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HARLEY DAVIDSON REAR AXLE-NUT COVER KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-01-2011

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REAR AXLE-NUT COVER KIT GENERAL Kit Number 41704-09, 41705-09, 41706-09 Models For model fitment information, please see the P&A Retail Catalog or the Parts and Accessories section (English only). Additional Parts Required The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley-Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (00333a) NOTE This instruction sheet references Service Manual information. A Service Manual for your model motorcycle is required for this installation and is available from a Harley-Davidson Dealer. Kit Contents See Figure 1 and Table 1. INSTALLATION NOTES The shorter axle-nut cover mounts to the right side of the motorcycle. Axles that have been removed for service, replacement or repair may have been assembled in reverse orientation from their stock design. Axle-nut covers may not fit properly on reversed axles. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for correct axle orientation. 1. Adjust the position of the exhaust system (if necessary) to provide axle-nut clearance. 2. Position each axle-nut cover over the appropriate axle nut. 3. The skull version nut covers have two set screws per cover. Position the logo and snug up one set screw to hold in place and the other to prevent rotation. 4. Tighten the axle-nut cover set screws to 70 in-lb (7.9 Nm) . NOTE The set screws in this kit are treated with a thread-locking compound. When replacing or re-installing the set screws (2), apply Loctite® 243 (Blue) Threadlocker and Sealant (Harley- Davidson Part Number 99642-97) to the set screw threads. SERVICE PARTS

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL CHROME REAR AXLE ADJUSTER AND COVER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 16-04-2011

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INSTALLATION Perform this installation when the engine is cool. Working on or near the exhaust system when the engine is hot could result in severe burns. (00311a) 1. Block the motorcycle underneath the frame so the weight of the vehicle is off of the rear wheel, but do not raise the rear wheel off the ground. 2. Some models require loosening or removal of the muffler or mufflers in order to remove the rear axle. See the EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL section of the Service Manual. Remove the saddlebags if desired for extra working clearance. See SADDLEBAG REMOVAL in the Service Manual. 3. See Figure 1. Remove the original axle adjustment bolts (1) and jam nuts (2) from both sides of the motorcycle and discard. NOTE On a bike that has been previously serviced, ensure that the axle has not been removed and re-installed from the left side (with the castle nut to the right of the wheel). If it has, the axle MUST be inserted from the right side of the motorcycle. 4. Remove the retaining pin (7), castle nut (5) and washer (4) from the left side of the axle (6). Discard the washer, but save the pin and nut for later re-assembly. 5 7 1 4 6 2 3 is04101 1. Axle adjust bolt 2. Jam nut 3. Axle adjuster collar 4. Washer 5. Castle nut 6. Rear axle 7. Retaining pin Figure 1. Rear Axle Hardware (Left Side Shown) 5. Tap the axle toward the right side of the motorcycle and remove. The belt adjuster collars (3) will fall loose as the axle is removed. The collars can be discarded. The wheel bearing spacers may also fall loose or be dislodged. Be sure to return these to their original position on the vehicle (short spacer on the right side, long spacer on the left). 6. Inspect axle components for damage or excessive wear, and replace as required

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL REAR AXLE COVER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-03-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. 1988-1999 FLSTF Models: Remove rear muffler heat shield, loosen rear exhaust Torca clamp, then remove rear muffler from support following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 2000 and Later Models: Remove exhaust system following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. NOTE In some cases, if bike has been previously serviced, the axle may have been removed and re-installed from the left side (with castle nut and cotter pin on the right). If this is the case, the axle must be removed and installed from the the right. If axle appears as original configuration (as in Figure 1), it is not necessary to loosen the rear axle nut or remove the cotter pin (or spring clip) from the rear castle nut. 2. All Models: See Figure 1. On the left side of the motorcycle, loosen the axle adjuster screw (1) and jamnut (2) just enough to be able to remove the jamnut. 3. 1988-1999 FLSTF Models Only: See Figure 2. On the right side (brake caliper side), use a T40 TORX drive to remove the two pin bolts from caliper. Remove caliper by gently rocking caliper back and forth to compress caliper piston, then carefully slide caliper off brake disc. Use cable strap or other suitable means to support caliper. 4. All Models: On the right side, loosen the axle adjuster screw and jamnut just enough to be able to remove the jamnut. 5. All Models: See Figure 3. On each side, place retainer clip (oriented as shown) and washer from kit over axle adjuster screw and replace jamnut. Turn in axle adjuster screw until it is in its original position against axle spacer, but leave jamnut loose. 1 2 4 3 is04788 1. Axle adjuster screw 2. Jamnut 3. Castle nut 4. Cotter pin (or spring clip) Figure 1. Rear Axle Hardware

