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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME INNER PRIMARY HOUSING INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Kit Contents Table 1. Kit Contents Part Number Description (Quantity) Not sold separately Chrome Inner Primary Housing 786A Sealing fastener (5) INSTALLATION NOTES Whenever the sealing fasteners are loosened or removed, they must be replaced. Always replace using Harley-Davidson® Original Equipment sealing fasteners part 786A. Do not use part 786. The primary housing included in this kit installs in the same manner as the stock inner primary housing with the following exception: Use the five sealing fasteners included with this kit. Install and tighten fasteners to the torque specified below. For 2006 Dyna model motorcycles: Remove dowel pins from the chrome inner primary housing before attempting installation. Using a pair of pliers or vice grips, remove the dowel pins by carefully twisting and pulling on the pins. Be careful not to scratch or mar the chrome or sealing surfaces of the chrome inner primary housing. Remove the chain tensioner anchor plate, bolt and screws from the stock inner primary housing after it has been removed, then install it on the chrome inner primary housing. See the appropriate Service Manual for the proper tightening procedure, and torque specifications. 1. See the Drive section of the appropriate Service Manual, and remove the stock inner primary housing. Clean the internal threads in the crankcase and transmission case where the sealing fasteners were removed using a wire brush. Install the chrome inner primary housing as indicated below. Replace the five stock sealing fasteners with the five bolts included in this kit. Put a light coat of primary oil under the head of the sealing fasteners and then tighten to 23-25 ft- lbs (31-34 Nm)

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME INNER PRIMARY COVERS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1 2 3 is06139 Figure 1. Remove Three Original Equipment Screws As Shown 1. See Figure 1. Remove the stock fasteners as shown in Figure 1. Save screw (3) for reuse. 2. Install the stock fastener in the rear inner cover. Place a locating washer over the fastener with the rounded side facing toward the hole in the primary chain case. 3. Slide the rear inner cover into place and loosely secure it with the stock fastener. 1 is06416 1. Acorn nut Figure 2. Fasten Front And Rear Inner Primary Covers Together 4. See Figure 2. Position the front inner cover over the rear inner cover and make sure that the hole in the front cover fits over the threaded stud in the rear cover. Secure the covers together with the acorn nut installed finger tight. 5. See Figure 3 and Table 1. Place the new 4.25 inch (5) and 1-1/2 inch (4) screws in the front inner primary cover. Place locating washers (6) over the fasteners with the rounded side of the washer facing toward the hole in the primary chain case. 6. Tighten all three screws to 108-120 in-lbs (12.2-13.6 Nm) . 7. Tighten the acorn nut. 8. Push the Allen hole plugs (7) into the four exposed screw heads

AJS DISMANTLING AND REBUILDING FULL-WIDTH FRONT WHEEL HUBS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Removal of the Brake-side Bearing Cup The bearing cup (5) is located endwise by a circlip (1), and between the cup and circlip arc an oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), and oil-seal cup washer (2) Before these parts can be removed from the hub the bearing cup must be moved inwards for a very short distance (3/16-inch) so that the circlip can be withdrawn. (n) Gently heat the hub shell. (i) Place a soft metal rod (e.g. brass) against the oil-seal cup washer (2) and apply pressure with a hand press or hammer blows. It is only necessary to move the bearing cup (5) inwards about 1/16-inch. (j) Extract the circlip by inserting a narrow pen-knife blade under one end of the circlip; lift it upwards and outwards and prise the clip out of its groove. (k) Remove the oil-seal cup washer (2), oil seal (3) and oil-seal retaining washer (4). They can be hooked out with the shank of a small and narrow screw­ driver, (l) The bearing cup can now be ejected by placing a suitable rod of soft metal (e.g. brass) in the hub tunnel from the right-hand side and pressing it — with a press or hammer blows — against the bearing cup until the cup is forced out of the bearing. This must be done with care so that the cup remains square with the housing. Reassembly To facilitate replacement of the bearing cups gently heat the hub shell. Just too hot to hold is about the right temperature. (a) Place the brake-side bearing cup squarely in the hub shell — the open end faces inwards — and press it into the hub tunnel A short length of brass rod, slightly less than the outside dia­ meter of the cup, should be interposed between the cup and ram of the press, or hammer head. Press the cup in until the outer face is approximately half-an-inch below the mouth of the hub tunnel. This will allow sufficient room to allow [he circlip to be inserted into its groove. (b) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), oil-seal cup washer (2). (c) The circlip can now be replaced. In the interest of reliability use a new circlip, for it is possible that the existing circlip was strained when it was re­ moved. (d) Insert into the hub tunnel from the right-hand side a brass rod of suitable length, and press the bearing cup firmly against the circlip. (e) Before inserting the spindle complete with the roller races, pack them with clean and fresh grease of a suitable grade (Mobilgrease No. 4. Castrolease heavy, Energrease C3, Esso Pressure Gun Grease. Shelf Retinax Grease CD or A). (0 Insert the spindle into the hub. (g) Place the right-hand side bearing cup in the hub tunnel; the open end faces inwards, It may be necessary to re-heat the hub to allow the cup to go into position without difficulty. (h) Press the cup into position, but do not force it fully home, leave some end play on the spindle. (i) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (6), oil-seal (7) and oil-seal cup washer (8). (j) Screw into the hub the adjusting sleeve (9) until it comes into contact with the bearing cup (5)

