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1981-1983 Yamaha Virago 750 & 920 Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 11-02-2012

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Start by loosening the rear cylinder down tube bolt located on the top of the old mufflers center collector in front of the rear tire. 2. Remove both of the front cylinder exhaust pipe head nuts and set them to the side for reuse with the MAC exhaust system. 3. Remove the right side passenger’s foot peg. Set the foot peg aside as you will need to reinstall it. 4. Remove the left side passenger’s foot peg. Set this foot peg aside as it will also need to be reinstalled. Note: When you remove this bolt the entire exhaust system will be loose and may fall. You will need to support the old exhaust at this point to keep from injuring yourself. Gently move the old exhaust system side to side to remove it from the rear cylinder down tube. Once the exhaust system is loose from the down tube remove the system from under the Virago. 5. Remove the bolt holding the rear brake pedal in place and remove the brake pedal from the motorcycle. Note: Set both the bolt and the pedal aside for reinstallation. 6. Next loosen the nut on the drivers right foot peg, 1 full turn to start with. Then remove the rear nut on the same foot peg. (Note: The bolt that this nut is on goes completely through the motorcycle. This is the center stand mounting bolt.) Now remove the front nut and set both aside for reuse with the MAC system. 7. Install the center stand stop bracket under the left passenger foot peg. Install this bracket with the 90° bend facing down and towards the rear tire. (Note: Center stand sop bracket in provided in the hardware kit and is approx. 5″ long with a 90° bend in it.) Adjust the bracket by one of the large bolts through the foot peg then through the bracket and then install it into the stock location. Put on one of the washers and a nut and snug up the nut. Lower the center stand until the center stand come in to contact with the bottom of the bracket. Tighten the nut until it will hold the bracket securely. 8. Install the rear down tube clamp onto the rear muffler and install the medium sized nut/bolt/washer onto the clamp just finger tight. 9. Install the (2) small bolts into the channel bracket on the rear muffler. Install the rear mounting bracket onto the two bolts and then install the washers and nuts onto each. Tighten the (2) nuts only slight amount so that you can slide the bracket front to rear to insure that when you install the bracket you position it properly. 10. Slide the rear pipe onto the rear down tube about ¼”to ¾” past the pre-cut slots on the rear muffler pipe. Slightly snug the clamp making sure that the position of the bolt and nut will not interfere with any moving parts. The final position of this bolt can hit the tire if it is not positioned properly. 11. Install the other large bolt into the right passenger and then through the top hole in the rear muffler mounting bracket. Insert the bolt into the stock location and install the washer and the nut. 12. Align the rear muffler and you can then tighten the nuts on the rear muffler mounting bracket, the cylinder down tube and the right side passenger foot peg.
13. Install the front muffler on the rear most mounting bolt of the drivers foot peg and put the stock nut back onto the bolt. Hand tighten the bolt only at this time. Note: Install the nut at this time is only to support the muffler and to insure that the pipe does not fall on the ground while you complete the next step. 14. Lift the front head pipe into position and start the stock nuts onto the studs. It is strongly recommended that you install new exhaust gasket at this time. Note: The new exhaust gaskets are not included in the kit but are available at your local Yamaha Dealer. After gaskets are installed hand tighten the front head pipe. 15. Remove the nut from the drivers foot peg bolt and reinstall the drivers foot peg. Note: Hand tighten only at this time. 16. Finish tightening the nuts on the front head pipes. (Install these nuts according to Yamaha’s Factory specifications.) Once the nuts are tightened on the head pipe you can then tighten the drivers foot peg nuts. 17. Reinstall the rear brake pedal and tighten the bolt that holds it on to factory specifications. 18. Check all of the bolts that you have installed of removed to insure that they are tight. 19. Start the motorcycle and check for any leaks. 20. You are finished with your new MAC Exhaust System.

