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HONDA 450E/ S MOUNTING AND ARS ADJUSTMENT INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 24-12-2011

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MULTI-RATE SPRINGS AND THE ARS SYSTEM Depending on the application dual–rate springs are fitted on the shocks. Dual-rate springs are just that– a spring set with two separate rates. This is done with a short spring stacked on a longer spring. As both springs collapse they produce a soft, or initial, rate. The spring set will maintain this initial rate until the short spring stops compressing. At that point, the spring rate “crosses over” to the stiffer, or final, rate. This multi-rate system allows a soft initial rate for comfort on small bumps, but has the capability of soaking up the big pot-holes and other off road hazards. ARS stands for Adjustable Rate Suspension. ARS is available on some dual-rate spring 4-wheel ATV shocks. ARS differs from spring preload. The ARS system allows the rider to increase or decrease the load-carrying capacity of the shocks by turning a lever. Depending on the application and spring set, the rider can increase the load capacity of the shocks up to 50 percent. The average preloader that makes a half-inch increase in preload will HONDA 450E/S MOUNTING & ARS ADJUSTMENT INSTRUCTIONS Continued on next page. #TRX450 – 5/28/99 #TRX450 – 5/28/99 Fig. 1. Front shock installation. Note that the shock body is at the top with the shaft pointing down. ARS shown is in the unloaded position. Fig. 2. Rear shock mounting with ARS. Position the lever so that it will not come in contact with any vehicle parts around it. The cup can be rotated to reposition the lever if necessary.
increase the capacity of the shocks to only about 5 to 10 percent. ARS allows the shocks to be correct for solo riding, but still handle the increased weight of an added load. ARS can also be employed to stiffen the rates for aggressive riding. The ARS system consists of an indexing lever and a stepped cup that contains the short spring of the dual- rate. The position of the lever in relation to the steps in the cup determines how long the spring set remains on the soft, or initial, spring rate. On most ARS applications, four positions can be selected from full stiff to full soft. Indexing is done in a matter of seconds by rotating the lever or the cup by hand. Indexing the cup to the lever is usually preferable to avoid interference. Adjustment of the ARS system should only be made while the vehicle is unloaded to reduce the load on the springs. NOTE: It is important to make sure that a step in the cup is positioned directly over the tang on the lever. This will prevent damage to the cup and/or lever that can be caused by making partial contact between the tang and a step. In addition, make sure that the lever will not contact any vehicle parts around it, as the suspension moves up. TUNING TIPS—The “softest” setting on the ARS does not mean that the ride will be the most comfortable at that setting. It means that this is the softest spring setting which would be employed on smooth trails or without a load. Excessive suspension bottoming caused by rough conditions or by the addition of a large load will cause a harsh ride when the shock is adjusted to this setting. To eliminate this bottoming, adjust the ARS to the stiffer positions for a more comfortable ride. Hence, sometimes “stiffer is softer.” NITROGEN PRESSURES IN EMULSION SHOCKS

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Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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KTM Enduro Engineering Shock Spring Removal And Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

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1 Place motorcycle on a stand so that the rear wheel is off the ground. 2 Remove the upper shock bolt. (Figure 1) 3 Remove the lower shock bolt. (Figure 2) 4 Remove the shock from the motorcycle by sliding it down and out the right rear side of the bike. (Figure 3) 5 Place the shock upside down in a vice with soft jaws. Loosen the retaining ring lock screw with a 4mm Allen wrench. (Figure 4) 6 Using EE KTM shock wrench #22-300 (Figure 5), loosen the retaining collar enough to provide ¾ clearance between the bottom of the spring and the spring retaining collar. (Figure 6) 7 Push the spring retaining collar down to access the retaining clip. (Figure 7) 8 Remove the retaining clip. 9 Remove the spring retaining collar by sliding it up and off of the shock clevis. (Figure 8) 10 Slide the shock spring up and off of the shock. 11 Slide the new spring onto the shock. It should be sitting on the adjusting collar. 12 Re-install the spring retaining collar by sliding it over the clevis far enough to allow the retaining clip to be installed. 13 Install the retaining clip. Make sure that it is fully seated in the groove. 14 Slide the spring retaining collar up until it bottoms out on the retaining clip. 15 Tighten the spring adjusting collar until the bottom of the spring contacts the spring retaining collar. Turn the spring adjusting collar a couple more turns to put a small amount of pre-load on the spring. 16 Remove the shock from the vice and re-install it on the bike by reversing removal steps. Make sure to torque the upper and lower shock bolts to the manufacturer’s torque spec. 17 Set static and race sag as specified in your owner’s manual. Remember to torque the adjusting collar lock screw to manufacturer’s specification

