kawasaki klx 250 13 reg bash plate

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Kawasaki Ninja 250 FAQ

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 15-11-2010

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Am I too small for this motorcycle? Duke – Sun May 14 17:38:31 2000 I’m only about 5’2″ and don’t have a problem, even though I can only touch the ground with the ends of my toes. Once you get a feel for the balance of the bike it’s not hard to keep everything upright. Only place I have trouble is pushing the bike backwards in a parking lot. Usually I just walk the bike (beside it) to where I can get on and get going. How does the EX500 compare to the EX250? Craig M. – Mon May 22 10:23:29 2000 I have both the EX250 and the EX500; both are Y2K models. The 250 is a screamer that performs well and can easily get me into trouble. My only complaints about the 250 are the excessive nose dive when getting on the front brake hard and the skittishness of the rear during high speed cornering. Both are easily corrected with suspension adjustments, I’ve just been too lazy to get the parts and do the work. A bit more wind protection would be great too. The 500 addresses these problems, the diving of the front end (to a degree); the rear’s skittishness and the wind protection. A plus for the 500 is the greater torque and power off the line; it pulls stronger (in my opinion) and will get you into illegal speed territory just a bit quicker than the 250. With greater weight, is has more stability in high speed and windy situations. Insurance is just about the same for both, with the 250 getting the nod for gas mileage. Service requirements are almost identical for both as well, being that they’re both parallel twins, the technology is the virtually the same. The downfalls of the 500: $2K more than the 250 (can do a lot to the 250 with that kind of money); buzzy mirrors, barely useful; heavier weight to have to push around the garage; lesser gas mileage (55-60 MPG; 250 pushes 70 MPG easily); engine is worse than a nervous dog shaking around at idle and at speed (here the 250 is far superior and much smoother). In my opinion, the 500 is a better suited for a larger rider, from a comfort standpoint. I feel I can stretch out a bit more on it than the 250 (I’m 5′ 9″, 160 lbs). The 250′s brakes are better tuned than the 500 and the shifter is much smoother. That may be due to the 3,500 mile difference between the two bikes. Bottom line, both bikes are great, the 250 is now my wife’s ride (mainly) and the 500′s mine (unless she steals the keys away). In time, I’ll make the adjustments to the 250; she doesn’t push it like I do.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON TOURING LAYBACK LICENSE PLATE MOUNTING KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-02-2011

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This kit fits all 1999 and later FLHR (Road King®) models, FLTR (Road Glide®) and FLHT (Electra Glide® standard) models having license plates measuring a maximum of 7-1/4 x 4-1/4 inches (184 x 108 mm). Also fits 2003 FLHRSEI2 (Screamin’ Eagle® Road King). Does not fit with Detachable Tour-Pak Rack, part number 53276-04. Does not fit 2002 FLHRSEI (Screamin’ Eagle Road King). Kit Contents See Figure 1. INSTALLATION 1. Remove the license plate from the vehicle (if installed). Remove the two hex head bolts holding the original equipment (O.E.) license-plate bracket in place. The bolts and license-plate bracket can be discarded. 2. See Figure 1. Install the new layback license plate holder (1) using the button-head hex socket screws (3) from the kit. Tighten the screws to 19 ft-lbs (25.8 Nm) . 4 1 3 7 5 2 6 is02737 1. License plate holder, layback 2. Foam pad (6) 3. Screw, button head, hex socket (2) 4. License plate frame 5. Set screw, socket head (2) 6. Hex key 7. Reflector assembly, Part Number 59365-07 Figure 1. Layback License Plate Mount Components 3. Position the license plate onto the foam pads (2) of the license plate holder, centering and aligning the plate parallel to the holder edges for best appearance. NOTE Slots in the inside top edge of the license plate frame (4) fit over the two tabs on the top edge of the license plate holder. 4. Hook the top of the license plate frame over the top edge of the holder. Swing the bottom edge of the frame inward, holding the license plate in position against the pads. 5. Use the hex key (6) from the kit to securely fasten the license plate frame to the holder with the two socket head set screws (5)

2008 KTM 250 SX-F 250 XC-F, XCF-W 250 EXC-F, EXC-F SIX DAYS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 22-10-2010

