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Harley-Davidson CHROME HANDLEBAR SWITCH CAP KITS installation and REMOVAL manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 09-03-2012

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1. Open or remove seat according to the instructions in the Service Manual. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect battery cables (negative (-) cable first) before proceeding. (00307a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 2. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) cable first. 3. Remove left and right-hand switch housing assemblies. Refer to HANDLEBAR SWITCHES in Service Manual. NOTE It is not necessary to disconnect the switch wiring to replace the switch caps. 4. Remove individual switches from switch housing. Refer to SWITCH REPAIR/REPLACEMENT in Service Manual. INSTALLATION Upper Housing Switches 1. For HORN and START switch caps, release torsion spring leg from hole in switch cap tab. Take note of how the spring is installed. The other leg of the spring can remain in the switch bracket hole. 2. See Figure 1 and Figure 5. Carefully pry stock black switch cap up off the splined actuator shaft (2) on left side of switch. -J02633 1 of 5 5 2 1 1 3 4 is 01405 1. Switch cap installed correctly 2. Switch cap removal from splined shaft 3. Switch cap removal from pivot pin 4. Switch cap installation onto pivot pin 5. Switch cap installation onto spined shaft Figure 1. Switch Cap Removal and Replacement 3. Pry the switch cap up and away from pivot pin (3) on right side of switch, and remove cap. NOTE Use the clear protective cover film to protect the chrome surface of the switch caps during installation. Remove the film after the installation is complete. 4. See Figure 5. Select proper chrome replacement switch cap from kit. 5. See Figure 1. Place cap onto switch, angling the hole on right side over pivot pin (4) on switch. 6. Carefully press switch cap down onto splined actuator shaft (5), rocking and moving the cap until shaft snaps into place in splined hole. 7. For HORN and START switch caps, insert torsion spring leg into hole in switch cap tab. 8. Toggle switch back and forth, checking for proper opera- tion. Turn Signal Switches 1. See Figure 1 and Figure 5. Carefully pry stock black switch cap up off the splined actuator shaft (2) on switch. 2. Pry the switch cap up and away from pivot pin (3) on switch, and remove cap. 3. Select proper chrome replacement switch cap from kit. Peel a clear protective installation cover from the sheet and place it over the surface of the cap. 4. See Figure 1. Place cap onto switch, angling the hole on top over pivot pin (4) on switch. 5. Carefully press switch cap onto splined actuator shaft (5), rocking and moving the cap until shaft snaps into place in splined hole. 6. Toggle switch back and forth, checking for proper opera- tion.

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The Honda VTX 1300 Keyless Ignition Switch Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 04-11-2011

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Remove the seat from the motorcycle.2. Lift the ignition module off of the battery cover and let it drape over the side of the motorcycle. 3. Remove the battery cover and disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. Remove the gas tank and set it aside. There is a vent line at the right rear of the tank, a vacuum line and the gas feed line on the left side of the tank at the petcock, and two speedometer connectors at the left front of the gas tank. 5. Remove the clip from the top of the steering head cover and remove the right hand side cover. See picture at right. 6. Remove the headlight to expose the wiring connectors inside the headlight shell. 7. Remove the left-hand side cover. On the left side of the frame is an electrical wire shroud wire tied to the left side of the frame with a reusable wire tie. Inside this cover is the 3-pin connector that connects the ignition switch to the bike’s wiring harness. Pull the small lever back to release the wire tie and remove the wire tie. Pull back the wire shroud to reveal the wire connectors inside. Disconnect the 3-pin connector that comes from the ignition switch. Remove the two bolts holding the ignition switch to the bike’s frame. See Picture at right. Remove the ignition switch from the bike. You may have to remove the connector body from the ignition switch wires to slide the wires through the frame when removing the ignition switch. You may now reinstall the side cover. 8. Lay the new wiring harness along the backbone of the bike with the two 9-pin connectors at the headlight and the 6-pin and 3-pin connectors at the battery. Insert the two 9-pin connectors through the large hole in the back of the headlight shell. Inside the headlight shell is a red 9-pin connector. Disconnect this red 9-pin connector and insert the new wiring harness connecting each side to the red 9-pin connectors. See picture at right