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Honda ATV 650 Lift Kit REMOVAL AND Installation

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 14-01-2012

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Place jack under center on the ATV front end and lift until front wheels clear the ground. Be careful to support ATV properly so that it is secure, but so that the A-arms and shocks can droop to full extension. 2. Remove front wheels and shocks. 3. Using a shock spring compressor, compress the spring on the shock and remove the spring retaining ring.
CAUTION: The spring is installed under tension. Failure to use a shock spring compressor could cause loss of control of the spring, which could unload rapidly causing bodily injury. If you do not have a shock spring compressor you should acquire one or take it to a dealer or professional mechanic for installation of the stiffeners. 4. Remove the spring. 5. Insert the smaller front spring stiffener onto the shock with the lip of the spring stop, on the shock, mating into the recessed portion of the spring stiffener. 6. Slide the spring back onto the shock and it should rest on the lip of the spring stiffener.
7. Reattach the spring retaining ring. 8. Repeat steps for the opposite side. Once springs are complete reattach the top of the shock to the top shock mount on the ATV and the spring stiffener will be closest to the A-arm. 9. Take two of the “L” brackets and connect them to the bottom of the shock, the part that connects to the A-arms. 10. There is a top and bottom to the “L” bracket. See the diagram

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ATK 50MX INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT TIPS

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Filed Under (Atk) by admin on 01-11-2010

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PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT— On some Works shocks a threaded preload is standard. This allows the adjustment of the ride height of the motorcycle. The preload is changed by turning a threaded nut down towards the spring (higher ride height) or up away from the spring (lower ride height). The nut is a right-hand thread. CHECKING RIDE HEIGHT— 1. With the bike unloaded on the side stand and the shock fully extended, have an assistant measure from a point at the axle (center point) to a point on the frame, fender or bodywork directly above it. Record this measurement. 2. With the bike off the stand and the rider in the seat, bounce on the suspension and let the bike settle. Have the assistant measure from the same two points. Subtract the second measurement from the first. HM CRX50 / BAJA & ATK 50MX INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT TIPS Continued on next page. #HM50 – 5/27/99 #HM50 – 5/27/99 To Front Valve Mounting channel Spacer Flange Shock eye Top View of Shock Mount Fig. 1 Top view of upper shock mount. The flange on the shock bushing must face toward the spacer. The valve should point toward the front of the bike Fig. 1 Top view of upper shock mount. The flange on the shock bushing must face toward the spacer. The valve should point toward the front of the bike 3. The amount of settle, or “sag” is a function of the wheel travel. It should only be between 1/4 and 1/3 of the total travel. 4. If the difference is less than the minimum, reduce the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. 5. If the difference is more than the maximum, increase the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. Note: If the ride height is too low, the shock will bottom unnecessarily, resulting in a harsh ride. If the ride height is too high, the shock will “top out” too easily when rebounding from a bump or under hard deceleration. NITROGEN PRESSURES IN EMULSION SHOCKS CAUTION: The pressure in these shocks cannot successfully be checked. Concerns with the gauge volume and the gas volume in the shock body create a situation where you cannot accurately determine what pressure was in the shock. In addition when the pressure is lowered (i.e. checking the pressure) the gas and some of the shock oil escapes into the gauge. It is possible to lose a large percentage of the shock oil by depressing the core of a charged shock to the atmosphere. Please note that in order to check the pressure, some of the gas must escape and fill the gauge assembly. The volume of the gas pocket is about half the size of your thumb, so a very small volume change results in a large pressure drop. Because the gauges’ volumes vary, it is not possible to deduce the actual pressure in the shock prior to attaching the gauge. Therefore it is imperative that any attempt to check pressure be accompanied by the capability of refilling the shock. In other words: If you don’t have a nitrogen source handy, don’t check the pressure! PRESSURIZING EMULSION SHOCKS The pressure setting for Works gas shocks is 250 p.s.i. of dry nitrogen. To pressurize a shock with some residual pressure in it, bring the gauge manifold up to 250 p.s.i. and depress the core with the T-handle. This will either equalize the pressure or refill the shock without transferring oil from the shock into the gauge assembly. The best gauges for this purpose screw on to the valve and incorporate a T-handled core depressor to isolate the shock from the gauge. This allows a leak-free separation once the desired pressure is reached. For simplified operation, an extra valve is provided for the filling apparatus, allowing pressure adjustment with the gauge in place. Works offers a suitable gauge and filling manifold. Most motorcycle shops that deal with dirt bikes can pressurize the shock

