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1981-1983 Yamaha Virago 750 & 920 Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 11-02-2012

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Start by loosening the rear cylinder down tube bolt located on the top of the old mufflers center collector in front of the rear tire. 2. Remove both of the front cylinder exhaust pipe head nuts and set them to the side for reuse with the MAC exhaust system. 3. Remove the right side passenger’s foot peg. Set the foot peg aside as you will need to reinstall it. 4. Remove the left side passenger’s foot peg. Set this foot peg aside as it will also need to be reinstalled. Note: When you remove this bolt the entire exhaust system will be loose and may fall. You will need to support the old exhaust at this point to keep from injuring yourself. Gently move the old exhaust system side to side to remove it from the rear cylinder down tube. Once the exhaust system is loose from the down tube remove the system from under the Virago. 5. Remove the bolt holding the rear brake pedal in place and remove the brake pedal from the motorcycle. Note: Set both the bolt and the pedal aside for reinstallation. 6. Next loosen the nut on the drivers right foot peg, 1 full turn to start with. Then remove the rear nut on the same foot peg. (Note: The bolt that this nut is on goes completely through the motorcycle. This is the center stand mounting bolt.) Now remove the front nut and set both aside for reuse with the MAC system. 7. Install the center stand stop bracket under the left passenger foot peg. Install this bracket with the 90° bend facing down and towards the rear tire. (Note: Center stand sop bracket in provided in the hardware kit and is approx. 5″ long with a 90° bend in it.) Adjust the bracket by one of the large bolts through the foot peg then through the bracket and then install it into the stock location. Put on one of the washers and a nut and snug up the nut. Lower the center stand until the center stand come in to contact with the bottom of the bracket. Tighten the nut until it will hold the bracket securely. 8. Install the rear down tube clamp onto the rear muffler and install the medium sized nut/bolt/washer onto the clamp just finger tight. 9. Install the (2) small bolts into the channel bracket on the rear muffler. Install the rear mounting bracket onto the two bolts and then install the washers and nuts onto each. Tighten the (2) nuts only slight amount so that you can slide the bracket front to rear to insure that when you install the bracket you position it properly. 10. Slide the rear pipe onto the rear down tube about ¼”to ¾” past the pre-cut slots on the rear muffler pipe. Slightly snug the clamp making sure that the position of the bolt and nut will not interfere with any moving parts. The final position of this bolt can hit the tire if it is not positioned properly. 11. Install the other large bolt into the right passenger and then through the top hole in the rear muffler mounting bracket. Insert the bolt into the stock location and install the washer and the nut. 12. Align the rear muffler and you can then tighten the nuts on the rear muffler mounting bracket, the cylinder down tube and the right side passenger foot peg.
13. Install the front muffler on the rear most mounting bolt of the drivers foot peg and put the stock nut back onto the bolt. Hand tighten the bolt only at this time. Note: Install the nut at this time is only to support the muffler and to insure that the pipe does not fall on the ground while you complete the next step. 14. Lift the front head pipe into position and start the stock nuts onto the studs. It is strongly recommended that you install new exhaust gasket at this time. Note: The new exhaust gaskets are not included in the kit but are available at your local Yamaha Dealer. After gaskets are installed hand tighten the front head pipe. 15. Remove the nut from the drivers foot peg bolt and reinstall the drivers foot peg. Note: Hand tighten only at this time. 16. Finish tightening the nuts on the front head pipes. (Install these nuts according to Yamaha’s Factory specifications.) Once the nuts are tightened on the head pipe you can then tighten the drivers foot peg nuts. 17. Reinstall the rear brake pedal and tighten the bolt that holds it on to factory specifications. 18. Check all of the bolts that you have installed of removed to insure that they are tight. 19. Start the motorcycle and check for any leaks. 20. You are finished with your new MAC Exhaust System.