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Hand brake lever The hand brake lever [1] is mounted on the handlebars on the right and actuates the front wheel brake. The adjusting screw [A] can be used to change the basic position of the hand brake lever (see “Maintenance”). 1 A Short circuit button The short circuit button [2] turns off the engine. When pressing this button, the ignition circuit is short-circuited. 2 Headlamp switch (XCF-W) In this model the headlamp is switched on with the pull switch [5] . 5 Flasher switch The flasher switch is a separate unit and is mounted on the left portion of the handlebar. The wire harness is designed in a way that whenever you want to use your bike off-road, you can dismount the entire turn indicator system without affecting the function of the remaining electrical system. Flasher left Flasher right
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS » ENGLISH 7 1 2 3 4 5 Starter button Pushing the red starter button [1] will actuate the E-starter. Emergency OFF switch (EXC-F Australia) The red emergency-OFF switch [2] is arranged adjacent to the throttle grip. In this position, the E-starter is operational and the engine can be started. In this position, the E-starter and ignition circuits are interrupted.The E-starter cannot be actuated, and the engine will not start, not even if you attempt to start it with the kickstarter. Pushing the black starter button [3] will actuate the E-starter. Indicator lamps The green control lamp [4] flashes in the same rhythm as the flashing indicator when the indicator is working. The blue control lamp [5] lights up when the high beam is on. TEST All of the display segments briefly light up for the display function test. Electronic speedometer The display in the electronic speedometer is activated as soon as you press a button on the speedometer or an impulse is received from the wheel sensor. The display lights up when the engine is running. The display is cleared if no button is pressed for 1 minute or no impulse is received from the wheel sensor. The button is used to change between display modes. The + and – buttons are used to control various functions

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HARLEY DAVIDSON DYNA REAR STOP/ TAIL/ TURN SIGNAL RELOCATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-03-2011

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PREPARATION NOTE Position the motorcycle upright using a suitable lift or jack. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 1. Refer to the service manual and follow instructions to remove the main fuse. 2. Follow the service manual instructions to remove the seat. 3. Raise the rear of the vehicle to allow access to the underside of the rear fender. LICENSE BRACKET AND ILLUMINATOR REMOVAL For Models WITHOUT a Center Tail Lamp NOTE See Figure 1. The reflector mounting block (2) is held to the fender (1) with double sided tape. Remove with care to avoid scratching paint. 1 3 2 5 4 6 7 is06256 1. Rear fender 2. Rear reflector and mounting block 3. Wire channel (2) 4. License plate bracket mount 5.5/16-18 screw (2) 6. License plate illuminator 7. M4 screw (2) Figure 1. Rear Fender, Models Without Center Tail Lamp 1. Remove the rear reflector and mounting block (2) from the underside of the rear fender (1). 2. Remove the license plate from the vehicle (if installed). Retain the plate and attaching hardware. NOTE Before removing rear wiring, note wire routing. -J04856 1 of 10 3. Remove the rear lamp wiring from behind the wire channels (3) on the underside of the fender. 4. Disconnect the two-way license lamp connector [93] and the four-way right [18] and left [19] stop/tail/turn (STT) lamp connectors from the STT module in the area under the seat. 5. Remove the two 5/16-18 screws (5) retaining the license plate bracket mount assembly (4) to the fender support. 6. Remove the license plate illuminator (6) from the license plate bracket mount assembly. Save the illuminator. The bracket mount (4) and four screws (5, 7) can be discarded. 7. Proceed to License Bracket and Illuminator Assembly . For Models WITH a Center Tail Lamp NOTE On these models, the license plate illuminator is part of the center tail lamp and is not removed. 1. Remove the three screws retaining the license plate bracket to the tail lamp housing. Remove the bracket and set aside for later assembly. 2. Proceed to Rear Lamp Wiring, For Models WITH a Center Tail Lamp and RED Stop/Turn Signals or AMBER Turn Signals . LICENSE BRACKET AND ILLUMINATOR ASSEMBLY For Models WITHOUT a Center Tail Lamp 1. See Figure 7. Get the new license plate bracket (3), illuminator cover (4), spacer (6) and two M4 screws (5) from the kit, and the license plate illuminator (A) removed from the original equipment (OE) license plate bracket. 2. See Figure 2. Assemble the illuminator (1), spacer (2) and cover (3) to the license plate bracket (5) in the sequence shown, and tighten the screws (4) securely. 3. Get the STT relocation weldment (6), two screws (7) and two flat washers (8) from the kit. 4. Apply a few drops of Loctite 271 – Red to the clean screw threads. Assemble the license plate bracket to the weldment as shown, and tighten the screws to 120 in-lbs (13.6 N-m) . NOTE If using a metal tool to install the black nuts, protect the finish with cloth or paper to prevent damage. 5. Loosely install the black painted nuts (9) onto the threaded studs on each side of the STT relocation weldment. 6. Remove the wires and socket terminals from the two-way license plate illuminator socket housing. Set the socket housing aside for later installation

