the wires securely with a pair of pliers, twist them in opposite directions around each other. Make sure the ends of the wires are wrapped as tight as possible so their sharp points will not cut through the heat shrink tubing when it’s applied. Apply some soldering flux (a little is all you need) and solder the connection by first applying your soldering iron (or gun) to the wire and then applying the solder to the wire. You should not apply the solder directly to the iron as overheating the solder can lead to poorly made solder joints and improper conduction of electricity. When the connection has cooled, slide your heat shrink tubing over the joint and heat it so that the tubing shrinks, making a nice tight seal.

HARLEY DAVIDSON DETACHABLE QUARTER FAIRING AND DOCKING HARDWARE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-03-2011

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Installation The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley- Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (00333a) NOTE If your motorcycle has directional lights mounted on the upper fork bracket they must be relocated to the bottom fork bracket. Some models have front directional lights equipped with three wires, the third black wire is a ground wire. Check to determine how many wires are connected to the front directional lights and follow the following procedure that applies. Ifdirectional lights are not mounted on the upper fork bracket proceed to “ASSEMBLING FAIRING”. Relocating Two Wire Directional Lights 1. Support motorcycle on a center stand such that front wheel is raised slightly off the ground. 2. Remove fork tube pinch screw from right side of lower bracket. 3. Cut wires connected to right directional light about 2 in. away from directional light body. 4. Remove fork tube pinch screw from right side of upper fork bracket. (This is the screw that secures the right directional light.) 5. Install right directional light on right side of lower fork bracket using pinch screw removed in step 4. Install pinch screw removed in step 2 into right side of upper bracket. Tighten both pinch screws to 30-35 ft-lbs. 6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 to relocate left directional light. NOTE Fork tubes may slide downward within fork brackets. If this occurs, front fork tube extension above front fork upper bracket will have to be readjusted according to appropriate Service Manual procedures. 7. Connect the right directional light as follows: Strip approx. 5/16 in. of insulation from the wires cut in step 3. 8. Crimp solderless connectors from kit on two wires coming from motorcycle. 9. Split one end of the 2-conductor polarized wire from kit back about 2 in. and strip 5/16 in. of insulation from wire ends. 10. Slide a piece of shrink tubing from kit over each of the wire ends stripped in step 9 and crimp the wires into the terminals installed in step 8. Make sure you connect the silver and copper colored wires to like colored wires. NOTE Polarized wire is used in this application to ensure correct wiring. One wire is silver, one is copper colored. Wire colors of spliced wire must match wire color of original directional wire leads. 11. Cut polarized wires to the length required for connection to the wires at the relocated directional light. Make certain you leave enough slack in wires to allow routing the harness along the fork tube. 12. Split remaining end of the 2-conductor polarized wire from kit back about 2 in. and strip 5/16 in. of insulation from wire ends. 13. Slide heat shrink tubes over the two wire end. 14. Strip 5/16 in. of insulation from wires connected to directional light and connect like colored wires at directional light with connectors from kit. 15. Slide heat shrink tubing over connectors installed in steps 10 and 14. Activate shrink tubing with heat gun or hair dryer.

motorcycle Turn Signal Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 09-11-2010

