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Vespa GTS Super Specification

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Filed Under (Vespa) by admin on 11-11-2010

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Gts super 300 ie Gts super 125 ie s 125cc s 50cc Gts 250 ie Gts 125cc LX 125cc LX 50cc 2 stroke Engine Single-cylinder, catalised, QUASAR 4 stroke, 4 valve electronic injection Single-cylinder LEADER 4 stroke with electronic injection Single-cylinder LEADER 4 stroke Single-cylinder HI-PER 2 stroke Single-cylinder, catalised, QUASAR 4 stroke, 4 valve electronic injection Single-cylinder, catalised, LEADER 4 stroke, 4 valve Single-cylinder LEADER 4 stroke Single-cylinder HI-PER 2 stroke Capacity 278cc 124cc 124cc 50cc 249cc 124cc 124cc 49cc Power 16.4 kW / 7500 rpm 10.5 Kw / 9500 rpm 7.65 Kw / 8250 rpm 3.2 Kw / 7500 rpm 15.7 Kw / 8500 rpm 7.65 Kw / 8250 rpm 7.65 Kw / 8250 rpm 2.5 Kw / 8500 rpm Max Torque 22Nm / 6500 rpm 12 Nm / 8000rpm 9.6 Nm / 7250 rpm 4.4 Nm / 6500 rpm 20.1 Nm / 6500 rpm 9.6 Nm / 7250 rpm 9.6 Nm / 7250 rpm 3.3 Nm / 6500 rpm Cooling Liquid Liquid Forced Air Forced Air Liquid Liquid Forced Air Forced Air Starter Electric Electric Electric and kick starter Electric and kick starter Electric Electric Electric and kick starter Electric and kick starter Transmission Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Front Suspension Single arm, dual chamber hydraulic shock absorber with coaxial spring Single arm link with coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Single arm link with coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Single arm link with coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Rear Suspension Two dual effect shock absorbers with adjustable preload Coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Twin hydraulic shock absorbers with preload adjuster Twin hydraulic shock absorbers with preload adjuster Hydraulic shock absorbers with preload adjuster Hydraulic shock absorber Front Brake ø 220mm disc brake 220mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake Rear Brake ø 220mm disc brake 220mm disc brake ø 110mm drum brake ø 110mm drum brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 110mm drum brake ø 110mm drum brake Front Tyre Tubeless 120/70-12″ Tubeless 120/70 – 12″ Tubeless 110/70 – 11″ Tubeless 110/70 – 11″ Tubeless 120/70-12″ Tubeless 120/70-12″ Tubeless 110/70 – 11″ Tubeless 110/70-11″ Rear Tyre Tubeless 130/70-12″ Tubeless 130/70 – 12″ Tubeless 120/70 – 10″ Tubeless 120/70 – 10″ Tubeless 130/70-12″ Tubeless 130/70-12″ Tubeless 120/70 – 10″ Tubeless 120/70-10″ Running weight 158kg 158kg 114kg 96kg 151kg 145kg 114kg 96kg Length/Width/Height 2230mm / 755mm / 1170mm 1930mm / 755mm / 1930mm 1770mm / 740mm / 1140mm 1755mm / 740mm / 1140mm 1930mm / 755mm / 1170 mm 1940mm / 755mm / 1180 mm 1770mm / 740mm / 1140mm 1755mm / 740mm / 1140mm Fuel Tank Capacity 9 litres 9 litres 8.5 litres 8.5 litres 9.2 litres 10 litres 8.5 litres 8.5 litres Emmissions Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 2 Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 2 Colours Rosso Dragon Nero Lucido Montebianco Rosso Dragon Nero Lucido Montebianco Taormina Nero Lucido Montebianco Taormina Nero Lucido Montebianco Marrone Terra Di Toscana Bronzo Perseo Nero Vulcano Blu Midnight

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Cobra Motorcycle and ATV Specifications CX65 CX50 Sr. (The King) CX50 Jr. ECX 70 ECX 50 ECX80AC

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Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 14-11-2010

