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1999-2002 Indian Motorcycle Mirror Housing Removal and Replacement

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Filed Under (Indian) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. Remove seat. 2. Disconnect battery. 3. Remove handlebar cover on top-center of handlebar. 4. Remove left-side clutch-bracket assembly. This exposes an access hole on the underside of the handlebar. 5. Pass the end of the Signal® mirror wires through one of the small holes located on the underside of the clutch-bracket assembly housing. 6. Take piano wire/fish tape and insert at the access hole located on the underside of the handlebar to the center of the handlebar (center handlebar cover removed). 7. Fasten the end of the Signal® mirror wires to the piano wire/fish tape and pull through the handlebars to the center opening. 8. Pull excess wire through the handlebars leaving approximately 2″ of extra wire at the mirror side. 9. Re-assemble clutch-bracket assembly allowing the Signal® mirror wire to wrap around the outside edge of the cover assembly into the underside access hole. Secure Signal® mirror with enclosed 1.5″ long 5/ 16 ” – 24 Allen head bolt. 10. Loosen throttle assembly side and slide back to expose access hole. DO NOT REMOVE THROTTLE ASSEMBLY. Proceed to pass the Signal® mirror wire through the handlebar at the opposite side and re-assemble the throttle assembly. 11. Run both sets of wires under the fuel tank along the topside of the frame to the battery compartment. 12. Connect both black wires to the enclosed ring connector for connection to the battery ground terminal. 13. Locate the male/female electrical connector that is located behind the battery. This wiring assembly is for your tail lamp assembly for braking and turning (see photo). 14. Make sure the harnesses are routed securely to the wire connectors and enough slack is left for splicing or soldering. Cut the heat shrink into (4) equal pieces (approx. 2″ each). 15. Slide the heat shrink over the passenger side Signal® mirror wire. Solder the Right Signal® mirror wire to the Brown wire. Slide the heat shrink over to cover the soldered area. Heat the shrink tube into place with a heat shrink gun or hair dryer. 16. Repeat sliding the heat shrink over the driver side Signal® mirror wire. Solder the Left Signal® mirror wire to the Purple wire. Slide the heat shrink over to cover the soldered area. Heat the shrink tube into place with a heat shrink gun or hair dryer. 17. Connect ground and positive battery connections. 18. Re-install seat.

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AJS WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTMENT

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Front Wheel (a) With the machine on the centre stand, disconnect the brake cable and remove the wheel. (b) Slacken the circular lock-nut (10). (c) Turn the adjusting sleeve (9) clockwise until all the slackness is just taken up. (d) Turn the adjusting sleeve (9) anticlockwise one-half a turn. It will now be necessary to drive the bearing back against the sleeve and this is done by:— (e) placing the wheel under a press and pressing the end of the spindle (on the brake-side) downwards. or: (f) jarring the end of the spindle on the brake-side with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged, (g) Tighten the circular lock-nut (10). Hold the sleeve in position while this is being done otherwise the sleeve may move and the adjustment will be in- correct. (h) Refit the wheel and check for end-float. Front Wheel Bearing Assembly T www.ajs-matchles s.info ISSUED BY A·J·S MOTOR CYCLES, LONDON, S.E.18. Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly for Quickly Detachable Wheels Rear Wheel (a) Disconnect the speedometer driving cable. (b) Remove the lock-nut (16) which secures the speedometer-drive gear­ box in position. (c) Remove the wheel. (d) Grasp the speedometer-drive gearbox (15) with the fingers and firmly pull it away from the hub. (e) Proceed as described in the instructions for the front wheel (b) to (d). Note that in the illustrations for the rear wheel the circular lock-nut is (13) and the adjusting sleeve is (14), It will now be necessary to drive the bearing back against the sleeve and this is done in the following manner: Quickly Detachable Wheels (f) place the wheel under a press, brake- side uppermost, and apply pressure to the oil-seal distance piece (6), or; (g) jarr the end of the oil-seal distance piece (6) with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged. Wheels for Rigid-Frame Models (h) Remove the brake-side spindle nut (19), washer (18), fork-end spacer (17), outer spacer (20), and the brake plate (21). (i) Place the wheel, brake-side uppermost. under a press and apply pressure to the oil-seal distance piece (6). or; (j) jarr the end of the oil-seal distance piece (6) with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged. All Rear Wheels (k) Refit the speedometer-drive gearbox. It is pushed on. The two dogs must engage with the slots in the end-face of the adjusting sleeve. (l) Refit the lock nut (16). (m) Refit the wheel into the frame and check for end-float. (n) Tighten the lock-nut (16) and refit the speedometer driving cable