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Indian Rocker Arm End Play Rear Cylinder/ Front Cylinder Installation

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Filed Under (Indian) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Rear Cylinder 1Rotate the engine so that the rear piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC), compression stroke, so no load is on the valves. 2Using a 3/16″ allen wrench, remove the four screws securing the rear cylinder rocker cover. 3Remove the cover and inspect both O-ring seals. Discard if damaged or worn. 4Push both rocker arms towards the valve end support bracket (A) and using a feeler gauge check the gap between the rocker arms and the pushrod end support bracket (B). NOTE: The Rocker arm end play specification should be between 0.003″ to 0.012″. 5 Compare the measurement to the specification an determine whether adjustment is necessary. If the end play is within specification, adjustment will not be required. Refit the rocker cover (instructions 14 to 15) and carry out the same inspection on the front cylinder . If the measurement is outside the specification, adjustment will be required and shimming will be necessary (follow the remainder of these instructions). Adjustment 6Using a 1/4″ allen wrench remove the 4 screws securing the rocker shaft assembly.Refit the LH support bracket and reposition the complete assembly on the rocker base. Make sure that the three dowels are in place and the slots in the rocker shafts are properly aligned with the mounting screw holes in the RH support bracket. 11Clean the threads of the 4 support bracket screws and apply Blue Loctite to the first 4 threads. 12Fit the 1-3/4″ screws into the LH support bracket (A) and the 2″ screws to the RH bracket (B). Torque all screws in cross pattern to 16-20 foot-pounds. CAUTION: The rear piston must be at TDC, compression stroke, when tightening the support bracket screws. 13Re-check the rocker end play to ensure it is within specifica- tion. 13Lubricate the two O-rings with clean engine oil and refit them in the grooves in the rocker base. 14Refit the rocker cover.

1999-2008 FLHT Series Harley- Davidson Trike Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 04-12-2010

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the ¼ – 20 Phillips head screw and Seat. 6. Disconnect negative Battery Terminal. 7. Remove two ¼ – 20 flanged hex nuts from the Stud Plate. Save the Passenger Handrail and two nuts. 8. Remove the Saddle Bags. 9. Remove the Right and Left Side Covers. 10. Remove Inner Tour Pak Molded Liner. 11. Disconnect the Tour Pak wiring. 12. Remove five ¼ – 20 HHCS, ¼ – 20 nyloc nuts, and Aluminum Spacers. 13. Remove Tour Pak from Top Support Tube. 14. Loosen Muffler Clamp on both Mufflers and remove 2 5/16 – 18 HHCS per Muffler. Remove and discard both Mufflers. Save Muffler Clamps. 15. Remove and discard Muffler Support Plates. 16. Remove both ¼ – 20 HHCS and Front Saddle Bag Brackets. 17. Remove the twelve 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS six 5/16 – 18 nuts, and the Left and Right Saddle Bag Guards. 18. Remove the Air Line Junction from the Rear Fender. 19. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness and remove from T-stud Clip.
6 20. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Phillips head screws. Remove the Left and Right Frame Covers. 21. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove and save the Top Tour Pak Support Tube Top. 22. Remove four 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove the Left and Right Rear Saddle Bag Guard Support Bracket. 23. Remove four 5/16 – 18 HHCS. Remove and save the Tour Pak Support Tube Bottom. 24. Remove and discard the Air Valve Assembly Bracket. 25. Remove four ½ – 13 HHCS and washers. Remove and discard both Rear Air Shock Absorbers. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. 26. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 27. Cut and remove Cable ties and un-clamp Wire Harness Loops from the Rear Brake Line along its length, including Clamps on Swing Arm. 28. Remove the 10 – 24 flanged HHCS and Rear Brake Hose Clamp from the Right Rear Fork Bracket. 29. Remove ¼ – 20 SHCS from Rear Stop Lamp Switch Bracket. 30. Remove and discard Banjo Bolt and Crush Washers on Rear Brake Caliper. 31. Remove the Spring Clip and nut from the Rear Axle. 32. Remove Rear Axle and Rear Wheel Spacers. 33. Push Rear Wheel Assembly forward and slip Rear Belt off of the Rear Sprocket. 34. Remove Rear Brake Caliper. 35. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly rearward. Remove one 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS from inside the Rear Fender well. 36. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly forward. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove Rear Fender. 37. Remove and save the two Retaining Washers from the Stud Plate. Remove and save the Stud Plate

