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SUZUKI SV1000 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 26-02-2011

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MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP PRO- CEDURES This section describes the servicing procedures for each item of the Periodic Maintenance requirements. AIR CLEANER I Inspect every 6 000 km (4 000 miles, 6 months) and replace every 18 000 km (11 000 miles, 18 months) . • * Remove the seat. (LF6-7) • * Lift and support the feul tank . (C-74-65) • * Remove the air cleaner box cap O. • * Remove the air cleaner element O. • * Carefully use air hose to blow the dust from the cleaner ele- ment. CAUTION Always use air pressure on the throttle body side of the air cleaner element . If air pressure is used on the other side, dirt will be forced into the pores of the air cleaner element thus restricting air flow through the air cleaner element . PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-5 2-6PERIODIC MAINTENANCE • * Reinstall the cleaned or new air cleaner element in the reverse order of removal . CAUTION If driving under dusty condition, clean the air cleaner element more frequently. The surest way to accelerate engine wear is to use the engine without the element or to use a ruptured element. Make sure that the air cleaner is in good condition at all times. Life of the engine depends largely on this component! NOTE: When cleaning the air cleaner element, drain water from the air cleaner by removing the drain plug . SPARK PLUG Inspect every 6 000 km (4 000 miles, 6 months) and replace every 12 000 km (7 500 miles, 12 months) . No. 1 (FRONT) SPARK PLUG REMOVAL • * Remove the radiator mounting bolt O. • * Move the radiator forward. • * Remove the spark plug cap O. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the radiator fins . A WARNING The hot radiator and the hot engine can burn you . Wait until the radiator and the engine are cool enough to touch . • * Remove the spark plug with a spark plug wrench. 1 6 I It No. 2 (REAR) SPARK PLUG REMOVAL • * Remove the seat. (r–,-6-7) • * Lift and support the fuel tank . (=4-65) 4-65) • * Disconnect the camshaft position sensor 1O and breather hose (Z. • * Remove the rubber heat shield ® . • * Remove the spark plug cap . • * Remove the spark plug with a spark plug wrench . HEAT RANGE • * Check to see the heat range of the plug . CARBON DEPOSIT •Check to see if there are carbon deposits on the plugs . If carbon is deposited, remove it with a spark plug cleaner machine or carefully using a tool with a pointed end . SPARK PLUG GAP • * Measure the plug gap with a thickness gauge . If out of specification, adjust it to the following gap . 09900-20803 : Thickness gauge Spark plug gap OA Standard: 0.6 – 0 .7 mm (0.024 -0.028 in) ELECTRODES CONDITION •Check to see the worn or burnt condition of the electrodes . If it is extremely worn or burnt, replace the plug . And also replace the plug if it has a broken insulator, damaged thread . CAUTION Confirm the thread size and reach when replacing the plug. If the reach is too short, carbon will be deposited on the screw portion of the plug hole and engine damage may result

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SANYANG HD 125/ 200 Specifications And SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Sym) by admin on 24-11-2010

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heck and adjustment Fault condition Probable causes Loosen carburetor drain bolt to check if there is gasoline inside the carburetor Fuel supplied tom carburetor sufficient No fuel is supplied to carburetor Remove spark plug, install it into spark plug cap, and perform a spark test against engine ground. Perform cylinder compression pressure test. Check if sparks Weak sparks, no spark at all Low compression pressure or no pressure Re-start by following the starting procedures No ignition There are some signs of ignition, nut engine can not be started Remove the spark plug again and check it. Remove carburetor after 30 minutes and connect a hose onto fuel rich circuit. Then blow the hose with air Dry spark plug Wet spark plug Blowing in normal Blowing clogged 1. No fuel in fuel tank 2. Check if the pipes, fuel tank to carburetor and intake vacuum, are clogged. 3. Float valve clogged 4. Lines in fuel tank evaporation system clogged 5. Malfunction of fuel pump 6. Loosen or damaged fuel pump vacuum hose 7. Fuel filter clogged 1. Malfunction of spark plug 2. Spark plug foul 3. Malfunction of CDI set 4. Malfunction of AC generator 5. Ignition coil is in open or short circuit 6. Ignition coil leads open or short circuit 7. Malfunction of main switch 1. Piston ring seized 2. Malfunction of cylinder valves 3. Worn cylinder and piston ring 4. Cylinder gasket leak 5. Sand hole in compression parts 1. Malfunction of throttle valve operation 2. Air sucked into intake manifold 3. Incorrect ignition timing 1. Fuel level in carburetor too high 2. Malfunction of throttle valve operation 3. Throttle valve opening too wid

Kawasaki Mule Lift Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 04-05-2012

