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HARLEY DAVIDSON SCREAMIN' EAGLE STREET PERFORMANCE TOURING END CAP MUFFLER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 14-04-2011

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PRODUCT INFORMATION Noise Emission Warranty Harley-Davidson warrants that these mufflers, at the time of sale, meet all applicable United States E.P.A. Federal noise and Emissions standards. This warranty extends to the first person who buys these mufflers for proposes other than resale, and to all subsequent buyers. Warranty claims should be directed to an authorized Harley-Davidson Dealer. Tampering Prohibition Federal law prohibits any modification to this exhaust system which causes the motorcycle to exceed the Federal noise standard. Use of the motorcycle with such a modified exhaust system is also prohibited. NOTE This product should be checked for repair or replacement if the motorcycle noise has increased significantly through use. Otherwise, the owner may become subject to penalties under state and local ordinances. INSTALLATION NOTE Install end caps on mufflers before installing mufflers on vehicle. Install Direct Bolt-On End Caps 1. See Figure 1. Install end cap (2) to muffler (3) with four socket head cap screws (1). Tighten to 82-86 in-lbs (9.3- 9.7 Nm) . 2. Repeat for opposite side muffler. 3 2 1 is05426 1. Socket head screw (4) 2. End cap 3. Muffler Figure 1. Install End Cap on Muffler Install Attachment Ring End Caps 1. See Figure 2. Slide the three U-nuts (2) onto the bosses of the end cap attachment ring cup on the muffler. 2. Install attachment ring (1) to muffler with four socket head cap screws (3). Locate the attachment ring with a U-nut in the 12 o’clock position. Tighten to 82-86 in-lbs (9.3-9.7 Nm) . 3. Slide end cap (5) onto muffler body being careful to align holes in end cap with U-nuts. 4. Install the three countersunk screws (4) and tighten screws securely. 5. Repeat for opposite side muffler

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HAR:EY DAVIDSON FLHR/C/S (Road King) FRONT END LOWERING KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-03-2011

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Removal (Left and Right Forks) 1. Place suitable blocking under frame to raise front wheel several inches off the floor. For best results, use a hydraulic center stand on a level surface. 2. Refer to Touring Model Service Manual and remove front wheel, fender and brakes. 3. Refer to Touring Model Service Manual and remove headlamp nacelle. 4. Loosen fork cap bolt from fork tube plug at top of fork tube, but do not remove. 5. See Figure 1. Standing at front of vehicle, loosen pinch bolt (with lockwasher) on right side of lower fork bracket, but do not remove. 6. Spray glass cleaner on fork tube above the rubber fork stop. After lubricating surfaces, move fork stop up fork tube until it contacts bottom of upper fork bracket. 7. Holding fork slider to prevent fork from dropping, remove fork cap bolt from fork tube plug. Slide fork tube down and out of upper fork bracket, fork stop, lower fork bracket and slider cover. 1 WARNING 1 WARNING 1 WARNING 1 of 5 ® Kit Number 54614-05 Figure 1. Loosen Pinch Bolt on Lower Fork Bracket i04808 1 Fork cap bolt 2 Fork stop 3 Pinch bolt 8. Thread fork cap bolt back into fork tube plug to prevent loss of oil while handling. 9. Move forks to bench area. Place suitable drain pan on floor beneath vise. 10. Repeat Steps 2-6 to remove left fork. Left And Right Fork-Disassembly 1. Remove nuts, lockwashers, flat washers and axle holder from studs at end of fork slider. 2. See Figure 2. Obtain FORK TUBE HOLDER (Part Number HD-41177) and proceed as follows: a. Clamp end of tool in vise in a horizontal position with plastic knobs facing toward you. b. See Figure 3. With the fork cap bolt topside, clamp fork tube between rubber pads on inboard side of tool. Tighten knobs until fork tube is securely held. 3. Remove fork cap bolt from fork tube plug. Remove quad ring seal. Save bolt but discard quad ring seal. 4. Using wrench flat, slowly unthread fork tube plug from fork tube. Be aware that fork tube plug is under spring pressure, so have a firm grasp on plug as the last thread is turned. 5. Remove fork spring from fork tube. 6. Remove fork assembly from fork tube holder. 7. Turning fork upside down, drain fork oil into drain pan. For best results, slowly pump fork tube and slider at least 10 times. 8. Install fork spring back into fork tube. 9. Place a shop rag on the floor, and turning fork assembly upside down, press end of spring against rag. While compressing spring to prevent rotation of damper tube, remove 6mm screw from end of fork slider. Use air impact wrench for best results. 10. Remove and discard fork spring. 11. Remove and discard damper tube. 12. Remove wear ring and rebound spring. Discard rebound spring. Do not expand or stretch retaining clip to remove from fork tube or clip may become bent or distorted. 13. Using pick tool, remove retaining clip between fork slider and fork tube. 14. Remove fork tube from fork slider. NOTE To overcome any resistance, use the fork tube as a slide hammer, that is, first push fork tube into fork slider and then pull it outward with a moderate amount of force. Repeat this sequence until fork tube separates from fork slider. 15. Slide fork oil seal, slider spacer and slider bushing off end of fork tube. Discard fork oil seal and slider bushing. 16. Remove the lower stop. Right and Left Fork-Assembly Exercise caution to avoid scratching or nicking fork tube. Damaging tube can result in fork oil leaks after assembly. 1. See Service Parts Illustration. Obtain new Damper Tube (Item 7, Part Number 46532-04) from kit. Obtain new Rebound Spring (Item 8, Part Number 46273-02) from kit and install on opposite end. Install wear ring removed in step 12. 2. With the wear ring topside, slide new damper tube into fork tube, so that tube end drops through hole at bottom of fork tube. Install lower stop at end of damper tube. 3. Install fork slider in fork tube holder. Slide fork tube into fork slider. 4. If necessary, obtain new slider bushing (14) (Part Number 45940-84, not included). Coat slider bushing ID with clean fork oil. Slide slider bushing down fork tube. 5. Slide slider spacer down fork tube until it contacts slider bushing.

