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Harley Davidson 1990 and later HSR Choke Cable Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-02-2012

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The majority of HSR42/45 installations use the Harley cable. Installation is simple when the installation instructions are followed, step by step. Those steps are: • Remove the stock Harley choke cable assembly. • Remove the spring and plunger from the stock cable. • Remove the Mikuni “Starter Nut” from the HSR. • Remove the Mikuni spring and plunger from the HSR. • Install the Mikuni spring and plunger on the Harley choke cable. • Install the Harley choke cable with the fitted Mikuni spring and plunger into the HSR carburetor. • DO NOT use the Mikuni Starter Nut; discard it. • DO NOT use the Harley spring or plunger; discard them. Note: If you do not have installation instructions, you may download them from the www.mikuni.com website in the “manuals” section. If the Mikuni Starter Nut is fitted to the Harley cable, the choke plunger is held off its seat and the choke is open all the time. If the Harley spring and plunger are used, the plunger does not seal and the choke is open all the time. The result, in both cases, is very poor fuel mileage (30 mpg or less). Another possible cause of poor mileage, rough idle and fouled spark plugs is incorrect cable routing. The stock Harley choke cable is very stiff and may not be fully seated in the metal elbow at the carburetor end of its run. This condition is easily corrected. On occasion, one of these errors may have been made by someone else at another location. The unfortunate mechanic who inherits the task of correcting the rich condition, poor idle and poor fuel mileage may have no clue as to the mismatch of parts. For this reason, we include the photos and text to help you discover if your installation is correct.

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2003 – 2005 Matrix WIND NOISE FROM DOOR GLASS WINDOW RUN REPAIR

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 28-10-2011

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NOTE: Use the same procedure for the LH side as the RH side. 1. Place the window in the down position. 2. Remove the window run. Completely remove the double-sided tape remaining on the frame. 3. Thoroughly clean the door frame using a white body shop towel and Kent Acrysol. NOTE: Do NOT use red shop towels. These towels contain silicone. 4. Install the door glass window run. A. Position the glass run at the No. 2 and No. 3 corners of the door frame and then attach the middle part of the run. B. Insert the glass run into the window run channels. NOTE: Do NOT apply water or lubricant to the glass run when inserting it into the door. Make sure the glass run fits securely into the holes of the door frame

Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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Kawasaki Exhausts – ZX-6 ZX-10 Zx-14 Exhaust – Slip-ons INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo

The New Kawasaki ZX-6R Trading in gets easier and easier

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 18-02-2011

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didn’t go to my local Kawasaki shop expecting to trade in the 2004 636 I’d been happily riding. I honestly didn’t expect there to be anything on the floor that would motivate me to bring the bike in. Some of you reading this may be able to relate to what I am saying, the day you don’t look for something is the day that you find exactly what you didn’t know you need. That was the day I decided I needed to take home the new ZX-6R. The reworking of the new ZX-6R is more than just about looking good. According to KMC the engine has been redesigned from the crankcase up for the first time in ten years. Racing technology built into the new bike is a close-ratio cassette transmission that can be removed without the needing to split the main crankcases in case you needed to make repairs or adjustments at the track. They also tell us that the fuel injection system has shorter throttle bodies with a smaller diameter bore which claim to give this new smaller sized engine more torque in the mid-range. It also comes with a GPS – Gear Position Sensor. The new ZX-6R comes stock with a slipper clutch which is one difference between the 2004 and 2007. My 2004′s rear wheel would hop if I geared down before a corner and my engine rpms were too high. The slipper clutch allows quicker downshifts. To experience the gains of a slipper clutch you don’t have to buy a 2007 Kawasaki – it was introduced to the 636 in 2005. A quick glance at the exhaust might leave the impression that the ZX-6R comes stock with stacked twin small diameter exhaust cans but if you look closely you will see it is a single oval pipe with a shotgun styled end cap. The titanium pipe has the pre-chamber and catalyser located below the engine to keep the weight on the bike low and centered and the temperature of the under seat silencer reduced. Looking at the new Kawasaki with its fairing removed, I wonder how much more it would have cost the consumer to have an exhaust system that not only works wonders but would be worth showing off? Even if some of the systems of the new 600 look better hidden by plastic the bike does have a cohesive look and every year the fit and finish of Kawasaki’s bikes seem to get better. You can look at this bike from almost any angle and nothing jumps out at you – unless you are on the right side of the bike looking at the rear brake reservoir. It seems odd to me that they would leave the rear brake reservoir exposed. Another design feature of the smooth body of the 2007 ZX-6R is the lack of tie down points for any luggage. It can be argued that this is a bike intended for Sunday morning canyon rides or track days on weekends but if you want to take the 600 out for a weekend away then there is aftermarket solution. Ventura Racks allow you go on vacation with your bike. A Ventura Rack provides you with a frame that you attach to your bike that you can secure luggage to. There is no drilling of body work and the Ventura rack I got fit onto the bike perfectly the first try. One of the things I really like about the Ventura Rack is that you can easily attach bags that you may already have or you have the option of buying the Ventura luggage system. Just give yourself time before a motorcycle trip to pack

