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Harley-Davidson Electronic Ignition Module Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-04-2012

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Step 1: Switch main dashboard switch to “off” position (Ignition& light switch) Step 2: Disconnect negative (ground) cable from the Battery Step 3: Remove the Condenser and Breaker points from the circuit breaker timing base. Step 4: Disconnect advance/ retard cable from timing base Step 5: Remove timing base from timer shaft and housing (see your manual for instructions) Step 6: Remove circuit breaker wire stud or circuit breaker to coil wire assembly from timing base Step 7: Remove circuit breaker wire from Ignition coil, and mark terminal on coil with piece of tape. Step 8: Install the Electronic Ignition Module on the timing base. Mount this short black wire to one on the timer base screws by keeping some slack in this wire so the timing base can turn free. Solder the flag terminal to this short black wire and mount it under the timer to motor bolt. This way of mounting provides a much better grounding. Do NOT use the screws (number 1 or 2 screws from picture below) from the timing base!!!! Step 9: Now three wires pass this hole via the rubber grommet. Figure 1 Figure 2 Step 10: Reinstall the timer base on the timer shaft housing, and keep some slack in the wires before protruding the hole in the timer shaft housing, and secure with ground spring and cover retainer. Reconnect the advance/retard cable to the timer base. Step 11: Route the two long wires to the ignition coil. Check in the HD service manual for a proper route to the ignition coil. (Keep away from hot surfaces like exhaust systems). Cut the wires to the exact length necessary for mounting. Step 12: Determine the exact length of the wire loom. Keep in mind that one end of the loom enters the timer shaft housing by 1cm. Cut the loom to the proper length. Step 13: Insert both wires in the loom. Strip both wire ends and solder the two flag terminals on the wires. Step 14: Connect the red wire to the ignition coil, on the terminal where the 6 or 12 volt is supplied to. This terminal has at minimum one wire connected which runs to the main switch. Step 15: Connect the black wire to the ignition coil on the terminal which is empty, and has piece of tape on it. (Old place where the circuit breaker wire was connected to) Step 16: Install the trigger rotor on the timer shaft cam, and tighten the hex screw by using the hex key tool. Do not over tighten the screw! Step 17: Check for clearance between trigger rotor and Electronic Ignition Module. Appropriate clearance is between 0,5mm and 1,5mm . Minor adjustments can be made by unlocking the two screws and slightly shift/move the Electronic Ignition Module. Check if the rotor moves free. Timing instructions: Remove the spark plugs from the engine, but keep them connected to the spark coil cables and engine ground. This enables normal operation of the spark, and prevents unwanted engine firing on compression stroke. See service manual or handbook for timing instructions of your model Step 18: Reconnect the negative (ground) cable to the battery. Step 19: Switch main power to “on” position. The red light in the Electronic Ignition Module might already light up. If not, turn the kick starter slowly. The red light is on while charging (closed points)the Ignition coil, facing solid metal of the trigger rotor. The light goes off (open points) when the end of the solid surface of the trigger rotor passes the centre of the Electronic Ignition Module. At that point a spark is generated by the coil

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Toyota Electronic Throttle Control Investigation

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 14-06-2011

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The purpose of this research study was to contribute to a better understanding of electronic throttle control system malfunctions and the fail-safe detection capabilities of selected vehicles equipped with electronic throttle controls. More specifically, this research primarily examined the fail-safe detection capabilities of electrical circuitry
designed to prevent sudden or unintended acceleration of electronic throttle controlled vehicles manufactured by Toyota Motor Co. The Accelerator Pedal Position

DYNA III ELECTRONIC IGNITION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1)Fasten the clamp to the electronic module using the 4-4O x 5/16 screws and lockouts provided. The damp and nuts go on the inside of the case. 2)Remove the fuel tank. Attach the module to the frame in the location selected. Cut off excess clamp material. 3)Remove an engine case or valve cover bolt and fasten the ground lug (black wire) securely to the engine. DO NOT ATTACH TO FRAME. 4])Locate the two ignition coils (they are positioned behind the left side cover on some models). There is a white wire going to the positive side of one coil that carries the switched 12 volts. A short blue/black wire then connects that point to the positive side of the other coil. Connect the separate red wire included with the kit to the spare spade terminal that is available on the positive terminal of the second coil. 5)Plug the red wire coming from the electronic module into the red wire installed in Step 4. 6)Remove the cap from the contact breaker housing. Remove the alternator cover, timing mark inspection plug, and spark plugs. 7)Remove the two screws and clips holding the points plate to the housing. Remove the screws holding the condensers to the housing. Disconnect the red and green wires where they plug into the wire harness (or coils), and remove the entire points/plate/condenser assembly. 8)Make sure the top of the housing is clean. Place the DYNA III sensor plate on the housing and orient it so that the wires exit to the rear. Place one of the original wire grommets on the front end of the plate and secure it with the screw and clip previously removed. Route the sensor cable wires through the other grommet (2 wires in the largest hole) and secure with the other screw and clip. Before tightening the plate screws, make sure the plate does not obstruct the cap screw holes. 9)Using a hex wrench in the alternator bolt, rotate the engine forward until the right hand cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke (D mark aligned with index mark on engine case). 10) Make sure the points cam is free of dirt and grease, and slip the DYNA III rotor over the cam Push the rotor down until it’s flange is in contact with the top of the cam. Orient the rotor so that the mark on top aligns with the line on the left (right cylinder) sensor. While pushing down on the rotor, tighten the set screws using the alien wrench supplied with the kit. 11)Rotate the engine by hand and check run-out (wobble) of rotor by watching the rotor/sensor gap. If the rotor is installed correctly, there should be no more than . 005 run-out, and it should not come in contact with either sensor. As a final check, turn the engine with the electric starter and observe the run-out. 12)Connect the three sensor cable plugs to the module receptacles, matching the red, white, and black wires. 13)Plug the remaining red and green wires onto the spade terminals where the original points connected, matching the colors

