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SUZUKI M109 1800 cc EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1. Remove the seat and right side fairing cover (with M109 insignia), behind the fuel tank. To remove the fairing, release the plastic peg on top by pushing the center inward and pulling the fairing upwards until the peg releases, remove the M6 button head bolt at the bottom of the fairing. Pull the fairing outward from the rear and upward near the plastic peg to release it. Once it is free from all plastic pegs pull it forward to release it from the bottom of the fuel tank. 2. Remove the right side cover above the exhaust-mounting bracket secured by one M6 button head bolt, retain bolt for later. Remove the chrome steel cover above the exhaust secured by two remaining bolts, (this chrome piece will no longer be used.) Remove the large left rear rubber grommet and flanged steel collar from this chrome piece, to do this press the steel collar out of the rubber grommet first, once the collar is removed push the rubber grommet out of the wire loop on the chrome piece, set aside for later use. 3. Locate the exhaust valve actuator solenoid and harness and disconnect the black 3-prong electrical connector and white 2-prong electrical connector. 4. Remove the socket head bolts securing exhaust flanges to cylinder heads, set these fasteners aside for later use in reassembly. Support the weight of the exhaust system and remove the 2, 8 mm bolts and one 8 mm nut securing the exhaust mounting bracket and exhaust assembly. Keep these fasteners for use later. Remove the stock exhaust system as one complete unit; this includes the stock exhaust bracket, headpipes and muffler, exhaust valve solenoid and cables. 5. The exhaust valve actuator solenoid must now be removed from the stock exhaust-mounting bracket. To perform this, loosen the two nuts securing each cable to the exhaust valve cable-mounting tab, Position A in Figure 1. Make enough slack in the cables so that the ends of the cables’ threaded sheath may be disengaged from the end of the mounting tab. Now remove the two M6 hex head bolts securing the solenoid to the stock exhaust bracket. The stock exhaust mounting bracket, headpipes and muffler and exhaust valve solenoid cables will not be used anymore with the your new Cobra Exhaust System. 6. Remove the dust cover from the solenoid to expose the rotating cam and cables. DO NOT TRY TO ROTATE THE CAM RELATIVE TO THE ACTUATOR SELENOID TO REMOVE THE CABLES; DOING SO MAY DAMAGE THE INTERNAL COMPONENTS OF THE SOLENOID. To remove the cables from the cam, use the slack in the cables obtained in Step 5 to disengage the cable barrels from the cam, see Figure 1. THE DUST COVER WILL NOT BE REINSTALLED. 7. Now prepare the exhaust valve actuator solenoid for reuse. SECURELY HOLD THE CAM TO PREVENT IT FROM ROTATING IN THE SOLENOID. WHILE PREVENTING THE CAM FROM ROTATING, remove the 10 – 32 flange bolt securing it, see Figure 2. Replace the cam with the Cobra supplied cam, BE SURE TO PREVENT THE CAM FROM ROTATING WHEN REINSTALLING THE BOLT, OTHERWISE DAMAGE MAY OCCUR TO THE SOLENOID , see Figure 3. Torque to factory specifications.

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SUZUKI M109 1800 cc FRONT/REAR EXHAUST / HEATSHIELD INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 15-11-2010

