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YAMAHA Road Star Fuel Pump Relocation Kit INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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1. Remove seat and disconnect battery. Remove fuel tank along with both left and right side battery covers, and remove air box from carburetor (all per Yamaha standard shop manual procedures). 2. Remove chrome plastic cover over fuel pump and disconnect choke cable/knob from lower pump bracket. Remove pump-to-carb fuel line from fuel pump. Disconnect fuel pumps electrical lead connector. 3. Remove two (2) hex-head pump mounting bracket bolts and remove pump assembly from motorcycle. Slide fuel pump up and off bracket mounting posts (Caution: excess fuel may drain from pump and/or fuel lines and fuel filter!). Remove heat shield. Remove remaining fuel line from pump. Pull all fuel lines from filter and remove steel springs and hose clamps from these lines (these will be reused on the kits fuel lines). With a sharp knife or box cutter, trim off the top portion of the fuel pumps rubber isolation/mount system per Photo A. Next cut pumps wiring harness approximately half way between connector and pump. Strip the insulation from the ends of these wires as well as from the supplied Baron harness extension wires. Using the supplied electrical butt connectors, crimp Baron harness extensions red wire to pumps black-w/blue-strip wire, and Baron harness extensions black wire to pumps black wire. Repeat this process on other side of wire harness extension with pumps connector. Now, referring to Photo B, you will need to cut off the square tube that runs along the side of the fuel pump with a hack saw. Cut down toward pump body in a straight cut, then cut tube off by cutting along the body. This will allow you to twist pump in the rubber mount so the curved spigot is facing up (clockwise approx 1/4 turn). 4. Remove pump-to-carb fuel line from carb and separate electrical wires from this line. Remove this fuel line from engine. Re-route choke cable to right side of engine (toward carb) and rotate it up and over rear cylinder head back toward left side of bike. Mount new Baron choke bracket to the choke cable and tighten plastic nut. New choke bracket will mount to rear fuel tank mounting location (Photo C). 5. 99~03 models – Remove electrical relay bracket (found under the right side cover) from the bike and slide each relay off of this bracket. Install fuel pump onto new Baron Fuel Pump Bracket and install bracket in the same location as the stock bracket you just removed, using stock mounting hardware. Refer to Photo F for proper installation. 6. 04~07 models Remove electrical relays from stock bracket and remove relays from rubber holder. Cut rubber holder per Photo E and replace one of the relays into the rubber and install on to new Baron bracket. The second relay will be placed to the right of the tool bag under the seat and secured with the provided two-sided tape pad. Reconnect plugs to the relays. (Photo F)

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KAWASAKI Jet Ski STX-12F SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-11-2010

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FEATURES & BENEFITS Kawasaki 2007 SPECIFICATIONS: JT1200D7F Engine type……………… 4-stroke, water cooled, 4- cylinder Displacement…………… 1,199 cm3 Bore & stroke…………… 83.0 x 55.4 mm Compression ratio…… 11.2:1 Induction system……… DOHC 16 valve (4 valves per cylinder) Maximum power………. 92 kW (125 PS) / 7,200 r/min Maximum torque……… 125 N·m / 6,500 r/min Cooling system……….. inducted water Fuel system…………….. EFI with single 54 mm throttle Starting ……………………. electric Battery…………………….. sealed, 12V 18Ah Propulsion system…… axial flow, single stage jet pump Maximum thrust………. 3,675 N (375 kgf) Seating capacity………. 3 seater Fuel capacity…………… 62 L L x W x H…………………. 3,120 x 1,180 x 1,050 mm Dry weight……………….. 334 kg Colours……………………. Red NOTE: Specifications subject to change without notice ENGINE Ñ Chrome composite plated cylinders are lightweight, durable and quickly carry heat away from the combustion chamber and piston for supreme durability at high power output. Ñ Semi-dry sump uses a single feed oil pump. Ñ Tip over protection shuts the engine off if the craft tilts more than 61o. Ñ 4-valves per cylinder provides maximum valve area for optimum flow. Fuel system Ñ Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) with a single Mitsubishi throttle body and an injector at each intake port. Ñ Long intake tract enhances low-end power. Ñ Large capacity, low-noise airbox. Ñ Finger-type throttle reduces hand fatigue. Water-jacketed semi-dry exhaust Ñ Double-walled exhaust manifold and dual waterboxes help reduce noise. Ñ Water surrounding the exhaust system lowers engine compartment temperatures for more power. Ñ Semi-dry exhaust system keeps cooling water out of the exhaust before the waterbox to prevent water from entering the engine if the boat should capsize. Ñ Emissions meet US EPA 2006 and CARB 2008 regulations. Lanyard engine stop switch Ñ Engine will not crank with lanyard removed. Ñ Fastened to the rider, lanyard cuts the ignition if the rider dismounts. DRIVE SYSTEM Three-blade oval edge stainless steel impeller Ñ The shape of the blades give maximum efficiency with minimum cavitation. Ñ Fully enclosed impeller for damage protection. Ñ Stainless steel pump insert increases durability and helps ensure reliable performance. Ñ Tough stainless steel is used for incredible durability. HULL Ñ One-piece chopper over foam (COF) hull construction is lighter than a conventional hand-laid hull of similar size. Ñ Cab forward design makes more space for the rider and passengers. Ñ Gel coat for deep, lustrous, scratch resistant finish. Ñ Open rear deck for carrying bulky items, putting on skis, etc. Ñ
An automatically retractable boarding step makes boarding from deep water easy. Kawasaki Smart Steering (KSS) Ñ A steering sensor is linked to the EMM to aid in boat handling when the throttle is quickly released from high speed. Detail features Ñ 62 litre fuel tank for increased range. Ñ LCD instrumentation includes digital speedometer, tachometer, hour meter, clock, trip distance, trip time, fuel level and warning lamps. Ñ Includes high tech. troubleshooting function for the fuel injection system. A computer hook-up allows easy retrieval of entire troubleshooting history. Ñ A remote cooling system flushing point is included. Ñ Front hatch made of ABS for reduced weight, increased durability and enhanced appearance. Ñ Mirrors mounted on the deck reduce weight and enhance appearanced