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RACE TECH SUSPENSION SERVICE TOOLS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 01-12-2010

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SHOCK SEAL BULLET TOOL “Bullet Tools” make seal head installation onto shafts quick and easy. 35-8677 TSSB12512.5 x 10mm Shock Seal Bullet 35-8678 TSSB1414 x 12mm Shock Seal Bullet 35-8679 TSSB1616 x 12mm Shock Seal Bullet FORK CAP WRENCH 46/50MM Black Oxidized steel construction for superior strength. Multiple applications (46/50mm): Honda CR250 (97-00), Suzuki RM125/250 (96-00), and removes compression adjuster assembly on Suzuki RM125/250 (98-00). Sold each. 35-8670 TFCW4650 Fork Cap Wrench SHAFT HOLDING TOOL Holds fork damping rods, cartridges, shock shafts, etc. while servicing. (aluminum) 35-8672 TFSH10 Shaft Holding Tool 10, 12, 12.5, & 14mm (Dampning Rods) 35-8673 TFSH14 Shaft Holding Tool 14, 16, & 18mm (Shock Shafts) 35-8674 TFSH20 Shaft Holding Tool 20, 24, & 29mm (20 & 25mm Fork Cartridges) 35-8675 TFSH32 Shaft Holding Tool 32 & 35mm (28 & 32mm Fork Cartridges) ULTRA SLICK SEAL GREASE Race Tech Ultra-Slick Grease provides maximum lubrication and minimum friction for all seal and bushing needs. Available in 1 oz. container. 35-8682 Ultra Slick Seal Grease SHOCK SEAL HEAD SETTING TOOL Allows easy removal and installation of all 40 – 46mm integral shock seal head assemblies. 35-8676 TFSH32 Shock Seal Head Setting Tool SAG MASTER™ The Sag Master is a tool that makes measuring “Race Sag”a snap because you read it directly. No more subtracting! Also useful in determining proper spring rates and monitoring linkage and seal drag. Comes with complete instructions and, doubles as a tape measure. 35-8681 TSSM01 Sag Master Race Sag Setting Tool FORK SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL This unique fork spring compressor is designed to work on most current sport bikes and road racers. It allows the spring to be compressed while the fork cap is removed from the rod. It can be used on or off the bike on most models. 35-8680 TFSC01 Fork Spring Compressor Tool

Harley Davidson Twist Gear and Wide Gear Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 11-04-2012

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Assemble triple lip output seal 705002 and output spacer 280001 together. The seal is shipped with high performance grease packed into the seal lips to ensure lubrication and exclude dust & water. (Caution: Only high temperature grease should be used, grease is better than oil, never install the seal dry.) Slide the quad ring and seal/spacer assembly onto the transmission output shaft, then slide tool JE300001 ( TwistGear TM ) or JE300002 ( WideGear ) onto the shaft and finally tighten the nut until the tool drives the seal flush with the case. Do not attempt to install the main drive seal without the JE tool or the seal will be damaged, and the seal performance will be compromised (the JE seal is wider around the shaft for the third sealing lip, which will be damaged if a tool is pressed against it.) It is best that a new JE spacer be used each time a new seal is installed for quick break-in of the main lip seal surface. Counter Shaft Assembly Note the order and orientation of the gears on the counter shaft when it is removed from the trapdoor. Disassemble the counter shaft and transfer the parts to the TwistGear TM counter shaft. Note that the TwistGear TM counter shaft assembles in different order than the OEM counter shaft. Two washers are required in the position as shown in figure 1 (see arrow) before the retainer ring is installed. The second washer is included in the kit.