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KAWASAKI TERYX 750 CLUTCH KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove both seats from the vehicle. Next, remove the passenger side lower body panel. There is a mixture of Philips head screws and also plastic push pin fasteners that have to be removed. 2. With the side panel off, the next item to remove is the plastic housing over the engine. These are all “push in” style plastic clips that hold it in place. Once all the pins are out, you can slide the housing off and set it aside. 3. Now the lower long plastic panel under the seat has to be removed (again mainly plastic push clips to remove) . Once they are all out, carefully remove and set aside. 4. Next, remove the fuel tank. Remove the two lines on the top of the tank. There are two straps that hold the tank in place. Remove the bolt from each strap, remove the straps, and lift the fuel tank out. 5. Now the bracket that holds the fuel pump on has to be removed. There are two bolts here to take out. Once this is done, mark the two wires to the coil and disconnect them. Set the bracket out of the way . 6. Next, the clutch cover bolts can be removed and the norkel on the housing can be loosened and i Teryx 750 Clutch Kit Instructions 5/1/09 removed. Take the clutch cove off and set out of the way. 7. With the clutch visible, you can remove the secondary clutch with a large impact wrench and metric socket . 8. Remove the bolt from the primary clutch. This is a left hand thread on the bolt. Next you will need a Kawasaki drive clutch puller (part #352251) to pop the clutch loose. If you do not have a puller, the spring cap can be removed on the vehicle and the weights can be changed out in there as well. 9. With the clutches sitting on the bench, remove the bolts that hold on the spring cover. Remove the stock spring and the stock weights 10. After reading the directions on the new weights, add the correct amount of weight to each clutch weight and install them in the clutch. Place the weight to the left side in the clutch pocket and then install the aluminum spacer. Repeat this process for the other three weights. 11. Install the new spring supplied in the kit and install the spring cover, paying close attention to the arrows on the cover. 12. Next, remove the stock spring from the secondary. It is recommended that you use the TEAM Compression tool (part # 930001) for this. With the clutch on the compression tool, compress the spring retainer down far enough to remove the snap ring with the needle-nose pliers . Slowly back off the t-handle and remove the tool.