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1. Place motorcycle on solid, level ground and on center stand if equipped. 2. Remove your turn signal lens. Place it upside down and clean the lens interior with the supplied alcohol wipe. Allow to completely air dry. Note: the LEDs are mounted to the inside of the turn signal lens with the LEDs making direct contact with the lens. The supplied silicone is used to secure the LED board to the lens. It remains flexible but can be removed. Test fit the board in your lens prior to using silicone. 3. Using a small screwdriver, poke a small hole in the end of the tube of silicone. Place a dab of silicone on each of the 12 LEDs on the circuit board. CAUTION : Note the position of the metal pins on the back of the LED board, They must be located 90 degrees from where the holes are that secure the lens to the housing. See attached diagram. 4. Position the round circuit board over the inside of your turn signal lens with the LEDs facing down. Get the board as centered as possible. Allow the silicone to make contact with the inside of the lens and then push down and slightly rotate the board back and forth to allow the LEDs to make contact with the lens surface. Repeat other side. NOTE : the silicone will require 30 minutes in 70 degree weather to tack up. Full cure will occur within 24 hours. We suggest not riding for several hours if possible to allow the best adhesion. 5. You will need to access the following wires; running light (license plate can be used), brake lights, right turn and left turn. Disassemble the bike as needed to gain access to the wiring. Shop Tip: we have found that on the Yamaha Star Series and the Kawasaki Cruisers that installation is much easier when you remove the turn signal bar from the fender. On the Yamahas, there are 3 bolts holding the moustache in position. The wires will unplug from behind the license plate. On the Kawasakis, unplug the signals under the seat and bend the tabs under the fender to be able to remove the wires. 6. We have provided some tubing to slide over the wires so that when you re-install the bulb socket, our wires for the LED boards will not be pinched. This tube should be slid all the way into the turn signal housing. You may have to shorten the tubing for your installation. 7. You will need to run wires through the stem of the turn signal. You can see samples of how the various manufacturers signal housings come apart on our web site. Click on “Other Lighting Products” and then “Turn Signal Conversion Kits” and follow the link. We suggest placing the removed turn signal assembly on a towel on your work area. 7. You will need to leave 2″ of slack in the wires at the turn signal housing to allow for wire connection. 8. Reinstall the turn signal housing back on the motorcycle if removed. NOTE: both of the run/brake circuits must be used. You may shorten the wires only on the run/brake circuits as needed. Do not change the circuits under the heat shrink. T-Tap instructions. Lay the “donor” wire in the slot in the burgandy connector. Close and snap together with pliars. Strip some insulation off of the wire which will be tapping into the factory wire. Crimp one of the pink connectors on the bare wire and plug it into the burgandy T-Tap 9. Connect the green wires from the run/brake circuits to the bikes running lights. The 2 greens can be connected together. 10. Connect the blue wires from the run/brake circuits to the bikes brake lights. The 2 blues can be connected together. 11. Take one of the red wires from a run/brake circuit and connect it to one of the black with white stripe wires coming from one of the LED boards using the supplied red butt connector. Connect the other run/brake circuit red wire to the remaining black with white stripe wire on the other LED board. 12. Connect the black wire from the LED board on the right side of the bike to the right turn signal positive (+) wire on the motorcycle. 13. Connect the black wire from the LED board on the left side of the bike to the left turn signal positive (+) wire on the motorcycle. 14. Plug the wires into the LED boards. If you hold the turn signal lens so that you are viewing the back of the LED board, position the connectors on the board at the 12 o’clock (top) position. The connector on the left is the positive (+) terminal. Connect the red wire to it. Connect the black wire to the remaining connector on the right side. 15. Check operation. LEDs should come on with running lights. LEDs will brighten when brake lights are applied. LEDs will shut off when the amber turn signal comes on. 16. Should you have any problems, please see the troubleshooting chart on our website.* * 17. Reassemble bike