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Dry Weight 122 lbs 91 lbs 81 lbs 210 lbs 206 lbs 210 lbs Engine Cobra 65cc 2-stroke Cobra 50cc 2-stroke Cobra 50cc 2-stroke Cobra 70cc 2-stroke Cobra 50cc 2-stroke Cobra 80cc 2-stroke Bore x Stroke 44.5mm x 41.7mm 39mm x 41.7mm 39mm x 41.7mm 44.5mm x 44.7mm 39mm x 41.7mm 47.6 mm x 44.7mm Induction Case Reed V-Force® Reed Valve- 24mm Mikuni carb Case Reed Carbon Pedal 19mm carb Case Reed Carbon Pedal 14mm carb Case Reed V-Force® Reed Valve- 24mm Mikuni carb Case Reed Carbon Pedal 21mm carb Case Reed V-Force® Reed Valve- 24mm Mikuni carb Cooling Water cooled Cylinder and Case Water cooled Water cooled Water cooled Cylinder and Case Water cooled Water cooled Cylinder and Case Clutch Hydraulic ally actuated Cobra 3Gx 3-Shoe Cobra 3Gx 3-Shoe Hydraulic ally actuated – (auto option) Cobra 3Gx 3-Shoe Rekluse Z-ball auto-clutch Transmission Six-speed sequential Single-speed auto Single-speed auto Six-speed sequential Single-speed auto Six-speed sequential Exhaust Tuned pipe and silencer Tuned pipe and silencer Tuned pipe and silencer Tuned pipe and silencer Tuned pipe and silencer Tuned pipe and silencer Lubrication Mixture lubrication Mixture lubrication Mixture lubrication Mixture lubrication Mixture lubrication Mixture lubrication Fuel Capacity 1.06 Gallons .85 Gallons .70 Gallons 1.9 Gallons 1.9 Gallons 1.9 Gallons Frame Twin Spar Oval HSLA Double Cradle 4130 ChrMo Steel Double Cradle 4130 ChrMo Steel Arens design twin spar Arens design twin spar Arens design twin spar Wheelbase 1140mm 990 mm 908 mm 1067mm (track 915mm) 1067mm (track 915mm) 1067mm (track 915mm) Seat Height 762mm 680 mm 607 mm 762 mm 737 mm 762mm Ground Clearance 250mm 240 mm 216 mm 205 mm 205 mm 205mm Front Brakes Hydraulic Disk (205mm) Hydraulic Disk (160mm) Hydraulic Disk (160mm) Hydraulic Disk (160mm) Hydraulic Disk (160mm) Hydraulic Disk (160mm) Rear Brakes Hydraulic Disk (165mm) Hydraulic Disk (140mm) Adjustable Drum Hydraulic Disk (180mm) Hydraulic Disk (180mm) Hydraulic Disk (180mm) Front Suspension Marzocchi 35mm USD Adjustable 220mm travel Cobra 30mm USD 210mm travel Marzocchi 32mm 168mm travel Dual A-Arm with SVO™ patented steering design. 248mm travel Dual A-Arm with SVO™ patented steering design. 248mm travel Dual A-Arm with SVO™ patented steering design. 248mm travel Rear Suspension Öhlins Fully Adjustable 270mm travel Fox Piggyback Fully Adjustable 248mm travel Öhlins Piggyback 170mm travel Fox Piggyback 220mm travel Solid axle Fox Piggyback 220mm travel Lightweight tube axle Fox Piggyback 220mm travel Solid axle Wheel Front / Rear 14″ spoke / 12″ spoke (Al rims, Billet hubs, 9ga. spokes) Cobra 12″ Billet Cobra 10″ Billet Cobra 10″ Billet Cobra 10″ Billet ITP 10×5 (4 x1) Al Douglas 8×6.5 (4×2.5) Al ITP 10×5 (4 x1) Al Douglas 8×6.5 (4×2.5) Al ITP 10×5 (4 x1) Al Douglas 8×6.5 (4×2.5) Al Tires Front / Rear 60-100×14 Dunlop 80-100×12 Dunlop 2.5×12 / 2.75×10 2.5×10 / 2.75×10 ITP Holeshot 19/6 ITP 16/6.50-9 ITP Holeshot 19/6 ITP 16/6.50-9 ITP Holeshot 19/6 ITP 16/6.50-9

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME MASTER CYLINDER AND CLUTCH BRACKET KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-03-2011