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Kawasaki Exhausts – ZX-6 ZX-10 Zx-14 Exhaust – Slip-ons INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo

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2005-2007 KTM MOTORCYCLE REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 21-11-2010

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Adjustments -Take notice of the position of the compression adjustment 1 ! -Count the amount of clicks by turning the adjustment screw clockwise till fully closed. -Remove the rubber cap out of the axleclamp. -Take notice of the position of the rebound adjustment 2 ! -Count the amount of clicks by turning the adjustment screw clockwise till fully closed. -For the standard position see setting list. Position of the compression and rebound adjustment -Set the rebound position 1 , see KTM-Owners manual. -Assemble the rubber cap. -Set the compression position 2 , see KTM-Owners manual. 1 2 2-22 Repair manual WP Fork “Closed Cartridge” Art.No.: 3.211.199-E Explanation of the spring preload -Total spring length without the spacers, see chapter inspection of the spring! -Spring length with spacers 1 , see setting list. -Spring with the spacers. 1 . -The spring is assembled in the front fork leg. NOTE: the distance of “B” is less then the length of “A”. A – B = Spring preload A 1 1 B 2-23 Air release screw -Place the motorcycle on the stand. NOTE: the front wheel must be lift of the floor! -Unscrew the air release screw 1 of the screw cap on top of the front fork and tighten after approx. 10 seconds the air release screw. Recommended periodic maintenance and inspection of the 4860 SX/SXS/SMR front fork 1 A 100 liter fuel consumption is equivalent to approx. 15 operating hours Clean dust scrapers (after 1 hour) Bleed fork legs regularly – after every cleaning Check the inner tubes on scratches / leakage Visual check of damaging of the outer-tubes / replace if necessary Complete service without disass. the closed cartridge of the fork Complete service including the closed cartridge of the front fork Dismounting the fork -Place your motorcycle on a stand. -Notice the position of the front fork in the triple-clamps. NOTE: To remove the front fork. Read your KTM Instruction Manual or Workshop Manual. 3-3 Mounting the fork -Clean the innerside of the triple-clamps with brake cleaner. -Slide both fork legs into the triple-clamps. NOTE: Pay attention to the position of the fork legs. Standard riding height! NOTE: The maximum riding height is the level of the second groove! -Tighten the middle bolt of the lower triple clamp to a torque of 17 Nm! -Tighten the first bolt of the lower triple clamp to a torque of 17 Nm! -Tighten the third bolt of the lower triple clamp to a torque of 17 Nm!

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KTM WP FORK 4860 MXMA CLOSED CARTRIDGE REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 13-02-2011

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Adjustments -Take notice of the position of the compression adjustment 1 ! -Count the amount of clicks by turning the adjustment screw clockwise till fully closed. -Remove the rubber cap out of the axleclamp. -Take notice of the position of the rebound adjustment 2 ! -Count the amount of clicks by turning the adjustment screw clockwise till fully closed. -For the standard position see setting list. Position of the compression and rebound adjustment -Set the rebound position 1 , see KTM-Owners manual. -Assemble the rubber cap. -Set the compression position 2 , see KTM-Owners manual. 1 22-22 Repair manual WP Fork “Closed Cartridge” Art.No.: 3.211.199-E Explanation of the spring preload -Total spring length without the spacers, see chapter inspection of the spring! -Spring length with spacers 1 , see setting list. -Spring with the spacers. 1 . -The spring is assembled in the front fork leg. NOTE: the distance of “B” is less then the length of “A”. A – B = Spring preload A 1 1 B2-23 Air release screw -Place the motorcycle on the stand. NOTE: the front wheel must be lift of the floor! -Unscrew the air release screw 1 of the screw cap on top of the front fork and tighten after approx. 10 seconds the air release screw. Recommended periodic maintenance and inspection of the 4860 SX/SXS/SMR front fork 1 A 100 liter fuel consumption is equivalent to approx. 15 operating hours Clean dust scrapers (after 1 hour) Bleed fork legs regularly – after every cleaning Check the inner tubes on scratches / leakage Visual check of damaging of the outer-tubes / replace if necessary Complete service without disass. the closed cartridge of the fork Complete service including the closed cartridge of the front fork