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SPORSTER, DYNA AND SOFTAIL LICENSE / TURN SIGNAL RELOCATOR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the license plate. Remove the license plate mounting bracket from the fender. Remove the two screws from the tail light lens and pull the light outward, unplug the wire connector and set aside. Unplug the turn signal wire connectors from the tail light base and push them out thru the hole in the fender. Looking up underneath the rear fender remove the wires from the clips that secure them to the bottom side of the fender. Cut the wires 2″ from the plugs as shown in photo 1. 2. Unscrew the signal housings from their mounting stems while rotating the wires on the inside of the fender so as not to twist them off while unscrewing the signal from the stem. Remove the signals pushing the wires thru from the inside while pulling the signal outward. Remove the nuts from the backside of the fender that secure the stems and remove the stems. 3. Assemble the license/turn signal bracket, turn signals. Place the smaller reinforcing bracket inside the license plate bracket. Locate the two supplied 5/16″ X 1″ bolts with holes drilled thru the center and the two supplied 5/16″ long spacers. Place the bolts thru the brackets from the inside, threads facing outward followed by the spacers. Thread the wires of the signals thru the bolts and thread the bolts into the signals and snug the bolts. 4. Mounting the LED lights a. Locate the supplied LED tail/brake lights. NOTE: this license plate holder is designed for the new U.S. standardized 7″ wide license plate. If you have an old style wider plate call us at the phone number below and we will send you a separate set of chrome brackets to work with your larger plate at no charge. b. Install the lights as shown in photos 2 & 3. Thread the wires of the LED lights thru the lower holes in the license bracket, peel the adhesive backing and press them firmly in place. Cut the wires off at about 18″ long. c. Install the license plate bracket with signals and LED lights onto the rear fender as shown in photos 2 & 3. Place the two supplied 1/4″ X 1″ flat head screws thru the license plate mounting block. Notice that the thicker half of the mounting block goes toward the top of the fender. d. Next route all the wires from the right turn signal and LED into the slot or notch on the backside of the mounting block followed by the rubber mounting gasket. Install the two nuts from the underside of the fender (Removed from the original license bracket.) onto the two flat head screws and snug them being sure the wires are all in the slot of the mounting block. Run all of the signal and LED wires thru the hole in the fender to the left of the mounting block. e. Install the license plate assembly onto the mounting block using the two supplied 1/4″ X 1/2″ flat head screws. Check the slack from all the wires and again be sure the wires are not pinched between the mounting block and the fender. Tighten all four flat head screws securely. Align the turn signals and tighten their mounting bolts securely.

2001 Honda GL1800 Oxygen Sensor Replacement Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 05-04-2011

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REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the top shelter (see page 2-10 in the Service Manual). 2. Remove the left and right O 2 sensors from the exhaust pipes. • You do not have to remove the exhaust pipes to remove the O 2 sensors. • Be sure to note the wire routing for proper reassembly. 3. Install the new O 2 sensors and route the wires properly (see pages 1-33 and 1-34 in the 2001- Service Manual). 4. Connect the black 4P female coupler of the sub- harness kit to the wire harness side black 4P male coupler (for the left-side O 2 sensor). 5. Connect the new left O 2 sensor to the black 4P coupler on the sub-harness. 6. Route the sub-harness from left to right, across the front edge of the fuel tank and secure it with the clip on the cruise actuator 7. Cut off the right 4P male O 2 sensor coupler (on the wire harness side). 8. Install a PVC cap onto the end of the Black/yellow wire and Green/red wire (these are the wires that were connected to the coupler that was removed in step 7). Fold each cap back and tape it securely to its wire; these wires are no longer used. • Do not cut the wires off, just tape them back. • The tape is supplied in the replacement kit. 9. Strip the ends of the White and Black/red wires (which were connected to the coupler that was removed in step 7) on the wire harness side and the 2P coupler on the sub-harness. Install a heat shrink tube on each wire of the sub harness. 10. Twist the ends of the White and Black/red wires of the sub-harness 2P coupler to the White and Black/red wires of the main harness. 11. Solder the wires using the solder from the kit. 12. Use a heat gun to secure the heat-shrink tubing over the soldered wires. 13. Connect the right O 2 sensor coupler to the white 4P male coupler on the sub harness.

