idle adjust on kawasaki ninja 250r

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Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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Ural carburetors Installation and idle adjustment

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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Adjusting the Pekar K68 for Dnepr or Ural

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 11-11-2010

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1. Make sure the ignition timing is correct 2. Adjust the valves as necessary to ensure proper operation 3. Run the engine to warm it up a bit 4. Adjust the float setting. To do this, remove the carburetors (leave the throttle cables attached), remove the bowl and turn the carburetor upside down (fuel will spill). The float should look like this: Adjust as necessary by bending the float support (#37 in Figure 1). Reinstall Installation and idle adjustment 1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns. * Starting using the K68′s (cold weather) 1. Verify fuel flow. Apply choke (pull 52 in Fig1). 2. Using the ticklers (13) allow fuel to enter the bowl until fuel drains from (14) 3. With the ignition off, kick 1 or 2 times 4. Turn ignition on, and as soon as engine is warmed up (maybe sooner) push choke mechanisms to open choke Idle Adjustment (engine running and warm) 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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KAWASAKI TERYX EFI Installation Instructions.

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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Basic Tuning Adjustments 1. The following instructions are for basic fuel tuning. Modes 1,2, & 3 are allowing adjustments to increase and decrease the amount of fuel the engine needs. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning only. DO NOT change modes 4 & 5 when doing basic tuning! 2. To help understand how these modes work, you can think of them as if you were working with a carburetor. 3. Remember each time you push the MODE button you will be advancing to the next mode. Push the MODE button once and you are now in mode 1, push the MODE button again and you are now in mode 2 and so on. You only need to be concerned with modes 1, 2 & 3 for basic tuning. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning ONLY. 4. If you need to go back to the settings that were pre programmed when you purchased the controller, just look at the picture in each mode, the colored square represents where the settings were when you purchased the controller. 5. Looking at the controller you will see eight lights with numbers under them, this is what you need to look at when changing settings. The #1 light on the controller represents the leanest setting. TRINITY RACING DOES NOT TAKE REPONSIBLITY FOR DAMAGES THAT MAY OCCUR DURING OPERATION OF YOUR VEHICLE UNDER IMPROPER JET SETTINGS. IT IS THE FINAL RESPONSIBLITY OF THE OWNER/RIDER TO ADJUST JETTING TO SPECIFIC RIDING CONDITIONS AND ELEVATION BEFORE RIDING. WARNING! 1.877.FAS TOYS 2.Remove both seats 6. Re-install engine cover and seats. 6. Mode 1 green light represents idle & cruise adjustment (i.e. pilot jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button once and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 7. Mode 2 yellow light represents an additional amount of fuel added during acceleration (i.e. needle position). To adjust this setting, push MODE twice and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 12 34 56 7 8 12 34 56 7 8 8. Mode 3 red light represents more fuel being added during full throttle (i.e. main jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button three times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 9. If you are confident about your tuning skills and feel you need to adjust other parameters, see Advanced Tuning. 12 34 56 7 8 Advanced Tuning Adjustments 1. Advance tuning has two modes in which to adjust. They are called mode 4 and mode 5. In basic tuning, you are changing the amount of fuel that the engine receives, but with advance tuning, you will be changing when the fuel will be available. In each mode you can adjust how soon the fuel delivery occurs. 2. Mode 4 yellow light and blue light represent when the fuel delivery is available during partial throttle acceleration. To adjust this setting, push the MODE button four times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. Only the yellow light will be changing.