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MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL See Figure 1. Master cylinders designed for dual disc (two caliper) operation have an 11/16 inch (17.5 mm) bore, while those that are designed for single disc (one caliper) operation have a 9/16 inch (14.3 mm) bore. The bore size is stamped (1) on the master cylinder assembly inboard of the handlebar clamp bracket. NOTE Do not use an 9/16 inch bore master cylinder assembly on dual disc (two caliper) models or dual disc 11/16 inch bore master cylinder assembly on single disc (one caliper) models. These master cylinder assemblies are not interchangeable. Using the wrong assembly can adversely affect braking efficiency or result in brake failure which could result in death or serious injury. D.O.T. 4 brake fluid will damage painted and body panel surfaces it comes in contact with. Always use caution and protect surfaces from spills whenever brake work is performed. Failure to comply can result in cosmetic damage. (00239b) 1 is 01230 1. Bore stamp size location Figure 1. Verify Correct Master Cylinder Bore Size 1. Open bleeder nipple caps on front brake caliper. Install end of a length of clear plastic tubing over caliper bleeder valves, while placing free end in a suitable container. Open bleeder valves about 1/2-turn. Pump brake hand lever to drain brake fluid. Close bleeder valve. Avoid leakage. Be sure gaskets, banjo bolt(s), brake line and master cylinder bore are clean and undamaged before assembly. (00322a) 2. Remove bolt and two steel/rubber washers to disconnect fitting of hydraulic brake line from master cylinder. Discard washers. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) 3. See Figure 2. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME FRONT BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-11-2010

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1. See Figure 2. Drain the brake fluid. a. Open bleeder nipple cap on front brake caliper. b. Install end of a length of clear plastic tubing over caliper bleeder valve, while placing free end in a suitable container. c. Open bleeder valve about 1/2-turn. d. Pump brake hand lever to drain brake fluid. e. Remove cover. f. Close bleeder valve. Remove brake line components carefully. Damage to seating surfaces can cause leakage. (00320a) 2. Remove bolt and 2 steel/rubber washers to disconnect fitting of hydraulic brake line from master cylinder. Discard washers. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) is 01010 Figure 3. 5/32 in. (4 mm) Cardboard Insert 3. See Figure 3. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. 4. Using T27 TORX® drive head, remove the 2 screws with flat washers securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the brake lever/master cylinder assembly and clamp from the handlebar. Wear safety glasses or goggles when removing or installing retaining rings. Retaining rings can slip from the pliers and could be propelled with enough force to cause serious eye injury. (00312a) 5. Remove retaining ring from pivot pin groove at bottom of master cylinder bracket. 6. Remove pivot pin and brake hand lever from master cylinder assembly. NOTE New master cylinder comes with all internal components preassembled. It is not necessary to remove the components from the bore of the old master cylinder. See Figure 9. Use denatured alcohol to clean clutch system components. Do not use mineral-based solvents (such as gasoline or paint thinner), which will deteriorate rubber parts even after assembly. Deterioration of these components can cause clutch failure, which could result in death or serious injury. (00296a) 7. With denatured alcohol, clean and inspect all parts that will be reused. Replace as necessary and wipe dry with a clean lint free cloth

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HARLEY DAVIDSON XLH 1200cc BIG BORE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 06-03-2011

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Boring and Honing Procedures 1. Check again for burrs on cylinder gasket surfaces and remove burrs before performing Step 2. 2. Install original head and base gaskets, CYLINDER TORQUE PLATES (Part Number 33446-A) and TORQUE BOLTS (Part Number 33446-4). Tighten TORQUE BOLTS following tightening procedure given in the INSTALLATION, CYLINDER HEAD procedure in the ENGINE section of the Service Manual. NOTE Torque plates, properly tightened and installed with gaskets, simulate engine operating conditions. Measurements will vary as much as 0.001 inch without torque plate. 3. The cylinder must be bored with gaskets and torque plates attached. Bore the cylinder to 0.003 inch under the desired finish size. 1 WARNING CAUTION CAUTION 1 WARNING Kit Number 4. Hone the cylinder to its finished size (See Figure 1) using a 280 grit rigid hone followed by a 240 grit flexible ball hone. Honing must be done with torque plates attached. All honing must be done from the bottom (crankcase) end of the cylinder. Work for a 60 degree crosshatch pattern. 5. See Figure 1. After machining and honing, chamfer the bottom edge of the cylinder liner. the chamfer provides a beveled surface for easier installation of the cylinder over the piston rings. Break leading edge of liner to a flat surface. The bottom edge of the liner will be somewhat sharp after machining. This sharp edge could easily be damaged during installation of the cylinder. Piston Installation The 1200cc pistons have an arrow on the top of the piston. This arrow must face the front of the engine when piston is installed. There is no front cylinder piston or rear cylinder piston. New pistons can be installed in either cylinder. Check piston rings for proper side clearance and end gap (See XLH Service Manual). Be sure end gaps of adjacent rings are installed 90 degrees apart. Assembly Follow assembly and torque specifications given in the ENGINE section of the applicable Service Manual. Replace original gaskets, O-rings and seals with new components furnished in kit. NOTE Push rod covers on 1991 and later models are one-piece and the correct O-rings are as follows: Bottom – Part Number 17944-89 Upper – Part Number 11190 Engine Break In For the first 500 miles, to wear-in critical parts, observe these few simple driving rules: During the first 50 miles, keep the engine speed below 2500 RPM in any gear. Up to 500 miles, vary the engine speed, avoiding any steady speed for long distances. Engine speed up to 3000 RPM is permissible in any gear. Avoid fast starts at wide open throttle. Drive slowly until engine warms up. Avoid running the engine at extremely low RPM in higher gears. 2 of 3 -J00001 1200cc CYLINDER FINAL BORE SIZE AFTER HONING STANDARD BORE DIAMETER 3.4980 inch + 0.0002 inch Figure 1. Bottom Edge of Cylinder Liner Chamfer i04852 Break Edge to Flat Surface