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HARLEY DAVIDSON DYNA AND SPORTSTER Chrome Front Wheel Spacers INSTALLATION ISNTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Block motorcycle underneath frame so front wheel is raised off the ground. 2. See Figure 1. Remove the upper (1) and lower (2) brake caliper mounting bolts and brake caliper(s) (3). Support caliper(s) using a rubber bungee cord. Be careful not to scratch fender paint. NOTES Do not operate front brake lever with the front wheel removed or the caliper piston may be forced out of piston bores. Reseating the piston requires disassembly of the caliper. Prior to removal, make note of existing left and right spacer location. The new spacers will be installed in the locations. 3. See Figure 3. On left side of wheel, remove axle nut (D), lockwasher (E) and washer (F). Perform the following: 4. Sportster and Dyna (except FXDWG) See Figure 2. Loosen the pinch bolt nut (1) and pull the the axle (2) free. Remove wheel and spacers. Leave bearing(s) in place. Discard spacers. 3 1 2 is04469 1. Brake caliper mounting bolt, long (top) 2. Brake caliper mounting bolt, short (bottom) 3. Brake caliper Figure 1. Caliper Mounting Bolts (Left Side) Dyna and Sportster 3 1 2 is04470 1. Pinch bolt nut 2. Axle 3. Pinch bolt Figure 2. Front Wheel Mounting (Dyna and Sportster Except FXDWG-Right Side) 5. See Figure 3. Obtain the new right (1) and left (2) chrome spacers from kit and install. 6. Apply a light coat of ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT (Harley- Davidson Part Number 98960-97) to the axle.
7. Place wheel between sliders and install axle. Verify that axle spacers on right and left side are properly installed. 8. See Figure 3. Install the washer (F), lockwasher (E) and nut (D) onto threaded end of axle (A). 9. In order to properly align the front fork, perform the fol- lowing: a. On the right side of the wheel, insert a 7/16 inch drill bit through the hole in the axle. While holding axle stationary, tighten axle nut to 50-55 ft-lbs (61.0-74.6 Nm) . b. Pull fork leg so that it just contacts drill bit. Tighten according to the following: c. Refer to Figure 2. Tighten the Axle Pinch Bolt Nut to 25-30 ft-lbs (33.9-40.7 Nm) . d. Remove drill bit from axle hole. 10. Follow instructions in Service Manual and install brake caliper to the sliders noting the following: •Loosely install long bolt to the top hole on fork leg. Install the short mounting bolt to the bottom hole and tighten to 28-38 ft-lb (38.0-51.5 Nm) . •Final tighten top bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.0-51.5 Nm) . 11. Repeat Step 10 to install brake caliper on opposite side of wheel. After servicing brakes and before moving motorcycle, pump brakes to build brake system pressure. Insufficient pressure can adversely affect brake performance, which could result in death or serious injury. (00279a) 12. Pump brake lever to move pistons out until they contact both brake pads. Verify piston location against pads

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Kawasaki Mule 3010 Hood Rack Installation And Operations Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 28-04-2012

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1. Install the Seizmik Brush Guard. – Have a friend hold the brush guard (G) in place while you slide the 1.0″ dia. tube clamps (K) in place over the middle tube of the OEM bumper, as shown in Figure 1. Secure each one in place with one of the 3/8″ x 2.25″ bolts (N), two 3/8″ washers (Q), and one 3/8″ nylock nut (R). Repeat at the top tube of the OEM bumper using the 1.5″ dia. tube clamps (J), and 3/8″ x 1.75″ bolts (O). VEHICLE FRONT Figure 2. 2. Mounting brackets – Attach the two hood rack mounting brackets to the mounting pads of the brush guard, as shown in Figure 2. Use four of the 3/8″ x 1.0″ bolts (P), eight 3/8″ washers (Q), and four 3/8″ nylock nuts (R) per mounting pad. Snug down the fasteners but do not fully tighten them yet. 3 Figure 3. 3. Crush sleeves – Insert a crush sleeve (B) into each cantilever arm assembly (C & D), as shown in Figure 3. 4. Cantilever arms – Position the Driver side cantilever arm (C) on the mounting bracket, and insert a 3/8″ dia. pivot bolt (M), as shown in Figure 4. Add a 3/8″ washer (Q) and nylock nut (R) on the other side and snug down the assembly; leave the fasteners loose enough so the components can be repositioned for fitment. Repeat this step for the passenger side. Figure 4. 4 Figure 5. 5. Lock pins – Insert the 1/2″ lock pins (Y) into the tabs on each side of the Brush Guard, fixing the cantilever arms in place, as shown in Figure 5.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON AXLE CAP NUT KIT (CHROME) INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 05-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. Secure the front wheel of the motorcycle. 2. Remove one hex nut, lockwasher and flat washer attaching the axle holder to the right-side fork damper tube. 3. Assemble a chrome flat washer, split lockwasher and cap nut from the kit to the fork damper stud, but do not fully tighten at this time. 4. Repeat with the remaining nut, lockwasher and flat washer on the other stud. 5. For 2000 and later models: See Figure 1. Insert a 7/16 inch drill bit (3) into the hole in the front axle (2). Pull the right-side fork leg (1) so that it just contacts the drill bit. 1 4 2 3 is04467 1. Fork leg 2. Front axle 3. Drill bit 4. Chrome cap nut, lockwasher and flat washer (2) Figure 1. Align the Front Wheel 6. Tighten the new chrome cap nuts (4) to 9-13 ft-lbs (12-18 Nm)