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TOYOTA TACOMA TRANSMISSION TO ATLAS TRANSFER CASE

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 20-09-2011

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Remove the stock transfer case from the stock tailhousing adapter. The stock tailhousing is retained along with the stock rubber crossmember support. Once the transfer case is removed, you’ll see a seal located in the stock tailhousing. This seal must be removed and discarded. Some tailhousings also had a bearing which also must be removed. Install the new oil seal into the large end of the seal adapter. The sealing lip should be facing down. The small end of the seal adapter has the same O.D. (outside diameter) as the old seal that was just removed from the stock tailhousing. The seal adapter is a press-fit into the stock tail and should now be installed. The kit comes with a new spud shaft which fits over the stock Toyota transmission 26 spline output shaft. This spud shaft has a Jeep 23 male spline on the opposite side which fits into a standard 23 spline Atlas case. When installing the spud shaft into the Toyota transmission, the spud shaft does not seal onto the new seal just previously installed. The seal contacts seal off of the Atlas input shaft. The adapter plate should now be installed onto the Atlas transfer case. The adapter plate indexes off of the Atlas front retainer

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1937-1984 Big Twins BRUTE II EXTREME BELT DRIVES INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 27-10-2010

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Remove the outer primary cover. Remove the front pulley, chain, compensator & chain adjuster Remove oil lines to primary and plug or clamp to prevent leakage. Cut the chain oiler hose 3 inches from the oil pump and permanently plug. All belts must be run dry without lubrication of any kind. Therefore, remove all oil from inside the primary covers. The spacer behind the front pulley should be removed prior to installing the belt drive. This spacer may or may not be required to correctly align the pulleys. If a spacer is needed for alignment, various sizes are available from your local Primo Belt Drives dealer (part number PX-1 =package of 6 various sizes). Install the front pulley supplied in the kit. Loop the belt around both pulleys to insure that you have the proper belt for your pulleys, then gently push the unit into place. Use the supplied washer & nut on the motor shaft. Torque the motor nut to 80-100 foot pounds. If installing a PC-1000-Aremove the clutch hub & clutch basket. On tapered shaft models check the fit on the shaft & the fit of the keyway in the hub. Install the key in the mainshaft, making sure it is firmly seated (use of super glue or threadlock in the keyway is helpful to keep the key from sliding out of the keyway during clutch installation). Tighten the clutch hub nut(left-hand thread) to 60-90 foot pounds. 1 After installing and adjusting clutch, track the belt by turning the pulleys. If needed use a straight edge between the front and rear pulleys to check alignment. Improper alignment of the pulleys will result in reduced belt life. Spacing the motor pulley outward will cause the belt to track towards the outer primary cover. If spaced too far out the belt will rub on the inside of the clutch shell. Before installing the primary cover be sure that everything inside clears both the outer and inner covers. In some cases a small amount of metal may need to be removed from one or more of the bosses on the inner or outer primary cover.

Express ATVS -250cc Cobra Setup/ Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Unpacking your Cobra Installing the front shock Installing the front tires Installing rear shocks Installing the rear tires Installing seats and harnesses Steering wheel installation Roll cage installation Safety checks / Adjustments General maintenance Unpacking your Cobra First off you should pull the carton off from your new 250 Cobra cart. Inspect the cart thoroughly to make sure that your new Cobra has not been heavily damaged. You will notice that the product has a metal frame holding it in place; you may want to start removing bolts from the shipping steel frame. The next step is to remove the metal frame and lift it off of the cart. Remove any of the metal frame that may afford resistance when working on the cart it self. Be careful the metal frame may be heavy and sharp. Now would also be a good time to inspect your Cobra a little more thoroughly. In the box with the Cobra you should have found a box containing miscellaneous hardware. Installing the front shock Using some of the bolts you found in your box, install the front shocks sliding the bolt through the brackets and tighten the nut down. Next, you will need to place the ball head into the turning arm, then tighten the castle nut and insert a cotter pin so that the castle nut doesn’t loosen and become a hazard. Installing the front tires
Find the front tires and place them on the front hub and place the lug nuts on the studs. Tighten them down. Make sure that all of the lug nuts are on tightly. Installing the rear shocks Moving to the rear of the Cobra you will notice the rear shocks are not inserted. Place the rear shocks into the bracket on the rear of the Cobra. Slide one of the provided bolts through the bracket and shock eyelet and tighten the bolt down. Installing the rear tires Now that the shocks have been placed properly you can install the rear tires, place the tires onto the axle then place the rear rim lined up onto the axle and tighten the provided castle nut down. Place the cotter pin through the axle and bend off to the side. This is so the castle nut does not loosen under load. Installing the seats and harnesses
(The arrow points to an example of where the seat bolts mount) Find the two racing seats shipped in the box with the Cobra. You will need to affix them to the frame by sliding the bolts up through the bottom of the frame. This can be tricky so have patience. Once both seats have been placed in the cart and tightened find the harnesses. Once found the harnesses mount to a bracket behind the seats. Place a bolt through the bracket and bolt the harnesses down tightly. Installing the steering wheel Find the steering wheel and place it onto the steering wheel mount. Grab the six small screws and place them through the steering wheel and mount, tighten them down but also make sure the top of the wheel is facing up. Installing the roll cage

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Harley-Davidson Softail Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-12-2010

