Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 15-10-2011
INSPECTION PROCEDURE: Inspect the Wiper Fuse. Verify there is power and ground to the Wiper Motor on all speeds (including “Intermittent” or “Mist” if applicable). After verifying power and ground to the Wiper Motor, follow the procedure below to prevent unnecessary Wiper Motor replacement because of a temporary open in the Wiper Motor Circuit Breaker. 1) Disconnect the Wiper Motor Harness Connector. 2) Wait (10) minutes before checking continuity. 3) Check the continuity of the motor with an ohmmeter. REPRESENTATIVE CHECKING PROCEDURE: NOTE: Continuity check can be performed between either the low speed or high speed terminal and the ground terminal of the wiper motor. The standard resistance of a good wiper motor is approximately 1.5 to 4.5 ohm
Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010
Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.
Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010
Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo
Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 18-11-2010
DEFINITIONS MOTORCYCLE Any motor vehicle having a seat or saddle for the rider that is designed to travel with no more than three wheels contacting the ground, including any bicycle with a motor or driving wheels attached. MOTORIZED BICYCLE A pedal bicycle which has a helper motor, or a non-pedal bicycle which has a motor, with a cylinder capacity not exceeding fifty (50) cubic centimeters, an automatic transmission, and which is capable of a maximum speed of no more than thirty (30) miles per hour (mph) . OPERATION OF MOTORIZED BICYCLES Under Massachusetts law, mopeds fall into the category of “motorized bicycles”(with or without pedals) and are therefore regulated by the Registrar of Motor Vehicles. Individuals must have a valid learner’s permit or driver’s license to operate a motorized bicycle or moped. Mopeds must have automatic transmissions and cylinder capacities of no more than 50 cubic centimeters. In addition, mopeds must meet all federal motor vehicle safety standards and have maximum speeds of no more than 30 mph. The following limitations apply: Individuals may not operate at speeds greater than 25 mph; Individuals may not operate on state highways or limited- access roads with signs prohibiting bicycles; Individuals may not operate on off-street recreational paths; Individuals may use bicycle lanes along roadways; Individuals must use the proper hand signals before stopping or turning; Individuals and their passengers must wear United States Department of Transportation (US DOT) approved helmets when operating; Individuals may not carry passengers while operating on a permit.
Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-12-2010
1. Starting on the right side (towards the front of the motor) locate the three mounting bolts that secure the brake assembly bracket (a chrome tube) to the bottom of the motor. Remove the bottom and front bolts. Repeat for left side. 2. Locate the front motor mount bolt. This is the black bolt located at the very front of the engine about halfway down behind the radiator. Remove the nut from this bolt on the left side. Properly secure the bike and use a jack to lift up on the motor to release the pressure from the motor mount bolt. Remove the bolt. 3. On the right side place the motor mount bolt thru the upper mounting hole of the right tip over bar. Install the tip over bar by feeding the motor mount bolt thru the original hole and inserting the two bolts (supplied) into the bottom mounting holes. (Do not tighten yet.) 4. On the left side install the top of the left tip over bar by inserting it into the right side tip over bar. Align the tip over bar so that the motor mount bolt extends thru the upper mounting hole. Thread the original locking nut onto the motor mount bolt a couple of turns. Now align the bottom of the tip over bar and install the remaining two bolts (supplied). Tighten the motor mount bolt (torque to 28-32 ft/lbs) and the lower four bolts (torque to 14-18 ft/lbs) securely. 5. Re-check all hardware for tightness