installing timing chain on 2008 yahama rhino 700

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MOTORCYCLE ROLLER CHAIN Maintenance and Lubrication

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-11-2010

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Cleaning and Relubrication Perhaps the largest contributor to shortened chain life is inadequate lubrica- tion. All working parts of a chain should be lubricated uniformly. The use of the highest viscosity oil that allows for flow between the link plates and coats pin-bushing areas will normally provide the greatest wear resistance. Apply oil to the upper edges of link plates. This allows for the greatest access of oil to pin-bushing joints. For open drives, excess lubrication on outer chain surfaces should be removed, since it will either be thrown off during operation or serve to collect foreign materials. If foreign objects or surplus lubrication accumulates on chain surfaces to the extent of making re-lubrication of the joints impossible, the chain must be cleaned. Standard roller chains may be cleaned by washing in kerosene or any other good petroleum-based solvent. WARNING: These solvents are flammable. Agitate the chain to assure penetration of the solvent and a thorough flushing of the pin-bushing areas. Drain off excess solvent and inspect bushings and pins for wear. Replace the chain if wear is excessive or parts are fractured or missing. O-ring chains may be cleaned externallyby washing in kerosene. Do not use any other cleaning agent or the O-rings may be damaged. When cleaning O- ring chain, clean only the external areas of the chain. Do not attempt to force kerosene into the pin-bush cavity. Do not try to repair a worn-out chain by replacing individual links. The pitch of the new links will be shorter and will most likely result in chain fatigue failure and/or severe sprocket damage. For chains which are still usable, soak them in SAE 40 or 50 automotive engine oil (without additives). Flexing the chain in oil will assure greater penetration of lubricant. Inspect and clean sprockets. If sprockets are worn or damaged, they should be replaced.Installing new chain on worn out sprockets will significantly shorten the chain’s service life. WARNING: always wear eye protection when assembling or disassembling chain

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Kawasaki KVF650/ 700, KSV 700 Camshaft Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-04-2012

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Liberally apply assembly lube to every surface of the camshaft. Install the camshaft into the cylinder head (the lobes should be pointed down) and align the decompressor shaft dowels with the weight arms. Install one of the camshaft sprocket holder bolts and tighten to less than finger tight, you should be able to move the camshaft very slightly back and forth, roll the crank over until the other bolt hole is exposed and insert the sprocket bolt and tighten to less than finger tight. Install the cam chain tensioner assembly, do not install the spring, spring dowel, washer, and bolt. Using the spring from the cam chain tensioner very slowly push the tensioner shaft in until the cam chain slack has just been taken out, this is witnessed by the very slight lifting of the opposite end of the cam out of the cylinder head cam journal, do not over tighten the cam chain at this point, if you do, remove the tensioner assembly and retract the plunger again and start over. (If it stays too tight it will stretch the cam chain prematurely and cause cam sprocket damage when the engine is assembled) Roll the camshaft toward the back of the machine (clockwise) loading the sprocket bolts against the back of the sprocket bolt holes, while holding the camshaft in that direction, tighten the sprocket mounting bolt to 14 ft/lb of torque. Rotate the engine in the opposite direction that you rotated it earlier and align the TDC mark, tighten the other sprocket-mounting bolt to 14 ft/lb of torque. Verify the cam timing and crankshaft TDC marks are in alignment

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Yamaha YZ 250F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 30-12-2011

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Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the intake camshaft cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Fit the half moon shaped retainers in the grooves of the Hot Cams camshaft bearings to ensure good fit, set retainers aside for the time. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets, bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head, and pack some in the camshaft bearings. Set the exhaust cam into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. The cam chain pulls the camshaft sprockets in a counter clockwise direction and the slack of the chain must be kept on the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. The exhaust cam has two timing marks on it. When correctly installed one mark will be at the 9 o’clock position and the other mark will be at the 12 o’clock position. When correctly timed the mark at 9 o’clock will be aligned with the valve cover gasket surface. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. The intake cam has two timing marks also. One at 12 o’clock and the other at 3 o’clock. When both cams are installed correctly, the valve cover gasket surface will form a straight line through the exhaust timing mark at 9 o’clock and the intake timing mark at 3 o’clock

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Harley-Davidson CHAIN DRIVE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-04-2012