Harley-Davidson Electronic Fuel Injection Tuner INSTALLATION Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 14-04-2012

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Harley-Davidson Electronic Sequential Port Fuel Injection System, (ESPFI) This completely new engine management system was released starting with select 2001 model year Softail motorcycles. This system is a speed/density, open loop, sequential port fuel injection design that also controls spark timing and spark intensity. Speed/Density System – When the ECM monitors manifold air pressure, air temperature, throttle position and engine rpm to manage fuel delivery. Open Loop Control – When the ECM monitors sensors positioned on the intake side of the engine and does not monitor the end result of internal combustion at the exhaust. Sequential Port Fuel Injection – When the injector nozzle is positioned in the manifold near the intake valve and is precisely timed to deliver fuel to each cylinder. This ESPFI system is the exclusive design used on 2001 and Later EFI-equipped Softail models, 2002 and Later EFI-equipped Touring models, 2004 and Later Dyna models, and 2004 and later V-Rod models. Current ESPFI Components The following is a list of the major components of Harley-Davidson’s current ESPFI system. It is important to have an understanding of what these components do before learning how the ESPFI system functions. Refer to the appropriate Harley-Davidson Service Manual for the vehicle you are working on for additional information on component design and function and for the physical location and testing procedures for each individual component. ECM – Electronic Control Module – this is the brain of the system that collects input signals from multiple sensors, makes decisions and sends output signals to deliver fuel and spark to the engine. CKP – Crank Position Sensor – this sensor provides input signals to the ECM that indicate engine rpm, (how fast the engine is running in R evolutions P er M inute). The ECM also uses these inputs to determine what stroke the engine is in so it can deliver the fuel and spark at the desired time.

MPS Electronic Engine Kill Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-10-2010

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blue wire should be connected to the normally open pole of the shift button. The Shift Button is a momentary type switch. The common pole of the shift button should be connected to a good ground and the normally open connects to the blue wire from the Electronic Engine Kill box. Electric Air Valve – The Electric Air Valve has two wires. These wires are interchangeable. One needs an ignition switched 12 volt power source. The other needs a ground signal when the shift button is depressed. The easiest way to do this is to locate the red and blue wires in the Electronic Engine Kill wire harness. Splice one Electric Air Valve wire into the red wire and splice the other Electric Air Valve wire into the blue. Once again soldering is the preferred method but you can use schotchlok splices. Setting Kill Time – Kill time is the amount of time the engine stays dead between gears during a shift. Generally the shorter the kill time the quicker the shift. The proper kill time will vary from bike to bike. Its generally better to start with to much kill time and work your way quicker. We generally start at around 75 ms. of kill time. The Kill Time is adjusted via a small potentiometer accessed through the grommet on the front of the unit. Using a small screwdriver Carefully turn the pot clockwise to the end of its travel. This is 100 ms of kill time. Now, carefully turn the pot screw counterclockwise to the end of its travel. This is 50 ms of kill time. Halfway in between is 75 ms. The pot only goes from 7 oclock to 5 oclock so don’t force it, they break easily! Testing The System – With no air in the system start the bike. Bring the rpm up to around 3000 rpm and push the shift button. You should hear a slight hesitation in the engine each time you depress the shift button. Once you establish that you have a engine kill when pushing the shift button remove the clevis pin from the shift cylinder and extend the shaft to the end of its travel. Air up the shifter to 120 psi. We also have onboard compressor kits available to conveniently fill the air tank on the fly or high pressure CO2 systems that can shift hundreds of times without refilling. With the engine off and the key on push the shift button

