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YAMAHA FJR1300N PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 17-12-2010

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Always keep the battery charged. Storing a discharged battery can cause permanent battery damage. ● To charge a sealed-type (MF) battery, a special (constant- voltage) battery charger is required. Using a conventional battery charger will damage the battery. If you do not have access to a sealed-type (MF) battery charger, have a Yamaha dealer charge your battery. EAU04076* Replacing the fuses The fuse box, which contains the fuses for the individual circuits, is located under panel D. The fuel injection system fuse box is located under panel D. The main fuse box is also located under panel D, beside the battery. (See page 6-7 for panel removal and installation procedures.) If a fuse is blown, replace it as follows. 1. Turn the key to “OFF” and turn off the electrical circuit in question. 2. Remove the blown fuse, and then install a new fuse of the specified amperage. 1. Fuel injection system fuse 2. Spare fuel injection system fuse 1. Headlight fuse 2. Signaling system fuse 3. Ignition fuse 4. Windshield motor fuse 5. Radiator fan fuse 6. Backup fuse (odometer and clock) 7. Spare fuse (〈 4)
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR 6-31 6 EC000103 CAUTION: Do not use a fuse of a higher amperage rating than recommended to avoid causing extensive damage to the electrical system and possibly a fire. 3. Turn the key to “ON” and turn on the electrical circuit in question to check if the device operates. 4. If the fuse immediately blows again, have a Yamaha dealer check the electrical system. EAU04099 Replacing a headlight bulb This motorcycle is equipped with quartz bulb headlights. If a headlight bulb burns out, replace it as follows. 1. Remove panel B (if replacing the left headlight bulb) or panel C (if replacing the right headlight bulb). (See page 6-7 for panel removal and installation procedures.) 2. Disconnect the headlight coupler, and then remove the headlight bulb cove

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KAWASAKI VOYAGER AIR HORN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 27-12-2010

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1. Remove the false fuel tank cover to expose the battery. Remove the right hand lower leg fairing. (4 phillips screws). Unplug the stock horn and remove the (2) 10mm bolts securing it to the frame. 2. See photo #1 using the stock horn bolts attach the black horn mounting bracket and the white ground wire supplied as shown. Next locate the relay supplied. Plug the stock horn wires into the relay terminals #85 & #86. (see wiring diagram on back side of instructions) 3. Attach the air hose to the compressor air outlet fitting. Attach the short red wire supplied to the compressors positive (+) terminal and the white wire installed earlier to the compressors ground (-) terminal. As shown in photo #2. Attach the compressor to the frame with the hose clamp provided. Note: position the top of the compressor as shown touching the bottom of the horn mounting bracket and approximately 1 Ω” to the rear of radiator and shroud. Also the air hose and fitting should be in front of the frame tube with the hose routed inside the hose clamp without pinching the hose. Attach the red wire from the compressor to one of the relays remaining outer terminals #30 or #87. Attach the remaining long red wire (supplied) to the remaining relay terminal #30 or #87. Secure the relay to the frame with a cable tie supplied. Route the red wire up to the battery positive (+) terminal. Locate the fuse wire assembly provided. Attach the fork end of the fuse wire to the battery positive (+) terminal. Cut the red wire to the desired length, strip the end and crimp to the fuse assembly. Turn on the ignition and press the horn button, you should hear the compressor motor run. Re-install the false fuel tank lid. Re-install the right lower leg fairing while routing the air hose out next to the black horn mounting bracket 4. See photo #3, Bolt the horn set to the black mounting bracket using the 5/16 x æ”bolt, washer and lock washer provided. Trim the air hose to length if necessary and attach the air hose to the horn assembly. Install the trumpet covers. (see instructions enclosed with covers) Turn on the ignition and test the horns

Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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Kawasaki Voyager Installation And Removal Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Review entire installation manual Remove saddle bags and rear fender cover Modify rear fender bolt slots Install receiver hitch and double check all bolts Remount saddle bags Assemble InstaTrike hitch cart Attach InstaTrike to motorcycle via receiver hitch Attach leanstop brace bolts to receiver hitch Align InstaTrike wheels Double check all bolts for tightness Test ride InstaTrike slowly in an open area to familiarize yourself with handling characteristics Receiver Hitch Installation INSTALL ALL BOLTS AND BRACKETS LOOSLEY UNTIL ALL COMPONENTS ARE IN PLACE! 1) Place motorcycle on its center stand 2) Remove saddle bags and rear fender 3) At the bottom of the rear fender locate two bolt slots. (bolts were removed from these when rear fender was removed) Open the front end of these slots in order to remount fender. 4) Replace bottom fender bolts about 2 or 3 turns. This is necessary to be able to remount rear fender. 5) Attach bracket A to motorcycle. Locate two threaded holes (6mm) near the top of the sub frame. Bolt top of bracket A to these holes. ( bolts provided ) 6) Attach bracket B ( left side ) / C ( right side ) to motorcycle by replacing the bolt that holds the muffler to the frame and vibration absorber with the new bolt provided. Bracket B/C mounts on the outside of the large chrome washer. 7) Attach brackets A, B, C to the hitch ( top ) 8) Replace rear fender 9) Attach brackets D and E to the motorcycle sub frame with U- bolts provided. Attach brackets to hitch. 10) Tighten all bolts and double check. 11) Reinstall saddle bags

