kawasaki barako timing mark position

You search Auto repair manual PDF kawasaki barako timing mark position, if there are search results will appear below. If search results do not exist, please search by others keyword.



  kawasaki barako timing mark position Direct Download speed 5282 Kb/s

  kawasaki barako timing mark position Full Version speed 6162 Kb/s



SUZUKI SV 1000 RADIATOR (COOLING SYSTEM) SERVICE MANUAL

0

Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 26-02-2011

download
FI SYSTEM MALFUNCTION CODE AND DEFECTIVE CONDITION MALFUNCTION CODE DETECTED ITEM DETECTED FAILURE CONDITION CHECK FOR COO NO FAULT C11 Camshaft position sen- sor The signal does not reach ECM for more than 3 sec . after receiving the starter signal . The camshaft position sensor wiring and mechanical parts (Camshaft position sensor, intake cam pin, wiring/coupler con- nection) C12 Crankshaft position sensor The signal does not reach ECM for more than 2 sec . after receiving the starter signal . The crankshaft position sensor wiring and mechanical parts (Crankshaft position sensor, wiring/coupler connection) C13 Intake air pressure sensor The sensor should produce following voltage . (0.50 V < sensor voltage < 4 .85 V) Without the above range, C13 is indicated. Intake air pressure sensor, wiring/coupler connection C14 Throttle position sen- sor The sensor should produce following voltage . (0.20 V < sensor voltage < 4 .80 V) Without the above range, C14 is indicated. Throttle position sensor, wiring/coupler connection C15 Engine coolant temperature sensor The sensor voltage should be the following. (0.15 V <_ sensor voltage < 4 .5 V) Without the above range, C15 is indicated. Engine coolant temperature sensor, wiring/coupler connection C21 Intake air temperature sensor The sensor voltage should be the following. (0.15 V < sensor voltage < 4 .5 V) Without the above range, C21 is indicated. Intake air temperature sensor, wiring/coupler connection C22 Atmospheric pressure sensor The sensor voltage should be the following. (0.50 V < sensor voltage < 4 .5 V) Without the above range, C22 is indicated. Atm. pressure sensor, wiring/coupler connection C23 Tip over sensor The sensor voltage should be the following for more than 2 sec . after ignition switch turns ON . (0 .20 V < sensor voltage < 4 .80 V) Without the above value, C23 is indicated. Tip over sensor, wiring/coupler connection C24 or C25 Ignition signalCrankshaft position sensor signal is produced and ECM determines the ignition signal but signal from ignition coil is interrupted continuous by 4 times or more. In this case, the code C24 or C25 is indicated. Ignition coil, wiring/coupler connection, power supply from the battery SERVICING INFORMATION 8 .3 C28 Secondary throttle valve actuator No operating voltage is supplied from the ECM, C28 is indicated. STVA can not operate. STVA lead wire/coupler, STVA C29 Secondary throttle valve position sensor The sensor should produce following voltage . (0.10 V < sensor voltage < 4 .90 V) Without the above range, C29 is indicated . Secondary throttle position sensor, wiring/coupler connection C31 Gear position signalGear position signal voltage should be higher than the following for more than 2 seconds. (Gear position switch voltage >_ 0 .6 V) Without the above value, C31 is indicated. Gear position sensor, wiring/coupler connection, gearshift cam, etc. C32 or C33 Fuel injector Crankshaft position sensor signal is produced and ECM determines the injection signal but fuel injection signal is interrupted continuous by 4 times or more. In this case, the code C32 or C33 is indicated. Injector, wiring/coupler connection, power supply to the injector C41 Fuel pump relay No voltage is applied to fuel pump although fuel pump relay is turned ON, or voltage is applied to fuel pump although fuel pump relay is turned OFF . Fuel pump relay, connecting lead, power source to fuel pump relay C42 Ignition switchIgnition switch signal is not input in the ECM . Ignition switch, lead wire/coupler C44 Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) [For E-02, 19] During 02 feedback control, 02 sensor voltage is higher or lower than the specification . No signal is detected during engine operation or no electrical power is supplied from the battery . HO2S lead wire/coupler connection Battery voltage supply to the HO2S C49 PAIR control solenoid valve (PAIR valve) When no operating voltage is supplied from the ECM, C49 is indicated. PAIR valve can not operate. PAIR valve lead wire/coupler