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HARLEY DAVIDSON DYNA CUSTOM SEAT KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-02-2011

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WO-UP SEAT INSTALLATION Currently Installed Seat Removal NOTE When performing the following procedures, avoid scratching painted surfaces (fender, tank, etc.) with tools or metal seat tabs. 1. Remove currently installed seat following the instructions in the Owner’s Manual. 2. If a two-up seat WAS installed: Proceed to Step 6, Grab Strap Installation . If a solo seat WAS installed: See Figure 1. Remove the Bar & Shield hole plug (11) from the rear seat mounting hole (1)Seat mounting hole, rear 2. Fender hole, center 3. Seat mounting hole, front 4. Grab strap mounting hole 5. Wire routing hole (reference) 6. Fender hole, front (reference) 7. Hardware location for two-up seat 8. Hardware location for solo seat 9. Seat retention nut 10. Retention washer 11. Hole plug, Bar & Shield 12. Hole plug, plain Figure 1. Fender Hole Identification and Hardware Locations 3. At the front seat mounting hole (3), remove the retention washer (10) from the seat retention nut (9). From the underside of the fender, remove the seat retention nut from the vehicle. Insert the Bar & Shield hole plug into the front seat mounting hole. 4. See Figure 2. Obtain the cable strap (3) from the kit. a. Place the retention nut (1) over the cable strap (3) so that the wide end of the nut rests on the eye of the cable strap. b. Thread the cable strap up under the fender and through the rearmost seat mounting hole. c. Pull up on the cable strap to hold the nut snug against the underside of the fender. d. With the rib on the retention nut seated into the notch in the fender hole, slide the retention washer (2) into place from the rear (this will lock the retention nut in place), then remove the cable strap. 3 2 1 is01955 1. Retention nut 2. Retention washer 3. Cable strap (installation aid) Figure 2. Retention Nut Installation Grab Strap Installation 5. If a two-up seat WAS installed: Remove the existing grab strap and all attaching hardware, then proceed to Step 6. If a solo seat WAS installed: Proceed to Step 6. 6. See Figure 5. Obtain the new grab strap (8), hex head screw (9), plastic retention nut (10), washer (11) and hex nut (12) from the kit. 7. From the underside of the fender, insert the screw up through the grab strap mounting hole and secure with the plastic retention nut.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON TRI-BAR AUXILIARY RUNNING LIGHT/ BRAKE LIGHT ASSEMBLY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-03-2011

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REMOVAL 1. Remove the saddlebags and left side cover. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 2. Remove the main fuse. 3. See Figure 1. Remove six flange nuts (1) from the right and left fender stud plates (2). 1 2 3 5 4 is04366a 1. Nut 2. Stud plate 3. Rear fascia 4. TORX screw 5. Lamp assembly Figure 1. FLHX Rear Fascia and Lamp 4. On the left side of the motorcycle, loosen the set screw and unscrew the radio antenna mast. 5. Gently open the adhesive conduit at the split line to release the rear fascia light harness. 6. At the rear of the motorcycle, spread the top of the fascia to release from the top studs at the side of the fender and then pull the bottom in a downward direction to release the fascia from the fender. If necessary, gently wiggle the fascia while pulling. 7. 2006-2008 models only: On the left side of the motorcycle, remove the bolt (with flat washer) to remove the passenger seat strap and saddlebag front mounting bracket from the chrome frame tube cover. 8. Remove the screw and chrome frame tube cover. NOTE ALL models: Make note of the wire routing and location of all cable straps. New light wiring installs the same way. 9. See Figure 2. Release the rear fascia light wires from the wire clip (1). Cut the cable straps (2) to release the rear fascia light harness (3) and radio antenna cable. 10. 2006-2008 models: Disconnect the rear fascia light connector [12B] located inboard of the upper frame tube. 2009 and later models: Disconnect the rear fascia light connector [12B] located to the rear of the fuse panel. 11. See Figure 1. Remove the two T-20 TORX® screws to release the light assembly from the fascia. Save the screws for installation of the new light. 1 3 4 2 is04378 1. Wire clip 2. Cable strap 3. Fascia light harness 4. Flange nut Figure 2. Rear Fascia Light Harness INSTALLATION 1. Route the rear fascia light wires forward through the cable clip at the top of the radio antenna bracket and then upward in front of the saddlebag rear mounting bracket to the inboard side of the upper frame tube. 2. 2006-2008 models: On the inboard side of the upper frame tube, mate the pin and socket housings of the rear fascia light connector [12]. 2009 and later models: To the rear of the fuse panel, mate the pin and socket housings of the rear fascia light connector [12]. 3. Using the slotted hole, install a new cable strap to secure the rear fascia light wires and radio antenna cable to the rear fender support. 4. Install a new cable strap to secure the rear fascia light wires and radio antenna cable to the shoulder of the upper frame tube (just in front of the air valve mounting bracket).

