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MOTORCYCLE ROLLER CHAIN Maintenance and Lubrication

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-11-2010

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Cleaning and Relubrication Perhaps the largest contributor to shortened chain life is inadequate lubrica- tion. All working parts of a chain should be lubricated uniformly. The use of the highest viscosity oil that allows for flow between the link plates and coats pin-bushing areas will normally provide the greatest wear resistance. Apply oil to the upper edges of link plates. This allows for the greatest access of oil to pin-bushing joints. For open drives, excess lubrication on outer chain surfaces should be removed, since it will either be thrown off during operation or serve to collect foreign materials. If foreign objects or surplus lubrication accumulates on chain surfaces to the extent of making re-lubrication of the joints impossible, the chain must be cleaned. Standard roller chains may be cleaned by washing in kerosene or any other good petroleum-based solvent. WARNING: These solvents are flammable. Agitate the chain to assure penetration of the solvent and a thorough flushing of the pin-bushing areas. Drain off excess solvent and inspect bushings and pins for wear. Replace the chain if wear is excessive or parts are fractured or missing. O-ring chains may be cleaned externallyby washing in kerosene. Do not use any other cleaning agent or the O-rings may be damaged. When cleaning O- ring chain, clean only the external areas of the chain. Do not attempt to force kerosene into the pin-bush cavity. Do not try to repair a worn-out chain by replacing individual links. The pitch of the new links will be shorter and will most likely result in chain fatigue failure and/or severe sprocket damage. For chains which are still usable, soak them in SAE 40 or 50 automotive engine oil (without additives). Flexing the chain in oil will assure greater penetration of lubricant. Inspect and clean sprockets. If sprockets are worn or damaged, they should be replaced.Installing new chain on worn out sprockets will significantly shorten the chain’s service life. WARNING: always wear eye protection when assembling or disassembling chain

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Harley-Davidson CHAIN DRIVE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-04-2012

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1) Assemble & install the chain tensioner assembly over the primary chain as shown in figure 1. 2) Install the compensator sprocket with extender & spacer (numbers 5, 6, & 7, FIG 2)(#7 is not included in this kit), primary chain, chain tensioner, and clutch basket simultaneously onto the motor drive shaft & transmission main shaft. Rotate the chain drive slightly as needed to allow the splines to line-up. 3) Install the chain tensioner nut loosely on the chain tensioner bolt. 4) Install the sliding cam onto the compensator sprocket, & slide the compensating sprocket cover-assembly (#3) over the cam. 5) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “Red” thread-lock on the threads of the motor drive shaft, & install the motor nut loosely with the fingers at this time. The hex spacer (#7) and spacer (#2) as seen in fig.2 are not provided in Rivera Engineering’s chain drive kit. These components are required with some applications, and can be purchased from your local Harley-Davidson dealer. FIG 2 6) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “red” thread-lock on the threads of the transmission main-shaft and loosely install the clutch hub nut (left hand threads). 7) Place the HD “Primary Drive Locking Tool” HD-41214 on the primary chain as shown in figure XXX and tighten the motor sprocket nut to 150-165 foot-pounds. 8)Turn the locking tool 180 degrees and move it to the clutch sprocket. Tighten the clutch hub nut to 70-80 foot pounds (left- hand thread). Adjust chain tension so that the top strand has 5/8″- to-7/8″ of up and down play (cold drive train). Tighten the center bolt nut to 21-29 foot pounds of torque.

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Yamaha YZ 250F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 30-12-2011

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Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the intake camshaft cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Fit the half moon shaped retainers in the grooves of the Hot Cams camshaft bearings to ensure good fit, set retainers aside for the time. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets, bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head, and pack some in the camshaft bearings. Set the exhaust cam into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. The cam chain pulls the camshaft sprockets in a counter clockwise direction and the slack of the chain must be kept on the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. The exhaust cam has two timing marks on it. When correctly installed one mark will be at the 9 o’clock position and the other mark will be at the 12 o’clock position. When correctly timed the mark at 9 o’clock will be aligned with the valve cover gasket surface. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. The intake cam has two timing marks also. One at 12 o’clock and the other at 3 o’clock. When both cams are installed correctly, the valve cover gasket surface will form a straight line through the exhaust timing mark at 9 o’clock and the intake timing mark at 3 o’clock