Incoming search terms:

ULTIMA IGNITION MODULE AND KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL FOR HARLEY DAVIDSON

0

Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-03-2011

download
Disconnect battery. 2. Mark location of timing plate in relation to inside of cam cover. This will give a starting point for timing on new module. Remove old ignition if applicable (see manual) Clymer, Haynes. 3. If your bike is not equipped with timing rotor M/W# 53-528 OEM#32402-83 you must buy one (included in kit). Also a single fire coil is needed (included in kit) M/W# 53-632. Any single fire coil rated 2-4 ohms can be used. NO SOLID CORE PLUG WIRES (copper, silver) they will damage the unit. 4. Install module: helpful hints, early model nose cones, i.e. Shovel Heads, the hole for the wire may need to be drilled out. Align with previously scripted mark for timing. Use lockwashers for stand offs for correct clearance of cover plate. Run wire loom. 5. Connect wires, see wiring diagram. Tape unused wires, green or brown. 12v to tach (brown) will damage module. Set timing. 1996 and later should not be timed 20˚ BTDC as the OEM module, but at 35˚ BTDC. Use this mark when using timing light. If VOESswitch is not used you must ground VOES wire (green) while timing. Refer to manual for correct identification of timing marks. At start up and timing, set spark advance in middle position. FUNCTION SWITCHES LED timing indicator light: When out, shows TDC. When ignition is on, LED will light up. When engine is cranking LED will blink. Electric Start/Kickstart: Set accordingly. VOES/Race mode: VOES switch lets the motor run smoother and improves gas mileage. If you don’t use it or add one tape up green wire and switch to race. VOES switch to use, M/W# 53-652. Spark advance: High compression motors should use race mode and 93 octane or better gas. Changing from VOES to race changes advance curves. Agood rule of thumb is if the engine knocks when throttle is applied in high gear, turn back spark advance curve until it stops engine knock. RPMlimiter: Set at desired RPM to cut engine power. Rear Cylinder: This is for racing and should be set at a dyno. +/-5˚. Rear cylinder timing is achieved through this adjuster. Most should dial to middle setting and leave alone. After all switches are set, install cover with supplied gasket and feel the increased performance of a solid state single fire ignition. Again, we remind you, if you don’t feel confident about installing this unit, let a qualified mechanic do it and be assured you are getting the best performance and gas mileage possible.

Incoming search terms:

2003 Ducati ST4s Timing Belt Adjustment

0

Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 31-10-2010

download
This instruction on cam belt adjustment starts after you remove the fairing pieces. Plan on an hour to remove these. Since you are performing your own service, buying Ducati belts may not be that expensive. There may be another belt source, but I have not confirmed this for the 996 engine of the 02-03 ST4s. Fig 1 – ST4s ready for belt adj./ repl. Fig 2 – Crank tool installed. See dwg. 1) Ensure maximum of ½ tank of gas. Fuel will leak into the charcoal canister, then onto the floor if the tank is over half full and the tank is tilted up on its hinge. So put the tank up on its hinge. 2) Remove spark plugs. Cover sparkplug wells with boots or rags. This is a great time to toss out those Champions for a set of NGK DCPR8E’s. 3) Remove the front shield from the horizontal cylinder head. 4) Remove crankshaft cover on Riders LH side and insert crank tool. A crank tool can be made by following the drawing at the end of this document. See Fig 2 above. The flat head screws used are kind of soft so beware on their removal. 5) Remove oil pressure sending unit cable and remove oil sending unit. No oil should pour out. 6) Remove battery and remove bolts fastening battery box to engine/frame. You can let the battery box dangle or partially support it via a bungee cord. Be careful of the cable on the ground of the ECU. By dangling the battery box excess stress could be placed on this cables connector and you don’t want to troubleshoot an intermittent electrical issue. 7) Remove cam belt covers. The two covers over the cams are real easy. The center piece is removed by pulling it down. You may have to move some hoses and cables out Timing belt adj. doc 1
of the way because it is a tight fit. Removing the oil pressure sending unit gave clearance for the removal. Fig 1 shows bike ready to be worked on. On the Rider’s LH is a window on the case cover. Using a flashlight to illuminate the area, marks can be rotated into view using the engine turning tool. There are two marks denoting the TDC of each of the cylinders. When a mark in the window aligns with the pointer, look at the crank driving pulley on the Rider’s RH of the engine. If the driving pulley’s mark is aligned with the pointer on the engine case, you are at TDC horizontal cylinder. If the pulley mark and the pointer on the engine do not align, rotate the engine until the mark in the window on the Rider’s LH side case cover aligns as well as the pulley’s mark and the engine’s pointer. Fig 3 shows the engine pulley and pointer. You can check that the horizontal piston is at TDC by inserting a welding rod into the spark plug well and touch the top of the piston with it to sense its position. Timing marks on cam pulleys are clearly stamped on all four pulleys. When the crank driving pulley aligns with its corresponding pointer on the engine case and the marks on the pulleys align with their corresponding marks on both cylinders, you are in position for belt adjustment and replacement