HI-4 DUAL FIRE MOTORCYCLE IGNITION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Turn ignition switch off and disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Refer to Figure 3. Remove OE ignition module and wire harness (items 1-4). You will disconnect two wires at the coil (15), a wire going to the VOES (Vacuum Operated Electrical Switch) (18), a black ground wire at the ignition module, and the 3 pin plug (20) that connects to the sensor plate (11). Refer to shop manual for locations. 3. Remove ignition cover plates and gasket (items 5- 9). This will require drilling out two rivets. The rivets will later be replaced with two supplied self- threading screws. 4. In order to remove the sensor plate cable, the cable plug (20) must be removed first. Use needle nose pliers to pull the terminals out of the plug. Then pull the cable through the exit hole at the bottom of the timing cover. 5. Note location of sensor plate (11). There is a V notch in the sensor plate used for alignment. When you install the HI-4, you should align the V notch in the same location. This should set the timing close enough to start the engine. Remove and save the two standoffs and washers (10). Remove the sensor plate (11). HI-4 INSTALLATION Refer to Figure 4. The HI-4 requires use of the OE timing rotor P/N 32402-83 (used only on 1985 and newer models). If you have an older model or are not sure, check the rotor (9) for the correct part number. For models prior to 1980, use the supplied 10-32 x ¾”bolt and washer to mount the rotor. 1. Install the HI-4 system in place of the OE breaker or sensor plate. Rotate the HI-4 about 90 degrees to give better access to the cable exit hole. Install the HI-4 first, then push the cable through the hole. On some early models it may be necessary to enlarge the wire harness exit hole in the gear cover. Align the V notch on the HI-4 same as the OE plate you removed. Use the OE standoffs to secure the HI-4. You must use lockwashers under the standoffs for proper clearance between the HI-4 and cover plate. Do not fully tighten the standoffs until the timing has been set. 2. Route the HI-4 wire harness along the frame rails up to the coil. Make sure that harness will not be chafed or burned by exhaust heat. Secure harness with tie wraps. Do not install timing cover. HI-4 HOOKUP Crimp terminals and hardware are supplied for your convenience. Use the ring terminals for coil hookup. Use male-female quick disconnects for connections to the tach and vacuum switch (VOES). Tape up any unused wires. 1. Circuit Breaker Cover Screws (2) 2. Circuit Breaker Cover 3. Circuit Breaker Cover Gasket 4. Breaker Plate Screws (2) 5. Breaker Plate Screw Lockwashers & Washers (2 each) 6. Retainer (1971 to early 1972) 7. Circuit Breaker Cam Bolt 8. Breaker Plate Assembly 9. Breaker Cam 10. Advance Assembly 11. Gear Case Cover 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Damage will result if the brown tach wire comes in contact with +12V. Figure 1. Harley-Davidson®OE Points System
9000-4002A REV A 3 2/05 1. Identify switched +12 volt wire and tach wire (if equipped) going to the coil. Refer to your service manual, or reconnect the battery and use a test light or voltmeter. The switched +12 volt wire will be hot when the ignition key is turned on. 2. Refer to Figure 5. Connect the HI-4 red wire and switched +12 volt wire to Coil positive. 3. The HI-4 white wire is not used and should be taped. 4. Connect the HI-4 black wire to the Coil negative terminal. 5. Connect the HI-4 green wire to the vacuum switch (Figure 3, item 18), if used. 6. Connect the HI-4 brown wire to the tach wire, if equipped with tach. Tape up if unused. 7. The HI-4 is grounded via the timing housing; a separate ground connection is not required. 8. Reconnect battery ground cable. Verify proper ground connections to the frame and engine. VOES HOOKUP The OE vacuum switch (VOES) is normally an open circuit. Above 3-5 inch-Hg vacuum, the VOES closes and grounds the vacuum input on the OE ignition module. This increases the total advance generated by the OE ignition module. Vacuum advance improves part throttle 17 16 1. Cover Screws (2) 2. Ignition Timer Cover 3. Ignition Module 4. Timer Plate Screws (2) 5. Washers (2) 6. Screws & Washers (2 each) 7. Shield 8. Sensor 9. Trigger Rotor Bolt 10. Timer Plate 11. Trigger Rotor 12. Advance Assembly 13. Gear Case Cover 14. Ignition Coil 15. Spark Plug Wires (2) 16. Ignition Coil Terminal (FX) 17. Ignition Coil Terminal (FL) 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Most motorcycle coils do not have terminals marked. Use either terminal for Coil+ (positive) and the other one for Coil- (negative). Warning: The HI-4 (8-1100) Dual Fire ignition will not work with 2 plugs per head, dual coil application. Damage will result if attempted. Use the HI-4 (8-2100) single fire ignition for 2 plugs per head applications

