kawasaki kz 750 twin history

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KAWASAKI 1700cc Liquid-Cooled V-Twin Engine 6-Speed Transmission with Overdrive

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 13-12-2010

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Kawasaki’s first production bagger model is ready to take the street by force. The new Vulcan® 1700 Vaquero™ motorcycle combines the authority of a massive 1700cc liquid-cooled V-Twin engine together with low-slung, streetwise styling of a frame-mounted front cowling and lower chin fairing, sleek side-opening hard bags, and a choice of stealthy Ebony or fiery Candy Fire Red monotone paint. Besides its unmistakable style, the Vaquero also includes a smooth-shifting 6-speed overdrive transmission, cruise control, a full-feature audio system, and a host of custom-designed accessories. Get ready to rumble. 1700cc Liquid-Cooled V-Twin Engine The Vulcan 1700 Vaquero’s 1700cc V- Twin bristles with low-rpm torque, ensuring immediate and potent acceleration. 6-Speed Transmission with Overdrive With its overdrive top gear, the Vaquero’s 6-speed transmission teams up with the V-Twin engine for a relaxed highway cruising experience. Frame Mounted Front Cowling Muscular front cowling features a cut-down windscreen for a minimalist look and uninterrupted airflow, and is frame-mounted for light handling. Side-Opening Hard Bags Holding an impressive 9.2 gallons of storage apiece, the side bags integrate neatly into the Vaquero™’s smooth, clean lines. Electronic Cruise Control Conveniently located on the right handlebar, the Vaquero’s standard electronic cruise control precisely maintains speeds between 30 and 85 mph. Full-Feature Audio System High-fidelity audio system features AM/FM and weather radio, and is can be accessorized with iPod players, XM Radio and CB radios. Multi-Function LCD Instrumentation Located on the Vaquero’s stylish “muscle car” inspired dashboard, the multi-function LCD instrumentation clearly organizes and presents all essential information.
Engine Four-stroke, liquid-cooled, SOHC, four valve per cylinder, 52° V-twin Displacement 1,700cc / 103.7ci Bore X Stroke 102 x 104mm Compression Ratio 9.5:1 Maximum Torque 108 lb-ft @ 2,750 rpm Cooling System Liquid, plus cooling fins Ignition TCBI with Digital Advance Induction Digital fuel injection, dual 42mm throttle bodies Transmission 6-speed with overdrive and positive neutral finder Frame Type Steel, double-cradle with box-section single-tube backbone Rake/Trail 30° / 7.0 in. Front Suspension / Wheel Travel 45mm hydraulic fork / 5.5 in. Rear Suspension / Wheel Travel Swingarm with twin air-assisted shocks, with 4-way rebound damping / 3.1 in. Front Tire Size 130/90×16 Rear Tire Size 170/70×16 Brakes, Front / Rear Dual 300mm discs, dual twin-piston calipers / Single 300mm disc, twin-piston caliper Overall Length 98.8 in. Overall Width 38.2 in. Overall Height 50.8 in. Seat Height 28.7 in. Curb Weight 835.7 lbs.** Wheelbase 65.6 in. Fuel Capacity 5.3 gal. Color Choices Ebony, Candy Fire Red Warranty 36 months Good Times™ Protection Plan 12, 24 or 36 months ** Curb weight includes all necessary materials and fluids to operate correctly, full tank of fuel (more than 90-percent capacity) and tool kit (if supplied

Kawasaki KZ750 Twin Carburetor Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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The first Kawasaki KZ750 twin was built in 1975 and sold as a 1976 model as a KZ750B1. For the first four years of production (1976-79), the KZ750B1 through B4 shared identical Mikuni BS38 carburetor assemblies. These assemblies are probably the heaviest twin-carb assemblies ever built and have a couple unique features. The biggest oddity is that the Kawasaki version of the BS38 uses a system where both the pilot jet and main jet are screwed into the float bowl. A good bowl gasket is critical because gas is drawn from the jets into the internal passages that lead to the venturi via channels beneath the gasket inside the float chamber. The pilot jets used are standard BS series fare in that they are Mikuni BS30/96 type but the main jets are unique to Kawasaki BS38 carburetor assemblies. They look like very small air jets and are frequently stripped as they require the correct sized small screwdriver to remove

ODYSSEY DRYCELL MOTORCYCLE BATTERY COMPATIBILITY

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 30-10-2010

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Harley-Davidson Big Twin Evolution and Twin Cam Edelbrock/ JE Sport INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONSsman Pistons

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-02-2011

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INSTALLATION PROCEDURE Note: All Evolution® “Big Twin” pistons are marked “Front” or “Rear” and come with rings, wrist pins, and locks. • Note: We highly recommend that a dealer or trained mechanic perform the installation of these pistons. Specialized equipment is required for honing and finishing the cylinders to ensure long life of the piston and cylinder assembly. 1. Remove original equipment cylinders from engine. Refer to a shop manual or other reference book for specific steps, if needed. (Note: Care should be taken not to bend the studs or damage the cylinder during removal of the cylinders.) 2. With a small screwdriver, move the wrist pin retainer around to gain access to the tail of the retainer as it lines up with the notch in the bottom of the wrist pin hole. 3. Use a small screwdriver, pick or awl to roll the wrist pin retainer out of its groove. 4. Push wrist pin out and remove piston. 5. Repeat procedure for the other piston. 6. At this point, take cylinders, new pistons, and piston-to-wall clearance specifications to your dealer or machine shop to perform necessary machining operations. • IMPORTANT NOTE (Evolution® and Twin Cam®): The cylinder bore must be machined/honed to provide .0025″ of piston-to-wall clearance. Measure the piston diameter at a point .500″ up from the lower skirt (See Figure 3). 7. Starting with the front cylinder, install new piston rings and one wrist pin retaining clip (Note: Second ring has a dot which must face up when the ring is installed) . 8. Place the piston over the conecting rod, making sure that the intake valve pocket is towards the intake side. (For Evolution ® , see Figure 1. For Twin Cam ® , see Figure 2) . Coat the wrist pin with engine oil and insert it into the piston. Install the second wrist pin retainer into the groove. 9. Lightly coat the piston skirt with engine oil. Place a piston ring compressor over the piston/ring assembly and compress. Place the cylinder over the piston and gently push down until all rings are in the cylinder. Remove the ring compressor, and push the cylinder the rest of the way down. (Note: Be careful not to get oil onto the base gasket.) 10. Place two nuts and washers on opposite corners of the #1 cylinder to hold it down while you repeat the procedure for cylinder #2. 11. Assemble the rest of the engine per factory specifications. Start the engine and let it run at 2000 rpm for about 10 minutes.

Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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