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Kawasaki Mule Lift Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 04-05-2012

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Front Lift Installation 1. Ensuring that the parking brake is set, place jack under center of the Mule front end and lift until front wheels clear the ground. Be careful to support Mule properly so that it is secure, but so that the A-arms and struts can droop to full extension. 2. Remove front wheels. 3. If applicable, remove the heater to allow access to the strut mount behind the heater coil. Heater 4. Starting with the left side (driver side), remove the cotter pin and castle nut that secures the strut to the strut mount. Castle Nut & Pen 5. Push bolt through the bolthole, taking care not to damage the brake line that is attached to the bolt. If you are having difficulty removing the bolt, you may have to remove the brake lines that are attached to the front brakes. In this case refer to owners manual for removing brake lines. Screwdriver NOTE: Keep in mind that if you remove the brake lines you must bleed your brakes according to operator’s manual. 6. Once the bottom of the strut has been loosened, then unbolt the top of the strut. The nuts securing the top strut can be located in the dash of the Mule on the left and right sides. In most cases these nuts are easily accessible, but you may have to remove the glove box or heater coils, depending on the model and options purchased with the Mule.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON PIVOT BOLT COVER INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 22-02-2011

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This kit fits all 2004 and later XL (Sportster®) model motorcycles INSTALLATION Right-Side Pivot Bolt Cover Installation Perform this installation when the engine is cool. Working on or near the exhaust system when the engine is hot could result in severe burns. (00311a) 1. See Figure 1. Start a set screw (2) from the kit into one of the pivot bolt covers (1) about two or three turns. 2. Note the position of the bottom-most flat on the rear-fork pivot hex-head bolt (3). Line up the pivot bolt cover over the bolt head so the set screw is centered on the hex flat. Use the 3/32 inch hex key from the kit to tighten the set screw securely to the head of the rear-fork pivot bolt. 3. Make sure the pivot bolt cover is clean and free of any oil or grease. Remove the protective backing from the adhesive disk on the back of the decorative insert (9). Install the decorative insert onto the end of the pivot bolt cover with the image or text upright and parallel to the ground. Press the insert firmly against the end of the pivot bolt cover and hold pressure for 30 seconds. After releasing pressure, avoid direct contact with the insert for about 20 minutes. Left-Side Pivot Bolt Cover Installation 4. Models without passenger footrests: Use an 8 mm hex key to remove the bolt (5) retaining the double-tube clamp (4). Models with passenger footrests: Use an 8 mm hex key to remove the two bolts (5) and the left-side passenger footrest and bracket assembly (6). 5. Start a set screw (2) from the kit into one of the pivot bolt covers (1) about two or three turns

Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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2008 Kawasaki ZG1400 Concours ABS Front 3-Line Kit and FK003D625R Single Line Rear INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Step 1: Identify the key components that complete our front brake line kit: You should have three (3) hoses, one (1) double banjo bolt, and two (2) single banjo bolts There are also a total of nine (9) washers and (3) brass conic inversors. Seven (7) washers and two (2) inversors will be used; the rest are spares. If you have purchased a rear kit as well, locate the following additional pieces: One (1) hose with bracket and c-clip attached, one (1) single banjo bolt, two (2) brass inversors and three (3) washers. You will use one (1) “olive” conic inversor and two (2) washers, the rest are spares. Step 2: To ensure no paint damage from a brake fluid spill, completely cover the front end of the bike. This process can be messy, and brake fluid WILL drip! Step 3: After drying out the OEM brake system, uninstall stock hoses. On the front brake line kit, we are replacing three hoses and their respective blocks (see pictures 1-2 for blocks) . For the rear, we are replacing one hose from the master cylinder to the ABS hard line. Take note of how the stock system was routed, in case you need to reinstall it. Step 4: Locate Line A – This will travel from the master cylinder to the ABS Junction. (See picture 3) You will use a single banjo bolt and two washers at the master cylinder, and an “olive” inversor to thread female end to hard pipe for incoming ABS (right side). * We have replaced the block at the upper triple clamp with a c-clip; please use your stock bolt to thread this in. (See picture 4) Locate Line B – This will travel from the ABS Junction to the right caliper. First, thread the female end to the hard pipe for outgoing ABS (left side). There will be a bolt from the OEM blocks at ABS Junction; please use this to thread c-clips into frame as shown in picture 5 . There is another bolt/OEM block located at the lower triple clamp; please use this to thread the c-clip in as seen in picture 6. Locate Line C – This will cross over the front fender using OEM holders, from right caliper to left caliper. Thread caliper banjos from Line B and C using the following sequence: double banjo hex, washer, 40- degree banjo from Line C, washer, 20-degree banjo from Line B, washer, caliper. Please see pictures 7 and 8 for reference. Thread single banjo bolt into left caliper, using two washers and 40-degree banjo. If applicable, locate rear Line D – this will travel from the rear master cylinder to the hard line for ABS. Thread the hard pipe into female end using a “olive” inversor, and attach bracket to swingarm as seen in picture 9 . Use the bolt from the holder for ABS hose, and sit our bracket on top of the OEM holder. Using the bolt from the OEM ABS hose holder in location shown in picture 10 , attach the c-clip on top of holder and tighten. Finally, thread 30-degree banjo in caliper using the following sequence: single banjo hex, washer, banjo, washer, caliper