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1982-2005 Harley Motorcycle Removal and Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-03-2012

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” bolt from the mounting stem on the Signal® mirror. While seated on the motorcycle, position the Signal® mirror on the handle bar. Secure the Signal® mirror to the handle bar using the 5/ 16 ” bolt. Make sure the bolt is tight! Guide the Signal® mirror wire harness into the cowling by going along side the existing factory wire harness. 4 Remove any slack in the wire harness. Secure the wire harness to the handle bar using a supplied tie wrap. 5 6 Adjust the position of the Signal® mirror and tighten the ball retention screws. Remove the motorcycle seat. Remove the aft mounting bolts on the fuel tank. 7 Guide the Signal® mirror wire harness along the inside of the fuel tank’s front mounting bolt and between the crossover tube. 8 9 Lift up the aft portion of the fuel tank and guide the Signal® mirror wire harness down the backbone of the motorcycle frame, alongside the existing factory wire harness. The motorcycle’s electrical wiring for turn indicators is located aft of the gas tank on the backbone of the frame. Guide the new wire harness from the Signal® mirror to the electrical wiring. Cut off any excess slack in the wire. Locate the SOLID BROWN wire from the wire connector. Turn the ignition key so that electrical power is on and activate the right side turn indicator. Probe the wire with the wire tester to verify that flashing turn indicator power is present. Label that wire as ‘right side turn’. Repeat all of the previous steps to replace the left side factory mirror with the new Signal® mirror. Locate the SOLID VIOLET wire from the wire connector. Activate the left side turn indicator and probe the wire with the wire tester to verify that flashing turn indicator power is present. Label that wire as ‘left side turn

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SR-C400 Motorcycle Security System INSTALLATION MANUAL AND USER'S GUIDE

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Routing the Antenna Wire The MCM includes an 18″ antenna wire. The first 12″ is a coaxial wire; the remaining 6″ is the reception antenna wire. When routing, try to avoid running the antenna along or near metal. For best performance, have the antenna wire as vertical as possible and exposed. Wire Connections The system includes one harness (HAR-1a) that connects directly into the MCM. The harness is split into three plugs: one for the GEN-1a connector, one for the optional SN-5 connector and one for the data output for future expansion. Note: Each plug is unique and will only fit the appropriate component one way. Main Harness Note: If the optional factory connector kit is being used, please disregard this section of the instructions and refer to the instructions supplied with the factory connector kit. The main harness consists of two harnesses. One is labeled (HAR-1a) and the second is labeled (GEN-1a). Plug in the white 4 pin connector from the (HAR-1a) into the matching 4 pin connector from the (GEN-1a). The (HAR-1a) also has a waterproof connector that plugs into the MCM. The wires should be connected as follows: HAR-1a Black wire with fuse and ring terminal – To battery Positive (+). GEN-1a Black wire – To ground (-). Orange wire – To tail light wire or any other wire that is hot (+) when ignition is ON (NOTE: this is an input to the alarm this connection is not designed to flash the tail light). Color Codes: Ground (-) Tail Light Honda Green wire Brown wire Kawasaki Black wire Red wire Suzuki Black/White Brown wire Yamaha Black wire Blue wire Harley Davidson Black wire Blue wire

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LED SHOW LIGHTING INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIOINS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-12-2010