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1. Remove the seat and right side fairing cover (with M109 insignia), behind the fuel tank. To remove the fairing, release the plastic peg on top by pushing the center inward and pulling the fairing upwards until the peg releases, remove the M6 button head bolt at the bottom of the fairing. Pull the fairing outward from the rear and upward near the plastic peg to release it. Once it is free from all plastic pegs pull it forward to release it from the bottom of the fuel tank. 2. Remove the right side cover above the exhaust-mounting bracket secured by one M6 button head bolt, retain bolt for later. Remove the chrome steel cover above the exhaust secured by two remaining bolts, (this chrome piece will no longer be used.) Remove the large left rear rubber grommet and flanged steel collar from this chrome piece, to do this press the steel collar out of the rubber grommet first, once the collar is removed push the rubber grommet out of the wire loop on the chrome piece, set collar and grommet aside for later use. 3. Locate the exhaust valve actuator solenoid and harness and disconnect the black 3-prong electrical connector and white 2-prong electrical connector. 4. Remove the socket head bolts securing exhaust flanges to cylinder heads, set these fasteners aside for later use in reassembly. Support the weight of the exhaust system and remove the 2, 8 mm bolts and one 8 mm nut securing the exhaust mounting bracket and exhaust assembly. Keep these fasteners for use later. Remove the stock exhaust system as one complete unit; this includes the stock exhaust bracket, headpipes and muffler, exhaust valve actuator solenoid and cables. 5. The exhaust valve actuator solenoid must now be removed from the stock exhaust-mounting bracket. To perform this, loosen the two nuts securing each cable to the exhaust valve cable-mounting tab, Position A in Figure 1. Make enough slack in the cables so that the ends of the cables’ threaded sheath may be disengaged from the end of the mounting tab. Now remove the two M6 hex head bolts securing the solenoid to the stock exhaust bracket. The stock exhaust mounting bracket, headpipes and muffler and exhaust valve solenoid cables will not be used anymore with the your new Cobra Exhaust System

Yamaha FZ-1 TiForce exhaust system Installation Instructions (Slip-on)

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 03-01-2012

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Loosen the clamp where the stock tailpipe connects to the stock collector. 2. Remove the bolt holding the stock muffler assembly to the footpeg/exhaust bracket. 3. Remove the stock tailpipe and exhaust assembly as one piece. 4. Remove the nut securing the right side center stand support bolt. Install the new supplied bracket as shown in (See figure 1) 5. Remove the right rear footpeg assembly complete, bolt the new footpeg mounting bracket in place of the stock one using supplied bolts. 6. Carefully unbolt the footpeg from the bracket (Be careful there are springs and washers that will fall out if you are not careful), bolt the footpeg into the new billet footpeg bracket. Bolt the footpeg bracket to the footpeg- mounting bracket. (See figure 2) 7. Remove the stock exhaust gasket from the stock tailpipe and installthe gasket into the new tailpipe. 8. Slide the supplied clamp over the new tailpipe and slide the new tailpipe onto the stock collector. 9. Slide the TiForce end can into place. Loosely attach the two rubber bands, stainless steel bands K, and stayarm / hanger G to the end can using the supplied 6mm hardware H. See figure 4. 10. Place the bands approximately 150mm from the edge of the end can. See figure 5. 11. Using the stock provided mounting point on the passenger footpeg, and using the stock mounting bolt, mount the end can loosely, allowing for some adjustment. Insert the stock mounting bolt through the stay / hanger G. 12. Attach the supplied springs to connect the tailpipe and muffler assembly. 13. Make sure the exhaust system is free and clear, if necessary jigglethe system to adjust for proper clearance. 14. Carefully align the two stainless bands K so that they are parallel to each other, and spaced properly on the can (figure 5), then tighten the 6mm hardware H and the stock mounting bolt hardware. Make sure thatthe rubber pads fully cover the band(s). USE CAUTION WHEN TIGHTENING THE 6MM HARDWARE AND THE TWO BANDS SO AS NOT TO CRUSH OR DISTORT THE SLEEVE OF THE CAN. 15. Tighten the supplied clamp to secure the new tailpipe to the factory collector. 16. Using some brake and contact cleaner on a clean rag, carefully wipe down the entire exhaust system to remove any residual oils, anti seize, fingerprints and dirt prior to starting the motor. FAILURE TO CLEAN THE TUBING AND CAN MAY RESULT IN PERMANENT STAINING OF THE SYSTEM WHEN HEATED. 17. Check that all hardware is tightened, then start the motor and check for exhaust leaks.