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2009 NINJA 250R STREET Specifications

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-11-2010

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Your new Kawasaki motorcycle comes with a 12-month/unlimited mileage limited factory warranty. Read the next paragraph to find out how you can extend your coverage inexpensively, or ask your dealer for details about the factory warranty and available extended coverage. Up to Three Years Additional Coverage* Let Kawasaki protect your new machine for years to come* with the exclusive Good Times™ Protection Plan. This plan repairs or replaces most components free of charge if found defective in material or workmanship. Everything about the plan is easy: There’s no deductible. It’s honored at every authorized Kawasaki motorcycle dealer nationwide. It’s transferable to another owner with no fee. Just ask your dealer how you can buy additional coverage of 24 or 36 months depending on the model. Imagine, for just pennies a day, you can ride with no worry and no hassle. Just tell your dealer you want the Good Times Protection Plan. * Depending on the program purchased. Specifications subject to change without notice. Availability may be limited. Always wear a helmet and appropriate apparel. sAfe riDi Ng’s more fuN ride responsibly. kawasaki believes safety begins with us and continues with you. always wear a helmet, eye protection, and proper apparel. Passengers, too. ride defensively. if riding off-highway, use authorized areas only. obey the Basic speed law. Never ride under the influence of drugs or alcohol. riding is more fun on a well-maintained motorcycle… follow the instructions in your owner’s manual. remember, riding safe is smart. Action Photography: Professional riders on a closed course. ® p/N 99969-2307e printed in Canada To view our complete accessory catalogue, find your nearest dealer or take an in-depth tour of this machine visit: Specifications Ninja® 250R Engine type 4-stroke, liquid-cooled, DOHC, parallel twin Displacement 249cc Bore x stroke 62.0 x 41.2mm Compression ratio 11.6:1 Maximum torque 22 N-m @ 9,500 rpm (16.2 lb-ft @ 9,500 rpm) Fuel system Two Keihin CVK30 carburetors Cooling system Liquid Ignition Digital Starting Electric Transmission 6-speed Final drive Chain Frame type Semi-double cradle, high-tensile steel Rake/trail 26˚/83 m (3.2 inches) Suspension / front wheel travel 37mm hydraulic telescopic fork / 120 mm (4.7 in.) Suspension / rear wheel travel Bottom-Link UNI-TRAK® with 5-way adjustable preload / 130 mm (5.1 in.) Tire, front/rear 110/70-17; 130/70-17 Brakes, front Single 290mm hydraulic disc with two-piston caliper Brakes, rear Single 220mm petal disc with two-piston caliper Wheelbase 1400 mm (55.1 inches) Seat height 775 mm (30.5 inches) Length, width, height 2085 x 715 x 1110 mm (82.1 in / 28.1 in / 43.7 in) Fuel capacity 18 litres (4 gallons) Curb weight 170 kg (374.9 pounds) Colours Special Edition Lime Green or Candy Thunder Blue or Metallic Diablo Black or Sunbeam Red

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Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool Instruction Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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System Function Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool (FI Tool) is developed to modify the mapping of the racing machine to gain operating conditions suitable for the course and the rider’s skill. The following are the available setting functions. Table 1 FI Tool Function Model Name Functions Available Setting Range ’04 ZX-10R ’05 ZX-6RR ’05 ZX-10R ’06 ZX-10R ’07 ZX-6R 1) Adjust the injected fuel rate at acceleration -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 2) Adjust the injected fuel rate of No.1 and No.4 cylinder -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 3) Adjust the injected fuel rate of No.2 and No.3 cylinder -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 4) Adjust the injected fuel rate of primary and secondary injector * -30 % ~ +30 % -10 % ~ +10 % — – — 〇 — – — – — 〇 5) Adjust the ignition timing -15°CA~ +5°CA 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 6) Adjust the sub-throttle opening angle -50 % ~ +50 % -45 % ~ +45 % 〇 — – 〇 〇 — 〇 — – 〇 7) Adjust the exhaust device opening angle -50 % ~ +50 % 〇 — 〇 〇 — 8) Adjust the all injected fuel rates of all cylinders and operating are a simultaneously -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 9) Adjust the value of engine over revolution limiter 0 ~ +300 rpm -1000 ~ +700rpm -1000 ~+1200rpm — – — 〇 — – — 〇 — – — 〇 〇 — – 10) Set the fuel cut or not at deceleration Use or Not Use 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 11) Set the sub throttle controlled or not Controlled or Full Open Fixed 〇 — – — – 12) Set the exhaust device controlled or not Controlled or Full Open Fixed 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 13) Set the Auto Shifter Ignition Cut Length Controlled or not, set Ig. Cut Time by gear range — – 〇 〇 〇 14) Set the Pit Road RPM Limit Controlled or not, set Upper Limit RPM by gear range

