kawasaki concours 14 plastic removal

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Kawasaki V-Force 700 Snorkel REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Remove plastic from around air filter housing. Remove clamp attaching stock intake (snorkel) from air box. Loosen upper radiator hose clamp. Rotate it so the drive is on the opposite side of the new snorkel and retighten it. Loosen metal support for front plastic. Have a friend gently pull outward and carefully install the new snorkel. Position snorkel so it does not interfere with any cables or steering stem. Move handle bars back and forth. Check for clearance around new snorkel. Make sure all wires, cables and steering stem do not come into contact with the snorkel. Adjust as necessary. Tighten clamp at the air box. Reinstall plastic in opposite order of removal. At your own risk, you can cut slices in the black plastic hood on front of the quad to force the maximum amount of cold fresh air and produce additional horsepower. Jetting will vary from quad to quad and with the altitude

2008-2009 Kawasaki Concours Bar Adapters Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1.) Three minor alterations need to be made before the stock bars can be unbolted from the top triple clamp. These alterations will provide the necessary slack in the clutch hydraulic line, front brake hydraulic line and the two large wire looms running up to the left and right handlebar control housings. a.) Unbolt the metal wire guide that holds the clutch hydraulic line in place on the left side of the steering head. Flip the guide end for end keeping the offset to the outside (left) and place the clutch hydraulic line into the offset. Reinstall the two 6mm bolts (10mm heads) and torque to 7 ft. lbs. Make sure the clutch hydraulic line sits on top of the upper fairing mount bolt. See photo # 1. b.) Locate the left and right wire loom plastic guides mounted to the lower triple clamp. See photo # 2 (left side shown). Pull up on the wire loom with one hand while you feed the loom through the plastic guide with your other hand. About ½” extra slack should be fine. If the plastic guide pops open, simply re-gather the looms together and snap the guide back together. Some adjustment may be necessary after install. c.) CAUTION: Cover the fuel tank and the upper fairing sides with a towel / rag, etc. Carefully loosen the front brake banjo bolt located at the bottom of the front brake master cylinder just enough to rotate the line forward (roughly ½”). See photo # 3. This banjo bolt will loosen with a sudden snap and may move (loosen) more than you need. Keep your hands away from the brake lever as this may force brake fluid out around the banjo fitting. Move your hydraulic line as shown in photo # 3 and re-tighten the banjo bolt to 16 ft. lbs.

Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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Kawasaki ZX-14 Indy Series Exhaust System REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Remove and place the lower fairings in a safe place, to separtate them unhook the rivet at the bottom. The right side lower fairing will need to be trimmed for proper exhaust clearance. Remove the fairing knee panels. Two rubber grommets retain the panel after bolt removal, light force is required to pull panel off. Remove the tank cover. Four rubber grommets and two plastic hooks retain the panel after bolt removal, pull outward to remove from grommets then pull forward and up, light force is required. Remove mid fairing sides. Undo pushpin located on the fairing backside. Note: Blinker connectors must be disconnected before pulling the fairing too far. Remove the left and right muffl ers. Remove the stock header. Note: Be careful not to damage the radiator while removing the stock header and installing the new header leaving the fl ange nuts loose at this time. Install both collectors 7-40020 and 7-40022 holding them to the headers install the four springs 7-30002 from the header to collector spring tabs. Install collector 7-40014 by installing two springs 7-30002 from collector to collector spring tabs. Note: A small amount of WD-40 at the pipe joints will help to fi t them together. Install the megaphone on the header assembly using one of the original muffl er mounting bolts and nuts removed in step 6, mount the megaphone to the forward muffl er mount located at the footpeg. Tighten the header nuts and then remove the megaphone. At this point the right side lower fairing needs to be trimmed. A template is supplied (Page 4) to outline the clearance cut that is needed on the right side lower fairing, we recommend using a dremel tool or a die grinder. The template should give you the necessary clearance but some fi tments may vary. After making the cut lightly sand the edges being careful not to scratch the paint. Clean all fi ngerprints from the exhaust using contact cleaner (or other non fl ammable cleaner). Fingerprints will leave stains on the pipe once the motorcycle is started. Try a test fi t. If you feel more clearance is needed, mark the fairing and remove it, trim until there is at least a 1/4″ of clearance. Reinstall the megaphone and check that the O2 plug is tight. You are now ready to start your motorcycle. Check for exhaust leaks and oil leaks. Shut off the bike and re check the oil level

