kawasaki mule only runs on one cylinder

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TRIUMPH 750 BIG BORE CYLINDER AND PISTON SET FOR 650 TWINS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Step 1. Unpack your big bore kit and inspect the contents. There should be the following: 1. Cylinder x l 2. piston with wristpin x 2 3. Hepolite piston ring set x l 4. Special big bore head gasket Step 2. Thoroughly wash the cylinder bores with soap and water. Do not use solvent! Dry bores with air or a lint free towel and let completely air dry. This step is most important and will greatly extend the life of the pistons. Step 3. Following the procedure outlined in your service manual, drain the fuel tank, remove the exhaust system, fuel tank and carburetors. Have a catch basin handy to capture any fuel that may spill from the carburetors, as fuel is highly flammable and can be ignited by a dryer pilot light etc. from a long distance. Clean up any spilled fuel immediately and dispose of away from any source of ignition. Store the fuel tank in a well vented area, outdoors is best, in the event your fuel taps should leak. Step 4. Remove the rocker boxes by slacking the 9 head bolts a little at a time in a star pattern. Remove the 6 nuts at the front and back of the head. Remove the 4 corner rocker box bolts. Remove the head bolts and rocker boxes. Remove the push rods. Examine the push rods to insure they are straight and the ends are tight. Replace any suspect push rod. Step 5. Remove the cylinder head. Now would be a good time for guide and valve renewal. This is best left to an expert. More cylinder heads have been ruined by auto machine shops than by hard use. If you do not have a qualified shop in your area please call for a referral. Step 6. Remove the push rod tubes and the cylinder base nuts. Clip rubber bands around the top of the lifters to keep them from dropping into the crankcase. Have a few lint free rags handy. Bring the pistons to the top of the stroke and begin lifting off the cylinder. If the cylinder is hard to lift off, thread a nut on one of the base studs and use a tire lever to pry against the bottom fin close to its base using the stud as a fulcrum. After partially raising the cylinder stuff the crankcase mouth with rags to keep any carbon or broken rings from entering the crankcase. These will remain in place until step 12. Step 7. Leaving the rags in the crankcase remove the wrist pin circlips from the pistons and discard. Heat the piston and gently push the wrist pin out. Do not use force as this can damage the connecting rod or its bearings. Be sure to account for all the clips as one left in the crankcase can do extensive damage. Step 8. Clean all gasket surfaces to remove any traces of the old gaskets. Use Pennatex gasket remover if needed. Be very careful not to scratch the gasket surface or to allow any gasket particles to enter the crankcase. Even a small bit of gasket can stop the oil pump from working! Step 9. Note the direction and location of the lifters. These must be replaced in the same position as when removed. Remove the lifter blocks from the old cylinder. Start by removing the small retaining bolts and washers. The lifter blocks are extremely fragile and are easily broken. They are also very expensive so great care must be taken in this step! Triumph special tool 222-616008 is advisable here. Apply pressure to the center of the block only. Do not press against the tangs that locate the lifter! A tool can be fabricated using two dowels to locate in the lifter holes. Step 10. Clean and examine the lifters and camshaft faces. Clean the lifter blocks and remove the sealing oring under the locating flange. Replace these with the new orings in the gasket set. Apply a smear of gasket sealant to the lifter block oring and press into the new cylinder. Be sure the lifter block is parallel with the bores and the grooved block is on the exhaust side. Apply a small amount of assembly oil to the lifters and replace in the exact position they came from

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME MASTER CYLINDER AND CLUTCH BRACKET KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-03-2011