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Express ATVS -250cc Cobra Setup/ Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Unpacking your Cobra Installing the front shock Installing the front tires Installing rear shocks Installing the rear tires Installing seats and harnesses Steering wheel installation Roll cage installation Safety checks / Adjustments General maintenance Unpacking your Cobra First off you should pull the carton off from your new 250 Cobra cart. Inspect the cart thoroughly to make sure that your new Cobra has not been heavily damaged. You will notice that the product has a metal frame holding it in place; you may want to start removing bolts from the shipping steel frame. The next step is to remove the metal frame and lift it off of the cart. Remove any of the metal frame that may afford resistance when working on the cart it self. Be careful the metal frame may be heavy and sharp. Now would also be a good time to inspect your Cobra a little more thoroughly. In the box with the Cobra you should have found a box containing miscellaneous hardware. Installing the front shock Using some of the bolts you found in your box, install the front shocks sliding the bolt through the brackets and tighten the nut down. Next, you will need to place the ball head into the turning arm, then tighten the castle nut and insert a cotter pin so that the castle nut doesn’t loosen and become a hazard. Installing the front tires
Find the front tires and place them on the front hub and place the lug nuts on the studs. Tighten them down. Make sure that all of the lug nuts are on tightly. Installing the rear shocks Moving to the rear of the Cobra you will notice the rear shocks are not inserted. Place the rear shocks into the bracket on the rear of the Cobra. Slide one of the provided bolts through the bracket and shock eyelet and tighten the bolt down. Installing the rear tires Now that the shocks have been placed properly you can install the rear tires, place the tires onto the axle then place the rear rim lined up onto the axle and tighten the provided castle nut down. Place the cotter pin through the axle and bend off to the side. This is so the castle nut does not loosen under load. Installing the seats and harnesses
(The arrow points to an example of where the seat bolts mount) Find the two racing seats shipped in the box with the Cobra. You will need to affix them to the frame by sliding the bolts up through the bottom of the frame. This can be tricky so have patience. Once both seats have been placed in the cart and tightened find the harnesses. Once found the harnesses mount to a bracket behind the seats. Place a bolt through the bracket and bolt the harnesses down tightly. Installing the steering wheel Find the steering wheel and place it onto the steering wheel mount. Grab the six small screws and place them through the steering wheel and mount, tighten them down but also make sure the top of the wheel is facing up. Installing the roll cage

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Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom and Classic cruisers Floorboard/ Footpeg Extension Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.