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TRIUMPH 750 BIG BORE CYLINDER AND PISTON SET FOR 650 TWINS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Step 1. Unpack your big bore kit and inspect the contents. There should be the following: 1. Cylinder x l 2. piston with wristpin x 2 3. Hepolite piston ring set x l 4. Special big bore head gasket Step 2. Thoroughly wash the cylinder bores with soap and water. Do not use solvent! Dry bores with air or a lint free towel and let completely air dry. This step is most important and will greatly extend the life of the pistons. Step 3. Following the procedure outlined in your service manual, drain the fuel tank, remove the exhaust system, fuel tank and carburetors. Have a catch basin handy to capture any fuel that may spill from the carburetors, as fuel is highly flammable and can be ignited by a dryer pilot light etc. from a long distance. Clean up any spilled fuel immediately and dispose of away from any source of ignition. Store the fuel tank in a well vented area, outdoors is best, in the event your fuel taps should leak. Step 4. Remove the rocker boxes by slacking the 9 head bolts a little at a time in a star pattern. Remove the 6 nuts at the front and back of the head. Remove the 4 corner rocker box bolts. Remove the head bolts and rocker boxes. Remove the push rods. Examine the push rods to insure they are straight and the ends are tight. Replace any suspect push rod. Step 5. Remove the cylinder head. Now would be a good time for guide and valve renewal. This is best left to an expert. More cylinder heads have been ruined by auto machine shops than by hard use. If you do not have a qualified shop in your area please call for a referral. Step 6. Remove the push rod tubes and the cylinder base nuts. Clip rubber bands around the top of the lifters to keep them from dropping into the crankcase. Have a few lint free rags handy. Bring the pistons to the top of the stroke and begin lifting off the cylinder. If the cylinder is hard to lift off, thread a nut on one of the base studs and use a tire lever to pry against the bottom fin close to its base using the stud as a fulcrum. After partially raising the cylinder stuff the crankcase mouth with rags to keep any carbon or broken rings from entering the crankcase. These will remain in place until step 12. Step 7. Leaving the rags in the crankcase remove the wrist pin circlips from the pistons and discard. Heat the piston and gently push the wrist pin out. Do not use force as this can damage the connecting rod or its bearings. Be sure to account for all the clips as one left in the crankcase can do extensive damage. Step 8. Clean all gasket surfaces to remove any traces of the old gaskets. Use Pennatex gasket remover if needed. Be very careful not to scratch the gasket surface or to allow any gasket particles to enter the crankcase. Even a small bit of gasket can stop the oil pump from working! Step 9. Note the direction and location of the lifters. These must be replaced in the same position as when removed. Remove the lifter blocks from the old cylinder. Start by removing the small retaining bolts and washers. The lifter blocks are extremely fragile and are easily broken. They are also very expensive so great care must be taken in this step! Triumph special tool 222-616008 is advisable here. Apply pressure to the center of the block only. Do not press against the tangs that locate the lifter! A tool can be fabricated using two dowels to locate in the lifter holes. Step 10. Clean and examine the lifters and camshaft faces. Clean the lifter blocks and remove the sealing oring under the locating flange. Replace these with the new orings in the gasket set. Apply a smear of gasket sealant to the lifter block oring and press into the new cylinder. Be sure the lifter block is parallel with the bores and the grooved block is on the exhaust side. Apply a small amount of assembly oil to the lifters and replace in the exact position they came from