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APRILIA ATLANTIC 125 – 200 REPAIR/ SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 19-11-2010

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DISASSEMBLING THE COMPONENTS – Never use pliers or similar tools to slacken and/or tighten nuts and bolts. Always use a suitable spanner. – Mark all connections (hoses, wiring, etc.) with their positions before disconnecting them. Identify each connection using a distinctive symbol or convention. – Mark each part clearly to avoid confusion when refitting. – Thoroughly clean and wash any components you have removed using a detergent with low flash point. – Mated parts should always be refitted together. These parts will have seated themselves against one another in service as a result of normal wear and tear and should never be mixed up with other similar parts on refitting. – Certain components are matched-pair parts and should always be replaced as a set. – Keep the motorcycle and its components well away from heat sources. ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS To disconnect the electrical connector, follow the procedures below. Failure to comply with these procedures may lead to irreparable damages to the connector and the wiring as well. If present, press the special safety hooks. ENGINE OIL DANGER Prolonged or repeated contact with engine oil may cause severe skin damage. Wash your hands thoroughly after handling engine oil. Do not release into the environment. Dispose of engine oil through the nearest waste oil reclamation firm or through the supplier. Wear latex gloves during servicing. Change engine after the first 1000 km (621 mi) and then every 6000 km (3728 mi), 2.11.2. (Recommended) oil fork , see 1.8.1. FRONT FORK OIL DANGER Modifying the suspension settings or the viscosity of the front fork oil will affect its response. Standard oil viscosity: SAE 20 W. Choose the oil viscosity to determine the type of response required (SAE 5W for a softer suspension, 20W for a stiffer suspension). The two grades can also be mixed in varying solutions to obtain the desired response. F.A. or Fork have special properties, which enable them to retain virtually the same viscosity regardless of temperature to give constant damping response

SBK APRILIA RSV4 R Technical Specifications

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 06-11-2010

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The transmission has also been designed to the meet most advanced criteria to offer the maximum performance possible. To underscore the racing soul of the V4 engine, it is mated to a cassette gearbox with a wet sump lubrication system (with oil in the crankcase). The wet clutch features a mechanical slipper system for optimised engine braking torque control and stability under hard braking. THE 65° V4 ENGINE in short: Engine capacity: 999.6 cc Architecture: 65° V4 Crankcase: monobloc with integrated cylinder liners Timing system: 4 valves per cylinder (Titanium and Nymonic) operated directly by a camshaft driven by a mixed chain/gear system, lateral timing chain, central gear train. Fuel system: electronic injection with 2 injectors per cylinder and integrated independent Ride by Wire system for each bank. Three mappings selectable from handlebar. Antivibration countershaft Maximum rpm: 14,000 Compression ratio: 13:1 Transmission: six speed cassette gearbox Clutch: Multiplate wet clutch with slipper system Electronic management: Magneti Marelli control unit managing ignition, injection and Ride by Wire system. CHASSIS Aprilia bikes have always been world famous for the superiority of these chassis. RSV4 R raises the bar even higher with a totally state of the art chassis architecture which, drawing from the expertise accumulated by Aprilia in years of racing and victories, tames the explosive power of the V4 engine to offer the rider absolute control over the bike. Quite simply, the RSV4 R is the best package available today for the rider demanding the utmost in performance in a bike that is as exciting as a track day machine as it is fun to ride on the open road. Perfectly centralised masses is just one of the strengths of the RSV4 R chassis. To achieve this result, every single aspect has been optimised down to the tiniest detail. As on a racing machine, the fuel tank is positioned so that the majority of the fuel sits under the saddle optimising bike balance and cancelling out handling differences between full and empty tank conditions.