Incoming search terms:

4-STROKE TRIUMPH SINGLE CYLINDER MOTORCYCLES ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

0

Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 27-10-2010

download
1. Remove the petrol tank (and seat if necessary) to gain access to the ignition coil, condensor and wiring. 2. For safety, disconnect the battery, if fitted (preferably both terminals). 3. Remove the spark plug. 4. Remove the alternator rotor cover (if fitted). 5. Loosen the auto-advance centre bolt. Rotate the engine to the correct full advance timing position for your machine (see table on page 6), using one of these methods: • Models from 1967 on: use the marks provided for strobe timing on the rotor & chaincase (inside the rotor cover). Unless these marks are known to be accurate it is recommended that they are checked for correct alignment. These marks should line up at the full advance position, check using one of the methods below and, if necessary, re-mark the rotor. • Models from 1969 on: use the timing plug on the left-hand crankcase • Use a degree disc on the crankshaft / camshaft (see table on page 6) • Use a dial guage down the spark plug hole (see table on page 6) 5. Remove kickstart, gear lever and outer timing cover. 6. Remove the contact-breaker plate and lead from the outer timing cover. 7. Taking the ignition trigger assembly, insert a small cable tie into the two holes in front of the connector block on the ignition trigger. This will be used later to secure the two wires to the plate. 8. Fit the ignition trigger plate with the adjustable slots at approx. 6 & 12 o’clock, using the original pillar fixings & washers, positioned in the centre of the slots (to allow for adjustment in either direction). Handle the trigger with care. • RED EARTHING WIRE • CRIMP CONNECTORS & INSULATORS • LARGE & SMALL CABLE TIES • CABLE TIE ADHESIVE MOUNTING BASE 3
9. Remove the centre bolt securing the auto-advance unit. Remove the complete auto-advance unit with an extractor bolt or by tapping it gently sideways. 10. Fit the magnetic rotor in place of the auto-advance unit, with the magnets/ red marks positioned at approx. 3 & 9 o’clock. The magnetic rotor has a male taper which fits into the taper in the end of the camshaft. There is no keyway, allowing it to be fitted in any desired position. 11. Using the ¼” washer and the appropriate bolt (UNF or BSF), pass the bolt through the centre of the magnetic rotor and into the thread in the camshaft. Finger tighten only at this stage. The magnetic rotor centre thread (metric M8) is provided for attaching a puller, if the rotor should need to be removed for engine servicing, etc. 12. Replace the outer timing cover, gear lever & kickstart. 13. Check that the engine is still at the correct full advance position, then adjust the magnetic rotor position so that one of the red marks is centrally behind the static timing hole at 9 o’clock (see fig. 4, page 7). If your machine’s camshaft rotates clockwise, refer to fig. 3. Gently tap the rotor into the taper & tighten the centre bolt, using a 3/16″ allen key. WIRING: 14. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. Avoid coiling up surplus lead.