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2008 Kawasaki ZG1400 Concours ABS Front 3-Line Kit and FK003D625R Single Line Rear INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Step 1: Identify the key components that complete our front brake line kit: You should have three (3) hoses, one (1) double banjo bolt, and two (2) single banjo bolts There are also a total of nine (9) washers and (3) brass conic inversors. Seven (7) washers and two (2) inversors will be used; the rest are spares. If you have purchased a rear kit as well, locate the following additional pieces: One (1) hose with bracket and c-clip attached, one (1) single banjo bolt, two (2) brass inversors and three (3) washers. You will use one (1) “olive” conic inversor and two (2) washers, the rest are spares. Step 2: To ensure no paint damage from a brake fluid spill, completely cover the front end of the bike. This process can be messy, and brake fluid WILL drip! Step 3: After drying out the OEM brake system, uninstall stock hoses. On the front brake line kit, we are replacing three hoses and their respective blocks (see pictures 1-2 for blocks) . For the rear, we are replacing one hose from the master cylinder to the ABS hard line. Take note of how the stock system was routed, in case you need to reinstall it. Step 4: Locate Line A – This will travel from the master cylinder to the ABS Junction. (See picture 3) You will use a single banjo bolt and two washers at the master cylinder, and an “olive” inversor to thread female end to hard pipe for incoming ABS (right side). * We have replaced the block at the upper triple clamp with a c-clip; please use your stock bolt to thread this in. (See picture 4) Locate Line B – This will travel from the ABS Junction to the right caliper. First, thread the female end to the hard pipe for outgoing ABS (left side). There will be a bolt from the OEM blocks at ABS Junction; please use this to thread c-clips into frame as shown in picture 5 . There is another bolt/OEM block located at the lower triple clamp; please use this to thread the c-clip in as seen in picture 6. Locate Line C – This will cross over the front fender using OEM holders, from right caliper to left caliper. Thread caliper banjos from Line B and C using the following sequence: double banjo hex, washer, 40- degree banjo from Line C, washer, 20-degree banjo from Line B, washer, caliper. Please see pictures 7 and 8 for reference. Thread single banjo bolt into left caliper, using two washers and 40-degree banjo. If applicable, locate rear Line D – this will travel from the rear master cylinder to the hard line for ABS. Thread the hard pipe into female end using a “olive” inversor, and attach bracket to swingarm as seen in picture 9 . Use the bolt from the holder for ABS hose, and sit our bracket on top of the OEM holder. Using the bolt from the OEM ABS hose holder in location shown in picture 10 , attach the c-clip on top of holder and tighten. Finally, thread 30-degree banjo in caliper using the following sequence: single banjo hex, washer, banjo, washer, caliper