Yamaha YZF-R1 and R6 TiForce slip on exhaust system REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-01-2012

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1. Remove the fairing lowers. 2. For R1 owners, please remove the existing exhaust system from the EXUP valve rearward (EXUP valve is retained) and set aside. Save the stock exhaust clamp for reuse. For R6 owners, please disconnect the stock S-bend from the rear of the collector and set aside. Save the stock exhaust clamp for reuse (new clamp provided). Save the stock end can mounting bolt for reuse as well. 3. R1 owners only -Inspect the exhaust gasket. Replace if necessary (gasket provided). 4. For R1 owners -Install the S-Bend to the rear of the EXUP valve, make sure the system fits flush. Reuse the stock exhaust clamp to connect the S-bend to the valve. For R6 owners -Install the TiForce S-bend to the rear of the stock head pipes and collector. Make sure the system fits flush and snug. Reuse the stock exhaust clamp or the provided clamp and loosely attach for now. 5. Install the TiForce end can to the S-bend tail pipe. 6. Loosely attach the two rubber bands, stainless steel bands (K), and stay to the end can using the supplied 6mm hardware (H) and the hanger / stay arm (G). See figure 1 for the assembly procedure. 7. R1 owners -Place the bands approximately 180mm from the edge of the end can. See figure 2. R6 owners -Place the bands approximately 195mm from the edge of the end can. See figure 2. 8. R1 owners -Using the stock provided mounting point on the passenger footpeg, use the M10x45mm bolt and hardware to mount the end can loosely, allowing for some adjustment. 9. Carefully align the two stainless bands so that theyare parallel to each other, and spaced properly on the can. Tighten the 6mm hardware (H). Make sure that the rubber pads fully cover the bands (K). USE CAUTION WHEN TIGHTENING THE 6MM HARDWARE AND THE TWO BANDS SO AS NOT TO CRUSH OR DISTORT THE SLEEVE OF THE CAN. 10. Using some brake and contact cleaner on a clean rag, carefully wipe down the entire TiForce exhaust system to remove any residual oils, anti seize, fingerprints and dirt prior to starting the motor. FAILURE TO CLEAN THE TUBING AND CAN MAY RESULT IN PERMANENT STAINING OF THE SYSTEM WHEN HEATED. 11. Attach the supplied springs to secure the end can to the S-bend pipe using a spring installation tool if available. Make sure the exhaust system is free and clear of the bike. If necessary, adjust for proper clearance. 12. Go back and tighten all fasteners. 13. Check that all fasteners are tightened per specifications, then start the motor and check for exhaust leaks. 14. Reinstall the fairing lowers.

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BMW K1200 RS/ GT Full Exhaust System Full Exhaust System Installation Manual

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 26-10-2010

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1. Make sure the bike is completely cool before starting the installation. Make sure the bike is secure on the side- stand or ideally a rear service stand. 2. Remove the lower fairing. 3. Unscrew the O 2 sensor. Remove the stock exhaust system at the rear canister support bracket and where it bolts to the engine. CAUTION -the stock exhaust is very heavy, be careful not to drop it! Also, be careful not to damage the engine sensor located near the front header pipe. 4. Pry out the old exhaust port gaskets and replace with new BMW OE (x4) exhaust port gaskets. Adab of grease will help hold the gaskets in place while you work. 5. Coat the exhaust studs and O 2 sensor threads with high temperature anti-seize compound. 6. Install the TBR headers into the exhaust ports making sure to get a good seat onto the exhaust port gaskets. Next, install the header nuts starting at the rear/outside stud and working your way forward on the outside set of studs. Once that is finished repeat along the inside set of studs. Tighten header nuts only finger tight at this point. 7. Be sure to coat the threads of the sensor with the included packet of hi-temp anti-seize. Install the O 2 sensor into the TBR headers. Turning the sensor in the counterclockwise direction a few times then screwing it clockwise to install will help make it easier to install and prevent the wire from binding. 8. Place a bead of the hi-temp sealant on the outside edge of the headers that goes into the canister. Slide the TBR canister onto the end of the S-bend pipe. Wipe off the excess sealant that will squeeze out. 9. Carefully slide the muffler clamp over the muffler. ( Note: The stainless steel canister clamp and the name badge on the canister come from the factory with a clear plastic protective film. Please remove this film before operation.) Attach it to the canister support bracket using the stock BMWhardware. Both tabs of the canister clamp should be located on the inside of the canister support bracket. Leave loose for the moment. 10. Make sure everything is lined up and start to evenly tighten up the header nuts to BMWfactory torque specification. Tighten the canister support hardware and install the springs as well. 11. Start the bike and check for leaks around the exhaust ports and the header/canister junction. 12. Reinstall the lower fairing