Kawasaki Exhausts – ZX-6 ZX-10 Zx-14 Exhaust – Slip-ons INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo

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Kawasaki Ninja 250 FAQ

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 15-11-2010

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Am I too small for this motorcycle? Duke – Sun May 14 17:38:31 2000 I’m only about 5’2″ and don’t have a problem, even though I can only touch the ground with the ends of my toes. Once you get a feel for the balance of the bike it’s not hard to keep everything upright. Only place I have trouble is pushing the bike backwards in a parking lot. Usually I just walk the bike (beside it) to where I can get on and get going. How does the EX500 compare to the EX250? Craig M. – Mon May 22 10:23:29 2000 I have both the EX250 and the EX500; both are Y2K models. The 250 is a screamer that performs well and can easily get me into trouble. My only complaints about the 250 are the excessive nose dive when getting on the front brake hard and the skittishness of the rear during high speed cornering. Both are easily corrected with suspension adjustments, I’ve just been too lazy to get the parts and do the work. A bit more wind protection would be great too. The 500 addresses these problems, the diving of the front end (to a degree); the rear’s skittishness and the wind protection. A plus for the 500 is the greater torque and power off the line; it pulls stronger (in my opinion) and will get you into illegal speed territory just a bit quicker than the 250. With greater weight, is has more stability in high speed and windy situations. Insurance is just about the same for both, with the 250 getting the nod for gas mileage. Service requirements are almost identical for both as well, being that they’re both parallel twins, the technology is the virtually the same. The downfalls of the 500: $2K more than the 250 (can do a lot to the 250 with that kind of money); buzzy mirrors, barely useful; heavier weight to have to push around the garage; lesser gas mileage (55-60 MPG; 250 pushes 70 MPG easily); engine is worse than a nervous dog shaking around at idle and at speed (here the 250 is far superior and much smoother). In my opinion, the 500 is a better suited for a larger rider, from a comfort standpoint. I feel I can stretch out a bit more on it than the 250 (I’m 5′ 9″, 160 lbs). The 250′s brakes are better tuned than the 500 and the shifter is much smoother. That may be due to the 3,500 mile difference between the two bikes. Bottom line, both bikes are great, the 250 is now my wife’s ride (mainly) and the 500′s mine (unless she steals the keys away). In time, I’ll make the adjustments to the 250; she doesn’t push it like I do.

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Kawasaki 2000- ZX-12R Ninja exhaust system Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove the lower fairing. Remove the lower radiator mounting bolts, loosen the upper bolts and pivot the radiator forward to provide access to the exhaust nuts (flange nuts). Remove the oil cooler mounting bolts and pivot the oil cooler forward to provide access. 2. Remove the existing exhaust system and save the flange nuts for reuse. Save the stock exhaust can mounting bolt and nut for reuse as well. 3. Inspect the exhaust gaskets. Replace if necessary. 4. Assemble the head pipes 1, 2, 3, and 4 by matching the joints of the same color to the pair of front Y-pipes. Do not install the exhaust springs at this time. 5. Place a billet aluminum Mouthpiece ring Z on each TiForce head pipe. (see figure 3 for details) . 6. Attach the assembled head pipe sections to the exhaust ports, but do not tighten the flange nuts fully, allowing for some adjustment in the remaining steps. Reuse the flange nuts saved from step 2 above. Make sure the ends of the head pipes fit flush and snug in the ports and Mouthpiece ring Z before tightening. 7. Install the S-Bend to the front section of the head pipes and two Y-pipes. 8. Go back and retighten the head pipe flange nuts per factory specifications – make sure the head pipes and Mouthpiece ring Z are centered in each port. 9. Slide the TiForce end can into place. 10. Loosely attach the two rubber bands, stainless steel bands K, and stay / hanger G to the end can using the supplied 6mm hardware H. (See figure 1) . 11. Place the bands approximately 118 mm from the edge of the end can. (See figure 2) . 12. Using the stock provided mounting point on the passenger foot peg, and using the stock-mounting bolt, mount the end can loosely, allowing for some adjustment. Insert the stock mounting bolt through the stay / hanger G. 13. Attach the supplied springs to all the joints, starting from the head pipes and working back to the end can. 14. Make sure the exhaust system is free and clear, if necessary jiggle the system to adjust for proper clearance

