Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 12-12-2010
• Upgrade Your Pre- 2002 FL Or FXR Rear Fork & Get Rid Of The Crappy & Dangerous (Cleve Blocks) & Replace Them With A Stable System. • R & R your Swing Arm, Belt Drive, Swing Arm Pivot Shaft, and Rear Wheel. The paragraphs below are a photo journey into the replacement of a FL or FXR swing arm. To upgrade the pre 2002 FL, here is a How-To on cheaply replacing the poor parts Harley stuck you with. Now – Let’s Get Er’ Done • Pre- 2002 had weak swing arms and are known to fail. The cleve blocks are the cause of “Rear Steer” or “Rear Fork Deflection”. Harley came up with a patch in 2002, using bearings. Because the pre 2002 transmissions have a 5/8″ mounting hole for the 5/8″ swing arm pivot shaft, a conversion unit has been made. No transmission removal for boring is necessary. Under no circumstances, do I recommend drilling out the transmission case with a hand drill. The drill will “wander” (drift)! • Solution: Go to either a trike shop/manufacturer, e-Bay, or shop and buy a new style swingarm. Harley made an additional upgrade in 2007, try and buy this type 2007 & above). If upgrading to a 2008, Harley use 25mm (smaller than 1″) axles & wheel bearings, you will have to use 25mm bearings. With that said, let’s get on with it. • In the case of a 2007 swingarm; buy and do not pay over $40 for the swing arm and axle. You must use the corresponding axle as a ¾” axle set-up is different (along with wheel bearings & spacers). You positively can not use a pre -2002 HD stock wheel because the wheel bearing spacer will fit into the wheel. Buy 2002 & above style wheels as they (9 spoke) are cheep. • You are going to have to either bore out your stock rear caliper bracket or better still, upgrade your whole rear brake to the new model & sell yours on e-Bay. • I recommend doing the following before hand and have it ready for installation; Remove bearings et al. from the 2002 & later swing arm via press. Bike Work: • Jack up your bike using a center jack. Secure the bike so it will not fall over. You can also use a motorcycle jack. I use a motorcycle dolly
Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 10-11-2010
Unpacking your Cobra Installing the front shock Installing the front tires Installing rear shocks Installing the rear tires Installing seats and harnesses Steering wheel installation Roll cage installation Safety checks / Adjustments General maintenance Unpacking your Cobra First off you should pull the carton off from your new 250 Cobra cart. Inspect the cart thoroughly to make sure that your new Cobra has not been heavily damaged. You will notice that the product has a metal frame holding it in place; you may want to start removing bolts from the shipping steel frame. The next step is to remove the metal frame and lift it off of the cart. Remove any of the metal frame that may afford resistance when working on the cart it self. Be careful the metal frame may be heavy and sharp. Now would also be a good time to inspect your Cobra a little more thoroughly. In the box with the Cobra you should have found a box containing miscellaneous hardware. Installing the front shock Using some of the bolts you found in your box, install the front shocks sliding the bolt through the brackets and tighten the nut down. Next, you will need to place the ball head into the turning arm, then tighten the castle nut and insert a cotter pin so that the castle nut doesn’t loosen and become a hazard. Installing the front tires
Find the front tires and place them on the front hub and place the lug nuts on the studs. Tighten them down. Make sure that all of the lug nuts are on tightly. Installing the rear shocks Moving to the rear of the Cobra you will notice the rear shocks are not inserted. Place the rear shocks into the bracket on the rear of the Cobra. Slide one of the provided bolts through the bracket and shock eyelet and tighten the bolt down. Installing the rear tires Now that the shocks have been placed properly you can install the rear tires, place the tires onto the axle then place the rear rim lined up onto the axle and tighten the provided castle nut down. Place the cotter pin through the axle and bend off to the side. This is so the castle nut does not loosen under load. Installing the seats and harnesses
(The arrow points to an example of where the seat bolts mount) Find the two racing seats shipped in the box with the Cobra. You will need to affix them to the frame by sliding the bolts up through the bottom of the frame. This can be tricky so have patience. Once both seats have been placed in the cart and tightened find the harnesses. Once found the harnesses mount to a bracket behind the seats. Place a bolt through the bracket and bolt the harnesses down tightly. Installing the steering wheel Find the steering wheel and place it onto the steering wheel mount. Grab the six small screws and place them through the steering wheel and mount, tighten them down but also make sure the top of the wheel is facing up. Installing the roll cage
Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 20-12-2011