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1. The kit is supplied with 4 “cluster” lights that project a round flood lighting pattern and 4 “array” lights that have a narrow fan type pattern. Determine where you would like to mount the supplied lights, switch and wiring connections. You may want to hook up one of the lights with some long jumper wires connected to the battery and hold it in various places to see what will show off your bike best. The idea is to see the light reflected off your bike and not see the light fixture. 2. Mount the lights and switch using the supplied primer and 2-sided adhesive pad. Apply the primer to the backside of the lights and switch; let it dry for 5 minutes. Remove the protector from one side of the adhesive pad and apply. Apply the primer on the motorcycle where the lights and switch will be mounted and let it dry for 5 minutes. Remove the protector from the adhesive pad and mount the lights and switch. 3. Refer to the provided wiring diagram. The wiring is color-coded and connects in parallel. All of the black wires connect together through the BLACK wire of the 2 conductor black jacketed wire (Ground Wires). All of the colored wires connect together through the RED wire of the 2 conductor black jacketed wire (Power Wires). Connections may be soldered, crimped with solderless connectors, or twisted together. 4. Measure and cut the supplied 2-conductor black-jacketed wire to the lengths that are needed to connect the lights and switch. When routing the wire from any lights that you have mounted to the front make sure you have provided enough slack at the steering head to be able to turn the front wheel full left and full right without damaging the lights or wires. Also be sure the wire is at least æ” from any exhaust pipe. 5. Join each connection and cover with the supplied heat shrink tubing. NOTE; All wire connections must be insulated. Cut a piece of the provided heat shrink tubing long enough to cover the connection completely. 6. Connect one wire from the switch to the RED wire of the lights with one of the supplied blue butt connectors. Connect the second wire from the switch to one wire from the fuse holder with the other blue butt connector. Connect the second wire from the fuse holder to the positive (+) battery terminal using one of the supplied fork connectors. 7. Connect the BLACK wire of the lights using the other fork connector to a ground connection. (The negative (-) battery terminal or motorcycle frame.) 8. Secure all loose wires by using the supplied cable ties. Check the front wheel again to be sure there is enough wire slack for turning.

2008 SUZUKI GSX 1300 RK IGNITION SWITCH INSPECTION/ REPLACEMENT

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 29-11-2010

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INSPECT ROUTING 1. Remove the upper and lower meter panels (refer to Service Manual page 9D-15). 2. Check if the ignition switch lead wire is clamped and routed correctly. Incorrect positions are shown in Figures 1 and 2. Correct routing and clamping is shown in Figures 3 and 4 on page 5. REROUTING 1. Reroute the ignition switch lead wire correctly (Figure 3 and Figure 4). The ignition switch lead wire should not be covered by the other wire harnesses. 2. Turn the handlebars back and forth to verify that the steering operates smoothly and the wiring harness does not become kinked or pinched. 3. Proceed to PUNCH MARK AT VIN on page 8. from the motorcycle (refer to Service Manual page 1H-12). Remove the two black plastic covers to access the cylinder cap mounting bolts (Figure 5). Note: The black plastic covers will not be reused. Secure the mount area (bottom) of the ignition switch in a vise (Figure 6). NOTE: Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position and remove the key from the ignition switch before disassembling the switch. Remove the two “break-off” screws from the ignition switch using the special screwdriver. Set the stepped end of the sleeve on the special screwdriver facing toward the “break-off” screws (Figure 7). Strike the special screwdriver 5 to 7 times with a hammer to produce a deep enough groove on the screw head for the screwdriver to work properly (Figure 6). Pay attention not to hit other parts with the hammer. Turn to remove the “break-off” screws in a counterclockwise direction. If the groove becomes damaged, make another groove at a 90o angle to the original groove. Remove the ignition switch from the vise and hold it upright over the workbench and carefully remove the cylinder cap (Figure 8). NOTE: Pay close attention to the order and orientation of the ignition switch parts during disassembly. REPLACEMENT OF IGNITION SWITCH (Customer Sold Units/Dealer Demo Units- Only If Inspection Shows Incorrect Routing And Unit Has Been Ridden) New Ignition Switch Disassembly 2.

motorcycle Turn Signal Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 09-11-2010