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HARLEY DAVIDSON REAR SWINGARM AXLE COVER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-03-2011

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INSTALLATION Perform this installation when the engine is cool. Working on or near the exhaust system when the engine is hot could result in severe burns. (00311a) NOTE XL Sportster 883 and XL1200R models may require loosening or removal of the rear muffler in order to install the right side rear axle cover. See the EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL section of the Service Manual. 1. Support the vehicle, and loosen or remove the rear muffler if necessary. XL Sportster 883 and XL1200R models: Remove the right-side lower shock absorber mounting bolt. Save for re-installation. All other models: Remove and discard the right-side lower shock absorber mounting bolt. 2. Swing the bottom of the shock absorber out of the way. Position the right-side swingarm axle cover (2) over the swingarm and behind the shock absorber. 3. Reposition the shock absorber. XL Sportster 883 and XL1200R models: Install the shock absorber mounting bolt removed in Step 1. All other models: Install the shoulder bolt (3) from the kit. All models: Tighten the bolt to 45-50 ft-lbs (61-68 Nm) . NOTE When torquing the bolt, align two of the bolt-head flats parallel to the ground. This will allow proper orientation of the bar and shield logo on the bolt cover. 4. Position the bolt cover (4) over the bolt head (3) with the Bar-and-Shield logo oriented upright, and lock in place with the set screw (5). Tighten securely. Reposition and tighten the muffler per the Service Manual instructions. 5. Remove and discard the left-side lower shock absorber mounting bolt. Move the bottom of the shock absorber out of the way. Position the left-side swingarm axle cover (2) over the swingarm and behind the shock absorber. 6. Reposition the shock absorber and install the shoulder bolt from the kit. Tighten to 45-50 ft-lbs (61-68 Nm) , aligning two of the bolt head flats parallel to the ground. 7. Position the bolt cover over the bolt head with the Bar-and- Shield logo oriented upright, and lock in place with the set screw. Tighten securely

Ducati Sport Clutch Lever INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 26-10-2010

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1 To remove your stock lever, use a 19mm wrench or (adjustable wrench) to remove the large sheet metal nut attached to the main pivot bolt that holds the lever. (Photo 1a) Once the locknut is removed, push the main pivot bolt out with your finger or if necessary tap lightly with a rubber mallet or plastic handle end of a screwdriver (Photo 1b) After the pivot bolt is removed, the lever will detach from the master cylinder. (Photo 1c) 1a See other side for further instructions INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR PART # CRC552 ® C/5 Sport Clutch Lever Part # CRC552 1b 1c INSTRUCTIONS_CRC552 12/27/07 10:05 AM 23 4 2 Included with your ASV lever is a plastic bag that contains a custom pivot bolt, spacer & locknut. These parts will replace the OEM Brembo parts that were used with your stock lever. 3 Carefully place the lever into the master cylinder while aligning the plunger rod into the plunger cup on your ASV lever as shown in photo 3. 4 Align the lever and the master cylinder pivot bolt holes and Install the main pivot bolt, you will need to pre-load the lever into the master cylinder to get the bolt through the holes. The bolt head has two cut outs on the sides that need to be aligned with the matching area on the master cylinder. Be sure the head of the bolt seats down into the slotted area of the master cylinder. It may be necessary to use a rubber mallet or Plastic end of a screwdriver (Photo 4) to tap the head of the bolt down into its slot. 5 On the other side of the pivot bolt where the threads are, you will see that there is space around the pivot bolt. You will need to install the aluminum spacer that was supplied in the plastic bag with the pivot bolt and locknut. The spacer has a small flange on one side. The flange should be on the outer side when installing it into the hole surrounding the bolt. (Photo 5a) You may need to use pressure to seat the spacer fully into the hole surrounding the pivot bolt. You should be able to do this by using your fingers or thumbs as shown in photo 5b.