KAWASAKI STX-12F, STX-15F Riva/Vortech Supercharged STX-15F Engine INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our race bred Supercharger System for the Kawasaki STX-15F contains all necessary engine components to produce the ultimate 80mph closed course race craft. Kit contains the same specifications that Team Kawasaki won two 2004 Pro Runabout World Titles with. System produces over 300hp using VP MS109 race fuel (Jet X). Kit includes Vortech Supercharger & Intercooler Forged Racing Pistons, Free flow Exhaust Kit, Race programmed ECU, High volume Injectors & Fuel Pump along with all necessary hardware and detailed installation instructions. Riva/Vortech Supercharged STX-15F Engine (Team Kawi Spec) PERFORMANCE DATA Stock 61 MPH @ 7,600 RPM Supercharged 80+ MPH @ 8,300 RPM RIVA STX-15F OFFSHORE RACE KIT Our Offshore Racing Kit for the Kawasaki STX-15F contains the same components and specifications that Team Kawasaki developed to dominate the international racing circuit. This modification delivers over 200hp producing awesome acceleration and a top speed of over 700mph using VP MS109 race fuel (Jet X). Kit includes high compression racing pistons, performance intake & exhaust cam shafts, Race programmed ECU along with all necessary gaskets and detailed installation instructions

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2008 KTM 50 SX JUNIOR 50 SX OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 22-10-2010

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Choke Dell’Orto carburetor PHVA 14 DS (50SXJunior) Choke lever [1] is mounted to the right side of the carburetor. If you move the choke lever up to the stop, a hole is opened in the carburetor through which the engine can draw in additional fuel. This results in a “rich” fuel-air mixture required for a cold start. Moving the choke lever back closes the hole in the carburetor again. Choke Dell’Orto carburetor PHBG 19 BS (50 SX) Choke control knob [2] is mounted to the left side of the carburetor. If you pull the choke control knob up to the stop and turn it 90º, a hole is opened in the carburetor through which the engine can draw additional fuel. This results in a “rich” fuel-air mixture required for a cold start. Turning back the choke control knob returns the knob to the starting position and closes the hole in the carburetor again. Kickstarter The kickstarter is mounted on the right side of the engine. Its upper part can be swivelled. Foot brake lever The foot brake lever is located in front of the right footrest. The basic position can be adjusted to the seating position (see maintenance work). Side stand (50 SXJunior) Use your foot to swing the side stand forwards to the stop. Make sure it rests securely on solid ground.