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1. Place motorcycle on solid, level ground and on center stand if equipped. 2. Remove your turn signal lens. Place it upside down and clean the lens interior with the supplied alcohol wipe. Allow to completely air dry. Note: the LEDs are mounted to the inside of the turn signal lens with the LEDs making direct contact with the lens. The supplied silicone is used to secure the LED board to the lens. It remains flexible but can be removed. Test fit the board in your lens prior to using silicone. 3. Using a small screwdriver, poke a small hole in the end of the tube of silicone. Place a dab of silicone on each of the 12 LEDs on the circuit board. CAUTION : Note the position of the metal pins on the back of the LED board, They must be located 90 degrees from where the holes are that secure the lens to the housing. See attached diagram. 4. Position the round circuit board over the inside of your turn signal lens with the LEDs facing down. Get the board as centered as possible. Allow the silicone to make contact with the inside of the lens and then push down and slightly rotate the board back and forth to allow the LEDs to make contact with the lens surface. Repeat other side. NOTE : the silicone will require 30 minutes in 70 degree weather to tack up. Full cure will occur within 24 hours. We suggest not riding for several hours if possible to allow the best adhesion. 5. You will need to access the following wires; running light (license plate can be used), brake lights, right turn and left turn. Disassemble the bike as needed to gain access to the wiring. Shop Tip: we have found that on the Yamaha Star Series and the Kawasaki Cruisers that installation is much easier when you remove the turn signal bar from the fender. On the Yamahas, there are 3 bolts holding the moustache in position. The wires will unplug from behind the license plate. On the Kawasakis, unplug the signals under the seat and bend the tabs under the fender to be able to remove the wires. 6. We have provided some tubing to slide over the wires so that when you re-install the bulb socket, our wires for the LED boards will not be pinched. This tube should be slid all the way into the turn signal housing. You may have to shorten the tubing for your installation. 7. You will need to run wires through the stem of the turn signal. You can see samples of how the various manufacturers signal housings come apart on our web site. Click on “Other Lighting Products” and then “Turn Signal Conversion Kits” and follow the link. We suggest placing the removed turn signal assembly on a towel on your work area. 7. You will need to leave 2″ of slack in the wires at the turn signal housing to allow for wire connection. 8. Reinstall the turn signal housing back on the motorcycle if removed. NOTE: both of the run/brake circuits must be used. You may shorten the wires only on the run/brake circuits as needed. Do not change the circuits under the heat shrink. T-Tap instructions. Lay the “donor” wire in the slot in the burgandy connector. Close and snap together with pliars. Strip some insulation off of the wire which will be tapping into the factory wire. Crimp one of the pink connectors on the bare wire and plug it into the burgandy T-Tap 9. Connect the green wires from the run/brake circuits to the bikes running lights. The 2 greens can be connected together. 10. Connect the blue wires from the run/brake circuits to the bikes brake lights. The 2 blues can be connected together. 11. Take one of the red wires from a run/brake circuit and connect it to one of the black with white stripe wires coming from one of the LED boards using the supplied red butt connector. Connect the other run/brake circuit red wire to the remaining black with white stripe wire on the other LED board. 12. Connect the black wire from the LED board on the right side of the bike to the right turn signal positive (+) wire on the motorcycle. 13. Connect the black wire from the LED board on the left side of the bike to the left turn signal positive (+) wire on the motorcycle. 14. Plug the wires into the LED boards. If you hold the turn signal lens so that you are viewing the back of the LED board, position the connectors on the board at the 12 o’clock (top) position. The connector on the left is the positive (+) terminal. Connect the red wire to it. Connect the black wire to the remaining connector on the right side. 15. Check operation. LEDs should come on with running lights. LEDs will brighten when brake lights are applied. LEDs will shut off when the amber turn signal comes on. 16. Should you have any problems, please see the troubleshooting chart on our website.* * 17. Reassemble bike

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1999-2001 DUCATI Monster INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 25-10-2010