HARLEY-DAVIDSON LARGE LED SILVER BULLETS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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PROCEDURE STEP 1*Remove the stock turn signal fixtures and cut the wires in a convenient and inconspicuous splice location. STEP 2**Place the split lock and flat washers on to the hollow bolts as shown in PIC. 1. Run the power leads through the hollow bolts and assemble the Silver Bullets to their mounts. See PIC. 2. STEP 3*Install the new Silver Bullet assemblies to the Mount Bar on the motorcycle. The stock 10-24 x 1/2″ socket head screws are to be re-used. PROCEDURE fOR AMBER DUAL CIRCUIT (fRONT WIRING) LED SILVER BULLET WIRE COLOR CODING IS AS fOLLOWS: Black — Ground Blue — Running Lights (power) Violet — Turn Signal (power) STEP 1 Turn key on. Test OEM stock front turn signal wiring with test light. STEP 2 Locate and mark the running light (power) wire. STEP 3 Individually activate the turn signals and mark the side-appropriate wires. STEP 4 Use the color code above to solder/connect the corresponding Silver Bullet wires to your Join like colored wires on the Silver Bullets and the bike’s turn signal harnesses. Insulate your connections. Route the wires safely out of harms way and tie the wires in place with nylon cable ties. 1995-EARLIER MODELS With a test light, probe the two black wires leading to each of the stock front turn signals. On each side, the wire that has power only when the turn signal button is depressed is the turn signal positive wire. The wire that is “hot” constantly when the key is on is the running light wire. Connect the violet wire from the Silver Bullet to the bikes turn signal wire, and the blue Silver Bullet wire to the bikes running light wire. Connect the black wire from the Silver Bullet to a known good chassis ground (bare metal). Insulate your connections. Route the wires neatly out of harms way and secure them with nylon cable ties. When replacing stock incandescent turn signals with LED lights, it may be necessary to add a load equalizer to make the turn signals flash properly. NOTE: When using Amber Dual Circuit Silver Bullets in rear applications, blue running lights (power) wire will not be used. To avoid corrosion, tape off bare wire. Test the lights for run and flash functions. If they light, but do not flash in the turn mode, add the load equalizer. The load equalizer has one black and two violet wires. The violet wires are not side specific. NOTE: LED Turn signals require the use of one Load Equalizer PER PAIR OF LED TURN SIGNALS to achieve the proper flash function. It is perfectly normal for the equalizer to get warm (about 140 degrees) during turn signal operation.

YAMAHA ROADSTAR TRIKE Removal of Clear Taillights and installation of Red Taillights

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 16-02-2011

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1 Installation of Lights 1.1 Support the trike on jack stands and remove the wheels. 1.2 Remove the clear lights from the inside of the wheel wells by unscrewing the three (3) screws from the light. 1.3 Unplug the wires and remove the lights. 1.4 Remove the chrome bezels and rubber gaskets from the clear lights and install on the red lights (5 screws). 1.5 Re-connect the wire plugs and install the red lights to the trike body using the same three screws. 1.6 Replace the wheels and torque the lug nuts to 75 lb.ft. 2 Wire modification inside trunk 2.1 From the inside of the trunk pull back the carpet on both the left and right hand sides to expose the wire harnesses coming from the wheel wells. 2.2 Locate the resistors in the harness, 2.5″ x 0.5″ x 0.5″, and covered by black shrink wrap. 2.3 Cut the shrink wrap to expose the resistors and cut wire on both side of the resistors. Remove and discard resistors. 2.4 Splice in the supplied 5″ green wires (WITHOUT the diodes) with 2 blue scotchlock connectors per side to reconnect the cut wires. 2.5 Do not glue in carpet until lights are tested. 3 Change to pigtail from Trike to Motorcycle. 3.1 Remove driver’s sear 3.2 Unplug pigtail from motorcycle (MC) wiring and trike body wiring. 3.3 Cut heat shrink on the MC plug side of the pigtail and pull expansion sleeve back to expose the wires. Figure 1 3.4 Cut Green and Yellow turn signal wires and about 3″ from the MC plug and splice in Green and Yellow wires from the supplied resistors with the supplied hest shrink solder connectors (heat to be applied) – (three wires in one connection) Figure 1 3.5 Cut the Red (Brake) and Brown (Running lights) wires and splice in the supplied diodes with the supplied heat shrink solder connectors. Red side of the diode wire facing the Trike plug. Figure 1 3.6 Connect eye lug on the black wire from the resistors to the negative terminal of the battery. Figure 2 3.7 Plug pigtail back into the Trike body and the MC