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Kawasaki Exhausts – ZX-6 ZX-10 Zx-14 Exhaust – Slip-ons INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo

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Kawasaki Voyager 1700 Hitch Removal both saddlebags and Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-05-2012

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Remove the seat. Remove both saddlebags by removing the 3 bolts shown below Remove the plastic liner in the bottom of the trunk by gently pushing in on the center of the plastic clips Once the liner is removed remove the trunk rear light assembly by removing the 4 black screws in side the trunk and 4 on the bottom side of the light assembly. Unplug the light assembly and set it aside. Remove the bolts for the trunk Have a friend hold the trunk up and remove the 4 screws (two on each side) for the side trim Put the bolts back inside the trunk and tighten finger tight to make sure it does not fall. Remove the remaining side trim screws, 5 on each side, and remove the side trim and set it aside Remove 2 bolts from the saddle bag supports. Place the side plate mounting bracket behind the saddlebag supports and replace the two bolts you removed in the previous step. (We recommend using a few drops of Loctite). Do this step for both sides of the bike. Place the side plate behind the mounting bracket and attach the side plates to the mounting brackets with the two bolts supplied with the hitch (We recommend using Loctite on this step) Repeat this step for both sides of the bike

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Kawasaki KLX450R Dual Sport Kit Installation And Removal Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove the seat, fuel tank, and side panels. 2. Unplug and remove the stock headlight. 3. Taillight Installation: The Baja Designs taillight will run in conjunction with the stock taillight for this installation. Start by removing the first wire guide that the stock taillight wires pass through near the end of the fender. Once removed, trim off the remaining molded mounting boss as shown in Photo 1. Drill three ¼” holes in the fender and use the provided countersunk mounting hardware to attach the Baja Designs taillight as shown in Photo 2. The rear edge of the LED cluster should line up with the rear edge of the fender. Route the wires forward between the plastics to the left of the front mounting bolt. We’ll attach them in a later step. Photo 1 Molded mounting boss removed Stock taillight Photo 2
4. Turn Signal Installation: Drill a 7/16″ hole in each side of the fender plastic in the locations shown in Photo 3. Install the rear turn signals and route the wires forward as shown in Photo 4. Photo 3 Photo 4 Zip-tie BD taillight wires to fender here Route left signal wires through fender with stock taillight wires 5. Brakelight Switch: The KLX uses a hydraulic operated switch to activate the brakelight. Installation of this switch requires bleeding the rear brake system. If you do not feel competent performing this task please refer it to a qualified mechanic. An improperly bled brake can lead to rear brake failure. Caliper Guard Modification: The hydraulic brakeswitch replaces the banjo-bolt that attaches the rear brake hose to the caliper. Because of its larger size, the plastic caliper guard must be relieved slightly to provide clearance. Remove the caliper guard and modify as shown in Photo 5.

Kawasaki 440/ 550 Engine Removal and Installation

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1.1 (Above) Remove the two retaining straps, disconnect the battery and remove it from the hull. Disconnect the negative (black) cable first, then the positive (red). Step 2 Exhaust Removal 2.1 (Below) Remove the exhaust hose from the end of the pipe. Remove the water line from the pipe and the head. 2.2 (Below) Remove the water by-pass line from the pipe. 2.3 (Below) Remove the four 10mm nuts / bolts from the exhaust manifold and bracket. Remove the exhaust pipe from the hull. Step 3 Engine Removal 3.1 (Below) Remove the three 10mm bolts securing the PTO shield and remove it. Remove the two 10mm bolts securing the flywheel electrical wire cap. Open the cap and disconnect the harness. NOTE: DO NOT CUT THE WIRES! 3.2 (Below) Disconnect the starter positive wire at the relay box with a 10mm socket