HW Prowler Carburetor Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. Remove both seats and the plastic seat pans under the seats. 2. Remove the engine cover 3. Remove the air-box by removing the cross-bar support that runs under the air-box to the framing on each side by the seat framing and disconnect the air box from the carburetor and from the plastic intake in the rear. 4. Disconnect the engine breather hose from the bottom of the air box 5. Set the air-box to the side 6. Disconnect the plug going to the stock carburetor, this is the electronic choke. Wrap the end left on the vehicle with electrical tape. 7. Cut the fuel line just above the fitting on the passenger side of the carb 8. Remove the side cover off the drivers side of the carb where the throttle cable goes in, see fig. #1 9. Pull the throttle cable out and then remove the throttle cable end from the throttle plate See Fig. #2 10. Loosen the clamp on the rear of the carb holding the carb on 11. Pull the carb out of the intake boot 12. Set OE carb to the side. 13. Push the new Carb into the intake boot making sure the carb is perfectly vertical and then tighten the clamp back up. The new carb is slightly larger than the stock one so some additional pressure will be needed to get it in. 14. Route all the breather lines connected to the carb down under the carb. 15. Connect the throttle cable onto the new carb but putting the cable end in the bottom hole of the throttle plate on the passenger side of the carb allowing the cable to ride in the slot in the plate and then turn the throttle plate clock wise allowing the threaded end of the cable to fit into the lower round hole of the throttle cable connection plate. See Fig. #3 16. Make sure you have a nut on each side of the plate turn the nut on the outside of the plate to take up the slack in the throttle cable then tighten the nut on the inside of the plate. See Fig. #3 17. Push the fuel line onto the fuel inlet on the passenger side of the carb and install the supplied clamp to hold it on. The fuel line will be a little hard to push on. 18. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL THE CHOKE CABLE PARTS SUPPLIED IN THE KIT UNTIL AFTER THE CHOKE CABLE ITSELF IS INSTALLED AND READY TO SCREW INTO THE CARBUETOR. 19. To install the supplied choke cable, drill a 3/8″ hole in the dash on the left side of the steering wheel in a location convenient to your left hand. 20. Remove the plastic nut from the bottom of the choke handle on the choke cable. 21. Push the choke cable thru the hole you drilled and then slide the nut over the cable to the inside of the dash and reinstall back on the back of the choke mechanism. Some dash screws maybe needed to be removed to accomplish this

motorcycle Turn Signal Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 09-11-2010

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1. Place motorcycle on solid, level ground and on center stand if equipped. 2. Remove your turn signal lens. Place it upside down and clean the lens interior with the supplied alcohol wipe. Allow to completely air dry. Note: the LEDs are mounted to the inside of the turn signal lens with the LEDs making direct contact with the lens. The supplied silicone is used to secure the LED board to the lens. It remains flexible but can be removed. Test fit the board in your lens prior to using silicone. 3. Using a small screwdriver, poke a small hole in the end of the tube of silicone. Place a dab of silicone on each of the 12 LEDs on the circuit board. CAUTION : Note the position of the metal pins on the back of the LED board, They must be located 90 degrees from where the holes are that secure the lens to the housing. See attached diagram. 4. Position the round circuit board over the inside of your turn signal lens with the LEDs facing down. Get the board as centered as possible. Allow the silicone to make contact with the inside of the lens and then push down and slightly rotate the board back and forth to allow the LEDs to make contact with the lens surface. Repeat other side. NOTE : the silicone will require 30 minutes in 70 degree weather to tack up. Full cure will occur within 24 hours. We suggest not riding for several hours if possible to allow the best adhesion. 5. You will need to access the following wires; running light (license plate can be used), brake lights, right turn and left turn. Disassemble the bike as needed to gain access to the wiring. Shop Tip: we have found that on the Yamaha Star Series and the Kawasaki Cruisers that installation is much easier when you remove the turn signal bar from the fender. On the Yamahas, there are 3 bolts holding the moustache in position. The wires will unplug from behind the license plate. On the Kawasakis, unplug the signals under the seat and bend the tabs under the fender to be able to remove the wires. 6. We have provided some tubing to slide over the wires so that when you re-install the bulb socket, our wires for the LED boards will not be pinched. This tube should be slid all the way into the turn signal housing. You may have to shorten the tubing for your installation. 7. You will need to run wires through the stem of the turn signal. You can see samples of how the various manufacturers signal housings come apart on our web site. Click on “Other Lighting Products” and then “Turn Signal Conversion Kits” and follow the link. We suggest placing the removed turn signal assembly on a towel on your work area. 7. You will need to leave 2″ of slack in the wires at the turn signal housing to allow for wire connection. 8. Reinstall the turn signal housing back on the motorcycle if removed. NOTE: both of the run/brake circuits must be used. You may shorten the wires only on the run/brake circuits as needed. Do not change the circuits under the heat shrink. T-Tap instructions. Lay the “donor” wire in the slot in the burgandy connector. Close and snap together with pliars. Strip some insulation off of the wire which will be tapping into the factory wire. Crimp one of the pink connectors on the bare wire and plug it into the burgandy T-Tap 9. Connect the green wires from the run/brake circuits to the bikes running lights. The 2 greens can be connected together. 10. Connect the blue wires from the run/brake circuits to the bikes brake lights. The 2 blues can be connected together. 11. Take one of the red wires from a run/brake circuit and connect it to one of the black with white stripe wires coming from one of the LED boards using the supplied red butt connector. Connect the other run/brake circuit red wire to the remaining black with white stripe wire on the other LED board. 12. Connect the black wire from the LED board on the right side of the bike to the right turn signal positive (+) wire on the motorcycle. 13. Connect the black wire from the LED board on the left side of the bike to the left turn signal positive (+) wire on the motorcycle. 14. Plug the wires into the LED boards. If you hold the turn signal lens so that you are viewing the back of the LED board, position the connectors on the board at the 12 o’clock (top) position. The connector on the left is the positive (+) terminal. Connect the red wire to it. Connect the black wire to the remaining connector on the right side. 15. Check operation. LEDs should come on with running lights. LEDs will brighten when brake lights are applied. LEDs will shut off when the amber turn signal comes on. 16. Should you have any problems, please see the troubleshooting chart on our website.* * 17. Reassemble bike