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Yamaha Rear Suspension Lowering Kit installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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1. This lowering method requires replacement rear suspension coupling components. This is a simple task, and is completely reversible. In addition, this kit provides for a 0″ setting, to easily return your bike to its original height. First, raise the rear tire off of the ground by the frame before you begin. Raise the motorcycle so no weight is applied to the rear wheel, allowing the rear wheel to spin freely. 2. Next, become familiar with your lowering kit. You’ll notice that there are two corners of the lowering component with two holes each, and one corner with a single hole. The corner with the single hole attaches to the swingarm (the bolt that is closest to the rear wheel). The only important part of this familiarization process, is to make sure that you get the part oriented in the correct position. The following photos will explain the purpose of the different holes, and also help you turn the part in the correct position before you install it. Look at the first photo on the next page: In the photo above, the part is positioned just as it should be, for installation on the left-hand side (kickstand side) of the motorcycle. A quick measurement will show that Dimension “A” on Side “A” should be shorter than Dimension “B” on Side “B”. If not, flip your part over (turn the face you are viewing away from you, but keep the corners with two holes on your left), and measure again. Next, study the photo below for info on the different heights you can set your bike to… When installed, Hole “0″ will place the bike at it’s original height. Placing the top bolt in Hole 1, and the bottom bolt in Hole 0, the bike will be lowered approximately ¾”. Placing the top bolt in Hole 1, and the bottom bolt in Hole 1, the bike will be lowered approximately 2″. Simple, eh? Now, let’s move on to installation. 3. Below is a photo of the factory suspension coupling as installed in your motorcycle. This photo was taken from the LH side of the bike, to keep things in perspective with our previous photos. Loosen the three bolts holding the original suspension coupling, and remove. Be aware that the rear wheel will drop down when the bolts are removed, just so there are no surprises!

HONDA FURY FRONT HEADPIPE W/HEATSHIELD, REAR HEADPIPE / MUFFLER W/HEATSHIELD INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 15-11-2010

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Remove your stock exhaust system and stock exhaust mount. Save the (4) acorn nuts that attach the headpipes to the cylinders for later use during installation. 2. Install exhaust mounting bracket onto outside of frame, where stock mounting bolts were removed, by inserting the supplied M10 x 70 mm bolt into the top mounting hole and the shorter M10 x 45 mm into the lower and thru the frame, see Figure 1. Start threading the supplied M10 Nylock nut onto lower and upper bolts but DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN. 3. Loosen the right footpeg/floorboard assembly to help provide installation clearance for the front headpipe. 4. Slide the supplied exhaust flange over the front headpipe and bolt to cylinder using stock hardware from Step 1. DO NOT TIGHTEN at this time. 5. Place the supplied 27-61msc clamp onto the lower muffler slip collar then slide the rear headpipe / muffler assembly onto the front headpipe and into the rear exhaust port. Bolt rear headpipe to the rear cylinder using the stock acorn nuts from Step 1. See Figure 2 for clamp orientation. 6. Bolt the muffler assembly to the mounting bracket using the supplied 5/16 bolts. DO NOT TIGHTEN . 7. Make sure the front headpipe is inserted properly into the rear assembly and make sure the pipes are parallel with each other. Fully tighten the exhaust bracket to the frame first, then the front and rear cylinder acorn nuts attaching the exhaust flanges, then the muffler to the exhaust bracket. Then tighten the 27-61msc clamp last. (NOTE: If the muffler clamp is slid past the slots on the slip collar the clamp will not tighten properly.) 8. Unscrew the remaining hose clamps and feed the tail end of the clamp through the clips on the inside of the heatshields, the larger clamps go to the rear of the heatshields where they will rest on the muffler bodies, smaller ones to the front for the headpipes. The screw end of the hose clamp should be accessible for tightening but not visible when heatshields are mounted to the pipes, see Figure 3. 9. To install the front heatshield, first slide the rear portion of the heatshield over the muffler, continue to slowly slide it forward pushing the front of the shield gently into place between the frame and motor (Hint: Spread the hose clamps apart slightly to make it easier to slide them over the muffler assembly and headpipes). Make sure the muffler clamp doesn’t interfere with the heatshields and is aligned as shown in Figure 2. Snug the heatshield clamps but DO NOT TIGHTEN . 10. Install the rear heatshield in the same manor as the front heatshield. Tighten all hose clamps.