Incoming search terms:

Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

0

Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

download
Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

Incoming search terms:

SUZUKI SV1000/ S SERVICE MANUAL Supplimentary

0

Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 26-02-2011

download
CHASSIS BOLT AND NUT Check that all chassis bolts and nuts are tightened to their specified torque. (Refer to below and page 2-29 of SV1000S Service manual for the locations of the following nuts and bolts on the motorcycle.) CHASSIS FRONT FORK REMOUNTING Align the upper surface A of the inner tube with the upper surface B of the steering stem upper bracket. Tighten initially at 1 000 km (600 miles, 1 month) and every 6 000 km (4 000 miles, 6 months) thereafter. ITEM N·m kgf-m lb-ft 1 Handlebar clamp bolt 23 2.3 16.5 2 Handlebar holder set nut 45 4.5 32.5 SV1000K3 5 SUSPENSION SETTING After installing the front fork, adjust the spring pre-load and damping force as follows. SPRING PRE-LOAD ADJUSTMENT There are eight grooves on the spring adjuster. Position 1 provides the maximum spring pre-load and position 8 provides the minimum spring pre-load. STD position: 7 DAMPING FORCE ADJUSTMENT Rebound damping force Fully turn the damping force adjuster 1 clockwise. It is at stiffest position and turn it out to standard setting position. STD position: 1 and 1/4 turns out from stiffest position Compression damping force Fully turn the damping force adjuster 2 clockwise. It is at stiffest position and turn it out to standard setting position. STD position: 1 turn out from stiffest position STANDARD FRONT SUSPENSION SETTING ! FRONT Spring pre-load adjuster Damping force adjuster Rebound Compression Solo and dual riding 7 1 and 1/4 turns out from stiffest position 1 turn out from stiffest position Be sure to adjust the spring pre-load and damping force on both front fork legs equally. 6 SV1000K3 HANDLEBARS REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY Remove the handlebar balancer 1. NOTE: Do not remove the handlebar balancer mounting screw before removing the handlebar balancer. Slightly loosen the mounting screw, and then pull the balancer assembly out of handlebars. Remove the rear view mirror 2. Disconnect the front brake light switch coupler 3. Remove the front brake master cylinder. Remove the right handlebar switch 4 and throttle grip 5. Disconnect the clutch switch lead wires 6. Remove the left handlebar switch 7. Remove the rear view mirror 8. Remove the clutch master cylinder. Remove the handlebar clamp caps

Harley-Davidson Electronic Ignition Module Installation instructions

0

Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-04-2012

download
Step 1: Switch main dashboard switch to “off” position (Ignition& light switch) Step 2: Disconnect negative (ground) cable from the Battery Step 3: Remove the Condenser and Breaker points from the circuit breaker timing base. Step 4: Disconnect advance/ retard cable from timing base Step 5: Remove timing base from timer shaft and housing (see your manual for instructions) Step 6: Remove circuit breaker wire stud or circuit breaker to coil wire assembly from timing base Step 7: Remove circuit breaker wire from Ignition coil, and mark terminal on coil with piece of tape. Step 8: Install the Electronic Ignition Module on the timing base. Mount this short black wire to one on the timer base screws by keeping some slack in this wire so the timing base can turn free. Solder the flag terminal to this short black wire and mount it under the timer to motor bolt. This way of mounting provides a much better grounding. Do NOT use the screws (number 1 or 2 screws from picture below) from the timing base!!!! Step 9: Now three wires pass this hole via the rubber grommet. Figure 1 Figure 2 Step 10: Reinstall the timer base on the timer shaft housing, and keep some slack in the wires before protruding the hole in the timer shaft housing, and secure with ground spring and cover retainer. Reconnect the advance/retard cable to the timer base. Step 11: Route the two long wires to the ignition coil. Check in the HD service manual for a proper route to the ignition coil. (Keep away from hot surfaces like exhaust systems). Cut the wires to the exact length necessary for mounting. Step 12: Determine the exact length of the wire loom. Keep in mind that one end of the loom enters the timer shaft housing by 1cm. Cut the loom to the proper length. Step 13: Insert both wires in the loom. Strip both wire ends and solder the two flag terminals on the wires. Step 14: Connect the red wire to the ignition coil, on the terminal where the 6 or 12 volt is supplied to. This terminal has at minimum one wire connected which runs to the main switch. Step 15: Connect the black wire to the ignition coil on the terminal which is empty, and has piece of tape on it. (Old place where the circuit breaker wire was connected to) Step 16: Install the trigger rotor on the timer shaft cam, and tighten the hex screw by using the hex key tool. Do not over tighten the screw! Step 17: Check for clearance between trigger rotor and Electronic Ignition Module. Appropriate clearance is between 0,5mm and 1,5mm . Minor adjustments can be made by unlocking the two screws and slightly shift/move the Electronic Ignition Module. Check if the rotor moves free. Timing instructions: Remove the spark plugs from the engine, but keep them connected to the spark coil cables and engine ground. This enables normal operation of the spark, and prevents unwanted engine firing on compression stroke. See service manual or handbook for timing instructions of your model Step 18: Reconnect the negative (ground) cable to the battery. Step 19: Switch main power to “on” position. The red light in the Electronic Ignition Module might already light up. If not, turn the kick starter slowly. The red light is on while charging (closed points)the Ignition coil, facing solid metal of the trigger rotor. The light goes off (open points) when the end of the solid surface of the trigger rotor passes the centre of the Electronic Ignition Module. At that point a spark is generated by the coil