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MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL See Figure 1. Master cylinders designed for dual disc (two caliper) operation have an 11/16 inch (17.5 mm) bore, while those that are designed for single disc (one caliper) operation have a 9/16 inch (14.3 mm) bore. The bore size is stamped (1) on the master cylinder assembly inboard of the handlebar clamp bracket. NOTE Do not use an 9/16 inch bore master cylinder assembly on dual disc (two caliper) models or dual disc 11/16 inch bore master cylinder assembly on single disc (one caliper) models. These master cylinder assemblies are not interchangeable. Using the wrong assembly can adversely affect braking efficiency or result in brake failure which could result in death or serious injury. D.O.T. 4 brake fluid will damage painted and body panel surfaces it comes in contact with. Always use caution and protect surfaces from spills whenever brake work is performed. Failure to comply can result in cosmetic damage. (00239b) 1 is 01230 1. Bore stamp size location Figure 1. Verify Correct Master Cylinder Bore Size 1. Open bleeder nipple caps on front brake caliper. Install end of a length of clear plastic tubing over caliper bleeder valves, while placing free end in a suitable container. Open bleeder valves about 1/2-turn. Pump brake hand lever to drain brake fluid. Close bleeder valve. Avoid leakage. Be sure gaskets, banjo bolt(s), brake line and master cylinder bore are clean and undamaged before assembly. (00322a) 2. Remove bolt and two steel/rubber washers to disconnect fitting of hydraulic brake line from master cylinder. Discard washers. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) 3. See Figure 2. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket

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HARLEY DAVIDSON XLH 1200cc BIG BORE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 06-03-2011

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Boring and Honing Procedures 1. Check again for burrs on cylinder gasket surfaces and remove burrs before performing Step 2. 2. Install original head and base gaskets, CYLINDER TORQUE PLATES (Part Number 33446-A) and TORQUE BOLTS (Part Number 33446-4). Tighten TORQUE BOLTS following tightening procedure given in the INSTALLATION, CYLINDER HEAD procedure in the ENGINE section of the Service Manual. NOTE Torque plates, properly tightened and installed with gaskets, simulate engine operating conditions. Measurements will vary as much as 0.001 inch without torque plate. 3. The cylinder must be bored with gaskets and torque plates attached. Bore the cylinder to 0.003 inch under the desired finish size. 1 WARNING CAUTION CAUTION 1 WARNING Kit Number 4. Hone the cylinder to its finished size (See Figure 1) using a 280 grit rigid hone followed by a 240 grit flexible ball hone. Honing must be done with torque plates attached. All honing must be done from the bottom (crankcase) end of the cylinder. Work for a 60 degree crosshatch pattern. 5. See Figure 1. After machining and honing, chamfer the bottom edge of the cylinder liner. the chamfer provides a beveled surface for easier installation of the cylinder over the piston rings. Break leading edge of liner to a flat surface. The bottom edge of the liner will be somewhat sharp after machining. This sharp edge could easily be damaged during installation of the cylinder. Piston Installation The 1200cc pistons have an arrow on the top of the piston. This arrow must face the front of the engine when piston is installed. There is no front cylinder piston or rear cylinder piston. New pistons can be installed in either cylinder. Check piston rings for proper side clearance and end gap (See XLH Service Manual). Be sure end gaps of adjacent rings are installed 90 degrees apart. Assembly Follow assembly and torque specifications given in the ENGINE section of the applicable Service Manual. Replace original gaskets, O-rings and seals with new components furnished in kit. NOTE Push rod covers on 1991 and later models are one-piece and the correct O-rings are as follows: Bottom – Part Number 17944-89 Upper – Part Number 11190 Engine Break In For the first 500 miles, to wear-in critical parts, observe these few simple driving rules: During the first 50 miles, keep the engine speed below 2500 RPM in any gear. Up to 500 miles, vary the engine speed, avoiding any steady speed for long distances. Engine speed up to 3000 RPM is permissible in any gear. Avoid fast starts at wide open throttle. Drive slowly until engine warms up. Avoid running the engine at extremely low RPM in higher gears. 2 of 3 -J00001 1200cc CYLINDER FINAL BORE SIZE AFTER HONING STANDARD BORE DIAMETER 3.4980 inch + 0.0002 inch Figure 1. Bottom Edge of Cylinder Liner Chamfer i04852 Break Edge to Flat Surface

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Kawasaki Mule Lift Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 04-05-2012

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Front Lift Installation 1. Ensuring that the parking brake is set, place jack under center of the Mule front end and lift until front wheels clear the ground. Be careful to support Mule properly so that it is secure, but so that the A-arms and struts can droop to full extension. 2. Remove front wheels. 3. If applicable, remove the heater to allow access to the strut mount behind the heater coil. Heater 4. Starting with the left side (driver side), remove the cotter pin and castle nut that secures the strut to the strut mount. Castle Nut & Pen 5. Push bolt through the bolthole, taking care not to damage the brake line that is attached to the bolt. If you are having difficulty removing the bolt, you may have to remove the brake lines that are attached to the front brakes. In this case refer to owners manual for removing brake lines. Screwdriver NOTE: Keep in mind that if you remove the brake lines you must bleed your brakes according to operator’s manual. 6. Once the bottom of the strut has been loosened, then unbolt the top of the strut. The nuts securing the top strut can be located in the dash of the Mule on the left and right sides. In most cases these nuts are easily accessible, but you may have to remove the glove box or heater coils, depending on the model and options purchased with the Mule.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME FRONT BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-11-2010