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Honda GL1000/1100 starter motor Removal/ Over haul Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 08-04-2011

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1. Remove the three long bolts that hold the sections together and separate them. Be careful as there are a series of flat thrust washers on each end of the armature (located in the middle section). 2. The end cap basically performs no function other than to cover the brush plate and commutator area as well as center the armature shaft in a pressed in bushing located in the end of the cap. 3. The drive end contains the reduction gearing and if need be, can be disassembled to replace the bearing. This is extremely unlikely. The shaft should turn freely and normally only requires a cleaning and grease application. If the bearing in fact needs replacing, simply remove the “C” clips on either end, drive out the bearing and reinstall with an appropriate size replacement. Any decent auto parts / industrial supply should be able to supply the correct bearing. 4. Remove the brush plate from the end of the center section by removing the screw at the one brush connection. Before removing the brushes, note that one of them has an insulating sleeve over the braided wire. The replacement must go in the same brush holder. Remove the brushes and replace if necessary and clean the brush plate. ** Brake Cleaner is a good general cleaner for this entire job. 5. Remove the thrust washers from brush plate end of the armature. Count them and ensure they go back on the correct way. 6. The end of the center section that had the drive end on it has a circular plate covering it with a short splined shaft protruding through the plate. Drive the plate out by tapping the opposite end of the section on the shaft – just lightly with a rubber hammer or piece of wood to protect the shaft. Once the plate is out, remove the armature from the section. You will find more thrust washers at this end. Make sure they go back on correctly. 7. In the center of the center section there are four large Philips screws. These hold in the field coils found within the housing. Using an “impact driver”, loosen the four screws that go around the circumference of the center section and remove them. Remove the 10mm nut for the battery connection and the accompanying fiber insulating washers. With the screws and nut removed, the entire field coil assembly should withdraw entirely from the housing. There will be four (4) metal plates that the screws mounted into come falling out. They are easily replaced into the field coils when you slide it back into the housing. Do not be alarmed that you suddenly have four loose metal parts. 8. With everything out of the housing, thoroughly clean everything using the Brake Cleaner. Although the cleaner will dry without leaving a film, it is suggested that the components be dried with compressed air. 9. Get some extremely fine steel wool (“000″ of even “0000″ is better) and gently clean the metal surfaces or bars of the armature and the commutator. Blow with compressed air. 10. Using a volt/ohmeter, test for continuity between pairs of armature bars (the long ones). There should be continuity between the pairs around the entire circumference.

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Indian Rocker Arm End Play Rear Cylinder/ Front Cylinder Installation

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Filed Under (Indian) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Rear Cylinder 1Rotate the engine so that the rear piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC), compression stroke, so no load is on the valves. 2Using a 3/16″ allen wrench, remove the four screws securing the rear cylinder rocker cover. 3Remove the cover and inspect both O-ring seals. Discard if damaged or worn. 4Push both rocker arms towards the valve end support bracket (A) and using a feeler gauge check the gap between the rocker arms and the pushrod end support bracket (B). NOTE: The Rocker arm end play specification should be between 0.003″ to 0.012″. 5 Compare the measurement to the specification an determine whether adjustment is necessary. If the end play is within specification, adjustment will not be required. Refit the rocker cover (instructions 14 to 15) and carry out the same inspection on the front cylinder . If the measurement is outside the specification, adjustment will be required and shimming will be necessary (follow the remainder of these instructions). Adjustment 6Using a 1/4″ allen wrench remove the 4 screws securing the rocker shaft assembly.Refit the LH support bracket and reposition the complete assembly on the rocker base. Make sure that the three dowels are in place and the slots in the rocker shafts are properly aligned with the mounting screw holes in the RH support bracket. 11Clean the threads of the 4 support bracket screws and apply Blue Loctite to the first 4 threads. 12Fit the 1-3/4″ screws into the LH support bracket (A) and the 2″ screws to the RH bracket (B). Torque all screws in cross pattern to 16-20 foot-pounds. CAUTION: The rear piston must be at TDC, compression stroke, when tightening the support bracket screws. 13Re-check the rocker end play to ensure it is within specifica- tion. 13Lubricate the two O-rings with clean engine oil and refit them in the grooves in the rocker base. 14Refit the rocker cover.