Kawasaki Mule Lift Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 04-05-2012

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Front Lift Installation 1. Ensuring that the parking brake is set, place jack under center of the Mule front end and lift until front wheels clear the ground. Be careful to support Mule properly so that it is secure, but so that the A-arms and struts can droop to full extension. 2. Remove front wheels. 3. If applicable, remove the heater to allow access to the strut mount behind the heater coil. Heater 4. Starting with the left side (driver side), remove the cotter pin and castle nut that secures the strut to the strut mount. Castle Nut & Pen 5. Push bolt through the bolthole, taking care not to damage the brake line that is attached to the bolt. If you are having difficulty removing the bolt, you may have to remove the brake lines that are attached to the front brakes. In this case refer to owners manual for removing brake lines. Screwdriver NOTE: Keep in mind that if you remove the brake lines you must bleed your brakes according to operator’s manual. 6. Once the bottom of the strut has been loosened, then unbolt the top of the strut. The nuts securing the top strut can be located in the dash of the Mule on the left and right sides. In most cases these nuts are easily accessible, but you may have to remove the glove box or heater coils, depending on the model and options purchased with the Mule.

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Kawasaki 650/360 Prairie Lift Kit Installation and removal Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) Place jack under center of ATV front end and lift until front wheels clear the ground. Be careful to support ATV properly so that it is securely supported but so that A-arms and shocks can droop to full extension. 2) Remove front wheels. 3) Remove or loosen front plastic. 4) Remove C-clip and nut at the top of the strut. 5) Screw bracket “A” on top of strut to the same torque specifications as the nut. 6) Place the top adapter “A” through the top of the strut mount, and screw the original nut on the top of bracket “A” securing it to the strut mount. Tighten this nut to the required manufacturer specifications and replace the factory C-clip. 7) Repeat the procedure for the other side. 8) Install the wheels, torque wheel lug nuts to manufacturer’s specifications, lower and remove jack. Check for clearance problems or misalignment. Rear Lift 1) Place jack under ATV at the rear of the bottom skid plate and lift until the weight is off of the suspension. Be careful to secure the ATV properly so as not to fall off the jack. 2) Remove the bottom of the shock from the shock mount on the axle. 3) After removing the shock, jack the ATV up 1″-2″ further. 4) Place Bracket “B” between the shock and shock mount with the notched out ends facing downward. Insert stock bolt to secure bracket “B” to the shock mount and the shock. Fasten nut. 5) Insert the new 12x75mm Bolt to the top of bracket “B” and the shock eyelet and secure with a new 12mm nut. 6) Tighten all nuts and bolts to manufacturer’s torque specifications. 7) Install the wheels, torque wheel lug nuts to manufacturer’s specifications, lower and remove jack. Check for clearance problems or misalignment.

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Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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1996-2003 KAWASAKI ZX7R INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) It is mandatory to use blue Loc-tite on all bolts. We promise they will come loose if you don’t. 2) Remove the large nut and washer that holds your triple clamp on. Install the new nut that we provide which has HEX drive facing UP. You will NOT use the stock washer. 3) Torque the new nut to your factory recommended setting as they vary. Normally a minimum of 50-80 ft lbs. 4) Install the new triple clamp damper mount (TC mount) over the new triple clamp nut with the “machined register” (the small knub) indexing into the matching groove on the top, back of your stock triple clamp. The knub insures the mount cannot spin should the damper try to loosen the main nut. 5) Be sure this TC mount is setting down flush on the triple clamp surface all the way around. This part is machined precisely to fit over the Scotts triple clamp nut. The groove machined into the nut is positioned so once the set screws are tightened, it will suck the TC mount down against your triple clamp. Remove any obstructions that would not allow the TC mount to sit flush against your stock triple clamp surface. 6) Tip to save time: Before installation, using Loc-tite start all the setscrews first, until flush with the inside bore. 7) Using blue loc-tite on the setscrews, run them all in against the nut equally and then proceed to tighten each one making your way around until they are all equally tight. They should be checked after the first ride as normally they will settle into the groove in the nut and require tightening. 8) (Note: You must use some heat to compromise the Loc-tite before trying to remove the setscrews or the small Allen head setscrews can be stripped easily). 9) Remove the two, stock-front tank retaining bolts. You will replace these with longer ones in the kit. 10) Install the new “frame bracket tower”. There is a front and back to this part, note the picture! 11) Install the longer tank bolts supplied, through our frame bracket and into your tank mounting holes. 12) Grease the tower pin and drop it in the tower pin hole. It is designed to “float” and requires no retaining devices. Keep the tower pin and hole portion greased lightly. 13) Install the damper using the (2) 6×20 Allens. The link arm slot aligns with the flats on the tower pin. 14) Read your damper manual for initial settings on the controls. The damper is infinitely adjustable and totally up to the user to find their preference. Start with softer (counter clockwise) settings. Normally where we set the unit is a good starting point, usually 8 clicks out on the base valve. 15) The base valve controls the immediate feel of damping forces exerted

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