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2004 King And CM50 water pump drive belt And pulley alignment & inspection

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Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 10-11-2010

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It is important to inspect three things on the water pump drive pulley and belt. Inspect 1. That the belt and pulleys are in proper alignment and that the belt is not rubbing on flywheel or edges of the pulleys 2. That the pulleys are not cracked 3. That the water pump impeller pulley fastener is tight and has adequate high strength thread lock agent applied. Below is the proper orientation of the water pump drive pulley, cover, and spacers.

Kawasaki Mule Lift Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 04-05-2012

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Front Lift Installation 1. Ensuring that the parking brake is set, place jack under center of the Mule front end and lift until front wheels clear the ground. Be careful to support Mule properly so that it is secure, but so that the A-arms and struts can droop to full extension. 2. Remove front wheels. 3. If applicable, remove the heater to allow access to the strut mount behind the heater coil. Heater 4. Starting with the left side (driver side), remove the cotter pin and castle nut that secures the strut to the strut mount. Castle Nut & Pen 5. Push bolt through the bolthole, taking care not to damage the brake line that is attached to the bolt. If you are having difficulty removing the bolt, you may have to remove the brake lines that are attached to the front brakes. In this case refer to owners manual for removing brake lines. Screwdriver NOTE: Keep in mind that if you remove the brake lines you must bleed your brakes according to operator’s manual. 6. Once the bottom of the strut has been loosened, then unbolt the top of the strut. The nuts securing the top strut can be located in the dash of the Mule on the left and right sides. In most cases these nuts are easily accessible, but you may have to remove the glove box or heater coils, depending on the model and options purchased with the Mule.

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1928 AJS Installation Instruction Manual

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Oil delivered at “6″ goes to the big end, while that delivered at “5″ goes up to the cam box. The bottom end of the plunger also has a slot, which registers alternately with inlet ” 7 ” and outlet ” 8,” and is responsible for returning the oil from the sump to the tank. It is of greater capacity than the supply pump. To dismantle the pump, proceed as follows :— 1. Remove all pipes from the pump. 2. Remove pump from engine. 3. Remove the two nuts “A” and the pin” 3 ” from the pump. 4. Gently push the plunger out of the pump body in the direction of the arrow “C” on the drawing. To re-assemble, the reverse sequence of these operations is, of course, followed. Should it be required to remove the worm ” 2,” the brass bush ” D ” which screws into the body with a R.H. thread, must be removed first. It is of the utmost importance that the nut “A” always makes an air-tight joint with the body ; and should there be no oil returning to the tank at any time, check this joint immediately. Occasionally go over all the oil pipe unions and nuts to see that everything is tight. Should one of the unions come loose, especially on the inlet side of the pump, of course, the whole system of lubrication fails. As will be seen from the illustration, the oil pump itself is very simple. There are only two moving parts, and it is most unlikely that anything in this pump will get out of order. Should the oil not be circulating and running back to the tank, be quite sure that there is plenty of oil in the tank and that the filters are clean, before dismantling the pump. Should it be necessary to take the oil pump from the engine, make certain that the short piece of square tube which drives the pump spindle from the engine is replaced. The pump delivers oil to the big end via holes drilled down the driving side of the crank­ case, then through holes in the main shaft, up web of flywheel, and through the crank pin into the big end. Oil is also taken to the cam box. A portion of the cam box projects inside the chaincase—the end of this projection is open ; the oil from the cam box falls on to the vertical chain—from there it falls through holes in the crankcase into the sump, and is returned to the oil tank. The piston and little end of connecting rod are lubricated in the ordinary way by splash from the big end, but we have found it necessary for continued high speeds on track or in road race, above (say) 60 m.p.h. average, to take an extra supply of oil direct to the cylinder walls

Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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Tacoma Power Steering Pump Improving Power Steering Reservoir modification

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 02-10-2011

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For my SAS I decided to add hydraulic steering assist as it comes in real handy for rock crawling. I got the Redneck Ram setup from the folks at West Texas Off-road that includes rebuilding an earlier IFS steering box along with drilling and tapping the box for the included ram. One of the down sides of adding a ram is that it slows the steering down because the stock steering pump has to supply the added volume for the hydraulic ram. Another is that it creates a fluid volume change in the system reservoir that needs to be compensated for in some way. After doing some reading on the West Texas site about how to go about modifying a Saginaw pump and reading up on earlier Toyota pump mods for steering assist setups on the Pirate board, I decided to give it whirl and see what I could do about the Tacoma pump. Chuck Gardella was kind enough to supply me with a blown pump that I could rebuild and submit to my endless fiddling and tinkering. I plan to give him my pump in return when I get this one done and installed. You need to do something to allow for more room in the reservoir for the standard hydraulic ram assist setup so I decided to tackle the reservoir first. The reason you need the extra space is because the ram is unbalanced. That is there is a rod on one side of the cylinder and not on the other side so the volume of the fluid has to change in the system to account for the volume of the rod as it travels back and forth. I calculated the volume of the rod that I have at full stroke to be about 2 oz or so. This would equate to plus or minus up to 2 oz. in the pump reservoir. Well first off, it’s no wonder why so many folks boil their steering pumps over with heavy wheeling and have so many other steering problems. The stock power steering reservoir doesn’t even rate pint sized

1994-1998 HONDA RVF400RR Racing Kit INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 01-12-2011

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(1)Fuel High Octane white gasoline (2)Engine Oil Recommended Oil: HONDA Ultra-GP (for four-cycle Motorbike) SAE20W-50 or 10W-40
Full Capacity: 3.0Liter (5.28pt) Oil Exchange: 2.5Liter (4.4pt) Filter Exchange: 2.4Liter (4.224pt) (3)Spark Plug NGK R 847-10(11)(4)Cooling Water Highly recommend checking the water level on each ignition/riding. Ingredient: Tapped water or Drinking water I. Unscrew a radiator cap. Apply water up to limb of intake. II. Hold steering and heave the body two or three times to let air out. III.Add water if necessary. IV. Screw the cap tighten.V. Start Engine then check water level again. Add water if necessary. < Notes for racing condition> • Keep your attention when you re-check the water level since the water would spill out of intake. Also cover the body with wastes. • Drain cooling water in a catch-tank before riding. • Drain whole water in a radiator after riding. It avoids corrosion or clog of components. • It is admitted adding coolant in winter season. Handle carefully when you apply them. It makes the circuit slippery if it drops or spilled.

Kawasaki Exhausts – ZX-6 ZX-10 Zx-14 Exhaust – Slip-ons INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo

Kawasaki Mule Roof 600, 610 and 4010 Trans Crew, Roof Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 02-05-2012

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INSTALLTION INSTRUCTIONS – Mule 600/610 (4010 Trans skip to pg 4) 1. Place Roof Panel on top of UTV Roll cage and center front to back, and left to right. 2. Using Figure 1 Below – place UTV Roof Mounting Brackets around roll cage bar and using a marker, mark the position of the holes needed in the roof for each Roof Mounting bracket . Figure 1 Copyright 2007 DiamondBack Automotive Accessories, Inc. Page 3 3. Next, remove the roof from the roll cage and using a drill with 1/4″ bit, drill holes using the marks as a guide. 4. Cut (4) 3″ strips of adhesive foam and apply to roof in where mounting brackets are positioned to prevent roof rattling once mounted. Foam should run in the direction of the roll cage as shown in Figure 1 above. 5. Next, reposition the roof on the roll cage according to step 1. 6. Prior to attaching the roof mount brackets, cut the remaining adhesive foam in half and apply one section to the roof in the center of the roof where roof and each roll cage bar meet as shown in Figures 1 above. If additional tape is required to prevent rattling it can be purchased from any hardware store as window sealant foam tape. 7. Next, attach the roof mount brackets according to Figure 2. Use channel locks or pliers to hold top of carriage bolt and turn nut with 7/16″ socket.

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