HARLEY DAVIDSON REAR BRAKE CALIPER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-02-2011

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INSTALLATION Prepare the Motorcycle for Service To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Follow the Service Manual instructions to disconnect the negative (-) battery cable. Remove Rear Brake Caliper Remove the Brake Pads 1. For models equipped with saddlebags: Remove the right-side saddlebag. Refer to the SADDLEBAGS section of the Service Manual. 2. Remove the rear master cylinder reservoir cover. 3. Pry both the inside and outside pads away from the brake disc and toward the caliper assembly to push the caliper pistons back into their bores. Use steady pressure to prevent scoring the brake disc. Pry between the pads and the brake disc. 4. When the pistons are fully retracted into their bores, pull the pad pins out to allow the pads to drop from the caliper assembly. Note the pads’ original orientation for installa- tion. 5. Install the cover on the rear master cylinder reservoir. NOTE Place a container under the brake caliper to catch brake fluid released when removing the brake line from the caliper. 6. Remove the banjo bolt fastening the rear brake line to the stock rear brake caliper. Save the banjo bolt for brake caliper installation and discard the two steel/rubber gas- kets. Remove the Stock Rear Brake Caliper 1. Apply isopropyl alcohol to the rubber bumper on the brake caliper to ease removal. 2. Lift the stock rear brake caliper toward the front of the motorcycle. The notch in the caliper must clear the weldment on the swing arm. 3. Remove the caliper from anchor weldment on rear swingarm. Inspect Pad and Pins 1. Inspect the brake pads. If friction material above the backing plate on either pad is 0.040 in. (1.02 mm) thick or less, replace the set. Follow the instructions in the Service Manual. 2. Inspect pad pins for wear and grooving. If wear is more than 0.015 in. (0.38 mm), replace both pins. 3. Inspect the brake disc and, if necessary, follow the instructions in the Service Manual to replace the brake disc. Install the Rear Brake Caliper NOTE Pay close attention to all warnings, cautions, and torque specifications in this instruction sheet and in the service manual when installing this rear brake caliper. NOTE Apply isopropyl alcohol to the rubber bumper for ease of installation. 1. See Figure 1. Position the caliper (1) between the brake disc and the rear fork. The weldment on the fork should fit between the notch and rubber bumper on the caliper. Verify that the full length of the rubber bumper contacts the underside of the weldment

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Kawasaki Vulcan 400/ 800 Preload Improvement Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 01-12-2010

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1. Begin by removing both side compartment covers. The RH compartment cover requires the use of the ignition key for removal; the LH compartment cover is secured by a large Phillips screw. Once you’ve removed the LH cover, place the Phillips screw back into the hole in the frame (so you don’t misplace it) and set both covers aside. In many applications, you must remove the upper exhaust pipe (from the rear cylinder), and loosen the other pipe, to remove the inner parts of the RH side compartment cover (see below). Before attempting step #2 below, try step #3 first… depending on the brand of exhaust pipes you have, you may be able to avoid removal in step #2, if you are successful with step #3 first. Some brands of exhaust pipes provide access to the fasteners securing the RH side covers, eliminating the requirement to remove pipes for rear suspension access. 2. Remove the rear cylinder’s exhaust pipe. To do so, remove the two Allen nuts on the exhaust header, where it attaches to the engine, using an 8mm Allen wrench. Most often, this goes much more smoothly if you first spray the inside of the allen nut with a penetrating lubricant like WD-40. Remove the black acorn nut from the discharge end of the exhaust pipe (under the upper exhaust pipe, near the discharge end of the pipe) using a 12mm open-end wrench or socket. You’ll find a black metal spacer, through which the bolt goes, that is pressed through the rubber grommet. To avoid the potential of having it fall out unnoticed, remove it and place it aside with the nut. Remove the black bolt from the pipe just aft (to the rear) of where the pipe enlarges and above the pipe. This is actually a bracket that holds the two pipes together at a joint. Loosen the bolt using a 12mm socket, then slide it back onto the pipe you’re removing. Once you have the pipe off of the bike, the clamp will be loose. Be sure to keep it with the pipe, along with the rest of the removed parts. Loosen the pipe from the front cylinder BEFORE trying to remove the pipe from the rear cylinder. By loosening the header nuts on the pipe from the front cylinder, and removing the two black Allen bolts (6mm Allen wrench) under the forward pipe that attach it to the frame, you will be able to remove the rear pipe. There are more spacers in grommets where the 6mm Allen bolts secure the lower pipe to the frame (like those used in the rearmost connection o

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