Kawasaki ZX-9R Ninja Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-11-2010

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1. Remove the lower fairing. Remove thelower radiator mounting bolts, loosen the upper bolts and pivot the radiator forward to provide access to the exhaust nuts (flange nuts). Remove the oil cooler mounting bolts and pivot the oil cooler forward to provide access. 2. Remove the existing exhaust system and save the flange nuts for reuse. Save the stock exhaust can mounting bolt and nut for reuse as well. 3. Inspect the exhaust gaskets. Replace if necessary. 4. Assemble the head pipes 1 (blue), 2 (red), 3 (yellow), and 4 (green) by matching the joints of the same color to the pair of front Y-pipes. Do not install the exhaust springs at this time. 5. 2000 through 2002 models ONLY!!! Place a billet aluminum exhaust port centering flange Z on each TiForce headpipe -see figure 3 for details. 6. Attachthe assembled head pipe sections to the exhaust ports, but do not tighten the flange nuts fully, allowing for some adjustment in the remaining steps. Reuse the flange nuts saved from step 2 above. Make sure the ends of the headpipes fit flush and snug in the ports and centering flanges Z before tightening (’00-’02 ONLY). 7. Install the S-Bend to the front section of the headpipes and two Y-pipes. 8. Go back and retighten the head pipe flange nuts per factory specifications -make sure the headpipes and flanges Z are centered in each port (’00-’02 ONLY!!! ) . 9. Slide the TiForce end can into place. 10. Loosely attach the two rubber bands, stainless steel bands K, and stay / hanger G to the end can using the supplied 6mm hardware H. See figure 1. 11. Place the bands approximately 108 mm from the edge of the end can. See figure 2. 12. Using the stock provided mounting point on the passenger footpeg, and using the stock mounting bolt, mount the end can loosely, allowing for some adjustment. Insert the stock mounting bolt through the stay / hanger G. 13. Attach the supplied springs to all the joints, starting from the headpipes and working back to the end can. 14. Make sure the exhaust system is free and clear, if necessary jiggle the system to adjust for proper clearance. 15. Carefully align the two stainless bands K so that they are parallel to each other, and spaced properly on the can (refer to step 11 /figure 2), then tighten the 6mm hardware H and the stock mounting bolt hardware. Make sure that the rubber pads fully cover the band(s). USE CAUTIONWHEN TIGHTENING THE 6MM HARDWARE AND THE TWO BANDS SO AS NOT TO CRUSH OR DISTORT THE SLEEVE OF THE CAN. 16. Using some brake and contact cleaner on a clean rag, carefully wipe down the entire exhaust system to remove any residual oils, anti seize, fingerprints and dirt prior to starting the motor. FAILURE TO CLEAN THE TUBING AND CAN MAY RESULT IN PERMANENT STAINING OF THE SYSTEM WHEN HEATED. 17. Go back and reinstall the radiator and oil cooler as per factory specifications. Verify fluid levels as needed. 18. Checkthat all hardware is properly tightened, then start the motor and check for exhaust leaks. 19. Reinstall the fairing and tighten any fasteners per factory specification

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