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Kawasaki Exhausts – ZX-6 ZX-10 Zx-14 Exhaust – Slip-ons INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo

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Kawasaki Voyager 1700 Hitch Removal both saddlebags and Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-05-2012

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Remove the seat. Remove both saddlebags by removing the 3 bolts shown below Remove the plastic liner in the bottom of the trunk by gently pushing in on the center of the plastic clips Once the liner is removed remove the trunk rear light assembly by removing the 4 black screws in side the trunk and 4 on the bottom side of the light assembly. Unplug the light assembly and set it aside. Remove the bolts for the trunk Have a friend hold the trunk up and remove the 4 screws (two on each side) for the side trim Put the bolts back inside the trunk and tighten finger tight to make sure it does not fall. Remove the remaining side trim screws, 5 on each side, and remove the side trim and set it aside Remove 2 bolts from the saddle bag supports. Place the side plate mounting bracket behind the saddlebag supports and replace the two bolts you removed in the previous step. (We recommend using a few drops of Loctite). Do this step for both sides of the bike. Place the side plate behind the mounting bracket and attach the side plates to the mounting brackets with the two bolts supplied with the hitch (We recommend using Loctite on this step) Repeat this step for both sides of the bike

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2009 Kawasaki Voyager Heated Grips Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Remove the Factory Grips Before removing the factory grips, the”chromed plastic”grip end caps need to be removed. The chromed plastic ends are threaded on, but have”left hand”threads, which means to unscrew you need to turn them clockwise. (The opposite way that you would normally unscrew something) To do that I recommend using, either a rubber strap wrench, ora sheet of thin rubber used as you would to loosen the lid of ajar. Once Ihadtheend caps off, I used a sharp utility knife to cut through, and peel off the factory rubber grips. (They are only about 1/8″thicksoit’seasytodo.) With the rubber grips off, I removed the chromed ring that is adjacent to the left switch housing. The left ring will come off, witha gentle pull, but the throttle side ring will need to be cutoff, as it’s pressed on. It’seasytodo; I cut it off using wire side cutters (see picture on page 3 below). 2 Factory left and right Grips After removing the chromed end cap, and the factory rubber grips. The chromed plastic ring next to the switch housing needs to be cut off. Note all the ridges on the sleeve, all these except one ridge need to be filed off. 1. Prepare left handlebar for grip installation The left handlebar is pretty easy to prepare, first I cleaned any glue from the bar, and then gently test fit the left grip, be very careful here as it needs to slide on easily. Asper the instructions, ” Do not force the grip on with anything greater than gentle hand force “. Remember after the test fit you need to take it off again. (You could also crack the heated grip if it’stootight). If you find it too tight, as I did sand the bar using sandpaper until it slides on and off easily. On my bike I used an 80 grit sandpaper, and it took approx 20 minutes to geta good fit