Incoming search terms:

Yamaha YZ 250F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

0

Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 30-12-2011

download
Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the intake camshaft cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Fit the half moon shaped retainers in the grooves of the Hot Cams camshaft bearings to ensure good fit, set retainers aside for the time. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets, bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head, and pack some in the camshaft bearings. Set the exhaust cam into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. The cam chain pulls the camshaft sprockets in a counter clockwise direction and the slack of the chain must be kept on the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. The exhaust cam has two timing marks on it. When correctly installed one mark will be at the 9 o’clock position and the other mark will be at the 12 o’clock position. When correctly timed the mark at 9 o’clock will be aligned with the valve cover gasket surface. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. The intake cam has two timing marks also. One at 12 o’clock and the other at 3 o’clock. When both cams are installed correctly, the valve cover gasket surface will form a straight line through the exhaust timing mark at 9 o’clock and the intake timing mark at 3 o’clock

Incoming search terms:

Honda GL1000 Timing Belts Removal / Installation Manual

0

Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 08-04-2011

download
Turn engine as described above until the T-1 mark aligns with engine block marks (it looks a little ‘out’ on the photo, it’s the angle). AND (this is important) the pulley marks align with the marks on the engine cover like here on LEFT side (seen from sitting on bike … remember). and RIGHT side. Mark this position on the central pulley and engine block. Now release the tensioner bolts. (*) And remove the belt. (*) (*) When you do that the right pulley (photo-left) will ‘wander/turn’ out of position when you remove the belt, as it is ‘riding’ on cam ‘slope’ (which is under the influence of the valve springs). Don’t worry. One thing you can do to calm your nerves and keep it in position: put the new belt loosely over the pulley and holding the pulley in the CORRECT POSITION (marks aligned) ‘strip’ a spanner to the frame. Do not use the spanner to turn the pulley. Use your hands … then ‘lock’ it with the spanner. (Make absolutely sure you do not turn (release/loosen) the bolt). And, here’s a nifty trick posted by Mooseheadm5 in another thread: “..one thing that made it super easy (and 3 reduced the anxiety level quite a bit) was that I loosened the tappet adjusters all the way [...snip...] you do not have to fight the valve springs much, plus the cams do not want to snap back or forward so you do not necessarily need to use Octane’s zip-tied wrench trick.” – Thanks, Moosehead . Release left tensioner bolts . Remove belt. Put on new belt. Check the tensioners or ‘tension rollers’. You may think they are ‘fine’: they ‘roll’ and don’t make funny sounds? You won’t know until you’ve had a set of new rollers in your hands. They should be real ‘tight’ as a set of new roller bearings … which I think they are, in fact. If they appear ‘dry’ or make any sounds; renew them and get rid of that high pitched whining sound associated with ‘dry’ rollers. This is how they go on left side (remember…photo-right). And the spring gets attached . … Pulleys in correct position (crank pulley and cam pulley) . … Left belt tight at the bottom … Tension roller loosely attached (let the spring do the tension). (On photo it is not on yet … ooops.

Kawasaki Exhausts – ZX-6 ZX-10 Zx-14 Exhaust – Slip-ons INSTALLATION MANUAL

0

Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

download
Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo

Incoming search terms: