Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-02-2011
LCD DIPSTICK INSTALLATION 1. Remove the original equipment (OE) dipstick from the filler neck. 2. Non-threaded Dipsticks: Lightly oil the O-ring on the new LCD dipstick. Orient the dipstick so that the display window is horizontal and readable from left to right, with the Bar and Shield logo to the left (towards the rear of the motorcycle). Push the dipstick straight into the filler neck until it seats. 3. For threaded dipsticks: Lightly oil O-ring and screw into the transmission like OE dipstick. If the orientation of the display is unsatisfactory when fully seated, refer to Adjusting the Display Angle later in these instructions. NOTE To be sure of correct readings, the dipstick MUST seat firmly against the flange. LCD DIPSTICK USE AND CARE Removing the Dipstick The dipstick assembly must be removed from the filler neck to add oil or to service the internal battery. Displaying the Oil Temperature and Level See Figure 1. Press and release the rubber button on the front face to display the temperature of the oil in the oil tank in degrees Fahrenheit (°F), and the oil level. The display will automatically shut off after approximately ten seconds. Do not overfill oil tank. Doing so can result in oil carryover to the air cleaner leading to equipment damage and/or equipment malfunction. (00190a) NOTES Oil level cannot be accurately measured: • on a cold engine • with the motorcycle upright • with the engine running NOTE Oil level on 2000 through 2004 Softail models with the original dipstick is checked with the motorcycle standing upright (not leaning on the jiffy stand). THIS IS NOT THE CASE with the LCD oil temperature/level dipstick. For all 2000 and later Softail models, oil level inspection must be done with the motorcycle LEANING ON the jiffy stand, on level ground. For pre-ride oil level inspection: With the motorcycle on level ground, RESTING ON the jiffy stand : •The oil level should be as indicated in Figure 1, display 4 through 8 (bars showing oil level, and “COLD OIL” message followed by flashing oil temperature) when the engine is cold. DO NOT ADD OIL to bring the level to the FULL mark on the dipstick of a COLD engine. •If the oil level indicates as in display 9 (animated level bars, followed by an “888 NO SENSOR” code), the wires inside the dipstick may be disconnected or damaged. Refer to Replacing the Battery later in these instructions to separate the dipstick upper and lower assemblies. If the small plug next to the battery has become dislodged from the receptacle, plug it in. If a visible wire is damaged, a repair can be attempted. If no damage is visible, the dipstick is damaged internally and should be replaced. For oil level inspection at operating temperature: Ride the motorcycle until the engine is at normal operating temperature. Idle for 1-2 minutes with the motorcycle on level ground, RESTING ON the jiffy stand (except Softails) , turn the engine OFF.
Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 20-11-2010
1. The Float The float bowl acts as a fuel reservoir to meet engine demand. The float is hinged on a pin in the float boss. It rises and falls with the fuel level in the float bowl. The small metal tang integrated in the plastic float supports the float valve, also known as the float needle. As the fuel in the float bowl rises, the float valve is pushed into the valve seat, until it’s high enough to shut off the fuel flow to the bowl. As fuel is used the level in the bowl drops lowering the float which pulls the float valve from its seat, and fills again. Adjusting the height of the float has a big effect on the mixture as a low or high float level makes it harder or easier for the vacuum to suck fuel into the venturi. Differing float levels cause an imbalance which may be perceived as vibration. 2. The Choke This system is referred to as the choke. But that’s a misnomer. When you pull the choke knob, what you’re doing is retracting a plunger that opens a tube connected to the starter jet, allowing additional fuel to enter the venturi just below the vacuum hose nipple. It supplements the pilot system at start up. 3. The Pilot System The primary purpose of the pilot system is to supply the mixture at idle. It continues to supply fuel throughout the entire throttle range, but after about 1/8 throttle is reached the main system starts to put out more of the total mixture, up to full throttle. By adjusting the idle with the big screw on the left side of the carburettors the position of the butterfly is altered, so exposing one or more of the four small holes that are drilled into the venturi, (leading to the pilot jet) just under the butterfly valve, letting more or less air pass the butterfly. Adjusting the pilot screw that’s under the carburettor varies the amount of air premixing with the fuel before it enters the venturi. 