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Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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Kawasaki Exhausts – ZX-6 ZX-10 Zx-14 Exhaust – Slip-ons INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo

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Kawasaki ZRX1100/ 1200 Competition Meg Series Exhaust INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL IMPORTANT: This product will greatly improve the flow of your exhaust system. RE-JETTING WILLBEREQUIRED after installation. Please consult your local dealer or a certified techhnicial for appropriate recommendations. You will also need to replace the stock headpipe to cylinder gaskets. These are available at your Kawasaki dealer. 1 Using a 1/4 drive 12mm socket with a 12″ extension and swivel, remove the nuts and split flanges holding the headpipe to the ports. (Retain the nuts and split flanges for installation.) 2 Remove the acorn nut holding the stock muffler in place. (Retain for installation.) 3 Remove the two allen head bolts holding the foot peg bracket and remove the bracket. (Retain for installation.) 4 Remove mid-mount bolt holding the headpipe at the rear of the engine and remove system 3 Install collector assembly onto head pipes. Align all (4) headpipes with the appropriate port on the collector (see figure #1). Using a rubber mallet, tap each pipe into the collector. DO NOT hammer the headpipes all the way into the collector, always make sure that the outlet end of the collector assembly is positioned away from the swing arm and engine sump. 4 Slip the muffler over the outlet of the collector assembly. Align the mount bracket so it is pointing upward (the muffler bracket will be on the inside of the foot peg bracket). 5 Slide the stock muffler mount bolt through the mount hole in the muffler and re-install the stock foot peg bracket using the stock hardware. 6 Re-install the stock acorn nut to the muffler mount bolt and tighten. 7 Align all system components and finish seating the primary headpipes into the collector assembly. 8 Tighten each head pipe at the exhaust port. 9 Install (4) springs, supplied in the hardware kit, from the collector to each headpipe and (2) springs from the muffler to the collector assembly. *IMPORTANT: AFTER A SHORT RIDE CHECK AND RETIGHTEN ALL FASTENERS.

Kawasaki Voyager Installation And Removal Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Review entire installation manual Remove saddle bags and rear fender cover Modify rear fender bolt slots Install receiver hitch and double check all bolts Remount saddle bags Assemble InstaTrike hitch cart Attach InstaTrike to motorcycle via receiver hitch Attach leanstop brace bolts to receiver hitch Align InstaTrike wheels Double check all bolts for tightness Test ride InstaTrike slowly in an open area to familiarize yourself with handling characteristics Receiver Hitch Installation INSTALL ALL BOLTS AND BRACKETS LOOSLEY UNTIL ALL COMPONENTS ARE IN PLACE! 1) Place motorcycle on its center stand 2) Remove saddle bags and rear fender 3) At the bottom of the rear fender locate two bolt slots. (bolts were removed from these when rear fender was removed) Open the front end of these slots in order to remount fender. 4) Replace bottom fender bolts about 2 or 3 turns. This is necessary to be able to remount rear fender. 5) Attach bracket A to motorcycle. Locate two threaded holes (6mm) near the top of the sub frame. Bolt top of bracket A to these holes. ( bolts provided ) 6) Attach bracket B ( left side ) / C ( right side ) to motorcycle by replacing the bolt that holds the muffler to the frame and vibration absorber with the new bolt provided. Bracket B/C mounts on the outside of the large chrome washer. 7) Attach brackets A, B, C to the hitch ( top ) 8) Replace rear fender 9) Attach brackets D and E to the motorcycle sub frame with U- bolts provided. Attach brackets to hitch. 10) Tighten all bolts and double check. 11) Reinstall saddle bags

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2009 Kawasaki Voyager Heated Grips Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Remove the Factory Grips Before removing the factory grips, the”chromed plastic”grip end caps need to be removed. The chromed plastic ends are threaded on, but have”left hand”threads, which means to unscrew you need to turn them clockwise. (The opposite way that you would normally unscrew something) To do that I recommend using, either a rubber strap wrench, ora sheet of thin rubber used as you would to loosen the lid of ajar. Once Ihadtheend caps off, I used a sharp utility knife to cut through, and peel off the factory rubber grips. (They are only about 1/8″thicksoit’seasytodo.) With the rubber grips off, I removed the chromed ring that is adjacent to the left switch housing. The left ring will come off, witha gentle pull, but the throttle side ring will need to be cutoff, as it’s pressed on. It’seasytodo; I cut it off using wire side cutters (see picture on page 3 below). 2 Factory left and right Grips After removing the chromed end cap, and the factory rubber grips. The chromed plastic ring next to the switch housing needs to be cut off. Note all the ridges on the sleeve, all these except one ridge need to be filed off. 1. Prepare left handlebar for grip installation The left handlebar is pretty easy to prepare, first I cleaned any glue from the bar, and then gently test fit the left grip, be very careful here as it needs to slide on easily. Asper the instructions, ” Do not force the grip on with anything greater than gentle hand force “. Remember after the test fit you need to take it off again. (You could also crack the heated grip if it’stootight). If you find it too tight, as I did sand the bar using sandpaper until it slides on and off easily. On my bike I used an 80 grit sandpaper, and it took approx 20 minutes to geta good fit

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Kawasaki Voyager 1700 Hitch Removal both saddlebags and Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-05-2012

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Remove the seat. Remove both saddlebags by removing the 3 bolts shown below Remove the plastic liner in the bottom of the trunk by gently pushing in on the center of the plastic clips Once the liner is removed remove the trunk rear light assembly by removing the 4 black screws in side the trunk and 4 on the bottom side of the light assembly. Unplug the light assembly and set it aside. Remove the bolts for the trunk Have a friend hold the trunk up and remove the 4 screws (two on each side) for the side trim Put the bolts back inside the trunk and tighten finger tight to make sure it does not fall. Remove the remaining side trim screws, 5 on each side, and remove the side trim and set it aside Remove 2 bolts from the saddle bag supports. Place the side plate mounting bracket behind the saddlebag supports and replace the two bolts you removed in the previous step. (We recommend using a few drops of Loctite). Do this step for both sides of the bike. Place the side plate behind the mounting bracket and attach the side plates to the mounting brackets with the two bolts supplied with the hitch (We recommend using Loctite on this step) Repeat this step for both sides of the bike

KAWASAKI VOYAGER AIR HORN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 27-12-2010

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1. Remove the false fuel tank cover to expose the battery. Remove the right hand lower leg fairing. (4 phillips screws). Unplug the stock horn and remove the (2) 10mm bolts securing it to the frame. 2. See photo #1 using the stock horn bolts attach the black horn mounting bracket and the white ground wire supplied as shown. Next locate the relay supplied. Plug the stock horn wires into the relay terminals #85 & #86. (see wiring diagram on back side of instructions) 3. Attach the air hose to the compressor air outlet fitting. Attach the short red wire supplied to the compressors positive (+) terminal and the white wire installed earlier to the compressors ground (-) terminal. As shown in photo #2. Attach the compressor to the frame with the hose clamp provided. Note: position the top of the compressor as shown touching the bottom of the horn mounting bracket and approximately 1 Ω” to the rear of radiator and shroud. Also the air hose and fitting should be in front of the frame tube with the hose routed inside the hose clamp without pinching the hose. Attach the red wire from the compressor to one of the relays remaining outer terminals #30 or #87. Attach the remaining long red wire (supplied) to the remaining relay terminal #30 or #87. Secure the relay to the frame with a cable tie supplied. Route the red wire up to the battery positive (+) terminal. Locate the fuse wire assembly provided. Attach the fork end of the fuse wire to the battery positive (+) terminal. Cut the red wire to the desired length, strip the end and crimp to the fuse assembly. Turn on the ignition and press the horn button, you should hear the compressor motor run. Re-install the false fuel tank lid. Re-install the right lower leg fairing while routing the air hose out next to the black horn mounting bracket 4. See photo #3, Bolt the horn set to the black mounting bracket using the 5/16 x æ”bolt, washer and lock washer provided. Trim the air hose to length if necessary and attach the air hose to the horn assembly. Install the trumpet covers. (see instructions enclosed with covers) Turn on the ignition and test the horns