2008 Harley Davidson Touring models with an electronic throttle Grips Installation manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-03-2012

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1. Using a sharp knife, remove the rubber from your current grip by carefully cutting it away from the existing plastic throttle sleeve. The rubber that is adhered to the plastic sleeve must be ” shaved” resulting in a smooth plastic sleeve with no rubber. 2. Apply glue to the throttle sleeve. Use about 1/4 of the tube of glue on each side. Most of the glue should be applied to the end of the sleeve away form the throttle housing. 3. Slide the grip on to the throttle sleeve with one strong push. Use a rubber mallet if needed. Be sure not to get any of the glue into the space between the throttle sleeve and the throttle housing as well as the space between the throttle sleeve and the handlebar. *Wipe up any excess glue immediately

HARLEY-DAVIDSON V-ROD BIG BORE KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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The cylinder sleeves provided with the Wiseco V-Rod big bore kit have been finished honed to size and the piston to cylinder clearance has been set. Prior to installation, the sleeves must be washed in hot soapy water (not parts washer solvent) and dried. Coat the bore surface with motor oil and wipe it with a white towel. If the towel shows any remaining grit, repeat the hot soapy water washing process until the towel will only show clean motor oil. CAUTION: Test fit the cleaned sleeve (without O-Rings installed) into the engine block. Sleeve should drop into position. If sleeve will not easily drop into position, warm the engine block with a hair dryer until sleeve will drop into position. Remove sleeve, then continue installation procedures. From the bottom side of the sleeve, gently roll the 2-cylinder sleeve O-rings into the two grooves on each sleeve. Apply motor oil to the O-rings and gently install the sleeves into the block until bottomed. CAUTION: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL SLEEVES WITHOUT LUBRICATING THE O-RINGS. FAILURE TO LUBRICATE O-RINGS COULD RESULT IN TORN OR DAMAGED O-RINGS THAT WOULD NOT BE EVIDENT UNTIL ENGINE WAS STARTED. INCORRECTLY INSTALLED O-RINGS CAN RESULT IN CATASTROPHIC ENGINE DAMAGE. NOTE: REFER TO THE OEM SERVICE MANUAL FOR ALL TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS PISTON RING PREPARATION Wiseco V-Rod pistons incorporate an advanced 2 ring system • The top ring is file-fit, and as such, requires that the end gap must be clearanced. The proper end gap clearance is .016-.018″ with the ring installed squarely in the bore. The top ring must be installed on the piston with the dot marking toward the top of the piston. • The oil ring is comprised of the expander and two rails. Install the expander first, and then the rails. Check to make sure the expander tips have not overlapped. It is not necessary to clearance the end gaps on the oil rails. The rails should be installed without modification. PISTON INSTALLATION The Wiseco V-Rod big bore kit is supplied with pistons that are front and rear cylinder specific. Install the front piston 4792M10795 in the front cylinder with the arrow facing the front of the engine. Install the rear piston 4793M10795 in the rear cylinder with the arrow facing the front of the engine. A piston ring compressor is required to install the pistons into the cylinders. Front of engine ➔ 4792M10795 ( Front piston) 4793M10795 ( Rear piston) FWD 4793M10795 FWD 4792M10795 For further information call the Wiseco Tech Line:

2007 – 2009 APRILIA RSV MILLE EVOLUTION OPEN EXHAUST SYSTEM

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 06-11-2010

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Measurements of the Akrapovic EVOLUTION street legal system on the APRILIA RSV MILLE (with muffler insert): Power & Torque: the Akrapovic exhaust system increase the responsiveness of the Aprilia and fill out the power and torque curves. The increase in power and torque starts already at around 3000 rpm and leads all the way to the top of the rpm range. At 10300 rpm we measured a massive 129.1 HP on rear wheel and max. increase of power 9.4 HP at 10550 rpm. CONFIGURATION The Racing and Evolution systems differ only in the selection of tubing materials. The Racing is made of stainless steel, and the Evolution is made of titanium. Both systems have conical tubes, collectors, and a link pipe. All of the system components are attached with sleeve joints secured with silicon-shielded springs. The header tubes come with interference crossover tubes, and the systems also include a fitting for attaching a lambda sensor. The HEXAGONAL muffler is definitely the most eye- catching element of the system. It is made of a titanium inlet cap and perforated inner sleeve, while the outlet cap is made of carbon fiber. The outer sleeve is available in titanium or carbon fiber. The muffler is attached to the frame using an Akrapovic carbon fiber clamp. PERFORMANCE stock AKRAPOVIC max. increased power max. rear wheel power HP / rpm (measured on Dynojet ATV) 122.1 / 9740 129.1 / 10300 9.4 / 10550 interference crossover tubes YES (in collector) lambda sensor YES header tube inner sleeves – header tube flanges S.S LASER CUT header tubes – collector connection SLEEVE JOINT + SILICON SHIELDED SPRINGS collector / header tube – link pipe connection SLEEVE JOINT + SILICON SHIELDED SPRINGS link pipe – muffler connection SLEEVE JOINT + SILICON SHIELDED SPRINGS muffler inlet cap /outlet cap Ti / Carb.-fiber muffler metal interior TITANIUM muffler outer sleeve Ti / Carb.-fiber muffler clamp CARBON-FIBER muffler bracket Carb.-fiber (OPTIONAL) muffler insert EU YES heat shield YES (stock) US – catalytic converter YES (2x) CONFIGURA- TION CONFIGURATION header tubes collector link pipe material S.S. (begining) S.S. / TI (header tube) S.S. / TI STAINLESS STEEL / TITANIUM tube shape CONICAL CONICAL CONICAL Technical specifications of Akrapovic exhaust systems and related products subject to change without notice. ADDITIONAL DATA weight comparison (kg) stock AKRAPOVIC difference 12.57 S.S. link pipe TITANIUM link pipe stock – S.S. stock – titanium – 5.52

HARLEY DAVIDSON VRSCD SADDLEBAG MOUNTING KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 14-04-2011

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INSTALLATION Prepare Bike for Hardware Installation 1. Use a suitable lift to support the motorcycle under the frame until the rear suspension is fully extended. NOTE To remove the tether from the hole in the frame, reach under the frame tube to align the metal tee (located on the end of the seat tether) with the tether cable. 2. See Figure 1. Unlatch and open seat. Remove tether (4) by sliding small clip (3) sideways through hole in frame. NOTE To remove the tubular plastic seat-hinge sleeve from the hinge, turn the sleeve to reveal the slotted length. Push on the slot with your finger to pop the sleeve off the hinge pins. Closing the seat slightly allows the sleeve to fall from the hinge-side of the seat, so be prepared to catch the sleeve. 3. Remove plastic sleeve (2) from hinge pins (1) and slide pins toward rear of bike. Remove seat. 2 1 4 3 is 00449 1. Hinge 2. Sleeve 3. Clip 4. Remove tether from frame Figure 1. Remove Seat 3 1 2 is 00450 1. Grabstrap 2. Passenger Pillion 3. Screw and Washer Figure 2. Remove Passenger Pillion 4. See Figure 2. Remove screw and washer (3) securing passenger pillion to frame. Slide pillion under grabstrap (1) and forward to disengage from tongue to remove. Save pillion mounting screw and washer for later use

HONDA GL 18001-RP Illuminator Replacement Lamp Set Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 23-12-2010

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1. Remove the plastic caps covering the brake and clutch master cylinder clamp bolts, remove the clamp bolts and clamps. Pull the master cylinders away from the handlebars and let them rest on the fairing storage compartment covers. 2. Using a heat gun or a hair dryer warm up the old lamps one at a time until they are hot to the touch then carefully peel them away from the switch housings. 3. Remove any remaining adhesive from the old lamps left on the housings using rubbing alcohol. Locate the wire harness to the lamp connectors covered with heat shrink tubing. Using a sharp knife carefully cut the heat shrink tubing open lengthwise. Carefully taking caution to not cut the wires, peel the heat shrink tubing open, then away and off the connection. Unplug the lamps from the harness. Replace any of the gold pin connectors on the harness if needed with the new ones supplied. 4. Slide the heat shrink tubing over the gold pins and wire harness ends. Carefully plug the gold pins from the harness onto the lamp connectors (NOTE: the metal connectors on the lamps can break if bent from side to side).Turn on the ignition and verify that all three lamps are working. Slide the heat shrink tubing over the connections and shrink using a heat gun, hair dryer or lighter being careful not to melt the lamp ends. 5. Using your heat gun or hair dryer warm one of the switch housings and the matching lamp so that they are hot to the touch (about 140 degrees). Peel the backing from the lamp, carefully place in position, press firmly onto housing, wrap the tail of the lamp with the wires around the housing and then rub over the entire lamp firmly several times to ensure good adhesion. 6. Reassemble the master cylinders and clamps onto the handlebars being careful not to pinch the wires or lamps.