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It is essential to use Blue Loc-tite on all nuts and bolts. Remove any other steering stabilizers. 2) Cover the tank with an old sweatshirt or protective device so you don’t scratch it. 3) General concept for this mount: The new key cover is the anchor point for the stabilizer, so it must be fitted correctly as per the instructions below. The base of the new key cover must sit flush all the way around to provide the support needed. The bolt lengths are critical, so be sure you read the instructions carefully so you know which bolts go in which spots! 4) Remove the (4) 8x85mm Allen bolts that hold your handlebars tight. There are plastic plugs in the tops of these bolts that must be removed before you can access the Allen head. Replace the stock top barclamp with the one provided in the kit. 5) Tighten the 4 bolts evenly so the gaps between upper and lower perches, front to back, are even. 6) Remove the (2) 6x12mm Allen bolts and the plastic key cover that covers your key switch. 7) Fit the new billet aluminum key cover over the key switch and be sure the new cover is sitting down flush all the way around on the frame. It needs to be touching the frame to function properly. We’ve machined this part to fit precisely on the bike but each bike can vary slightly due to machining variations from the Ducati Factory. The new key cover should center itself by locating on the 2 spacer/nuts underneath. You might need to loosen the 2 bolts on the underside of the frame to allow those spacer/nuts to find their centering point on our key cover. 8) Note: Your stock key switch itself has a casting knub near its base that could restrict our new cover from sitting all the way down flush. We’ve machined a clearance notch inside our part for this knub to fit into, but it is possible it could vary from bike to bike, which might require a bit more clearance filing. Be sure the key cover is sitting down flush against the frame. 9) We’ve machined the key cover to fit over a 20mm spacer nut / .805″. If for some reason the stock “spacer/nuts” are too tall, you may have to file them slightly to allow the Billet key cover to sit down flush and touch the frame. 10) Once the key switch cover is flush against the frame, all the way around it’s base, retighten the bolts that hold the spacer/nuts secure from the under side of the frame using Loc-tite. Reinstall the (2) 6x12mm stock key cover bolts to a maximum of 6-ft/lbs . The stock key cover bolts are designed to engage 6mm of thread in the spacer nut. Do not be tempted to use any longer bolts than 6x12mm or they can prematurely bottom out which will keep the key cover from tightening. Shorter than 6×12 or if the cover is not flush, makes it possible to damage the threads. Double check these key-cover bolts after your first ride, as they may loosen after initial movement from the damper

HARLEY DAVIDSON VRSC FUEL TANK SIDE COVER KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 05-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. Note the left and right areas on frame where the covers will be installed. Using a 50/50 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water, thoroughly clean the frame tubes surrounding the fuel cell on the left and right sides. Let dry completely. 2. Unlock and open seat. NOTE Loosening the ignition/light switch screw (in the following step) will allow much easier alignment of the ignition/light switch cover and ignition/light switch during installation. 3. See Figure 1. At area inside of frame rail just above the ignition/light switch housing, loosen the ignition/light switch screw just enough to allow the ignition/switch switch to move slightly from side to side and up and down. Do not completely remove screw 4. See Figure 4. Obtain the right side cover bracket (ignition/light switch side) from kit. 5. Remove the strips protecting the adhesive at all of the raised sections on the cover. 1 2 is 02045 1. Ignition/Light Switch Screw 2. Ignition/Light Switch Figure 1. Loosen Ignition Switch Assembly 6. See Figure 2. Carefully align the right side cover between the three frame tubes. Beginning with the left portion of the cover, press the cover between the upper and lower frame tubes until the raised portions of cover (with adhesive) begin to snap into place. While carefully aligning the right portion of the cover, move the ignition/light switch as necessary until centered within hole in cover, then firmly press into place. Adjust ignition/light switch until the switch is centered within cover. Make sure all raised locations (with adhesive) are firmly contacting the upper and lower frame tubes and that cushion rests against front vertical frame tube. 7. See Figure 1. Tighten the ignition switch screw to 6-10 Nm (53-88 in-lbs ) . NOTE The right side (ignition/light) switch cover surface can be damaged by the key fob (from vibration) when the key is in the ignition and the bike is running. You can either remove the key fob so it does not damage the cover surface, or you can install the plastic clear sheet (included in kit) onto the side cover for protection. 8. If desired, perform the following to install the plastic clear cover onto the ignition/light switch cover. a. Obtain the plastic (rhino) sheet and hold up to the switch cover to determine proper orientation and spacing. b. Carefully peel the adhesive backing from the plastic sheet and position onto the cover. Use a wet sponge, and working out from the center, rub out any bubbles or overlapped areas under the sheet. Allow to dry completely.

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