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Front Lift Installation 1. Ensuring that the parking brake is set, place jack under center of the Mule front end and lift until front wheels clear the ground. Be careful to support Mule properly so that it is secure, but so that the A-arms and struts can droop to full extension. 2. Remove front wheels. 3. If applicable, remove the heater to allow access to the strut mount behind the heater coil. Heater 4. Starting with the left side (driver side), remove the cotter pin and castle nut that secures the strut to the strut mount. Castle Nut & Pen 5. Push bolt through the bolthole, taking care not to damage the brake line that is attached to the bolt. If you are having difficulty removing the bolt, you may have to remove the brake lines that are attached to the front brakes. In this case refer to owners manual for removing brake lines. Screwdriver NOTE: Keep in mind that if you remove the brake lines you must bleed your brakes according to operator’s manual. 6. Once the bottom of the strut has been loosened, then unbolt the top of the strut. The nuts securing the top strut can be located in the dash of the Mule on the left and right sides. In most cases these nuts are easily accessible, but you may have to remove the glove box or heater coils, depending on the model and options purchased with the Mule.

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Honda CG125 Owners Workshop Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 25-11-2010

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Clean the air filter Pull off the right-hand side panel and remove the two nuts which secure the air filter cover. Withdraw the cover, checking that the sealing gasket is in good condition, pull out the retaining spring and withdraw the element assembly. Peel off the inner and outer foam sleeves. Wash all components in white spirit (Stoddard solvent) or in warm water and detergent and dry them thoroughly. Soak the foam sleeves in the specified oil, then squeeze them gently (do not wring them out or they will be damaged) to expel all surplus oil. Refit the sleeves to the element frame. On reassembly ensure that all components are correctly fitted so that unfiltered air cannot bypass the element. 2 Check the spark plug Remove the spark plug cap, unscrew the plug and check its condition, comparing it with the photographs on page 65. If it is badly worn or fouled it must be renewed. If it is fit for further service check the gap and reset it if necessary, as described in Chapter 3.8. 3 Check the valve clearances It is important that the correct valve clearance is maintained. A small amount of free play is designed into the valve train to allow for expansion of the various components. If the setting deviates greatly from that specified, a marked drop in performance will be evident. In the case of the clearance becoming too great, it will be found that valve operation will be noisy, and performance will drop off as a result of the valves not opening fully. If on the other hand, the clearance is too small the valves may not close completely. This will not only cause loss of compression, but will also cause the valves to burn out very quickly. In extreme cases, a valve head may strike the piston crown, causing extensive damage to the engine. The clearances should be checked and adjusted with a cold engine. Place the machine on its centre stand and remove the rocker cover, taking care not to damage the 0 ring. Remove the gearchange pedal and the left-hand outer cover to expose the generator rotor. Remove plug and allow old oil to drain Remove the spark plug, then slowly rotate the engine anticlockwise by way of the generator rotor, watching the inlet valve. When it has opened and closed again (sunk down and risen up to its original position), rotate the engine further until the T mark on the rotor periphery aligns exactly with the raised index mark which is positioned between 12 and 1 o’clock (from the crankshaft) on the generator stator. The engine will then be in the correct position for checking the valve clearances, namely at Top Dead Centre (TDC) on the compression stroke; check that there is free play at both rockers. Using a 0.08 mm (0.003 in) feeler gauge, check the clearance between the top of each valve stem and its corresponding rocker. The feeler gauge must be a light sliding fit, with the rocker and valve stem just nipping it. If necessary, slacken the locknut, and turn the small square-headed adjuster to obtain the correct setting. Tighten the locknut, holding the adjuster at the same time to prevent it from moving. Finally, recheck the setting and then repeat the procedure on the other rocker. 4 Check the contact breaker points and ignition timing Note: since the generator stator plate is located by its countersunk retaining screws, the ignition timing can only be altered by opening or closing the contact breaker gap; therefore both operations are described as one. The full procedure is given here for ease of reference, but if the points are found to be in good condition and if the gap has not altered or is within the tolerance, then the ignition timing will be sufficiently accurate and there will be no need to carry out the full check. First remove the gearchange pedal, the left-hand outer cover, the spark plug and the left-hand side panel

KAWASAKI KX450F SPARK XCR SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 02-05-2012

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1. Place the machine on a stable work stand. 2. If you are not familiar with removing the original exhaust refer to the owner’s manual before you start work. 3. Always allow your machine to cool down before attempting to remove the exhaust. 4. Remove the two bolts from the right side panel. Then remove the side panel. 5. Loosen the stock mid-pipe clamp, then remove the stand-off bolt and bracket bolt that supports the muffl er. 6. Remove stock muffl er and clamp from the stock head pipe. 7. Slightly loosen the stock head pipe at the cylinder head to aid in aligning the parts. INSTALLING THE NEW XCR SYSTEM 1. Installer must use supplied hardware. 2. Slide mid-pipe onto head pipe. Rotate the mid-pipe slightly to obtain proper alignment with sub-frame mount. 3. Install the supplied M8x16mm bolt through sub-frame into the stand-off mount on mid-pipe (Finger tight). 4. Slide the muffl er onto mid-pipe, align muffl er mount with the stock muffl er mount hole, and install and fi nger tighten the OEM bolt. 5. Once you have the system fully aligned, install and tighten all the bolts securely to factory specifi cations. 6. Replace the side panel and secure the mounting bolts. 7. Re-tighten stock head pipe at the cylinder head. TEST RIDING 1. When you fi rst ride the bike be aware that the characteristics are often quite different so start out slowly. TUNING 1. On the KX450F, we suggest using stock jetting based on our testing condition. These specifi cations should only be used as a guideline. Riding at different elevations or climates may require using different settings to obtain peak performance. If you need additional assistance, please refer to your Kawasaki owner’s manual. 2. To convert system from Offroad to Competition specifi cations, remove the 5mm Allen bolt and Spark arrestor. Two different Db lowering inserts are also available (see accessories section on page 2). To return the system to Offroad specifi cation re-install the Spark arrestor into the rear of the muffl er using a small amount of blue thread locking compound (Loctite® 243) re-tighten the 5mm Allen bolt (6.5 ft pounds)

Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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Honda VT1100 Shadow Guide Plug Patch Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 24-04-2011

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Find the guide plug.bn The guide plug is shown in the shop manual with the engine removed from the frame and the left crankcase cover removed. (You’ll find this illustration in the “ELECTRIC STARTER/STARTER CLUTCH” chapter in the “STARTER DRIVEN GEAR/STARTER CLUTCH REMOVAL” section.) It’s a little bit harder to find it on the bike. Start by following the yardstick to see where the guide plug is on my bike. To find it on your bike, lie on the ground (or, preferably a mechanics creeper) next to the bike (without the yardstick) and peek under the shift lever and over the frame There it is, just barely visible from the side of the bike. Here’s what a new one looks like: 2. Clean the guide plug and crankcase. From the front of the bike, clean the guide plug and crankcase with brake cleaner in a VERY focused spray. Let the cleaner evaporate before moving to the next step. Page 4 Rev: Draft 5/20/2007 Page 4 of 5 3. Reposition the guide plug. a. From the side of the bike, use the yardstick (or a long screwdriver if you prefer) to gently push the guide plug back into the crankcase. (Note the JB Weld from the previous patch operation.) b. From the front of the bike, gently push upward on the bottom of the upper tab (as shown below) or the bottom of the forward tab to rotate the guide plug into the proper position while maintaining pressure with the yardstick

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HARLEY DAVIDSON GLOSS BLACK HEAD BOLT COVERS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-02-2011

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This kit fits 1992 and later Evolution 1340 and XL models and 1999 and later Twin Cam-equipped models. INSTALLATION Perform this installation when the engine is cool. Working on or near the exhaust system when the engine is hot could result in severe burns. (00311a) 1. Remove spark plugs. 2. See Figure 1. Install head bolt covers (1), on head bolts (3), secure using setscrew (2) and Allen wrench included with kit. To prevent setscrews from falling into the spark plug holes, start threading the setscrews into the covers before placing them over the head bolts. Position cover on head bolt so that when spark plug is reinstalled setscrew is hidden from view but accessible with Allen wrench. Do not tighten setscrews on high points of bolts. 3. Reinstall spark plugs. Tighten spark plugs to 11-18 ftlbs (15-24 Nm) . If a torque wrench is not available, finger- tighten spark plug and then, using a spark plug wrench, tighten plug an additional 1/4 turn. 4. Readjust setscrew tightness after motor has operated at full operating temperature and then cooled. 2 1 3 is 001586 1. Head bolt cover 2. Setscrew 3. Head bolt Figure 1. Head Bolt Cover Installation

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Kawasaki Exhausts – ZX-6 ZX-10 Zx-14 Exhaust – Slip-ons INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo

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Kawasaki Mule Roof 600, 610 and 4010 Trans Crew, Roof Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 02-05-2012

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INSTALLTION INSTRUCTIONS – Mule 600/610 (4010 Trans skip to pg 4) 1. Place Roof Panel on top of UTV Roll cage and center front to back, and left to right. 2. Using Figure 1 Below – place UTV Roof Mounting Brackets around roll cage bar and using a marker, mark the position of the holes needed in the roof for each Roof Mounting bracket . Figure 1 Copyright 2007 DiamondBack Automotive Accessories, Inc. Page 3 3. Next, remove the roof from the roll cage and using a drill with 1/4″ bit, drill holes using the marks as a guide. 4. Cut (4) 3″ strips of adhesive foam and apply to roof in where mounting brackets are positioned to prevent roof rattling once mounted. Foam should run in the direction of the roll cage as shown in Figure 1 above. 5. Next, reposition the roof on the roll cage according to step 1. 6. Prior to attaching the roof mount brackets, cut the remaining adhesive foam in half and apply one section to the roof in the center of the roof where roof and each roll cage bar meet as shown in Figures 1 above. If additional tape is required to prevent rattling it can be purchased from any hardware store as window sealant foam tape. 7. Next, attach the roof mount brackets according to Figure 2. Use channel locks or pliers to hold top of carriage bolt and turn nut with 7/16″ socket.

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