NORTON LIGHTWEIGHT TWIN ELECTRONIC IGNITION Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Norton) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. 2. Remove the petrol tank and/or seat to gain access to the ignition coils, condensers and wiring. 3. For safety, disconnect the battery (preferably both terminals). 4. Remove timing cover. 5. Disconnect the two wires (usually black-white & black-yellow) and remove the contact-breaker plate. At the other end, these two wires must be disconnected from the ignition coils & condensers. The condensers are no longer required and can be removed. They should not be connected to the electronic ignition system. 6. Remove auto-advance unit. 7. Disconnect the remaining wires from the ignition coils. These come from the ignition switch supply. The colour of this ignition supply wire may be different on some machines; if so check using a test lamp or meter to find the live wire when the ignition is switched on. 8. Find a suitable place for the ignition module, preferably near to the ignition coils. Secure the ignition module to the frame using one or more large cable ties. An adhesive mounting base is provided; this can be affixed to the underside of the module and the cable tie passed through and around the module and frame. Do not completely wrap the module in foam rubber. 9. Using the black coil link wire, connect the negative (—) terminal of one ignition coil to the positive (+) terminal of the other ignition coil. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. • BLACK COIL LINK WIRE • RED EARTHING WIRE • CRIMP CONNECTORS & INSULATORS • LARGE & SMALL CABLE TIES • CABLE TIE ADHESIVE MOUNTING BASE 3 10. Take the black wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and female spade connector to the end. Connect to the negative (—) terminal on ignition coil #2. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 11. Take the red wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and female spade connector to the end. Connect to the positive (+) terminal on ignition coil #1. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 12. For NEGATIVE EARTH electrics go to step 15. 13. For POSITIVE EARTH electrics (standard): Take the white wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and male spade connector to the end. Connect to one of the negative ignition feed wires previously removed in step 7. The other wire (if fitted) is spare and should be covered with insulation to prevent shorting to the frame etc. 14. Take the red earthing wire, fit an insulator and female spade connector on one end and connect to the positive (+) terminal on ignition coil #1. Cut to length and fit a ring terminal on the other end and connect to a good earth point on the frame, ideally the battery positive (+) terminal. See fig.1 GOTO STEP 17.

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NORTON TWIN CYLINDER MOTORCYCLES ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Norton) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. 2. Remove the petrol tank and/or seat to gain access to the ignition coils, condensors and wiring. 3. For safety, disconnect the battery (preferably both terminals). 4. Remove timing cover. (The Atlas engine has the points housing behind the cylinder head). 5. Disconnect the two wires (usually black-white & black-yellow) and remove the contact-breaker plate. At the other end, these two wires must be disconnected from the ignition coils & condensors. The condensors are no longer required and can be removed. They should not be connected to the electronic ignition system. 6. Remove auto-advance unit. 7. Disconnect the remaining wires from the ignition coils. These come from the ignition switch supply. On the Norton Commando, remove the white-blue wire from the ballast resistor between the two ignition coils; the ballast resistor is no longer required. The colour of this ignition supply wire may be different on some machines; if so check using a test lamp or meter to find the live wire when the ignition is switched on. 8. Find a suitable place for the ignition module, preferably near to the ignition coils. Secure the ignition module to the frame using one or more large cable ties. An adhesive mounting base is provided; this can be affixed to the underside of the module and the cable tie passed through and around the module and frame. Do not completely wrap the module in foam rubber. 9. Using the black coil link wire, connect the negative (—) terminal of one ignition coil to the positive (+) terminal of the other ignition coil. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 10. Take the black wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and female spade connector to the end. Connect to the negative (—) terminal on ignition coil #2. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 11. Take the red wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and female spade connector to the end. Connect to the positive (+) terminal on ignition

INDIAN MECHANICAL- TO- ELECTRONIC SPEEDOMETER CONVERSION KIT INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Indian) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Speed Sensor Requirement Identification Certain motorcycles are not equipped with a port that will accept a Transmission Speed Sensor. Those models will require a Rear Wheel Speed Sensor. To determine which sensor is required, follow the following procedure: Determine if you have a mechanical speedometer 1. The mechanical speedometer is around 2 ¼” in diameter. 2. On the axle on the left side of the front wheel, there will be a 2″ diameter ‘donut like’ part that the axle passes through. This is the speedometer drive. Attached to the speedometer drive and extending back and up under the fuel tank will be a housed cable. This is the speedometer drive and cable to drive the mechanical speedometer. 3. If these conditions are true, you have a mechanical speedometer. Determine which speedometer drive sensor you need. You must determine if your transmission will accept the transmission sensor. If not, you will need the rear axle sensor. 1. On the top, right, rear of the transmission, will be a 1″ by 1/2″ (approximately) cover held in by one bolt. 2. If you find this then REMOVE the bolt and over. 3. If after removal of the cover you find a larger hole underneath, then you can use the transmission sensor. Figure 1—Transmission Sensor Port (Inset Shows Cover Removed) 4. If you have no cover, or under the cover is not a hole, then you need the rear axle sensor. Be sure to look closely and under the gasket under the cover. 5. If you have no sensor hole, then you need to make sure you have the rear wheel sensor. Contact Thunder Heart Performance if you need to exchange your sensor for a different one. 1.3 Preparation and Painting of the Console Your console is made of Lexan®, which is a clear, durable plastic. It can be painted on the inside (so that outside scratches will not affect the paint), or on the outside. For the best paint results, thoroughly clean the console only with the following cleaners