Triumph Center Mount Oil Pressure Gauge with active oil light Installation

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Remove the two hex head screws and spacers that secure the handlebars. Attach the oil pressure mounting bracket using the bolts removed earlier. It is not necessary to use the spacers as the bracket is the same thickness as the spacers that were removed. Make sure the oil pressure gauge bracket is clamped securely so that the handlebars cannot rotate. This part of the assembly is complete. Do not tighten the fitting mounted on the far side of the Swivel body. This fitting is designed to rotate and is sealed in place with Loctite 242 thread sealant. Over tightening will shear the threads resulting in destruction of the fitting. Remove oil pressure sending unit. Sit the copper crush washer aside for future use. The Swivel and Swivel Adaptor are supplied assembled. Remove the plug from the rear of the Swivel. Slip the crush washer removed earlier over the end of the Adaptor. There is an ‘O’-ring seal between the Adaptor and the Swivel, leaving the two assembled will prevent damage to the seal. Thread the Adaptor, with Swivel still attached, into the port from where the original sending unit was removed. With the use of a 5/32″ Allan wrench, reach inside the Swivel and tighten the Swivel against the Adaptor. Install the original oil pressure sending unit in the top port as shown using the new copper crush washer supplied. Use a wrench on both the Swivel and the original oil pressure sending unit to prevent imparting stress on the Adaptor to Swivel junction. Reinstall the 1/8 NPT plug in the end of the Swivel using with the use of a 3/16″ Allan wrench. Use Loctite 242 or equivalent semi-permanent thread sealant at this junction. Do not over tighten. Use a 3/16″ Allan wrench on the plug and an open end wrench on the Swivel to prevent imparting stress on the Adaptor to Swivel junction. Next, attach one end of the oil pressure line to the swivel fitting (located far side) by pushing the end of the tubing into the hole at the end of the fitting. FYI: these fittings are quick disconnect and self-clinching. They need only to be pushed in to connect. They will not slip out unless the ferrule at the end of the fitting is pushed back away from the tubing as the tubing is pulled from the fitting. Routing: Next, route the other end of the tube up along the frame and in front of the steering head over to the fitting in the gauge body. Avoid the exhaust pipes when routing the tubing. Push the end of the tube into the gauge fitting as was done at the swivel fitting at the other end of the tube. The tubing can be removed and cut to the length required by your routing. Make sure there is enough service loop remaining so

HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL SPRINGER Dual Slip-On Exhaust System Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 22-12-2010

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REMOVING THE STOCK MUFFLERS 1. Loosen the bolt on the pinch clamp at the front end of each muffler. 2. Remove the two bolts that mount the muffler to the mounting bar. Repeat this step on the opposite muffler. 3. Remove the stock mufflers and set them aside. Note: It may be necessary to use a penetrating lubricant to loosen the mufflers from the head pipes. INSTALLING YOUR NEW VANCE & HINES SLIP-ON EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Remove the two 5/16″ flanged head bolts from the bracket that is welded to the backside of each muffler. Attach one of the mounting brackets (supplied) to each muffler, using two of the 5/16″ flanged head bolts (removed earlier), leaving them loose at this time. When the bracket is mounted correctly on the muffler, the single hole end should point down when the muffler is mounted to the bike. 2. Be sure there is a muffler clamp (supplied) over the front (notched end) of each muffler. 3. Slip the muffler onto the stock head pipe, mount the muffler to the rear most hole of the stock mounting bar, using one of the stock bolts and tighten. Repeat this step on the opposite muffler. Note: When installed correctly, the Vance & Hines logo on the muffler should face outwards. 4. Tighten the two muffler clamps. 5. Tighten the two 5/16″ flange bolts on each muffler bracket. 6. Wipe any finger prints or oil off any chrome parts of the exhaust system before starting the motorcycle. 7. Be sure to tighten all hardware before starting your motorcycle. RE-JETTING INSTRUCTIONS Re-jetting the carburetor will result in realizing the “full” potential of this performance exhaust system. Vance & Hines offers jet kits for most applications