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2008 Kawasaki ZG1400 Concours ABS Front 3-Line Kit and FK003D625R Single Line Rear INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Step 1: Identify the key components that complete our front brake line kit: You should have three (3) hoses, one (1) double banjo bolt, and two (2) single banjo bolts There are also a total of nine (9) washers and (3) brass conic inversors. Seven (7) washers and two (2) inversors will be used; the rest are spares. If you have purchased a rear kit as well, locate the following additional pieces: One (1) hose with bracket and c-clip attached, one (1) single banjo bolt, two (2) brass inversors and three (3) washers. You will use one (1) “olive” conic inversor and two (2) washers, the rest are spares. Step 2: To ensure no paint damage from a brake fluid spill, completely cover the front end of the bike. This process can be messy, and brake fluid WILL drip! Step 3: After drying out the OEM brake system, uninstall stock hoses. On the front brake line kit, we are replacing three hoses and their respective blocks (see pictures 1-2 for blocks) . For the rear, we are replacing one hose from the master cylinder to the ABS hard line. Take note of how the stock system was routed, in case you need to reinstall it. Step 4: Locate Line A – This will travel from the master cylinder to the ABS Junction. (See picture 3) You will use a single banjo bolt and two washers at the master cylinder, and an “olive” inversor to thread female end to hard pipe for incoming ABS (right side). * We have replaced the block at the upper triple clamp with a c-clip; please use your stock bolt to thread this in. (See picture 4) Locate Line B – This will travel from the ABS Junction to the right caliper. First, thread the female end to the hard pipe for outgoing ABS (left side). There will be a bolt from the OEM blocks at ABS Junction; please use this to thread c-clips into frame as shown in picture 5 . There is another bolt/OEM block located at the lower triple clamp; please use this to thread the c-clip in as seen in picture 6. Locate Line C – This will cross over the front fender using OEM holders, from right caliper to left caliper. Thread caliper banjos from Line B and C using the following sequence: double banjo hex, washer, 40- degree banjo from Line C, washer, 20-degree banjo from Line B, washer, caliper. Please see pictures 7 and 8 for reference. Thread single banjo bolt into left caliper, using two washers and 40-degree banjo. If applicable, locate rear Line D – this will travel from the rear master cylinder to the hard line for ABS. Thread the hard pipe into female end using a “olive” inversor, and attach bracket to swingarm as seen in picture 9 . Use the bolt from the holder for ABS hose, and sit our bracket on top of the OEM holder. Using the bolt from the OEM ABS hose holder in location shown in picture 10 , attach the c-clip on top of holder and tighten. Finally, thread 30-degree banjo in caliper using the following sequence: single banjo hex, washer, banjo, washer, caliper

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Harley Davidson Power Pod Switch Housing Throttle Bracket Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-03-2012

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Attach the “Y” bracket to the Power Pod by using the two Power Pod socket head screws that come in your parts kit. (This bracket may already be attached from the factory. ) 2) Remove the two screws on the Right Hand switch housing on your Harley Davidson motorcycle and reinstall them through the two “Y” bracket open holes and back into the switch housing holes. Tighten snugly. In this mounting position, the heads of the two socket head screws holding the “Y” bracket to the Power Pod should be touching the handlebar; this is necessary as it grounds the unit for proper operation. If the unit is not grounded properly, it will not operate. 3) Run the Power Pod’s 60″ power cord to your battery. Make sure as you hide the cord on the way to the battery, that your handlebars turn freely and that the cord does not come in contact with hot engine parts that may melt the wire over time. 4) At some point, before reaching the battery, attach (using the two butt connectors) the in-line fuse holder. TIP: Keeping the in-line fuse holder in an easy to access place (like under a side panel etc) rather than under the seat, may help you service the fuse easier in case of a blown fuse. In most cases, it’s easier to pull a side panel off than it is to remove a seat! 5) Attach the Power Pod lead wire (with in-line fuse now already attached) directly to the battery for power at anytime without using the key. The hot lead can also be run to the fuse box which will require using the ignition switch to “Accessory” or “ON” in some cases. TIP : Always use the in-line fuse for safety. 6) Insert the 20 amp fuse into the in-line fuse holder. Strap down with zip-ties any loose wires and you’re done!

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KAWASAKI STX-12F, STX-15F Riva/Vortech Supercharged STX-15F Engine INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our race bred Supercharger System for the Kawasaki STX-15F contains all necessary engine components to produce the ultimate 80mph closed course race craft. Kit contains the same specifications that Team Kawasaki won two 2004 Pro Runabout World Titles with. System produces over 300hp using VP MS109 race fuel (Jet X). Kit includes Vortech Supercharger & Intercooler Forged Racing Pistons, Free flow Exhaust Kit, Race programmed ECU, High volume Injectors & Fuel Pump along with all necessary hardware and detailed installation instructions. Riva/Vortech Supercharged STX-15F Engine (Team Kawi Spec) PERFORMANCE DATA Stock 61 MPH @ 7,600 RPM Supercharged 80+ MPH @ 8,300 RPM RIVA STX-15F OFFSHORE RACE KIT Our Offshore Racing Kit for the Kawasaki STX-15F contains the same components and specifications that Team Kawasaki developed to dominate the international racing circuit. This modification delivers over 200hp producing awesome acceleration and a top speed of over 700mph using VP MS109 race fuel (Jet X). Kit includes high compression racing pistons, performance intake & exhaust cam shafts, Race programmed ECU along with all necessary gaskets and detailed installation instructions

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