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1. See Figure 2. Drain the brake fluid. a. Open bleeder nipple cap on front brake caliper. b. Install end of a length of clear plastic tubing over caliper bleeder valve, while placing free end in a suitable container. c. Open bleeder valve about 1/2-turn. d. Pump brake hand lever to drain brake fluid. e. Remove cover. f. Close bleeder valve. Remove brake line components carefully. Damage to seating surfaces can cause leakage. (00320a) 2. Remove bolt and 2 steel/rubber washers to disconnect fitting of hydraulic brake line from master cylinder. Discard washers. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) is 01010 Figure 3. 5/32 in. (4 mm) Cardboard Insert 3. See Figure 3. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. 4. Using T27 TORX® drive head, remove the 2 screws with flat washers securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the brake lever/master cylinder assembly and clamp from the handlebar. Wear safety glasses or goggles when removing or installing retaining rings. Retaining rings can slip from the pliers and could be propelled with enough force to cause serious eye injury. (00312a) 5. Remove retaining ring from pivot pin groove at bottom of master cylinder bracket. 6. Remove pivot pin and brake hand lever from master cylinder assembly. NOTE New master cylinder comes with all internal components preassembled. It is not necessary to remove the components from the bore of the old master cylinder. See Figure 9. Use denatured alcohol to clean clutch system components. Do not use mineral-based solvents (such as gasoline or paint thinner), which will deteriorate rubber parts even after assembly. Deterioration of these components can cause clutch failure, which could result in death or serious injury. (00296a) 7. With denatured alcohol, clean and inspect all parts that will be reused. Replace as necessary and wipe dry with a clean lint free cloth

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Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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Indian Rocker Arm End Play Rear Cylinder/ Front Cylinder Installation

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Filed Under (Indian) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Rear Cylinder 1Rotate the engine so that the rear piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC), compression stroke, so no load is on the valves. 2Using a 3/16″ allen wrench, remove the four screws securing the rear cylinder rocker cover. 3Remove the cover and inspect both O-ring seals. Discard if damaged or worn. 4Push both rocker arms towards the valve end support bracket (A) and using a feeler gauge check the gap between the rocker arms and the pushrod end support bracket (B). NOTE: The Rocker arm end play specification should be between 0.003″ to 0.012″. 5 Compare the measurement to the specification an determine whether adjustment is necessary. If the end play is within specification, adjustment will not be required. Refit the rocker cover (instructions 14 to 15) and carry out the same inspection on the front cylinder . If the measurement is outside the specification, adjustment will be required and shimming will be necessary (follow the remainder of these instructions). Adjustment 6Using a 1/4″ allen wrench remove the 4 screws securing the rocker shaft assembly.Refit the LH support bracket and reposition the complete assembly on the rocker base. Make sure that the three dowels are in place and the slots in the rocker shafts are properly aligned with the mounting screw holes in the RH support bracket. 11Clean the threads of the 4 support bracket screws and apply Blue Loctite to the first 4 threads. 12Fit the 1-3/4″ screws into the LH support bracket (A) and the 2″ screws to the RH bracket (B). Torque all screws in cross pattern to 16-20 foot-pounds. CAUTION: The rear piston must be at TDC, compression stroke, when tightening the support bracket screws. 13Re-check the rocker end play to ensure it is within specifica- tion. 13Lubricate the two O-rings with clean engine oil and refit them in the grooves in the rocker base. 14Refit the rocker cover.