YAMAHA ROADSTAR TRIKE Removal of Clear Taillights and installation of Red Taillights

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 16-02-2011

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1 Installation of Lights 1.1 Support the trike on jack stands and remove the wheels. 1.2 Remove the clear lights from the inside of the wheel wells by unscrewing the three (3) screws from the light. 1.3 Unplug the wires and remove the lights. 1.4 Remove the chrome bezels and rubber gaskets from the clear lights and install on the red lights (5 screws). 1.5 Re-connect the wire plugs and install the red lights to the trike body using the same three screws. 1.6 Replace the wheels and torque the lug nuts to 75 lb.ft. 2 Wire modification inside trunk 2.1 From the inside of the trunk pull back the carpet on both the left and right hand sides to expose the wire harnesses coming from the wheel wells. 2.2 Locate the resistors in the harness, 2.5″ x 0.5″ x 0.5″, and covered by black shrink wrap. 2.3 Cut the shrink wrap to expose the resistors and cut wire on both side of the resistors. Remove and discard resistors. 2.4 Splice in the supplied 5″ green wires (WITHOUT the diodes) with 2 blue scotchlock connectors per side to reconnect the cut wires. 2.5 Do not glue in carpet until lights are tested. 3 Change to pigtail from Trike to Motorcycle. 3.1 Remove driver’s sear 3.2 Unplug pigtail from motorcycle (MC) wiring and trike body wiring. 3.3 Cut heat shrink on the MC plug side of the pigtail and pull expansion sleeve back to expose the wires. Figure 1 3.4 Cut Green and Yellow turn signal wires and about 3″ from the MC plug and splice in Green and Yellow wires from the supplied resistors with the supplied hest shrink solder connectors (heat to be applied) – (three wires in one connection) Figure 1 3.5 Cut the Red (Brake) and Brown (Running lights) wires and splice in the supplied diodes with the supplied heat shrink solder connectors. Red side of the diode wire facing the Trike plug. Figure 1 3.6 Connect eye lug on the black wire from the resistors to the negative terminal of the battery. Figure 2 3.7 Plug pigtail back into the Trike body and the MC

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Motorcycle Hand Warmer Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Disconnect the Positive (+) terminal from the battery. 2. Remove the existing grip from the Clutch side. Removing the grip may require blowing compressed air in the end between the grip and the bar, injecting brake cleaner fluid, or cutting it off. 3. Clean the handlebar where the grip was removed with alcohol or a solvent to remove all residue and dry with a clean cloth. 4. Determine where the Clutch side heater will be mounted. Take the heater marked “Clutch” and place it on the handlebar approximately ½” from the end and decide the position of the wires. It is recommended to mount the heater so the wires are at 9:00 o’clock or they can be positioned on the bottom for appearance. Peel off the release paper and adhere the heater to the handlebar with the wires toward the headlight. 5. Apply a high temperature adhesive (such as JB Weld) to the inside of the Clutch side grip. Install the grips over the heaters and let the adhesive cure as instructed by the adhesive manufacturer. 6. The Throttle side heater is installed on the throttle sleeve under the rubber cover. Remove the rubber cover that is installed over the throttle sleeve so the Throttle side heater can be applied. Some of the throttle sleeves have ribs which need to be cut or ground off so the heater can make full contact with the sleeve surface or it will over heat in the void areas. 7. Determine where the throttle side heater will be mounted. Take the heater marked “Throttle” and place it on the throttle sleeve approximately ½” from the end and decide the position of the wires. It is recommended to mount the heater so the wires are at 3:00 o’clock with a loop to allow for the twisting motion of the throttle. Peel off the release paper and adhere the heater to the throttle sleeve with the wires toward the headlight. 8. Apply a thin coat of adhesive (such as J.B. Weld) to the surface of heater only and reroll the rubber hand grip over the entire throttle sleeve. Wipe off any excessive adhesive that may have rolled out

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Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha GRIPS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1 (Fig. 1) 3 Apply glue to the throttle sleeve. Most of the glue should be applied to the end of the sleeve away from the throttle housing. 4 Slide the grip onto throttle sleeve with one strong push (Fig. 2). NOTE: Be sure not to get any glue into the space between the throttle sleeve and the throttle sleeve housing, as well as the space between the throttle sleeve and the handle bar. Wipe up any excess glue immediately. Allow 6 hours for glue to set before using . GRIPS Remove clutch side grip by carefully cutting it away from the handlebar with a sharp knife. 1 Apply glue to the bar. Most of the glue should be applied to the end of the bar away from the switch housing. 2 Slide the grip onto the bar with one strong push. Wipe away any excess glue immediately. Allow 6 hours for glue to set before using. (Fig. 3)

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