Remove all contents from its packaging and verify that all parts are present and free from damage. You should have the following items: (2) wheel hubs (2) smaller tapered bearings (2) large tapered bearings (2) wheel bearing nuts (2) dust caps (2) inner bearing seals (6) M3 x .5 screws (2) cotter pins (2) inner bearing spacers 2. Completely remove the old hubs from your quad and clean the spindle and the surrounding areas. It is very important to keep the new bearings and seals clean during installation for long life. Be sure to remove the factory inner bearing spacers from the spindle and discard. They will not be used in re-assembly. 3. Pack your new Timken tapered wheel bearings with a liberal amount of high quality wheel bearing grease. A wheel bearing packer works best, however you can accomplish the task by placing the grease in the palm of your hand and manually working it in between the bearing rollers. We also recommend that you pack the area between the bearing races in the hub with grease for additional lubrication and protection against moisture. 4. Place the large wheel bearing (inner) into the hub and install the inner seal. The seal should bottom out against the step in the bore and the face should be flush with the hub. 5. Remove the brake rotors from your old hubs. Re-install the rotors on your new hubs and be sure to use medium strength Loctite on the threads. 6. Apply a light film of grease or oil to the large diameter of the spindle stud. Install the new o-ringed bearing spacer onto the spindle. 7. Apply a thin film of grease to the seal surface on the bearing spacer and the inside diameter of the seal to prevent the seal from running dry. Install the hub onto the spindle and slide the outer bearing over the spindle and install the new bearing nut furnished with your hubs. Do not use the factory nut or washer. 8. SETTING THE BEARING PRELOAD: It is first necessary to seat the bearing before setting the preload. This aligns the rollers and prevents the bearings from loosening after a short period of use. To seat the bearing, tighten the spindle nut while you rotate the hub until the hub becomes difficult to spin. With the bearing now seated, you must set the bearing preload. Preload means placing a small amount of force against the bearings to remove any clearance between the bearing race and the rollers. This is done by backing the nut off completely and re-tightening it with your fingers. Do not rotate the hub while setting the preload . If a hole in the spindle is not accessible for installation of the cotter pin, adjust the nut tighter to bring a hole into alignment. Install the cotter pin and bend the pin around the outside of the nut. Do not attempt to bend the pin toward you (over the end of the spindle) or it may rub on the inside of the dust cap.
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 27-11-2010
Recommended Parts and Supplies 1. Sawzall or comparable cutting tool. 2. Cut-off tool or jigsaw. 3. Shop or repair manual 4. Shop supplies, (loctite-red and blue, anti-seize, etc.) 5. Assorted hand tools. 6. 4-1/2″ grinder. 7. Drive pulley seal HD part # 11354K (qty.1) 8. Copper cap locking plate HD part # 35451-01K (qty.1) (The seal and locking plate can be re-used if not damaged during removal) Stock component removal To install the 240 kit, it will be necessary to raise the motorcycle off the ground on a suitable lift. WARNING – Be sure to center the motorcycle on the lift so that it does not fall over when you raise it up or when you are working on it. Installation of the 240 kit begins with the disassembly and removal of the rear end of the bike. Start with the simplest and most obvious components. For detailed information on removal of these parts, consult your factory manual. 1. Remove rear wheel assembly and brake. 2. Remove swingarm. 3. Cut brake tab on swingarm (as pictured). 4 4. Clean up casting mark on inside of swingarm in pulley area (as pictured). 5 5. Remove and replace right side swingarm mount with mount included in kit. 6. Install swingarm with new supplied pivot shaft. 7. Install stock spacer on left side of shaft, use supplied stepped spacer between stock spacer and swingarm. (Small step toward bearing). 8. Remove front pulley, and disassemble. 9. Test fit ½” allen bolts in hub before removal. Some models require drilling for bolts to fit. If necessary, use ½” bit and drill before removing, minimal material will be removed. Take caution not to drill too deep and hit case. 6 10. Install supplied adapter on the back to space pulley out. (Use loctite on bolts, and assemble as pictured).
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-04-2011
INSTALLATION 1. Use rubbing alcohol to clean the swingarm surface, pivot bolt, and nut. 2. Place the larger left-side pivot cover (3) over the pivot nut. Position the set screw (4) at the bottom of the cover. Tighten set screw to 16 in-lbs (1.8 Nm) . 3. Remove adhesive backing from and apply the left-side trimplate to the swingarm. Apply pressure to the trimplate on the swingarm for one minute. 4. Remove adhesive backing from and apply an emblem to the center of the pivot cover. Apply pressure to the emblem for one minute. 5. Repeat Steps 1-4 for the right side of the swingarm. 6. Allow adhesive to cure for 24 hours before operating the vehicle. SERVICE PARTS 4 2 5 3 1 5 6 3 is01811 Figure 1. Service Parts: Swingarm Pivot Cover Kit Table 1. Service Parts: Swingarm Pivot Cover Kit Part Number Description (Quantity) Item Not Sold Separately Right-side trimplate and adhe- sive 1 Not Sold Separately Left-side trimplate and adhesive 2 Not Sold Separately Adhesive emblem (2) 3 Not Sold Separately Left-side pivot cover 4 3231B Set screw (2) 5 Not Sold Separately