4. The Main System Open the throttle and the cable that’s connected to the butterfly valve turns it from vertical to horizontal, so letting more air through the venturi. This increases the vacuum effect that is transferred up through the vacuum drilling in the slide to the diaphragm valve that leads to the diaphragm chamber. The top chamber is separated from the bottom by a rubber diaphragm. The bottom chamber is open to atmospheric pressure from the airbox. When the vacuum in the top chamber rises enough, the constant ambient pressure of the lower chamber helps the diaphragm valve overcome the downward force of the diaphragm spring, so it rises from the ven- turi. As the diaphragm is raised the needle is pulled out of the needle jet, exposing a thinner portion of the needle taper which allows more fuel to rise into the venturi to meet the increased engine demand. The key parts of the main system are shown in the photo below
Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010
Mount Installation Note: There are different hole locations on the plow mount depending on the bike model. For Prairie 360 use the middle hole locations (B), for Prairie 650 and Twin Peaks 700 use hole locations (A) on mounting plate, as shown in Figure 1. Figure 1 Hole Locations WARN INDUSTRIES PAGE 3 67954 Rev A3 To install the plow mount to the underside of the vehicle install the front two U-bolts PN 60869, and loosely tighten the 5/16″ nuts. Pull the plow mount back in the furthest position and then fully tighten, as shown in Figure 2. For the Kawasaki Prairie 360 use the second set of U-bolts PN 61262 and securely tighten around the frame in hole location (B) . For Kawasaki Prairie 650 and Suzuki Twin Peaks 700 drill a 3/8″ hole through the aluminum skid plate, using the plow mount as a template, as shown in Figure 3. Repeat the same process on the other side. After both holes are drilled attach the mounting plate with the second set of U-bolts PN 61262 and securely tighten around the frame in hole location (A) . Tighten all fasteners securely. Torque 5/16″ Bolts: 20ft. lb.
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-02-2011
INSTALLATION To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 1. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the main fuse. When servicing the fuel system, do not smoke or allow open flame or sparks in the vicinity. Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive, which could result in death or serious injury. (00330a) 2. Remove the currently installed fuel tank from the vehicle. Follow the instructions for the correct model vehicle under FUEL TANK: EFI, REMOVAL in the Service Manual. 3. See FUEL PUMP/FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT, REMOVAL in the Service Manual for instructions to: a. Unplug the fuel pump module connector. b. Remove and discard the top plate screws. c. Remove the top plate, fuel pump and fuel level sender (fuel gauge sending unit) from the tank. NOTE Take care to avoid bending the fuel level sender float rod. A bent float rod will lead to erroneous gauge readings. 2 6 1 3 4 7 9 8 5 is05284 1. Fuel level sender 2. Electrical grounding tab 3. Fuel level sender lock tab 4. Adapter bracket 5. Slot (2) 6. Terminal strip insert 7. Sender to adapter lock tab 8. Slider 9. Adapter to tank lock tab Figure 1. Fuel Level Sender Assembly to Adapter – 4. See Figure 1. Clean the electrical grounding tab (2) on the back of the fuel level sender if necessary. The tab must make firm contact with the terminal strip insert (6) in the adapter bracket. Slide the original equipment (O.E.) fuel level sender (1) into the slots (5) in the new adapter bracket (4) as shown until the lock tabs (3 and 7) snap into place. Make sure the wire is not pinched between the adapter and sender. 5. See FUEL SUPPLY CHECK VALVE/TUBE in the Service Manual. Remove the check valve/quick-connect fitting assembly from the old fuel tank, and assemble to the new tank, using a new O-ring (purchased separately). 6. Fit the slider (8) on the adapter bracket into the fuel level sender mounting channel inside the tank, and push down until the lock tab (9) snaps into place. Make sure the sender and adapter wires are not pinched between the adapter and the fuel tank tunnel, and remain accessible through the fuel tank top opening. 7. See Figure 2. Obtain the assembly of the top plate (1), regulator (2) and fuel filter (3) removed from the old fuel tank, and the stainless steel screw (8) and nut (9) provided in this kit.
Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010
Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.