Kawasaki KFX KLX 400 Camshafts Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Remove the plug bolt from the back of the cam chain tensioner assembly. It is under pressure from the spring. Remove the spring and pin. Remove the bolts and tensioner assembly from the cylinder. Release the lock on the tensioner assembly and push the tensioner rod into the assembly so that it is fully retracted. Remove the eight 5mm Allen headed bolts that hold the cam caps in place. Remove the cam caps; be aware of the locating dowels in the caps to keep them from falling into the engine. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the caps to lift them off their dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobe as the pry point. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain; dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets and bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head. Set the exhaust camshaft into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. Check the location of the cam lobes. The camshafts are marked, and preset to 108-degree centers. If the lobes are not where they should be, adjust the positioning of the camshaft by rotating the sprocket one tooth on the chain. Do this until it is in the correct position as before you removed the camshafts. Check the positioning of the crankshaft for the TDC mark

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APRILIA TUONO V4 R APRC Technical specifications

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 16-11-2010

Engine type Aprilia longitudinal 65° V-4 cylinder, 4-stroke, liquid cooling system, double overhead camshafts (DOHC), four valves per cylinder Fuel Unleaded petrol Bore and stroke 78 x 52.3 mm Total engine apacity 999.6 cc Compression ratio 13:1 Maximum power at crankshaft 162 hp (119 kW) at 11,000 rpm Maximum torque at crankshaft 110 Nm at 9,000 rpm Fuel system Airbox with front dynamic air intakes. 4 Weber-Marelli 48-mm throttle bodies with 4 injectors and latest generation Ride-by-Wire engine management. Choice of three different engine maps selectable by the rider with bike in motion: T (Track), S (Sport), R (Road) Ignition Magneti Marelli digital electronic ignition system integrated in engine control system, with one spark lug per cylinder and “stick-coil” type coils Starting Electric Exhaust system 4 into 2 into 1 layout, single oxygen sensor, lateral single silencer with engine management system controlled butterfly valve and integrated trivalent catalytic converter (already meets future Euro4 regulations) Alternator Flywheel mounted 420W alternator with rare earth magnets Lubrication Wet sump lubrication system with oil radiator and two oil pumps (lubrication and cooling) Gearbox 6-speed cassette type gearbox 1st: 39/15 (2.600) 2nd: 33/16 (2.063) 3rd: 34/20 (1.700) 4th: 32/22 (1,455) 5th: 34/26 (1,308) 6th: 33/27 (1,222) Gear lever with Aprilia Quick Shift electronic system (AQS)
Clutch Multiplate wet clutch with mechanical slipper system rimary drive Straight cut gears and integrated flexible coupling, drive ratio: 73/44 (1,659) Secondary drive Chain: Drive ratio: 42/16 (2.625) Traction anagement APRC System (Aprilia Performance Ride Control), which includes Traction Control (ATC), Wheelie Control (AWC), Launch Control (ALC), all of which can be configured and deactivated independently. Frame Aluminium dual beam chassis with pressed and cast sheet elements. Sachs steering damper. Front suspension Sachs upside down front fork with Æ 43 mm stanchions. Low profile forged aluminium calliper mountings for radial callipers. Completely adjustable spring preload and hydraulic compression and rebound damping. Wheel travel: 120 mm

Aprilia Shiver GT ABS Technical Specifications

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 06-11-2010

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Technical Specifications Aprilia Shiver GT ABS Engine type Aprilia V90 four-stroke longitudinal 90° V-twin engine, liquid cooled, double overhead camshafts with mixed gear/chain timing system, four valves per cylinder. Tri-Map Ride-by- Wire system Fuel Unleaded Bore and stroke 92 x 56.4 mm Total engine capacity 749.9 cc Compression ratio 11: 1 Maximum power at crankshaft 95 hp at 9,000 rpm Maximum torque at crankshaft 8.25 kgm at 7,000 rpm Induction and fuel system Integrated engine management system. Injection system with Ride by Wire throttle opening system and Tri-Map mapping selection Ignition Digital electronic ignition integrated with injection system. Starter Electric Exhaust system 2 into 1 exhaust system in 100% stainless steel with three-way catalytic converter and oxygen sensor Alternator 450 W at 6,000 rpm Lubrication Wet sump. Clutch Hydraulically operated multiplate wet clutch Primary drive Straight cut gears, drive ratio: 60/31 (1.75) Secondary drive Chain. Drive ratio: 16/44 Chassis Detachable steel frame linked with high resistant bolts and side aluminum plates. Removable rear sub frame. Front suspension Upside-down fork, stanchions ∅ 43. wheel travel 120 mm. Rear suspension Aluminum alloy swing arm; with swing arm stiffener brace. Hydraulic shock absorber with adjustable rebound and preload. Wheel travel 130 mm Brakes Front: Dual ∅ 320 mm diam. stainless steel floating discs. Radial calipers with four pistons. Metal braided brake pipe. Rear: ∅ 240 mm stainless steel disc. Single piston caliper. Metal braided brake pipe. Two-channel Continental ABS system Tyres Tubeless. Front: 120/70 ZR 17 Rear: 180/55 ZR 17 Dimensions Max Length: 2,265 mm Max Width: 800 mm Max height: 1,210 mm Tank 16 Litres