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2007 Yamaha V-Star 1300 Classic Straights Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Stock Exhaust System Removal 1. Remove right side Foot peg assembly or Floorboard. (Whichever is applicable to your model.) 2. Remove bolts that are holding pipes at rear mounting bracket. 3. Loosen clamps at mufflers. 4. Remove mufflers. 5. Remove the two nuts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe to the rear cylinder head. 6. Remove rear exhaust pipe assembly. 7. Remove the two nuts that secure the front exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head. 8. Remove front exhaust pipe assembly. 9. Remove exhaust-mounting bracket from frame. Hard-Krome Exhaust System Installation NOTE: Take care when fitting this Hard-Krome aftermarket exhaust system on your motorcycle. It has been designed to replace a STOCK exhaust system on a motorcycle with its engine, frame and other components in their STOCK design, configuration and location. WARNING : Re-check and re-tighten ALL fasteners and supports after 50 miles, then re-check and tighten as necessary on a periodic basis to ensure proper operation and performance. NOTE: All fasteners should be loose during initial installation to ensure proper fit and location of the new exhaust system. 1. Install new exhaust gaskets. 2. Install mounting bracket using Bolts with flat & lock washers. 3. Install Front exhaust header pipe, taking care to not scratch chrome surfaces on pipe, engine or motorcycle — use masking tape as needed. 4. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 5. Install Nut strip into each slotted bracket of front pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 6. Carefully install rear pipe. 7. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 8. Install Nut strip into each slotted bracket of rear pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 9. Tighten the two bolts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe flange. 10. Tighten the two bolts that secure the front exhaust header pipe flange. 11. Tighten front pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 12. Tighten rear pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 13. Reinstall foot peg assembly or floorboard. 14. If applicable to your model install foot peg relocating brackets and foot pegs as shown in illustration. 15. Before starting bike wipe off any fingerprints and grease off pipes. Start bike and check for any exhaust leaks. NOTE: To achieve optimum performance from your Hard-Krome exhaust system we suggest installing the Dynojet jet kit for carbureted models

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Harley-Davidson V-Rod Destroyer Indy Series Exhaust REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-10-2010

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STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL (DESTROYER) 1. Remove both collector bolts. 2. Remove nuts from both front and rear exhaust cylinder head flanges using a 13mm socket. 3. If the Racepak is installed, remove both O2 and EGT sensors from the front and rear head pipes. 4. Carefully remove complete exhaust from the motorcycle. STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL (V-ROD) 5. Loosen clamp bolt at front of the collector using a 13mm socket. 6. Remove muffler bracket bolt using a 13mm wrench. 7. Carefully remove muffler and collector assembly from motorcycle. 8. Remove nuts from both front and rear exhaust cylinder head flanges using a 13mm socket. 9. Carefully remove head pipes from motorcycle. 10. Remove the stock exhaust flanges and circlips from both the front and rear head pipes. If the circlips are bent or twisted they should be replaced, Harley-Davidson part number #65045-01 We also recommend replacing the stock exhaust gaskets, Harley-Davidson part number #65109-01 INDY SERIES EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION 1. Identify front head pipe #7-8002. Install the stock flange and circlip. Install the exhaust gasket and front header pipe, leaving the flange nuts hand tight. 2. Repeat the above step for the rear head pipe #7-8006. 3. Slip the megaphone/collector assembly onto the head pipes, secure with the four springs supplied using the spring puller tool. 4. Rotate the exhaust so there is adequate clearance in all places. 5. Tighten the cylinder head flange nuts for both the front and rear head pipes. 6. Tighten both the EGT and O2 plugs on the front and rear head pipes. 7. Clean all fingerprints from the exhaust using a contact cleaner (or other non flammable cleaner). Fingerprints will leave stains on the pipe once the motorcycle is started. 8. You are now ready to start the motorcycle.