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AIR / HYDRAULIC MOTORCYCLE LIFT REMOVABLE INSPECTION PLATE

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 19-11-2010

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For best service, you should incorporate an oiler, regulator, and inline filter, as shown in the diagram on the next page. Hoses, couplers, oilers, regulators, and filters are all available at Harbor Freight Tools. NOTE: If an automatic oiler is not used, put 3-5 drops of pneumatic Tool Oil (not included) in the Motorcycle Lift’s Quick Coupler (38A) before each use. (See Figure B, next page.) To Check The Level Of Hydraulic Oil: 1. The Motorcycle Lift already contains some hydraulic oil in its Hydraulic Pump Reservoir (32P). Even so, it is recommended that you check the oil level in the Reservoir and, if necessary, top off the Reservoir with the proper amount of 15/40 hydraulic oil (not included). (See Assy. Diagram, page 15.) 2. Make sure to screw the two Adjusting Screws clockwise enough to lift the two Caster Wheels (14) off the floor so as to provide stability for the Motorcycle Lift. (See Figure A.) 3. To check the level of hydraulic oil, remove the Sliding Plate (36) from the Platform (35) to expose the Hydraulic Pump Reservoir (32P). (See Assy. Diagrams, pages 13 and 15.) 4. Remove the rubber Filler Plug (33P) located on the top of the Reservoir (32P). If necessary, top off the Reservoir with hydraulic oil. (See Assy. Diagram, page 15.) 5. Connect the air compressor’s hose to the to the Air Motor assembly. Then turn on the air compressor and set its regulator at 120 PSI. (See Assy. Diagram, page 14.) 5. Insert the Lift Foot Pedal (11) onto the Pump Piston Spindle (9), and slowly pump the Lift Foot Pedal until a slight amount of hydraulic oil begins to leak out of the Reservoir (32P). Discontinue pumping the Lift Foot Pedal. Then, replace the Filler Plug (33P) on the top of the Reservoir. (See Assy. Diagram, page 15.) REGULATOR OILER FILTER TO QUICK COUPLER (38A) OF MOTORCYCLE LIFT FIGURE B 6. Insert the Release Foot Pedal (10) onto the Release Valve Spindle (5). Pump the Lift Foot Pedal (11) until the Platform (35) of the Motorcycle Lift reaches its maximum height. Then press down slightly on the Release Foot Pedal until the Platform is fully collapsed to the floor. Repeat this procedure several times to ensure the Motorcycle Lift is operating properly. (See Figure E, page 10.)

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S&S Super Stock Cylinder Head Kit Installation Instructions for 1984 And Later Evolution Big Twin and Sportster Engines

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-11-2010

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check Piston Alignment in Cylinder Bore The purpose of this procedure is to check for and correct possible piston misalignment in the cylinder bore. During normal manufacturing, engine components such as crankcases, cylinders, and connecting rods can be machined to dimensions within factory specifications but on the extreme ends of the tolerance range. Sometimes these components when combined together form an assembly that is borderline or actually “out of print”. The worst result is that the pistons can run cocked in the cylinder bores causing the connecting rods to thrust to the sides exerting unnecessary stress on the pistons, rings, rod bearings and other related parts. This procedure is not the same as “blue printing”, but it provides almost the same result. We feel that not enough emphasis is given to checking the piston alignment in the cylinder bore. NOTE – All engines should be checked upon disassembly. This applies to any engine receiving new pistons which includes those being completely overhauled. CAUTION – Pistons which do not run true in cylinder bores may cause excessive connecting rod side thrusting. This may lead to premature ring, piston, connecting rod and rod bearing wear and eventual failure of these parts. Visual Procedure A. Reinstall cylinders on old pistons without rings. Hold cylinders securely in place. B. Move piston tight toward camside of engine. C. Turn engine over in normal direction of travel 2 or 3 revolutions and observe piston during process. D. Move piston toward driveside of engine and repeat Step C. If misalignment exists, piston will appear closer to cylinder wall at one point around circumference. Condition can be corrected by bending rod in opposite direction. Figure 1 shows an exaggerated side view. E. Repeat Steps B to D for other cylinder. F. Remove pistons and cylinders. Observe pistons for wear spots on sides above top compression ring. If either side near wristpin is worn clean while side opposite is carboned up, then piston was not running straight and true in cylinder bore. Piston will also generally show diagonal wear pattern on thrust faces of skirts and possibly signs of connecting rod to wristpin boss contact inside piston.