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BMW Motorcycles R 850/ R 1100 Series and K 1200 RS – New Clutch and Pressure Plate

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010

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Details: All R 850/R 1100 and K 1200 RS models produced from December 1997 have received a new clutch disc, manufactured by VALEO, and a new pressure plate (see applicable part numbers below). Earlier production for both series can be fitted with the new parts. However, due to changes in specifications (a thicker pressure plate, a thinner clutch disc), the new VALEO clutch disc is not compatible with the old pressure plate. In this application, the new clutch disc and pressure plate must be replaced as a pair. Series Production: R 850/R1100 models: Starting with December 1997 production. K 1200 RS: Starting with December 1997 production. Part Number: R 850/R1100 Models: VALEO Clutch Disc: 21 21 2 325 864 Used only in conjunction with Pressure Plate: 21 21 2 325 863 R 850/R1100 models: VALEO Clutch Disc with reduced play on gearbox input shaft (KD – Scheibe): 21 21 2 325 862 Used only in conjunction with Pressure Plate: 21 21 2 325 863 K 1200 RS: VALEO Clutch Disc: 21 21 2 332 973 Used only in conjunction with Pressure Plate: 21 21 2 332 974 Attention: For R 850/R1100 and K 1200 RS models with production dates of 12/97 and later, all clutch parts can be replaced individually, as the new pressure plate will already be installed. On earlier production examples, installing the new VALEO clutch disc without replacing the pressure plate will not allow the clutch to completely disengage.

Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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HI-4 DUAL FIRE MOTORCYCLE IGNITION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Turn ignition switch off and disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Refer to Figure 3. Remove OE ignition module and wire harness (items 1-4). You will disconnect two wires at the coil (15), a wire going to the VOES (Vacuum Operated Electrical Switch) (18), a black ground wire at the ignition module, and the 3 pin plug (20) that connects to the sensor plate (11). Refer to shop manual for locations. 3. Remove ignition cover plates and gasket (items 5- 9). This will require drilling out two rivets. The rivets will later be replaced with two supplied self- threading screws. 4. In order to remove the sensor plate cable, the cable plug (20) must be removed first. Use needle nose pliers to pull the terminals out of the plug. Then pull the cable through the exit hole at the bottom of the timing cover. 5. Note location of sensor plate (11). There is a V notch in the sensor plate used for alignment. When you install the HI-4, you should align the V notch in the same location. This should set the timing close enough to start the engine. Remove and save the two standoffs and washers (10). Remove the sensor plate (11). HI-4 INSTALLATION Refer to Figure 4. The HI-4 requires use of the OE timing rotor P/N 32402-83 (used only on 1985 and newer models). If you have an older model or are not sure, check the rotor (9) for the correct part number. For models prior to 1980, use the supplied 10-32 x ¾”bolt and washer to mount the rotor. 1. Install the HI-4 system in place of the OE breaker or sensor plate. Rotate the HI-4 about 90 degrees to give better access to the cable exit hole. Install the HI-4 first, then push the cable through the hole. On some early models it may be necessary to enlarge the wire harness exit hole in the gear cover. Align the V notch on the HI-4 same as the OE plate you removed. Use the OE standoffs to secure the HI-4. You must use lockwashers under the standoffs for proper clearance between the HI-4 and cover plate. Do not fully tighten the standoffs until the timing has been set. 2. Route the HI-4 wire harness along the frame rails up to the coil. Make sure that harness will not be chafed or burned by exhaust heat. Secure harness with tie wraps. Do not install timing cover. HI-4 HOOKUP Crimp terminals and hardware are supplied for your convenience. Use the ring terminals for coil hookup. Use male-female quick disconnects for connections to the tach and vacuum switch (VOES). Tape up any unused wires. 1. Circuit Breaker Cover Screws (2) 2. Circuit Breaker Cover 3. Circuit Breaker Cover Gasket 4. Breaker Plate Screws (2) 5. Breaker Plate Screw Lockwashers & Washers (2 each) 6. Retainer (1971 to early 1972) 7. Circuit Breaker Cam Bolt 8. Breaker Plate Assembly 9. Breaker Cam 10. Advance Assembly 11. Gear Case Cover 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Damage will result if the brown tach wire comes in contact with +12V. Figure 1. Harley-Davidson®OE Points System
9000-4002A REV A 3 2/05 1. Identify switched +12 volt wire and tach wire (if equipped) going to the coil. Refer to your service manual, or reconnect the battery and use a test light or voltmeter. The switched +12 volt wire will be hot when the ignition key is turned on. 2. Refer to Figure 5. Connect the HI-4 red wire and switched +12 volt wire to Coil positive. 3. The HI-4 white wire is not used and should be taped. 4. Connect the HI-4 black wire to the Coil negative terminal. 5. Connect the HI-4 green wire to the vacuum switch (Figure 3, item 18), if used. 6. Connect the HI-4 brown wire to the tach wire, if equipped with tach. Tape up if unused. 7. The HI-4 is grounded via the timing housing; a separate ground connection is not required. 8. Reconnect battery ground cable. Verify proper ground connections to the frame and engine. VOES HOOKUP The OE vacuum switch (VOES) is normally an open circuit. Above 3-5 inch-Hg vacuum, the VOES closes and grounds the vacuum input on the OE ignition module. This increases the total advance generated by the OE ignition module. Vacuum advance improves part throttle 17 16 1. Cover Screws (2) 2. Ignition Timer Cover 3. Ignition Module 4. Timer Plate Screws (2) 5. Washers (2) 6. Screws & Washers (2 each) 7. Shield 8. Sensor 9. Trigger Rotor Bolt 10. Timer Plate 11. Trigger Rotor 12. Advance Assembly 13. Gear Case Cover 14. Ignition Coil 15. Spark Plug Wires (2) 16. Ignition Coil Terminal (FX) 17. Ignition Coil Terminal (FL) 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Most motorcycle coils do not have terminals marked. Use either terminal for Coil+ (positive) and the other one for Coil- (negative). Warning: The HI-4 (8-1100) Dual Fire ignition will not work with 2 plugs per head, dual coil application. Damage will result if attempted. Use the HI-4 (8-2100) single fire ignition for 2 plugs per head applications

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KYMCO MAXXER 300/ 250 MONGOOSE 300/ 250 SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kymco) by admin on 26-10-2010

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apply or add designated greases and lubricants to the specified lubrication points. ÑAfter reassembly, check all parts for proper tightening and operation. ÑWhen two persons work together, pay attention to the mutual working safety. ÑDisconnect the battery negative (-) terminal before operation. ÑWhen using a spanner or other tools, make sure not to damage the motorcycle surface. ÑAfter operation, check all connecting points, fasteners, and lines for proper connection and installation. ÑWhen connecting the battery, the positive (+) terminal must be connected first. ÑAfter connection, apply grease to the battery terminals. ÑTerminal caps shall be installed securely. 1 . GENERAL INFORMATION 1-6 ATV 300/250 ÑIf the fuse is burned out, find the cause and repair it. Replace it with a new one according to the specified capacity. ÑAfter operation, terminal caps shall be installed securely. ÑWhen taking out the connector, the lock on the connector shall be released before operation. ÑHold the connector body when connecting or disconnecting it. ÑDo not pull the connector wire. ÑCheck if any connector terminal is bending, protruding or loose. Confirm Capacity 1 . GENERAL INFORMATION 1-7 ATV 300/250 ÑThe connector shall be inserted completely. ÑIf the double connector has a lock, lock it at the correct position. ÑCheck if there is any loose wire