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1) Assemble & install the chain tensioner assembly over the primary chain as shown in figure 1. 2) Install the compensator sprocket with extender & spacer (numbers 5, 6, & 7, FIG 2)(#7 is not included in this kit), primary chain, chain tensioner, and clutch basket simultaneously onto the motor drive shaft & transmission main shaft. Rotate the chain drive slightly as needed to allow the splines to line-up. 3) Install the chain tensioner nut loosely on the chain tensioner bolt. 4) Install the sliding cam onto the compensator sprocket, & slide the compensating sprocket cover-assembly (#3) over the cam. 5) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “Red” thread-lock on the threads of the motor drive shaft, & install the motor nut loosely with the fingers at this time. The hex spacer (#7) and spacer (#2) as seen in fig.2 are not provided in Rivera Engineering’s chain drive kit. These components are required with some applications, and can be purchased from your local Harley-Davidson dealer. FIG 2 6) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “red” thread-lock on the threads of the transmission main-shaft and loosely install the clutch hub nut (left hand threads). 7) Place the HD “Primary Drive Locking Tool” HD-41214 on the primary chain as shown in figure XXX and tighten the motor sprocket nut to 150-165 foot-pounds. 8)Turn the locking tool 180 degrees and move it to the clutch sprocket. Tighten the clutch hub nut to 70-80 foot pounds (left- hand thread). Adjust chain tension so that the top strand has 5/8″- to-7/8″ of up and down play (cold drive train). Tighten the center bolt nut to 21-29 foot pounds of torque.

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2003 – 2008 4Runner AND 2007 – 2008 FJ Cruiser FRONT AND REAR DIFFERENTIAL GEAR OIL SPECIFICATION CHANGE

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 14-11-2011

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75W-85 GL5 synthetic gear oil beginning with the 2008 model year. This new synthetic gear oil is compatible with 2003 – 2007 model year 4Runner and 2007 model year FJ Cruiser differentials. Please refer to the Parts Information section below for information about this gear oil and use this gear oil (or equivalent) when filling front or rear differentials with oil. 2003 – 2008 model year 4Runner vehicles. 2007 – 2008 model year FJ Cruiser vehicles. PREVIOUS PART NUMBER CURRENT PART NUMBER PART NAME TYPE QTY N/A 08885-02606 Toyota Genuine Differential Gear Oil LX 75W-85 API GL-5 SAE 75W-85 LSD As Needed N/A 08885-02506 Toyota Genuine Differential Gear Oil LT 75W-85 API GL-5 SAE 75W-85 w/o LSD As Needed Refer to the diagram below to identify if LSD or non-LSD gear oil is used on the vehicle. For applicable vehicles, there is a caution label above the filler plug, as shown below

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ULTIMA IGNITION MODULE AND KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL FOR HARLEY DAVIDSON

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-03-2011

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Disconnect battery. 2. Mark location of timing plate in relation to inside of cam cover. This will give a starting point for timing on new module. Remove old ignition if applicable (see manual) Clymer, Haynes. 3. If your bike is not equipped with timing rotor M/W# 53-528 OEM#32402-83 you must buy one (included in kit). Also a single fire coil is needed (included in kit) M/W# 53-632. Any single fire coil rated 2-4 ohms can be used. NO SOLID CORE PLUG WIRES (copper, silver) they will damage the unit. 4. Install module: helpful hints, early model nose cones, i.e. Shovel Heads, the hole for the wire may need to be drilled out. Align with previously scripted mark for timing. Use lockwashers for stand offs for correct clearance of cover plate. Run wire loom. 5. Connect wires, see wiring diagram. Tape unused wires, green or brown. 12v to tach (brown) will damage module. Set timing. 1996 and later should not be timed 20˚ BTDC as the OEM module, but at 35˚ BTDC. Use this mark when using timing light. If VOESswitch is not used you must ground VOES wire (green) while timing. Refer to manual for correct identification of timing marks. At start up and timing, set spark advance in middle position. FUNCTION SWITCHES LED timing indicator light: When out, shows TDC. When ignition is on, LED will light up. When engine is cranking LED will blink. Electric Start/Kickstart: Set accordingly. VOES/Race mode: VOES switch lets the motor run smoother and improves gas mileage. If you don’t use it or add one tape up green wire and switch to race. VOES switch to use, M/W# 53-652. Spark advance: High compression motors should use race mode and 93 octane or better gas. Changing from VOES to race changes advance curves. Agood rule of thumb is if the engine knocks when throttle is applied in high gear, turn back spark advance curve until it stops engine knock. RPMlimiter: Set at desired RPM to cut engine power. Rear Cylinder: This is for racing and should be set at a dyno. +/-5˚. Rear cylinder timing is achieved through this adjuster. Most should dial to middle setting and leave alone. After all switches are set, install cover with supplied gasket and feel the increased performance of a solid state single fire ignition. Again, we remind you, if you don’t feel confident about installing this unit, let a qualified mechanic do it and be assured you are getting the best performance and gas mileage possible.

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HONDA GL1800 TIMING CHAIN COVER INSPECTION NUT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 28-02-2011

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GL1800 TIMING CHAIN COVER INSPECTION NUT 1. Place bike on center stand. 2. Remove the inspection nut on the bike using a 17mm socket. 3. Remove the rubber o-ring seal from the inspection nut and place on new inspection nut. 4. Install the new inspection nut using the 17mm socket.