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2004-2007 Kawasaki STX-15F Supercharger Kit installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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ENGINE REMOVAL: 1. Turn ignition off, remove lanyard, disconnect battery cables and remove battery. 2. Remove engine following steps outlined in section 7 of Kawasaki service manual. NOTE: Replace oil filter if engine was run previously. Please recycle used oil and oil filter. NOTE: Clear an area on a sturdy workbench or heavy-duty cart to place engine after removal. Be sure to carefully place engine on a smooth surface so as not to damage oil pan. It is recommended that you have assistance for the engine removal process. 3. Replace stock pistons, rings, piston pins, clips, cylinder head gasket and cylinder base gasket with supplied forged pistons, rings, piston pins, clips, cylinder head gasket and cylinder base gasket following the steps outlined in section 6 of the Kawasaki service manual. NOTE: This is an involved process requiring advanced mechanical skills and 4-stroke engine experience. DO NOT ATTEMPT if you are not mechanically inclined or familiar with 4-stroke engines. 4. Remove OE crankshaft coupler and discard. 5. Locate boss on PTO housing just above crankshaft. Cut off at a 45° angle. (See page 1 of Installation Images) NOTE: Cover end of crankshaft. Thoroughly clean engine afterwards. EXHAUST SYSTEM MODIFICATIONS: 6. Inside hull under rear grab handle remove air inlet tubes. Disconnect hoses for stock bilge pick-ups from breather fittings. (see illustration #1) 7. Remove exhaust hose connecting primary muffler (left water box) to secondary muffler (right water box). Disconnect remaining hoses from breather fittings. Remove exhaust hose connecting secondary water box to exhaust outlet. (see illustration #2) NOTE: Retain hose clamps. 8. Remove section of foam between top deck and pump area and discard. 9. At rear of hull remove and discard plastic exhaust outlet nozzle. Remove exhaust outlet, cut 5-3/4″ from end of flange and weld a bead around modified end of exhaust outlet. (see illustration #3) NOTE: Sand or file edge after modifying. 10. Install one supplied silicone coupler onto modified exhaust outlet and secure using OE hose clamp. (see illustration #4) Install exhaust outlet into hull and secure using stock hardware. (see illustration #5) NOTE: Be sure rubber gasket is in place between flange and hull. Do not use any sealant. Apply blue Loc-tite to bolts. Do not over tighten bolts. 11. Install supplied billet exhaust outlet tip using supplied hardware. (see illustration #6) NOTE: Apply blue Loc-tite to bolts. Do not over tighten bolts.

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