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Ural carburetors Installation and idle adjustment

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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Adjusting the Pekar K68 for Dnepr or Ural

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 11-11-2010

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1. Make sure the ignition timing is correct 2. Adjust the valves as necessary to ensure proper operation 3. Run the engine to warm it up a bit 4. Adjust the float setting. To do this, remove the carburetors (leave the throttle cables attached), remove the bowl and turn the carburetor upside down (fuel will spill). The float should look like this: Adjust as necessary by bending the float support (#37 in Figure 1). Reinstall Installation and idle adjustment 1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns. * Starting using the K68′s (cold weather) 1. Verify fuel flow. Apply choke (pull 52 in Fig1). 2. Using the ticklers (13) allow fuel to enter the bowl until fuel drains from (14) 3. With the ignition off, kick 1 or 2 times 4. Turn ignition on, and as soon as engine is warmed up (maybe sooner) push choke mechanisms to open choke Idle Adjustment (engine running and warm) 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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KAWASAKI TERYX EFI Installation Instructions.

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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Basic Tuning Adjustments 1. The following instructions are for basic fuel tuning. Modes 1,2, & 3 are allowing adjustments to increase and decrease the amount of fuel the engine needs. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning only. DO NOT change modes 4 & 5 when doing basic tuning! 2. To help understand how these modes work, you can think of them as if you were working with a carburetor. 3. Remember each time you push the MODE button you will be advancing to the next mode. Push the MODE button once and you are now in mode 1, push the MODE button again and you are now in mode 2 and so on. You only need to be concerned with modes 1, 2 & 3 for basic tuning. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning ONLY. 4. If you need to go back to the settings that were pre programmed when you purchased the controller, just look at the picture in each mode, the colored square represents where the settings were when you purchased the controller. 5. Looking at the controller you will see eight lights with numbers under them, this is what you need to look at when changing settings. The #1 light on the controller represents the leanest setting. TRINITY RACING DOES NOT TAKE REPONSIBLITY FOR DAMAGES THAT MAY OCCUR DURING OPERATION OF YOUR VEHICLE UNDER IMPROPER JET SETTINGS. IT IS THE FINAL RESPONSIBLITY OF THE OWNER/RIDER TO ADJUST JETTING TO SPECIFIC RIDING CONDITIONS AND ELEVATION BEFORE RIDING. WARNING! 1.877.FAS TOYS 2.Remove both seats 6. Re-install engine cover and seats. 6. Mode 1 green light represents idle & cruise adjustment (i.e. pilot jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button once and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 7. Mode 2 yellow light represents an additional amount of fuel added during acceleration (i.e. needle position). To adjust this setting, push MODE twice and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 12 34 56 7 8 12 34 56 7 8 8. Mode 3 red light represents more fuel being added during full throttle (i.e. main jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button three times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 9. If you are confident about your tuning skills and feel you need to adjust other parameters, see Advanced Tuning. 12 34 56 7 8 Advanced Tuning Adjustments 1. Advance tuning has two modes in which to adjust. They are called mode 4 and mode 5. In basic tuning, you are changing the amount of fuel that the engine receives, but with advance tuning, you will be changing when the fuel will be available. In each mode you can adjust how soon the fuel delivery occurs. 2. Mode 4 yellow light and blue light represent when the fuel delivery is available during partial throttle acceleration. To adjust this setting, push the MODE button four times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. Only the yellow light will be changing.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON ENRICHENER KNOB COVER INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-02-2011

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Additional Parts Required Loctite® 222 (purple) Installation NOTE If there are any rough edges around enrichener knob that prevent enrichener knob cover from sliding in place, remove them using fine grit sandpaper or emery cloth. 1. See Figure 1. Install collet (4) to the enrichener knob (A), the enrichener knob cover (2) and gasket (3) as shown. Apply Loctite 222 (purple) to threads of screw (1). Line up hole in collet with hole in enrichener cover and insert screw. Tighten screw. 1 2 3 A 4 is03857 1. Screw 2. Enrichener Knob Cover 3. Gasket 4. Collet Figure 1. Enrichener Knob Cover Installation