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Harley-Davidson Sportster 883/ 1200 Straightshot HS Exhaust system REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-12-2010

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STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL 1. Loosen the heat shield clamps on both the front and rear exhaust pipes. This allows easier access to the head pipe mounting nuts. 2. Remove the two head pipe mounting nuts from each flange, located at the cylinder head. 3. Remove the two bolts from each muffler body which attach the muffler bodies to the mounting bar. 4. Remove the clamp bolt which mounts the rear head Page 1 of 4 D445N Rev. 1.0 Sportster 883/1200 Straightshot HS Exhaust system Part #17815 U S A Congratulations, you have purchased the finest exhaust system available for your motorcycle. Your VANCE & HINES exhaust system is designed and crafted for maximum performance, a perfect fit, a great sound and unbeatable style! Please follow the installation instructions below and if you have any questions, feel free to call our technical help line (562) 926-5291. Attention Installer: (if other than owner): Please forward this instruction sheet to the purchaser of this product. These instructions contain valuable information necessary to the end user. Tools required for installation: 3/16″ & 5/16″ Allen wrenches 3/16″ & 5/16″ Allen & 1/2″ sockets 3/8″ Ratchet & Extensions T30 Torx driver 1/2″ Wrench 5/16″ nutdriver/flat blade screwdriver Ft/lb. & In/lb. Torque wrenches Snapring pliers pipe to the belt drive cover bracket and carefully remove both exhaust pipes from the motorcycle. 5. Remove the drive belt cover and take the bracket off the rear cover bolt, it will not be re-used. 6. Loosen the brake rod at the rear eyelet using a T30 Torx driver. 7. Remove the exhaust mounting bar, saving the three mount bolts and washers for re-use. 8. Using snapring pliers, carefully remove the flanges and circlips from the stock exhaust system. Save for re-use. NOTE: If circlips look bent or twisted replace them with new circlips. VANCE & HINES EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION 1. Check condition of stock exhaust gaskets. Replace if damaged or worn. Vance & Hines recommends you replace your gaskets with Screamin’ Eagle gaskets part number 17048-98. 2. Install and tighten supplied mounting bracket (stamped 356-P) using stock bolts and washers (Figure 1). Torque to 30-33 Ft/Lbs. NOTE: Support the rear of the bracket during tightening to insure it is aligned with the bottom edge of the frame. 3. Re-install drive belt cover. Torque to 1 x 3/8″ bolt 30-33 Ft/Lbs. 2 x 1/4″ bolts 80-120 In/Lbs. 4. Re-install brake rod eyelet using blue thread locking compound (Loctite® 243). There is a 1/2″ clearance hole in the bracket to allow access for tightening brake rod eyelet. Torque to 120/180 In/Lbs. (Figure 1). 5. Remove header pipes and heat shields from protective packaging. Place each heat shield on a non-abrasive surface such as a blanket or carpet. Using a felt tip pen, mark outside edge of each heat shield to show location of mounting clips where hose clamps will loop through (Figure 2). 6. Install circlips and flanges from the stock system onto both new head pipes.

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SUZUKI MOTORCYCLES Gsxr 600, Gsxr 750, Gsxr 1000 teak the lead