MC 1200 Motorcycle Trailer – 1200 lbs Assembly Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Tongue: Remove tongue assembly from the frame bundle. Insert into the tongue channel and slide into the front cross member of the frame. Secure with two (2) 3/8″ X 4″ carriage bolts and 3/8″ flange lock nuts. Tighten. Thread the tongue wire harness through the front top hole in the tongue and pull out the hole provided in the left side of the tongue towards the rear. Connect to the frame harness with the plugs provided. Install grommets. Safety Chains: Insert a 3/8″ X 1-1/4″ hex bolt into a 3/8″ flat washer, safety chain and then through the lower hole on the front of the tongue. Place on a 3/8″ flat washer on the inside of the tongue and secure with 3/8″ flange lock nuts. Repeat procedure on the opposite side of the tongue. Tighten. Coupler: Mount the coupler onto the tongue with a 1/2″ X 4″ hex bolt trough the rear mounting holes of the coupler. Using two (2) 1/2″ X 1″ hex bolt attach the coupler to the tongue using the front mounting holes. Secure with flange lock nuts. Tighten. Axle: Attach the spring busing in the rear spring shackles with 1/2″ X 3- 1/4″ hex bolts and 1/2″ flange lock nuts. Position the axle under the trailer with spring eye to the front of the trailer. Slip the flat end of the spring in the rear spring shackle above the bushing just installed. Secure the front spring eye to the front spring shackle with 98/16″ X 3-1/4″ hex bolts and 9/16″ hex lock nuts. Tighten. Mount the tire and rim assemblies to the axle assembly with 1/2″ lug nuts and tighten to 80-90 ft./lbs. of torque using the rotation pattern as shown in the Shore Land’r Owners Manual . Retorque the lug nuts after 50 miles of driving and then periodically thereafter. Ramps: Locate the loading ramp. Note that one end has two holes punched in the bottom of the channel. (See parts drawing) Insert a 3/8″ X 1-1/2″ full threaded carriage bolt into one of these holes. Secure in this position using a 3/8″ flange lock nut. Tighten Place a second 3/8″ flange lock nut onto the same bolt only until the threads of the bolt are exposed through the nut locking it in

2003 Kawasaki ZZR 1200 Scottoiler Installation MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Locate the vacuum – There is a vacuum pipe from the inlet manifold, as shown below left, cut into this pipe and insert the T-Piece from the Scottoiler kit. Then Press the Damper Elbow, part number 4, onto the third leg of the tee. The RMV can be mounted under the seat, as shown in the third picture, or behind the number plate. The more vertical the RMV the better and remember to avoid exhaust and engine components. For further information, see our easy step installation guide – ‘RMV Positions, General’ The Dispenser Assembly, shown bottom left, is routed along the underside of the Swingarm using Dispenser Mounting Sleeves & Glue. Note: an epoxy resin (eg. Araldite) is req’d to bond the sleeves to the Swingarm. For further information see our easy step installation guide – ‘Dispenser Assemblies, General’ . The nib should feed the sprocket between the 6 & 7 o’clock positions, with the cut face facing outwards, as shown below

Kawasaki ZRX-1100 / 1200 exhaust system Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove the existing exhaust system and save the flange nuts for reuse. Save the stock exhaust can mounting bolt and nut for reuse as well. 2. Inspect the exhaust gaskets. Replace if necessary. 3. Attach the head pipes 1, 2, 3 , and 4 to the exhaust ports of their respective cylinders, using the flange nuts saved from step 1 above. Loosely apply the flange nuts for now, allowing for ome adjustment. 4. Attach the Y-pipe collectors to the head pipes. Please note that one collector goes to pipes #1 and #4 and one collector goes to pipes #2 and #3 (collectors are labeled). Make sure the ends of the head pipes fit flush and snug in the ports. Do not install the springs at this time. 5. Install the S-Bend to the rear of the two Y-pipe collectors. Do not install the springs at this time. 6. Go back and retighten the head pipe flange nuts per factory specifications – make sure the head pipes are centered in each port. 7. Slide the TiForce end can into place on the S-bend pipe. 8. Loosely attach the two rubber bands, stainless steel bands K, and the stay / hanger G, to the end can using the supplied 6mm hardware H. (See figure 1) . Make sure that the rubber bands fully cover the stainless bands to prevent scratches to the can. 9. Place the bands approximately 108mm from the edge of the end can. (See figure 2) . 10. Go back and tighten the exhaust flange nuts per factory specification. Do not over tighten. 11. Using the stock provided mounting point on the right passenger footpeg, and using the stock mounting bolt, mount the end can loosely, allowing for some adjustment. Insert the stock mounting bolt through the stay / hanger G. 12. Attach the supplied springs to all the joints, starting from the head pipes and working back to the end can. 13. Make sure the exhaust system is free and clear, if necessary jiggle the system to adjust for proper clearance. 14. Carefully align the two stainless bands K so that they are parallel to each other, and spaced properly on the can (refer to step 11 / figure 2), then tighten the 6mm hardware H and the stock mounting bolt hardware. Make sure that the rubber pads fully cover the band(s). USE CAUTION WHEN TIGHTENING THE 6MM HARDWARE AND THE TWO BANDS SO AS NOT TO CRUSH OR DISTORT THE SLEEVE OF THE CAN. 15. Using some brake and contact cleaner on a clean rag, carefully wipe down the entire exhaust system to remove any residual oils, anti seize, fingerprints and dirt prior to starting the motor. FAILURE TO CLEAN THE TUBING AND CAN MAY RESULT IN PERMANENT STAINING OF THE SYSTEM WHEN HEATED. 16. Check that all hardware is properly tightened, and then start the motor and check for exhaust leaks

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