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CUSTOM LED 2004-2006 YAMAHA ROAD STAR INTEGRATED TAIL KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1 ) REMOVE THE SCREWS ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE TAIL LIGHT THAT HOLD THE CHROME TRIM TO THE TAIL LIGHT. 2 ) POSITION YOUR CUTTING WHEEL AS SHOWN IN THE PICTURE TO THE LEFT WHERE THE CLEAR PART OF THE LENS TURNS 90 DEGREES. THE CUTTING WHEEL SHALL REMAIN IN THE PLANE OF THE LENS. 3 ) PROCEED TO CUT INTO THE CLEAR LENS APPROXIMATELY HALF OF THE THICKNESS, ALL THE WAY AROUND THE PERIMETER OF THE LENS – BE SURE NOT TO CUT ALL THE WAY THROUGH BECAUSE IT WILL NOT GLUE BACK TOGETHER PROPERLY. SEE “TIPS FOR CUTTING YOUR LENS” BEFORE BEGINNING. TIPS FOR CUTTING YOUR LENS A) KEEP THE CUTTING WHEEL MOVING AND APPLY LIGHT PRESSURE. SITTING IN ONE SPOT WILL JUST MELT THE PLASTIC. WHEN YOU MAKE YOUR WAY AROUND THE ENTIRE PERIMETER, CLEAN ALL THE BURRED PLASTIC FROM AROUND THE EDGES AND FROM INSIDE THE GROOVE YOU’VE MADE. OPENING THE LENS 4 ) PLACE THE TIP OF A FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER IN THE GROOVE YOU HAVE CREATED. 5 ) GENTLY TWIST THE SCREWDRIVER TO CRACK THE GLUE ALONG THE GROOVE. NOTE: AS SOON AS YOU HEAR THE SOUND OF THE GLUE GIVING (A CRACK), MOVE THE SCREWDRIVER SLIGHTLY AND ADVANCE THE CRACK. SLOW AND STEADY IS THE NAME OF THE GAME HERE. IF YOU FIND A HARD SPOT, WEAKEN IT WITH THE CUTTING WHEEL AS NECESSARY. THE HARD PART IS OVER! YOU CAN RELAX NOW! 2 ©2005 Custom LED LLC. All Rights Reserved. 6 ) REMOVE THE SCREWS HOLDING THE STOCK LED BOARDS TO THE HOUSING (YOU WILL BE REUSING SOME OF THE SCREWS SO PUT THEM TO THE SIDE). 7 ) REMOVE THE STOCK LED ASSEMBLY FROM THE LENS HOUSING. YOU WILL NO LONGER NEED THE STOCK LED BOARD, DISPOSE OF IT AS YOU WISH. 8 ) GENTLY PRY OFF THE PLASTIC COVER TO EXPOSE THE DRIVER BOARD UNDERNEATH. 9 ) REMOVE THE SCREWS SUPPORTING THE DRIVER BOARD AND SNIP OFF THE THREE WIRES (BLUE, BLACK, YELLOW) AS SHOWN AS CLOSE TO THE CIRCUIT BOARD AS POSSIBLE! YOU WILL NEED TO CONNECT TO THESE WIRES LATER. 10 ) POP OUT THE LITTLE BLACK PLUG AS SHOWN IN THE PICTURE. YOU CAN POKE IT OUT FROM THE INSIDE OF THE HOUSING. WIRING UP YOUR CUSTOM LED BOARD PLACE YOUR CUSTOM LED INTEGRATED TAIL BOARD NEXT TO THE HOUSING AND MATCH THE WIRE COLORS AS FOLLOWS: TRY TO HANDLE THE CIRCUIT BOARD AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE AS FINGERPRINTS AND DIRT WILL HINDER THE PERFORMANCE. • BLACK ON HARNESS TO 6″ BLACK ON CUSTOM LED BOARD • BLUE ON HARNESS TO 6″ BLUE ON CUSTOM LED BOARD • YELLOW ON HARNESS TO 6″ YELLOW ON CUSTOM LED BOARD USE THE THREE (3 OF 5) SUPPLIED ORANGE SPLICE CONNECTORS. PUSH THE TWO WIRES TO BE SPLICED TOGETHER INTO THE OPEN END. BE SURE TO PUSH THE WIRES ALL THE WAY IN (UNTIL YOU CAN SEE THEY HAVE REACHED THE OTHER SIDE). NOTE: YOU WILL NEED TO SEPARATE THE THREE WIRES FIRST BY CUTTING THE PLASTIC COLLAR THAT BINDS THEM. FOR THE WIRES TO FIT PROPERLY INTO THE CONNECTORS, YOU MUST ALSO REMOVE THE REMNANTS OF THE COLLAR FROM THE WIRES. NOTE: THE SPLICE IS MORE RELIABLE IF THE WIRE IS NOT STRIPPED. BE SURE TO SNIP OFF THE BARE ENDS OF THE WIRES ON THE CUSTOM LED TAIL TO ENSURE THAT THERE IS INSULATION WHERE THE SPLICE WILL OCCUR. THE SUPPLIED SPLICE CONNECTORS AUTOMATICALLY DISPLACE THE INSULATION AS NECESSARY. ONCE YOU DOUBLE CHECK YOUR COLOR MATCHING AND ARE ABSOLUTELY SURE THAT THE WIRES ARE FULLY INSERTED INTO THE SPLICE CONNECTORS DO THE FOLLOWING: 11 ) SQUEEZE THE SPLICE CONNECTORS FIRMLY WITH PLIERS. VISUALLY INSPECT YOUR CONNECTIONS TO SEE THAT THEY HAVE BEEN SPLICED PROPERLY INSIDE. 12 ) RUN THE GREEN AND BROWN WIRES THROUGH THE HOLE YOU OPENED UP IN STEP 9