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2008 KAWASAKI KX 250 F SLIP-ON EXHAUST SYSTEM

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-11-2010

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quality, engine performance improvements and modern Hexagonal muffler design they satisfy the requirements of all riders. The systems are designed for two markets; in the US they are available with an approved spark arrester, and for the EU and other non-US markets they come with a noise damper. New for 2008 is additional chamber that helps to reduce noise emission and provides better power and torque at low rpm range. PERFORMANCE Measurements of the Akrapovic EVOLUTION system on the KAWASAKI KX 250 F (with muffler insert): Power & Torque: The Akrapovic Evolution and Racing systems deliver a performance increase throughout nearly the entire rpm range. It is most pronounced in the bottom and the top of the range. The systems deliver increased torque similar to the power increase. Max. increased power of 0.7 HP was measured at 12260 rpm, while max. power of 34.6 HP was measured at 11400 rpm. CONFIGURATION Akrapovic Racing and Evolution systems are of a recognised Hexagonal off-road form. They differ only in terms of the material of the pipe: we use stainless steel for Racing and titanium for Evolution. The header tube is conical, made from stainless steel (Racing) or titanium (Evolution) with additional chamber. It is jointed with a conical SS/titanium link pipe by a sleeve joint, which is secured with a silicon-shielded spring. The link pipe is welded to the muffler. The inlet cap, due to the method of connection with the link pipe, is made from stainless steel (Racing) or titanium (Evolution), same for the internal perforation. The outlet cap is made of carbon-fiber for evolution and composite polymer for Racing system. The outer sleeve of the muffler is available either made from titanium or carbon fiber. The system is attached to the motorcycle with the Akrapovic carbon fiber clamp. The Akrapovic carbon fiber heat shield is also intended for this system. The system comes with a built-in noise damper for the European and other markets, and an approved spark arrester for the American market, which is marked with a laser engraving.

2008 KAWASAKI KX 250 F RACING AND EVOLUTION EXHAUST SYSTEM

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-11-2010

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the Akrapovic Racing and Evolution complete exhaust systems are the flagships of our product lines. They are designed for competition-oriented MX riders who demand maximum performance from their exhaust systems. With their production quality, engine performance improvements and modern Hexagonal muffler design they satisfy the requirements of all riders. The systems are designed for two markets; in the US they are available with an approved spark arrester, and for the EU and other non-US markets they come with a noise damper. New for 2008 is additional chamber that helps to reduce noise emission and provides better power and torque at low rpm range. PERFORMANCE Measurements of the Akrapovic EVOLUTION system on the KAWASAKI KX 250 F (with muffler insert): Power & Torque: The Akrapovic Evolution and Racing systems deliver a performance increase throughout nearly the entire rpm range. It is most pronounced in the bottom and the top of the range. The systems deliver increased torque similar to the power increase. Max. increased power of 0.7 HP was measured at 12260 rpm, while max. power of 34.6 HP was measured at 11400 rpm. CONFIGURATION Akrapovic Racing and Evolution systems are of a recognised Hexagonal off-road form. They differ only in terms of the material of the pipe: we use stainless steel for Racing and titanium for Evolution. The header tube is conical, made from stainless steel (Racing) or titanium (Evolution) with additional chamber. It is jointed with a conical SS/titanium link pipe by a sleeve joint, which is secured with a silicon-shielded spring. The link pipe is welded to the muffler. The inlet cap, due to the method of connection with the link pipe, is made from stainless steel (Racing) or titanium (Evolution), same for the internal perforation. The outlet cap is made of carbon-fiber for evolution and composite polymer for Racing system. The outer sleeve of the muffler is available either made from titanium or carbon fiber. The system is attached to the motorcycle with the Akrapovic carbon fiber clamp. The Akrapovic carbon fiber heat shield is also intended for this system. The system comes with a built-in noise damper for the European and other markets, and an approved spark arrester for the American market, which is marked with a laser engraving

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