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the fasteners that secure the seat. Remove seat. 6. Disconnect negative Battery Terminal. 7. Remove the Saddle Bags. And their hardware. If equipped. 8. Loosen Muffler Clamp on both Mufflers and other attaching hardware. Remove and discard both Mufflers. 9. Loosen the 4 exhaust stud nuts and save. Remove and discard head pipes and exhaust gaskets. 10. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness. 11. Remove any fasteners from Electrical Box. 12. Remove and discard Rear Fender, Fender Support and fasteners. NOTE: 2008-Current various models. Remove ECM from Fender and save nuts. 13. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 14. Un-clamp Rear Brake Line from the frame and Rear Fork. 15. Remove and discard both Banjo Bolts and Crush Washers from the Rear Brake Caliper and the Rear Brake Master Cylinder. 16. Remove Brake Light Switch from the Brake line, Save for reassembly. 17. Remove the Torx screw from the Brake Line bracket, Save the Torx screw for reassembly. 18. Remove and Discard Brake Line. 19. If Lower Controls option. Remove and Discard right and left floorboards/foot pegs, brake pedal, shifter, and shift linkage. Remove and Discard Passenger Foot pegs or Floorboards and their mounts. Then skip to step 24. 20. If Lower Controls Not purchased. Continue. 21. Remove acorn nut from Shift Linkage. 22. Remove 3 fasteners from Drivers Floorboard and remove. 23. Remove and discard Jiffy Stand. 24. Remove the Primary Cover by first removing the top and rear inspection cover screws. 25. Continue by removing remaining fasteners. 14 total. 26. Remove and discard Primary Cover Gasket. 27. Clean residual gasket material from both surfaces. 28. Loosen the Top Center Nut on the Primary Chain Adjuster. Lower the Primary Chain Adjuster until it rests flat on the Inner Primary Cover. 29. Remove the Clutch Lifter Retaining Ring from the Clutch Basket. Remove Clutch Lifter Assembly. 30. Using the Primary Drive Locking Tool. Loosen the Compensating Sprocket Nut. 31. Using the Primary Drive Locking Tool. Loosen the Clutch Hub Main shaft Nut. WARNING: This nut is LEFT HAND threaded. 32. Remove the Primary Drive Locking Tool, Compensating Sprocket Nut, and Clutch Hub Main shaft Nut. 33. Remove the Sprocket cover and Sliding Cam from the Crank Shaft Extension. 34. Remove the Clutch Assembly, Primary Chain, Compensating Sprocket, and Crank Shaft Extension in one assembly.

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Honda 400EX Hub installation instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 20-12-2011

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Remove all contents from its packaging and verify that all parts are present and free from damage. You should have the following items: (2) wheel hubs (2) smaller tapered bearings (2) large tapered bearings (2) wheel bearing nuts (2) dust caps (2) inner bearing seals (6) M3 x .5 screws (2) cotter pins (2) inner bearing spacers 2. Completely remove the old hubs from your quad and clean the spindle and the surrounding areas. It is very important to keep the new bearings and seals clean during installation for long life. Be sure to remove the factory inner bearing spacers from the spindle and discard. They will not be used in re-assembly. 3. Pack your new Timken tapered wheel bearings with a liberal amount of high quality wheel bearing grease. A wheel bearing packer works best, however you can accomplish the task by placing the grease in the palm of your hand and manually working it in between the bearing rollers. We also recommend that you pack the area between the bearing races in the hub with grease for additional lubrication and protection against moisture. 4. Place the large wheel bearing (inner) into the hub and install the inner seal. The seal should bottom out against the step in the bore and the face should be flush with the hub. 5. Remove the brake rotors from your old hubs. Re-install the rotors on your new hubs and be sure to use medium strength Loctite on the threads. 6. Apply a light film of grease or oil to the large diameter of the spindle stud. Install the new o-ringed bearing spacer onto the spindle. 7. Apply a thin film of grease to the seal surface on the bearing spacer and the inside diameter of the seal to prevent the seal from running dry. Install the hub onto the spindle and slide the outer bearing over the spindle and install the new bearing nut furnished with your hubs. Do not use the factory nut or washer. 8. SETTING THE BEARING PRELOAD: It is first necessary to seat the bearing before setting the preload. This aligns the rollers and prevents the bearings from loosening after a short period of use. To seat the bearing, tighten the spindle nut while you rotate the hub until the hub becomes difficult to spin. With the bearing now seated, you must set the bearing preload. Preload means placing a small amount of force against the bearings to remove any clearance between the bearing race and the rollers. This is done by backing the nut off completely and re-tightening it with your fingers. Do not rotate the hub while setting the preload . If a hole in the spindle is not accessible for installation of the cotter pin, adjust the nut tighter to bring a hole into alignment. Install the cotter pin and bend the pin around the outside of the nut. Do not attempt to bend the pin toward you (over the end of the spindle) or it may rub on the inside of the dust cap.

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