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Harley-Davidson FXWG, FXST (all except FXSTS), FXDWG Light Bar INSTALLATION AND OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 20-03-2012

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1. Put a pair of male and female clamp halves together just above the lower triple-clamp. Squeeze the ends of the clamp together with a pair of pliers. Diagram A. 2. Have an assistant position the Light Bar Assembly so the lightbar bracket is to the outside of the clamp assembly. Make sure the wires from the Light Bar Assembly are below the lower triple clamp. Diagram B. 3. Insert a Screw through the clamp and Light Bar Assembly mounting bracket and thread on an Acorn Nut. 4. Hold the Light Bar Assembly in place in front of the lower triple clamp, assemble and attach the remaining clamps. 5. With all four clamp assemblies in place, tighten the clamping screws and nuts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm). Refer to the service manual to gain access to the wire harness inside the fuel tank tunnel or inside the frame backbone. Also, verify the appropriate color wires for hook-up of the passing lamps and turnsignals and running lights. Route the wires from the Light Bar Assembly, around the lower triple- clamp, and up to the frame backbone. Secure the wires so they cannot become pinched when turning the fork. A. The short black wires from the Light Bar Assembly connect to the wires powering the running lights. B. The short red wires from the Light Bar Assembly connect to the wires powering the turnsignals. C. The long blue wires from the Light Bar Assembly connect to the wire powering the headlight low beam. After the wires are connected, verify the operation of the passing lamps, running lights and turnsignals. Correct any connection problems before reassembling the motorcycle. Reinstall the fuel tank. Check all fasteners used during this installation for tightness

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