HARLEY DAVIDSON DYNA AND SPORTSTER Chrome Front Wheel Spacers INSTALLATION ISNTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Block motorcycle underneath frame so front wheel is raised off the ground. 2. See Figure 1. Remove the upper (1) and lower (2) brake caliper mounting bolts and brake caliper(s) (3). Support caliper(s) using a rubber bungee cord. Be careful not to scratch fender paint. NOTES Do not operate front brake lever with the front wheel removed or the caliper piston may be forced out of piston bores. Reseating the piston requires disassembly of the caliper. Prior to removal, make note of existing left and right spacer location. The new spacers will be installed in the locations. 3. See Figure 3. On left side of wheel, remove axle nut (D), lockwasher (E) and washer (F). Perform the following: 4. Sportster and Dyna (except FXDWG) See Figure 2. Loosen the pinch bolt nut (1) and pull the the axle (2) free. Remove wheel and spacers. Leave bearing(s) in place. Discard spacers. 3 1 2 is04469 1. Brake caliper mounting bolt, long (top) 2. Brake caliper mounting bolt, short (bottom) 3. Brake caliper Figure 1. Caliper Mounting Bolts (Left Side) Dyna and Sportster 3 1 2 is04470 1. Pinch bolt nut 2. Axle 3. Pinch bolt Figure 2. Front Wheel Mounting (Dyna and Sportster Except FXDWG-Right Side) 5. See Figure 3. Obtain the new right (1) and left (2) chrome spacers from kit and install. 6. Apply a light coat of ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT (Harley- Davidson Part Number 98960-97) to the axle.
7. Place wheel between sliders and install axle. Verify that axle spacers on right and left side are properly installed. 8. See Figure 3. Install the washer (F), lockwasher (E) and nut (D) onto threaded end of axle (A). 9. In order to properly align the front fork, perform the fol- lowing: a. On the right side of the wheel, insert a 7/16 inch drill bit through the hole in the axle. While holding axle stationary, tighten axle nut to 50-55 ft-lbs (61.0-74.6 Nm) . b. Pull fork leg so that it just contacts drill bit. Tighten according to the following: c. Refer to Figure 2. Tighten the Axle Pinch Bolt Nut to 25-30 ft-lbs (33.9-40.7 Nm) . d. Remove drill bit from axle hole. 10. Follow instructions in Service Manual and install brake caliper to the sliders noting the following: •Loosely install long bolt to the top hole on fork leg. Install the short mounting bolt to the bottom hole and tighten to 28-38 ft-lb (38.0-51.5 Nm) . •Final tighten top bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.0-51.5 Nm) . 11. Repeat Step 10 to install brake caliper on opposite side of wheel. After servicing brakes and before moving motorcycle, pump brakes to build brake system pressure. Insufficient pressure can adversely affect brake performance, which could result in death or serious injury. (00279a) 12. Pump brake lever to move pistons out until they contact both brake pads. Verify piston location against pads

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Harley davidson Sportster Custom Straightshot Exhaust System REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-12-2010

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REMOVING THE STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Loosen the heat shield clamps on both front and rear exhaust pipes. 2. Remove the two mounting nuts from each head pipe, located at the cylinder head. 3. Remove the nut that mounts the front muffler to the engine, located below the rear brake master cylinder. 4. Remove the bolt that mounts the rear muffler to the mounting bar. 5. Remove the entire exhaust system and set it aside. 6. Carefully remove the flanges and circlips from the stock exhaust system using snapring pliers. Note: If circlips look bent or twisted replace them with new circlips . INSTALLING YOUR NEW VANCE & HINES EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Vance and Hines recommends you replace your exhaust gaskets with Sceamin’ Eagle gaskets part number 17048-98. 2. Install the circlips and flanges from the stock system on to both of the new head pipes. 3. Unscrew all of the hose clamps (supplied) until they are completely loose. Mark the top edge of both heat shields with the location of the mounting clips that are welded to the backside. Position the front heat shield over the head pipe and feed the tail end of the hose clamps into the clips. Be sure that each hose clamp is engaged with both clips. Repeat this step with the rear heat shield. Note: The screw end of the hose clamp should be accessible, but not visible when pipe is mounted on the bike. 4. Install the front head pipe using the stock nuts, do not tighten at this time. 5. Install the rear head pipe using the stock nuts, do not tighten at this time. 6. Install one muffler clamp (supplied) over the inlet (notched end) of each muffler. 7. Identify the front and rear muffler mounting brackets. The front bracket is stamped with the number 305 and the rear muffler bracket is stamped 213 . 8. Install the front muffler mounting bracket to the stud on the engine (where the stock muffler mounted) and fasten using the stock nut (leave loose at this time). The bracket will bend inward towards the center of the motorcycle when installed correctly. Note: You may need to move the wires and hoses on the lower frame rail to decrease the possibility of them chaffing on the bracket bolts. 9. Slip one of the mufflers onto the front head pipe. Slide one dog bone shaped nut plate (supplied) under the bracket that is welded to the backside of the muffler. Attach the muffler to the mounting bracket using the 5/16″ flange head bolts (supplied) leave them loose at this time. 10. Attach the rear mounting bracket to the rear muffler. Slide one dog bone shaped nut plate (supplied) under the bracket that is welded to the backside of the muffler. Attach the bracket to the muffler using two of the 5/16″ flange head bolts (supplied), leave them loose at this time. Note: The single hole in the bracket will point downward and slightly forward when installed correctly

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