Express ATVS -250cc Cobra Setup/ Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Unpacking your Cobra Installing the front shock Installing the front tires Installing rear shocks Installing the rear tires Installing seats and harnesses Steering wheel installation Roll cage installation Safety checks / Adjustments General maintenance Unpacking your Cobra First off you should pull the carton off from your new 250 Cobra cart. Inspect the cart thoroughly to make sure that your new Cobra has not been heavily damaged. You will notice that the product has a metal frame holding it in place; you may want to start removing bolts from the shipping steel frame. The next step is to remove the metal frame and lift it off of the cart. Remove any of the metal frame that may afford resistance when working on the cart it self. Be careful the metal frame may be heavy and sharp. Now would also be a good time to inspect your Cobra a little more thoroughly. In the box with the Cobra you should have found a box containing miscellaneous hardware. Installing the front shock Using some of the bolts you found in your box, install the front shocks sliding the bolt through the brackets and tighten the nut down. Next, you will need to place the ball head into the turning arm, then tighten the castle nut and insert a cotter pin so that the castle nut doesn’t loosen and become a hazard. Installing the front tires
Find the front tires and place them on the front hub and place the lug nuts on the studs. Tighten them down. Make sure that all of the lug nuts are on tightly. Installing the rear shocks Moving to the rear of the Cobra you will notice the rear shocks are not inserted. Place the rear shocks into the bracket on the rear of the Cobra. Slide one of the provided bolts through the bracket and shock eyelet and tighten the bolt down. Installing the rear tires Now that the shocks have been placed properly you can install the rear tires, place the tires onto the axle then place the rear rim lined up onto the axle and tighten the provided castle nut down. Place the cotter pin through the axle and bend off to the side. This is so the castle nut does not loosen under load. Installing the seats and harnesses
(The arrow points to an example of where the seat bolts mount) Find the two racing seats shipped in the box with the Cobra. You will need to affix them to the frame by sliding the bolts up through the bottom of the frame. This can be tricky so have patience. Once both seats have been placed in the cart and tightened find the harnesses. Once found the harnesses mount to a bracket behind the seats. Place a bolt through the bracket and bolt the harnesses down tightly. Installing the steering wheel Find the steering wheel and place it onto the steering wheel mount. Grab the six small screws and place them through the steering wheel and mount, tighten them down but also make sure the top of the wheel is facing up. Installing the roll cage

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Cobra 2008 CX50SR (King) Ignition System installation Manual

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Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Many 2008 Cobra CX50SR (King) customers are experiencing performance issues with their new motorcycles. These issues include cracking/popping noises, degrading performance, and excessively hot exhaust pipes. These issues have been traced back to manufacturing flaws with the new IDM brand ignition system. Because of the time associated with getting these issues sorted out, Cobra is switching production of the 2008 King over to the PVL brand ignition system (the same design used on 2007 model King motorcycles). Customers with 2008 Kings built prior to this date may exchange it for a PVL system at no cost for the hardware. For existing product in the field, Cobra will not support the IDM system until our supplier has their component functioning properly. To install the PVL system on the 2008 King simply remove the old hardware, and bolt on new (an updated Cobra universal puller will be required to remove the ignition rotor). The timing of the new PVL system will have to be set properly during installation

KTM 250F Timing Chain Tensioner Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 19-10-2010

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1) Remove OEM Tensioner: On some models including the 250F motors, it may be necessary to put the engine at TDC before proceeding. Check your manual. This is not the case on the 450 and 530 single cam motors. • Remove the outer cover plug. • Remove the large cover with copper washer. • Using needle nose pliers grab the end of the OEM tensioner and pull it outward. Be careful not to damage the aluminum port or face. • If the O-ring did not come out with the tensioner, carefully reach into the port and remove it without pushing it further into the engine. 2) Install new Tensioner: • To prepare the new tensioner, set the spring aside. Put the new tensioner in the collapsed position. (They are packaged and shipped in the collapsed position.) If you have extended it, rotate the assembly until the “top” on the piston is facing up. Then a light tap from the bottom will release the ratchet. This will now allow the plunger to be retracted to about 1- 13/16″ (46mm). • Install the O-ring over the tensioner body, keeping it outboard of the ridge as shown. • Slide the tensioner assembly with O-ring (without the spring), into the engine port. The end (with the hex-head spring hole) should only protrude from the engine about 1/32″ (.75mm). • Install the cover and tighten. The copper washer should be tight. • Insert the spring through the cover port. As it is slowly inserted, you may hear clicks as it pushes the plunger inward while ratcheting. • Install and tighten the plug against the spring. Note: some 250F engines have a one piece cap. Slide the spring into the tensioner far enough to hold it, then capture it with the cap and tighten. • Start the engine and carefully check for oil leaks. Adjustment will occur internally as it is needed. No further maintenance of the tensioner is required

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