Harley-Davidson BAKER COMPENSATING SPROCKET INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-04-2012

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1) Remove the primary chain case cover. Refer to your Factory Service Manual for this procedure. 2) Remove the compensating sprocket nut with a 1-1/2″ socket. A ½” impact gun is best for this task. *) Remove the 1-3/16″ clutch nut. This is a left handed nut so loosen it by turning it in the clockwise direction (as viewed from the left side of the motorcycle). 4) With one hand on the compensating sprocket and one on the clutch assembly, remove the primary drive assembly (compensating sprocket, primary chain, tensioner assembly, and clutch as shown in figure a and set it on a clean surface. 5) Flip the adjuster shoe bracket on the chain tensioner assembly. figure b shows the stock orientation of the adjuster show and bracket. Figure C shows the adjuster show bracket flipped 180°. To flip the shoe bracket, remove the two ¼-28×2 bolts that hold the bracket assembly together. This will allow you to separate the chain tensioner assembly components from the primary chain. Flip the bracket around as shown in figure c . PAGE 4 Figure B Figure A BAKER COMPENSATING SPROCKET INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 6) install the new compensating sprocket, chain, and clutch onto the motor sprocket shaft and the transmission input shaft. The flipped chain tensioner assembly (as shown in figure c ) is not ‘captured’ on the primary chain like the stock configuration. Loosely install the chain tensioner assembly onto the anchor plate bolt. Tighten the compensating sprocket nut to 157+ 7 ft-lbs and the clutch hub nut to 75+ 5 ft-lbs using red Loctite on the threads.

CCS- 100 ELECTRONIC CRUISE CONTROL INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 10-11-2010

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UNDER HOOD INSTALLATION Connecting the Cruise Control Cable to the Throttle NOTE: Prior to attaching servo cable to throttle, locate an accessible area to mount the cruise control servo, but do not mount it. Leave the servo in this area (unmounted) and route cable to throttle attachment area. CAUTION: Attach the cruise control cable so that it parallels the existing throttle cable as nearly as possible. Choose a mounting method from the figures below: Attachment area for securing cable Bead Chain Coupling Sleeve (#23) Bead Chain Coupling (#24) 3 BEAD CONNECTOR FIG. 6 FIG. 7 FORD LINKAGE ADAPTOR Rubber Ring WIRE LOOP FOR PULLEY Carburetor Existing Snap-On Throttle Arm On Vehicle FIG. 2 SNAP-ON THROTTLE ARM MOUNT FIG. 3 CLAMP-ON THROTTLE ARM MOUNT Determine a suitable point on the throttle linkage to mount the cable connector. The mounting point chosen should have between 1-1/2″ to 2″ total linkage travel. It must operate smoothly by hand. There should be at least 5 beads between the throttle connector and servo cable end. The cable must pull in a straight line from throttle linkage. Some vehicles that do not have enough total linkage travel have to be connected at the accelerator pedal. The bead chain and servo cable end must be inserted into the bead chain connector. Then the bead chain coupling sleeve must slide over bead chain connector to insure that the end will not hang in the connector. FIG. 1 Cable Bead Chain Eyelet Connector (#25) Pull off Throttle Arm and Insert Bead Chain Connector between it and Carburetor Arm. Be sure additional thickness of adaptor does not bind linkage. 20° Bead Chain Eyelet Connector (#25) Cable Must Be within 20° of same angle as Throttle Rod Throttle Cable Throttle Wire Loop (#29) Barrel Wire Adaptor (#30) WIRE BARREL FOR PULLEY FIG. 5 FIG. 4

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