HARLEY DAVIDSON FL SOFTAIL PROFILE LOW FRONT SUSPENSION KIT INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Fork Spring Removal 1. Elevate and support the vehicle so the front tire is off the floor and the forks are fully extended. 4 9 3 1 10 11 2 5 6 7 8 is04004 1. Slider tube cap 2. Spacer washer 3. Oil seal 4. Clamp bolt and washer 5. Fork tube plug 6. O-ring 7. Fork spring 8. Tight-wound end of spring 9. Fork slider tube 10. Fork slider 11. Drain screw and washer Figure 1. Front Fork NOTE Remove the brake caliper from the fork slider. DO NOT remove the brake line from the caliper. 2. Remove the front wheel. See FRONT WHEEL: FLSTC/FLSTF/FLSTN in the Service Manual. 3. Remove the front fender. See FRONT FENDER in the Service Manual. 4. See Figure 1. Remove the slider tube cap (1), spacer (2) and oil seal (3) from the top of one fork side. Save the cap and spacer. The oil seal can be discarded. 5. Loosen the clamp bolt (4) and pull the fork from the brackets. 6. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 for the other fork side. -J00280 1 of 4 Wear saf ety glasses or gog gles when ser vicing f ork assembly. Do not remove slider tube caps without relieving spring preload or caps and springs can fly out, which could result in death or serious injury. (00297a) NOTE Be careful not to damage the O-ring. 7. See Figure 1. Remove the fork tube plug (5) and O-ring (6). Pull the spring (7) out of the slider tube (9). Remove the drain screw and washer (11), and drain the fork. Reinstall the drain screw and washer, and tighten to 52-78 in-lbs (5.9-8.9 Nm). 8. Repeat Step 7 for the other fork side. NOTE The Profile® Low Front Suspension Kit requires a different amount of H-D TYPE E FORK OIL than is listed in the Service Manual. NOTE Measure the oil level from the top of the fork tube with the fork spring removed and the fork fully compressed. 9. See FRONT FORK OIL in the Service Manual, but substitute the measures below. Fill the forks with Harley- Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL: • 1986 through 1999 models: •11.7 oz (345 cc) of oil, or •5.2 inch (132 mm) from top of oil level to top of tube. • 2000 and later models: •13.4 oz (396 cc) of oil, or •4.1 inch (104 mm) from top of oil level to top of tube. Fork Spring Installation 1. Insert a new Profile Low spring (7) from the kit into each slider tube (9), with the tight-wound portion (8) toward the bottom of the fork slider. NOTE Be careful not to damage the O-ring. 2. Install the fork tube plug (5) and O-ring (6) assembly into the slider tube and tighten securely. Be sure that one flat on each fork tube plug faces toward the inside of the fork. 3. Insert both fork side assemblies up through the slider covers, the fork stem and bracket, and the upper bracket. 4. Obtain two new oil seals (3), H-D Part Number 45733-48, and the spacer washers (2) and slider tube caps (1) saved earlier. Place an oil seal, followed by a spacer washer, onto each fork tube plug. 5. Insert the threads of a slider tube cap through each washer and seal, and into the fork tube plugs. Tighten to 40-60 ft- lbs (54.2-81.3 Nm). 6. Tighten the fork stem bracket clamp bolts (4) to 30-35 ft- lbs (40.7-47.5 Nm). 7. Install the front fender. See FRONT FENDER in the Service Manual. Install the front wheel and brake caliper. See FRONT WHEEL: FLSTC/FLSTF/FLSTN in the Service Manual. Jiffy Stand Removal/Installation 1. Move the jiffy stand to the retracted (up) position. Wear safety glasses or goggles when removing or installing spring. Spring tension can cause spring, attached components and/or hand tools to fly out which could result in death or serious injury. (00477c) 2. See Figure 3. Unfasten the jiffy stand leg spring (A) from the vehicle. Remove the hex bolt (B), lock washer (C), flat washer (D) and leg stop (E) from the threaded end of the jiffy stand leg. Discard the jiffy stand leg, but retain all other components. 3. Clean and inspect the jiffy stand attaching parts and mounting bracket for wear or damage. If parts replacement is necessary, refer to the Jiffy Stand section of your Service Manual for replacement procedures

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