Indian Rocker Arm End Play Rear Cylinder/ Front Cylinder Installation

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Filed Under (Indian) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Rear Cylinder 1Rotate the engine so that the rear piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC), compression stroke, so no load is on the valves. 2Using a 3/16″ allen wrench, remove the four screws securing the rear cylinder rocker cover. 3Remove the cover and inspect both O-ring seals. Discard if damaged or worn. 4Push both rocker arms towards the valve end support bracket (A) and using a feeler gauge check the gap between the rocker arms and the pushrod end support bracket (B). NOTE: The Rocker arm end play specification should be between 0.003″ to 0.012″. 5 Compare the measurement to the specification an determine whether adjustment is necessary. If the end play is within specification, adjustment will not be required. Refit the rocker cover (instructions 14 to 15) and carry out the same inspection on the front cylinder . If the measurement is outside the specification, adjustment will be required and shimming will be necessary (follow the remainder of these instructions). Adjustment 6Using a 1/4″ allen wrench remove the 4 screws securing the rocker shaft assembly.Refit the LH support bracket and reposition the complete assembly on the rocker base. Make sure that the three dowels are in place and the slots in the rocker shafts are properly aligned with the mounting screw holes in the RH support bracket. 11Clean the threads of the 4 support bracket screws and apply Blue Loctite to the first 4 threads. 12Fit the 1-3/4″ screws into the LH support bracket (A) and the 2″ screws to the RH bracket (B). Torque all screws in cross pattern to 16-20 foot-pounds. CAUTION: The rear piston must be at TDC, compression stroke, when tightening the support bracket screws. 13Re-check the rocker end play to ensure it is within specifica- tion. 13Lubricate the two O-rings with clean engine oil and refit them in the grooves in the rocker base. 14Refit the rocker cover.

Harley-Davidson Evolution Engines, Hydraulic Lifter Limited Travel Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-10-2010

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Remove tappet assemblies from engine being sure that each one is kept with it’soriginal tappet block. NOTE: This procedure is the preferred method of installation. However, kit can be installed without removing lifters from engine. 2. Remove hydraulic piston retaining wire clip from one assembly at a time. Be careful not to bend wire clip during disassembly. 3. Completely disassemble tappet removing all parts. 4. Thoroughly clean all parts including tappet body. Remove any oil which might prevent hydraulic unit from fully collapsing during adjustment. 5. Insert one spacer from S&S HL 2 Tkit in tappet body. 6. Reassemble tappet in reverse order making sure original parts arereturned to their original positions. See Picture1. 7. Replace wire retaining clip in tappet body. 8. Put tappet back in original tappet block. 9. Repeat Steps 2 through 8 for three remaining tappets. 10. Reassemble engine with modified tappets. 11. Adjust pushrods. NOTE – In all cases engine must be cold and lifter must be at lowest point of travel for pushrod adjustment To prevent accidents, remove ground cable from battery. A. Remove spark plugs. B. Bring piston to TDC on compression stroke in cylinder to be adjusted. Normally both tappets will be at their lowest point of travel. C. Extend pushrod adjustment, collapsing lifter until piston assembly is in contact with HL 2 Tspacer and pushrod is tight. If tappets contain oil, as when pushrods are readjusted after engine has been run, or if all oil was not removed during installation, extend pushrod adjustment until valve is open (about five additional turns of adjusting screw). Allow 5 minutes for hydraulic unit to bleed down. If pushrod can be turned with fingers after bleeding down, lifter is not completely collapsed, and this step must be repeated. NOTE – perform this operation on one cylinder at a time. Do not turn engine until pushrod adjustment is complete. Turning engine while valve is held off the seat could result in valve to valve or valve to piston contact and serious valve train damage. D. Loosen pushrod adjustment until pushrod can be rotated with the fingers with slight drag. NOTE – Shortening adjuster an additional six flats or full turn from zero lash often results in quieter pushrod operation. This provides additional travel for the hydraulic piston assembly, which can improve the ability of the hydraulic unit to maintain zerolash under normal operating conditions. E. Tighten lock nut. F. Follow the same procedure for all four push rods. G. Recheck pushrod adjustment after a few hundred miles. NOTES ● It is a good idea to recheck pushrod adjustment in a new engine as valve train may tighten up due to gasket compression and valve seat wear. ● Upon initial start up after modification, HL 2 Tequipped lifters may be somewhat noisy for 10-20 miles. If lifters are still noisy after 20 miles it is recommended that pushrods be adjusted 1⁄2 turnlooser. See step D

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