KAWASAKI MULE Electric Steering Installation Manual And Removal

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-05-2012

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Remove plastic center cap on steering wheel by prying off with a small screwdriver. Remove steering wheel nut and remove steering wheel by pulling up on wheel. If wheel is tight have a partner tap on the shaft while pulling up on wheel. Note: Do not mushroom threads on shaft. Remove all screws that retain dash to body of vehicle. Disconnect all electrical connections at back of dash. Mark all wires to ensure easy install. Remove lower steering shaft bolt at rack and pinion. Remove upper bolt at base of steering column. Remove the 2 bolts that retain the steering column to the frame and remove the column and the shaft assembly. Remove lower u-joint on steering column shaft & replace it with supplied u-joint. There is a welded wire retainer on the lower dash tube where the electric motor will sit. You will need to grind off this piece and smooth. Remove the master cylinder bolt closest to the driver side and discard bolt. Your motor and module has been shipped together bolted to the bracket. It is important to follow the install sequence to ensure a proper installation. The lower shaft on the steering motor is marked on the shaft and on the motor. These marks must not be changed. If you remove the shaft it needs to be installed back in the same spot.

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Kawasaki Exhausts – ZX-6 ZX-10 Zx-14 Exhaust – Slip-ons INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo

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1998 – 2002 KAWASAKI ZX 6R AKRAPOVIC BOLT-ON STREET LEGAL EXHAUST SYSTEM Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-11-2010

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1. install the copper gasket from the Akrapovic kit in the groove in the CNC ALU flange (Figure 4) 2. correctly orient the muffler and place it near the link pipe/header assembly (Figure 5) 3. when the muffler and the link pipe are together, attach using the titanium bolts from the Akrapovic kit. Coat each bolt individually with bolt sealant before installing. (Figure 6) Tighten the bolts only hand tight – do not fully tighten! (Figure 7) 4. correctly position the carbon-fiber clamp and slide it onto the muffler – bear in mind the left offset of the carbon-fiber clamp viewed from the rear (Figure 8). WARNING: open the clamp to slightly wider than the diameter of the outer sleeve of the muffler – do not scrape it along the muffler outer sleeve! (Figure 9) 5. tighten the carbon-fiber clamp onto the stock bracket on the frame – use the stock bolts or the replacements from the Akrapovic kit, if supplied (Figure 10) 6. make sure that the BOLT-ON system is not touching any other parts of the motorcycle ! 7. example of the correct position of the installed Akrapovic BOLT-ON system (Figure 11) final installation: 1. Tighten the titanium bolts on the CNC ALU flange at the muffler – link pipe connection and also tighten the bolts on all of the brackets and clamps to which the exhaust system and the other dismounted parts of the motorcycle are attached 2. clean grease spots: a. muffler – titanium outer sleeve: use a soft cloth sprayed with a multi-purpose spray lubricant (WD-40 or equivalent) b. muffler – carbon-fiber outer sleeve: use a soft dry cloth Cleaning will prevent spots from burning onto the surface. Do not use aggressive chemical cleaners, because they can damage the sticker. 3. Check the operation of the brakes and suspension. Make sure all the bolts are sufficiently tightened. In case the exhaust system touches the cowling or other parts repeat the adjustment of the exhaust system or contact your authorized dealer.

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