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 12-11-2010

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The launch of the sixth generation of Gsxr marked a shift in Suzuki’s emphasis on two fronts. One, the Gsxr 1000 now took the upper hand in the development stakes. Historically, the Gsxr 750 led the march-arriving first, gaining the most recent technology, absorbing the lion’s share of corporate pride-but by 2003 the Gsxr 1000 was in the lead. Two, the Gsxr 1000 represents another, more subtle shift for Suzuki engineering, in which the designers-the lucky guys who get to clothe these amazing machines-have more freedom of expression. With this generation, the designs turned edgier, sharper, more aggressive looking than ever. What’s more, the Gsxr 1000 K3 would be the proving ground for a host of changes brought to the Gsxr 600 and Gsxr 750 for 2004. In fact, nearly every upgrade to the smaller bikes appeared on the Gsxr 1000 a year before. But the real impetus for driving the Gsxr 1000 to the head of development and, indeed, shortening its development cycle was competition both on the track and in the showroom. For the track, it was understood that Superbike racing would revert to allowing 1000 cc four-cylinder bikes in place of the 750s that had been the limit since 1982. In 2002, Yoshimura and Mat Mladin barely lost the AMA Superbike crown to Nicky Hayden aboard the Honda RC5!. But it would be the RC’s swan song of competitiveness with the change to 1000 cc fours. To keep speeds in check, the AMA Superbike rules would require 1000 cc fours to have some additional limitations compared to the twins and triples. For example, “Cylinder heads may be ported and machined, but altering of valve angles will not be permitted; aftermarket valves, springs, retainers, and other valve-train components will be permitted; valves must be stock size and same basic material as original equipment; aftermarket camshafts will be permitted, but earn lift and resulting valve lift must be no greater than stock. “In addition, the “stock crankshaft must be retained, The only allowable modifications are balancing, polishing of bearing surfaces and attachment of accessory drives. Homologated transmission gear sets (one optional set of ratios per approved model) will be permitted. Optional sets will be price-controlled and must be available to any legitimate AMA Superbike competitor. Homologated fuel-injection throttle-body assemblies (one optional type per approved model) and aftermarket airboxes will be permitted. Modifications to throttle bodies will not be permitted. Optional throttle bodies will be price-controlled and must be available to any legitimate AMA Superbike competitor.” The thinking was simple: keep the liter bikes from sucking through massive throttle bodies, and the horsepower might not (and, it was hoped, would not) go through the roof. In preparation for racing, Suzuki moto wanted to make a host of small changes to the Gsxr 1000, but its motivation was also to keep the bike at the forefront of open-class street bikes. Suzuki engineers knew that Honda and Kawasaki were readying all-new models-the CBR 954 RR and the ZX 9 R had long since been vanquished-and rumor had it that Yamaha was ready with yet another push with the R1.It was the right time to make alterations to the Gsxr 1000. Heading the list was, as one might expect, a revised engine.

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2008-2009 HONDA CBR 1000 RR DUAL CANISTER SLIP-ON INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 22-11-2011

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INSURE THE EXHAUST SYSTEM AND EXHAUST COMPONENTS ARE FULLY COOLED. 2. INSURE THE MOTORCYCLE IS STABLE ON KICKSTAND OR REAR CENTERSTAND OR SERVICE TABLE. 3. REMOVE THE 3 PLASTIC BUTTONS HOLDING THE PLASTIC COVER OVER THE EXHAUST SERVO. (THIS IS LOCATED DIRECTLY INSIDE THE RIGHT REAR PASSENGER PEG BRACKET) DETACH THE CABLE END FROM THE SERVOnWHEEL AND REMOVE THE ENTIRE CABLE FROM THE RETAINING CLIP. THE ENTIREnCABLE WILL NOW REMOVE WITH THE REST OF THE EXHAUST.REPLACE THE PLASTIC COVER FOR THE SERVO AND REINSTALL THE 3 PLASTIC BUTTONS. 6. REMOVE THE STOCK MUFFLER MOUNTING BOLT. REMOVE 7. REMOVE THE STOCK EXHAUST CLAMP. (IT IS NOT UNCOMMON FOR THE CLAMP BOLT TO BREAK DURING REMOVAL.)b8. REMOVE THE ENTIRE STOCK EXHAUST ASSEMBLY. BE CAREFUL NOT TO SCRATCH THE SWING ARM DURING REMOVAL. 9. REMOVE THE STOCK EXHAUST GASKET FROM HEADER PIPE IF IT DID NOT COME OFF WITH THE STOCK EXHAUST. THIS GASKET WILL
NOT BE USED. 10. PREASSEMBLE THE HYPERFLO EXHAUST BEFORE INSTALLING. HYPERFLO RECOMMENDS YOU DO THIS PORTION ON CARPET OR A CLEAN PADDED AREA. YOU MAY ALSO USE THE PLASTIC BUBBLE PACKAGING AS A PAD TO PROTECT THE CANISTERS DURING PREASSEMBLY. 11. PREASSEMBLE THE LARGE DIAMETER CAN TO THE S-PIPE FIRST. INSTALL THE SPRING ON THE CANISTER FIRST AND PULL AWAY FROM THE CANISTER TO INSURE YOU DO NOT SCRATCH THE CANISTER

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