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S&S Super Stock Cylinder Head Kit Installation Instructions for 1984 And Later Evolution Big Twin and Sportster Engines

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-11-2010

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check Piston Alignment in Cylinder Bore The purpose of this procedure is to check for and correct possible piston misalignment in the cylinder bore. During normal manufacturing, engine components such as crankcases, cylinders, and connecting rods can be machined to dimensions within factory specifications but on the extreme ends of the tolerance range. Sometimes these components when combined together form an assembly that is borderline or actually “out of print”. The worst result is that the pistons can run cocked in the cylinder bores causing the connecting rods to thrust to the sides exerting unnecessary stress on the pistons, rings, rod bearings and other related parts. This procedure is not the same as “blue printing”, but it provides almost the same result. We feel that not enough emphasis is given to checking the piston alignment in the cylinder bore. NOTE – All engines should be checked upon disassembly. This applies to any engine receiving new pistons which includes those being completely overhauled. CAUTION – Pistons which do not run true in cylinder bores may cause excessive connecting rod side thrusting. This may lead to premature ring, piston, connecting rod and rod bearing wear and eventual failure of these parts. Visual Procedure A. Reinstall cylinders on old pistons without rings. Hold cylinders securely in place. B. Move piston tight toward camside of engine. C. Turn engine over in normal direction of travel 2 or 3 revolutions and observe piston during process. D. Move piston toward driveside of engine and repeat Step C. If misalignment exists, piston will appear closer to cylinder wall at one point around circumference. Condition can be corrected by bending rod in opposite direction. Figure 1 shows an exaggerated side view. E. Repeat Steps B to D for other cylinder. F. Remove pistons and cylinders. Observe pistons for wear spots on sides above top compression ring. If either side near wristpin is worn clean while side opposite is carboned up, then piston was not running straight and true in cylinder bore. Piston will also generally show diagonal wear pattern on thrust faces of skirts and possibly signs of connecting rod to wristpin boss contact inside piston.

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Kawasaki Exhausts – ZX-6 ZX-10 Zx-14 Exhaust – Slip-ons INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo

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CYLINDER HEAD REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 28-10-2010

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ADJUSTABLE CYLINDER HEAD STAND Head can be rotated 360 degrees. Stays in any position using a simple locking mechanism. Use on twin or four cylinder heads. Shipping weight: 14 lbs. Adjustable length-10-1/2″ to 20-1/2″ long x 14″ width x 10-3/4″ high. 35-8602 Cylinder Head Stand VALVE GUIDE DRIVERS Use for removal and installation of valve guides into cylinder head. Available in the following sizes: 35-8418 4.5mm YM-4116 35-8416 6mm YM-4064-A 35-8417 5mm YM-4097 35-8414 7mm YM-1225-A 35-8408 5.5mm YM-1122 35-8413 8mm YM-1200 VALVE GUIDE DRIVER SET (REMOVE & REPLACE) Designed for speed and accuracy, this eleven piece set provides the right tool for the job. Driver set includes two valve guide drivers (5.5mm and 6.6mm), four valve guide installers, one cutter, three cutter pilots (5.5mm, 6.6mm, and 7.7mm) and one tap handle extension bar. 35-9445 Valve Guide Driver Set YAMAHA VALVE GUIDE INSTALLERS These installers are used for installation of Yamaha shoulder less valve guides to a specific depth into the cylinder head. To use, position onto the valve guide and drive into the cylinder head until installer makes contact with cylinder head surface. Note: Must use with Valve Guide Driver. Available in the following sizes: 35-8439 4.5mm YM-4117 35-8437 5.0mm YM-4098 35-8419 5.5mm YM-4015 35-8435 6mm YM-4065-A 35-8423 7mm YM-4017 VALVE GUIDE REAMERS Reaming valve guides after installation assures a proper valve stem to valve guide fit. Available in the following sizes: 35-3829 4.5mm YM-4118 35-3851 7mm YM-1227 35-3836 5.5mm YM-1196 35-3852 8mm YM-1211 35-3847 6mm YM-4066 CLOVER VALVE LAPPING COMPOUND KIT The world famous green can with the four leaf clover. For seating valves, mating gears, and sharpening. Sold as a kit with coarse 120 grit (roughing) and 280 fine grit (finishing). 35-0309 Clover Valve Lapping Compound VALVE LAPPING TOOL The ultimate vacuum stick for insuring perfect surfaces on valves and valve seats. Interchangeable cups make unit suitable for use with virtually any size valve. Set includes vacuum stick, 3/4″ and 1/4″ diameter rubber cups. 35-8998 Valve Lapping Too

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