1999-2004 Kawasaki 1500 Drifter Power Commander Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1 Remove the seat. 2 Remove the left side cover. 3 Remove the speedometer assembly. 4 Unbolt the fuel tank. NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the fuel tank. It does however make the installation easier. If you do remove the tank, pay attention to the vent hose routing. Pressing the tabs on the black fuel line connector will allow the fuel line to be disconnected (Fig. A) 5 Remove the battery/ECU hold down bracket (Fig. B). 6 Unbolt and move the bank angle (tip over) sensor out of the way (Fig. C). Fig. A Fig. B Fig. C i201-411 www.powercommander.com 1999-2004 Kawasaki 1500 Drifter – PCIII USB – 2 Bank angle sensor (tip over switch) Remove these 2 bolts 7 Loosen the bolts holding the plastic tray on the left side of the bike (under the left side cover) (Fig. D). 8 Route the wire from the PCIII behind the plastic tray and under the frame side rail (Fig. E). 9 Retighten the bolts holding the plastic tray. 10 Continue routing the wires from the PCIII under the frame near the lower fuel tank mount and go up to the throttle body area (Fig. F). Fig. D Fig. E Fig F i201-411 www.powercommander.com 1999-2004 Kawasaki 1500 Drifter – PCIII USB – 3 Route PCIII harness between plastic tray and frame Route wires under frame Loosen these bolts 11 Disconnect the injector connector from the rear injector (Fig. H). 12 Plug the female PCIII connector with ORANGE/WHITE wire onto the rear injector (Fig. H). 13 Connect the male PCIII connector with ORANGE wire onto the stock injector connector (Fig. H). 14 Repeat steps 11 thru 13 for front injector using the PCIII connectors with the YELLOWcolored wires. 15 Locate the wires coming from the throttle position sensor. (Fig. H). The throttle position sensor is located on the right hand side of the throttle body. It is between the frame and engine

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KAWASAKI TERYX 750 CLUTCH KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove both seats from the vehicle. Next, remove the passenger side lower body panel. There is a mixture of Philips head screws and also plastic push pin fasteners that have to be removed. 2. With the side panel off, the next item to remove is the plastic housing over the engine. These are all “push in” style plastic clips that hold it in place. Once all the pins are out, you can slide the housing off and set it aside. 3. Now the lower long plastic panel under the seat has to be removed (again mainly plastic push clips to remove) . Once they are all out, carefully remove and set aside. 4. Next, remove the fuel tank. Remove the two lines on the top of the tank. There are two straps that hold the tank in place. Remove the bolt from each strap, remove the straps, and lift the fuel tank out. 5. Now the bracket that holds the fuel pump on has to be removed. There are two bolts here to take out. Once this is done, mark the two wires to the coil and disconnect them. Set the bracket out of the way . 6. Next, the clutch cover bolts can be removed and the norkel on the housing can be loosened and i Teryx 750 Clutch Kit Instructions 5/1/09 removed. Take the clutch cove off and set out of the way. 7. With the clutch visible, you can remove the secondary clutch with a large impact wrench and metric socket . 8. Remove the bolt from the primary clutch. This is a left hand thread on the bolt. Next you will need a Kawasaki drive clutch puller (part #352251) to pop the clutch loose. If you do not have a puller, the spring cap can be removed on the vehicle and the weights can be changed out in there as well. 9. With the clutches sitting on the bench, remove the bolts that hold on the spring cover. Remove the stock spring and the stock weights 10. After reading the directions on the new weights, add the correct amount of weight to each clutch weight and install them in the clutch. Place the weight to the left side in the clutch pocket and then install the aluminum spacer. Repeat this process for the other three weights. 11. Install the new spring supplied in the kit and install the spring cover, paying close attention to the arrows on the cover. 12. Next, remove the stock spring from the secondary. It is recommended that you use the TEAM Compression tool (part # 930001) for this. With the clutch on the compression tool, compress the spring retainer down far enough to remove the snap ring with the needle-nose pliers . Slowly back off the t-handle and remove the tool.