HARLEY DAVIDSON MULTI-FIT BRAIDED THROTTLE/ IDLE CABLE KITS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-02-2011

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REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) cable first or remove the main fuse following the instructions in the service manual. NOTE When performing cable disassembly procedures, make careful notes as to the existing cable routing. Pay special attention to existing cable strap locations before removing so new straps can be placed into the same locations. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) 2. See Figure 1. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. 3. See Figure 2. Loosen cable adjuster jam nuts. Turn cable adjusters in until they are as short as possible. This will provide enough slack for easy removal. 4. Remove the right upper and lower switch housing screws INSTALLATION Throttle and Idle Cable Installation 1. See Figure 3. Apply graphite lightly to the throttle grip inside the switch housing and on the throttle end of the handlebar. NOTE The throttle control cable has a larger diameter retaining ring crimped to the cable end than does the idle control cable. For assembly, apply a drop of light oil on the retaining rings of the crimped inserts. 2. See Figure 7. Push the throttle cable housing and retaining ring into the larger hole of the switch housing, located in front of the tension adjuster screw. 3. Push the idle cable housing and retaining ring into the smaller hole of the switch housing, located behind the tension adjuster screw. 4. Push the throttle and idle control cable housings into the lower switch housing until each snaps into place. NOTE For models not equipped with factory-installed cruise control, if the friction shoe has fallen out or become dislodged, install the shoe with the concave side facing up and position it so the pin hole is over the point of the adjuster screw. 5. Push the throttle control grip over the end of the right handlebar until it bottoms against the closed end. Rotate the grip until the ferrule notches are at the top. To prevent binding, pull the grip back about 0.12 inch (3.2 mm). 6. See Figure 3. Position the lower switch housing beneath the throttle control grip. Install two brass ferrules (Item 3, Figure 11) from this kit onto cables, seating the ferrules in their respective notches on the throttle control grip. The cables must be captured in the grooves molded into the grip. 7. Position the upper switch housing over the handlebar and lower switch housing. Route the wire harness conduit through the depression at the bottom of the handlebar. 8. Tighten the upper and lower switch housing screws finger- tight. 9. Position the brake lever/master cylinder assembly inboard of the switch housing assembly, engaging the tab on the lower switch housing in the groove at the top of the brake lever bracket. 10. Align the holes in the handlebar clamp with those in the master cylinder housing and tighten the lower screw and flat washer finger-tight. Position for rider comfort. Beginning with the top screw, tighten the screws to 60-80 in-lbs (6.8-9.0 Nm)

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HARLEY DAVIDSON MULTI-FIT BRAIDED THROTTLE/IDLE CABLE KITS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 20-03-2011

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REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 1. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) cable first or remove the main fuse following the instructions in the service manual. NOTE When performing cable disassembly procedures, make careful notes as to the existing cable routing. Pay special attention to existing cable strap locations before removing so new straps can be installed in the same locations. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) 2. See Figure 1. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. 3 2 1 is00825 1. Brake lever 2.5/32 inch (4 mm) cardboard insert 3. Brake lever bracket Figure 1. Install Cardboard Insert 3. See Figure 2. Loosen cable adjuster jam nuts. Turn cable adjusters in until they are as short as possible. This will provide enough slack for easy removal. 3 4 1 2 5 is 02071 1. Upper switch housing 2. Lower switch housing 3. Throttle cable adjuster 4. Idle cable adjuster 5. Adjuster jam nut Figure 2. Handlebar Throttle Control 4. Remove the right upper and lower switch housing screws. 5. Loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the lower clamp screw and flat washer. NOTE If possible, leave the friction shoe in place. The friction shoe is a loose-fit and may fall out or become dislodged if the lower switch housing is turned upside down or shaken. 6. See Figure 3. Remove the brass ferrules from the notches on the inboard side of the throttle control grip. Remove the ferrules from the cable end fittings. 1 2 4 3 is 02072 1. Throttle cable 2. Idle cable 3. Brass ferrule 4. Notch Figure 3. Throttle/Idle Control Cables 7. Pull the crimped inserts at the end of the throttle and idle control cable housings from the lower switch housing. For best results, use a rocking motion while pulling. Remove cables with retaining rings from switch housing. Apply a drop of light oil on the retaining ring, if necessary, to help in removal. NOTE If installing different handlebars, measure the change in distance that will be required from the end of the cable housing to the throttle grip. Compare this additional required length to the cables provided in the kit. If the cables are more than 2.0 inches (51 mm) longer or more than 1.0 inch (25 mm) shorter than the above measured distance, see a Harley-Davidson dealer for the correct cable length. Install proper length throttle cables. Incorrect cable length can adversely affect motorcycle operation, which could cause loss of control resulting in death or serious injury. (00396b) 8. Follow instructions in the applicable service manual and remove air cleaner and backplate.

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Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool Instruction Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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System Function Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool (FI Tool) is developed to modify the mapping of the racing machine to gain operating conditions suitable for the course and the rider’s skill. The following are the available setting functions. Table 1 FI Tool Function Model Name Functions Available Setting Range ’04 ZX-10R ’05 ZX-6RR ’05 ZX-10R ’06 ZX-10R ’07 ZX-6R 1) Adjust the injected fuel rate at acceleration -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 2) Adjust the injected fuel rate of No.1 and No.4 cylinder -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 3) Adjust the injected fuel rate of No.2 and No.3 cylinder -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 4) Adjust the injected fuel rate of primary and secondary injector * -30 % ~ +30 % -10 % ~ +10 % — – — 〇 — – — – — 〇 5) Adjust the ignition timing -15°CA~ +5°CA 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 6) Adjust the sub-throttle opening angle -50 % ~ +50 % -45 % ~ +45 % 〇 — – 〇 〇 — 〇 — – 〇 7) Adjust the exhaust device opening angle -50 % ~ +50 % 〇 — 〇 〇 — 8) Adjust the all injected fuel rates of all cylinders and operating are a simultaneously -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 9) Adjust the value of engine over revolution limiter 0 ~ +300 rpm -1000 ~ +700rpm -1000 ~+1200rpm — – — 〇 — – — 〇 — – — 〇 〇 — – 10) Set the fuel cut or not at deceleration Use or Not Use 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 11) Set the sub throttle controlled or not Controlled or Full Open Fixed 〇 — – — – 12) Set the exhaust device controlled or not Controlled or Full Open Fixed 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 13) Set the Auto Shifter Ignition Cut Length Controlled or not, set Ig. Cut Time by gear range — – 〇 〇 〇 14) Set the Pit Road RPM Limit Controlled or not, set Upper Limit RPM by gear range

KTM 250/ 300/ 380 SX,MXC,EXC ENGINE REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Repair manual KTM 250 / 300 / 380 Art No 3206004 -E 2-2C main jet jet needle jet needle air control screw idle adjusting screw idle jet throttle valve Idling range A Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the position of the air control screw 1 and the idle adjusting screw 2 . Only make adjustments when the engine is hot. To this end, slightly increase the idling speed of the engine by means of the idle adjusting screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turning the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Create a round and stable engine speed using the air control screw (basic position of the air control screw = open by 1.5 turns). Then adjust to the normal idling speed by means of the idle adjusting screw. Opening up B Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and part-throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully opened and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high engine speeds, the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level too high or the float needle is leaking. Part-throttle range C Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the jet needle (shape and position). The optimum part-throttle setting is controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the upper range. If the engine runs on a four-stroke cycle or with reduced power when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be lowered by one notch. If then the engine pings, especially when accelerating under full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised. If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the engine pings, adjust the idling range richer. Full throttle range D Operation with the throttle fully open (flat out). This range is influenced by the main jet and the jet needle. If the porcelain of the new spark plug is found to have a very bright or white coating or if the engine rings, after a short distance of riding flat out, a larger main jet is required. If the porcelain is dark brown or black with soot the main jet must be replaced by a smaller one. mixture too rich: too much fuel in proportion to air mixture too lean: not enough fuel in proportion to air 1 2 OPERATING RANGES OF THE CARBURETOR 2-3C Carburetor adjustment Basic information on the original carburetor setting The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient temperature of approx. 20°C (68°F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95 MOZ). Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil : super fuel 1:40 – 1:60. Basic information on a change of the carburetor setting Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance. RULE OF THUMB:

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S&S Super E and G Series "Shorty" Carburetors REMOVAL, Installation and Jetting Instructions

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Filed Under (S&S) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Remove Old Carburetor WARNINGS ● Gasoline is extremely flammable and explosive under certain conditions. Do not smoke around gasoline. Gasoline fumes are toxic when inhaled. Perform installation in a well ventilated area away from open flames or sparks. Any gasoline leak or spill constitutes a health and fire hazard. ● If motorcycle has been running, wait until engine and exhaust have cooled to avoid getting burned during installation. ● Electrical sparks can ignite explosive gasoline fumes. Failure to disconnect battery while working on motorcycle can also result in inadvertent engagement of starter and personal injury. A. Shut off fuel petcock and disconnect battery. B. Remove air cleaner assembly. Drain fuel from existing carburetor. Remove carburetor, manifold, choke cable and any carburetor mounting hardware NOTE – Removing and tightening hard to reach Allen bolts such as carb-manifold mounting bolts and V2 manifold flange bolts can be greatly simplified by the use of Allen ball-end drivers. These tools are available at most automotive and tool supply houses. See Picture 9. Additionally, Performance Plus of Evansville, Indiana, produces a hex wrench specially modified for accessibility of V 2 manifold bolts. Call 812-963-8854 for further information. As alternative, standard hex wrench can be shortened for convenience. NOTE – Some Buell motorcycles have a breather fitting with 90° elbow on rear head. Due to proximity of frame, elbow must be removed before fitting can be taken off engine. Loosen fitting and rotate to position convenient for cutting elbow. Secure fitting by tightening against cylinder head. Elbow may be inaccessible to hacksaw. In most instances, a die grinder with cutoff wheel will remove elbow with little difficulty. If die grinder is unavailable, grasp elbow firmly with pliers and snap off, then remove fitting. CAUTION – Extreme care must be taken to prevent metal chips from entering engine when elbow is removed. S&S recommends packing breather fitting with gease before removing elbow. Metal chips inside engine will cause extensive damage. Installer bears all responsibility for containment of chips and other debris. Picture 2 Picture 4 Picture 3
5 2. Prepare Air Cleaner Backplate NOTE – Fast idle lever screws, part #11-2384, must not be overtightened. Loctite or other thread locking compound may be used sparingly on threads to prevent screws from vibrating loose. CAUTION – Overtightening fast idle screws may damage backplate. A. All engines except V2s 1. Knuckles & Pans, 1936 to 1965 – Press plugs, part #50-8312, into holes in air cleaner backplate. See Picture 2 . 2. Shovels, 1966 to 1979, and Ironhead (IH) XLs, 1957 to 1979 – Press plug, part #50-8312, into hole in air cleaner backplate. See Picture 3 . 3. Shovels 1980 to 1984 and IH XLs 1980 to 1985 – Screw crankcase breather vent elbow fitting, part #50-8110, into hole in air cleaner backplate and angle downward as shown in Picture 4 . On 1983 and 1984 Shovels press plug, part #50-8312, into other hole on left. 4. Assemble fast idle mechanism as shown in Figure A . B. FL V2s 1984 to 1992 1. Press plug, part #50-8312, into hole on left in air cleaner backplate as shown in Picture 5 . 2. Screw vent hose elbow fitting, part #50-8110, into remaining hole at right. See Picture 5 . 3. Assemble fast idle mechanism as shown in Figure A . C. XL V2s 1986 to 1990 1. Press plug, part #50-8312, into hole on right in air cleaner backplate as shown in Picture 6 . 2. Screw vent hose nipple fitting, part #50-8111, into remaining hole at left. See Picture 6 . Elbow fitting, part #50-8110, supplied in kit may also be used in this location if required. 3. Assemble fast idle mechanism as shown in Figure A . D. FL V2s 1993 and up and XL V2s 1991 and up 1. Press plugs, part #50-8312, into both holes in air cleaner backplate as shown in Picture 7 . 2. Assemble fast idle mechanism as shown in Figure A . E. Buell motorcycles, 1994 and up 1. Assemble fast idle mechanism as shown in Figure A. 3. Throttle Preparation NOTE – Throttle grip assembly must be assembled correctly and work freely to prevent possible sticking during operation. Throttle must snap closed when released. Cable routing must be free of tight bends to minimize friction between cable and housing

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POLINI X1 GENERAL INFORMATION AND SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Polini) by admin on 02-12-2010

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Air cleaner – Clean and reoil daily or after each moto to prevent motor failure and reduced performance. Transmission oil – change after every race, or at end of riding day. Chain – check tension and lubricate before every ride, adjust or replace as needed. Reoil after riding in damp conditions. Clutch – disassemble and clean clutch assembly frequently, every 2-3 races at least. Inspect kickstarter gears at this time. Ignition cover – remove cover and wipe dry after each ride or after washing bike to remove condensation. Piston rings – replace as often as every 3-5 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Piston, pin, rod bearing & circlips – replace as often as every 8-10 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Coolant – change yearly, make sure there is at least a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze if freezing temperatures are possible. Steering bearings – Check daily for looseness or play. Adjust and regrease as needed. Swingarm – Check often for looseness. Regrease several times a year. Replace bushings if any play is evident. Sprockets – check for worn or curved teeth each time chain is adjusted. Chain roller& wear pads – check roller for free rotation when checking chain. Make sure roller is not bent or damaged. Check chain wear strips on swingarm and chain guide frequently. Replace as needed to prevent chain from damaging motorcycle. Spokes – Check after each race or after each day of riding for looseness or damage. Wheels & tires – check wheels after each race for dents, cracks or other damage. Check tires for cuts, damage or wear. Check tire pressure daily and adjust for riding conditions. Shock – Check shaft area daily for signs of oil leakage or damage. Check swingarm and shock bushings for looseness. Forks – Check forks daily for leaking oil or damage to tubes. Make sure forks are not twisted check for smooth operation. Spark plug – check sparkplug color and condition after each race or end of riding day. Adjust jetting to keep plug from fouling or overheating. Silencer – If bike seems to be getting louder, replace packing and decarbonize inner tube. Expansion pipe – check daily for large dents, damage or leakage. Remove carbon from headpipe when pipe is removed. Have large dents fixed, or any dents within 8″ of the cylinder. Replace o-rings on pipe as needed to maintain a good seal. Footpegs – check daily for proper operation, pegs should spring back into place. Make sure pegs are not bent or overly dull. Handlebars – check bars after any crash for bending. Look for cracks near bar clamps. Replace bars that have been straightened more than 2 or three times, or if bar is badly bent. Aweakened bar can snap suddenly causing injury to rider. Throttle – check throttle for proper operation each time before bike is started. Remove and clean inside of grip and bar as needed. Grips – check grips daily for wear or looseness. Replace as needed. Use grip glue & safety wire to help hold grips in position. Calipers & pads – check pad wear and caliper function daily or after each race. Replace pads and clean calipers as needed. Brake lever – check lever daily for damage or wear. Make sure lever is at proper angle for both seated and standing positions. Leave lever clamp loose enough to allow clamp to rotate during crash rather than breaking lever. Check and adjust freeplay as needed. Brake pedal – Check pedal daily for damage and proper freeplay. Adjust rear caliper as needed. Reeds – Remove and inspect reed block during every ring change. Check reeds for signs of wear, fraying and cracking. Make sure reeds sit flat and seal well. Replace at any sign of wear or damage or at least once a year, more often for expert riders. Nuts & bolts – Check all nuts and bolts regularly. Make sure to check engine mounting bolts and swingarm bolt frequently

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