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Victory Electronic Jet Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 31-10-2010

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INSTALLATION ( at anytime during install or tuning please callus for any and all help, we can’thelpifyoudon’tcall ) 1. Before installing the TFI you must first disconnect the negative lead from the battery. 2. Determinea location for the TFI unit. Suggested locations areas follows: Under the seat, behinda side cover or tail section. 3. The TFIcomeswitha harness with injector connectors that match the factory injector connectors. 4. Locate the factory fuel injectors (see owners manual if you are not sure)*. If the TFIharness does not match your injectors do not proceed and call tech support at 877-764- 3337. 5. Disconnect the factory injector connectors from the fuel injectors and replace with the TFI injector connectors from the TFI unit, basically unhook the factory injector connector and plug the matching TFI connector (female) to the injector and then connect the factory injector connector to the TFI connector that simulates the injector (male). There is no order to hookup the TFI harness to the factory harness just make sure the original factory connector goes toits’original cylinder. It is a good idea to make sure there is a little slack in the harness to prevent engine vibration from damaging/breakingawireon the connectors. 6. Be sure to check the wires are not indirect contact with any sharp edges, exhaust and/or other objects, which could result in long term wear and/or damage. 7. Connect the TFI ground lead to the negative terminal of the battery along with the factory ground lead. 8. With the rubber plug removed from the TFI, turn the motorcycle key switch to the “ON”position. As the bikes electrical system goes through initial startup mode you may see LED’sflashingonthe TFI.

4-STROKE TRIUMPH SINGLE CYLINDER MOTORCYCLES ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1. Remove the petrol tank (and seat if necessary) to gain access to the ignition coil, condensor and wiring. 2. For safety, disconnect the battery, if fitted (preferably both terminals). 3. Remove the spark plug. 4. Remove the alternator rotor cover (if fitted). 5. Loosen the auto-advance centre bolt. Rotate the engine to the correct full advance timing position for your machine (see table on page 6), using one of these methods: • Models from 1967 on: use the marks provided for strobe timing on the rotor & chaincase (inside the rotor cover). Unless these marks are known to be accurate it is recommended that they are checked for correct alignment. These marks should line up at the full advance position, check using one of the methods below and, if necessary, re-mark the rotor. • Models from 1969 on: use the timing plug on the left-hand crankcase • Use a degree disc on the crankshaft / camshaft (see table on page 6) • Use a dial guage down the spark plug hole (see table on page 6) 5. Remove kickstart, gear lever and outer timing cover. 6. Remove the contact-breaker plate and lead from the outer timing cover. 7. Taking the ignition trigger assembly, insert a small cable tie into the two holes in front of the connector block on the ignition trigger. This will be used later to secure the two wires to the plate. 8. Fit the ignition trigger plate with the adjustable slots at approx. 6 & 12 o’clock, using the original pillar fixings & washers, positioned in the centre of the slots (to allow for adjustment in either direction). Handle the trigger with care. • RED EARTHING WIRE • CRIMP CONNECTORS & INSULATORS • LARGE & SMALL CABLE TIES • CABLE TIE ADHESIVE MOUNTING BASE 3
9. Remove the centre bolt securing the auto-advance unit. Remove the complete auto-advance unit with an extractor bolt or by tapping it gently sideways. 10. Fit the magnetic rotor in place of the auto-advance unit, with the magnets/ red marks positioned at approx. 3 & 9 o’clock. The magnetic rotor has a male taper which fits into the taper in the end of the camshaft. There is no keyway, allowing it to be fitted in any desired position. 11. Using the ¼” washer and the appropriate bolt (UNF or BSF), pass the bolt through the centre of the magnetic rotor and into the thread in the camshaft. Finger tighten only at this stage. The magnetic rotor centre thread (metric M8) is provided for attaching a puller, if the rotor should need to be removed for engine servicing, etc. 12. Replace the outer timing cover, gear lever & kickstart. 13. Check that the engine is still at the correct full advance position, then adjust the magnetic rotor position so that one of the red marks is centrally behind the static timing hole at 9 o’clock (see fig. 4, page 7). If your machine’s camshaft rotates clockwise, refer to fig. 3. Gently tap the rotor into the taper & tighten the centre bolt, using a 3/16″ allen key. WIRING: 14. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. Avoid coiling up surplus lead.

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