Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 28-04-2012
1. Install the Seizmik Brush Guard. – Have a friend hold the brush guard (G) in place while you slide the 1.0″ dia. tube clamps (K) in place over the middle tube of the OEM bumper, as shown in Figure 1. Secure each one in place with one of the 3/8″ x 2.25″ bolts (N), two 3/8″ washers (Q), and one 3/8″ nylock nut (R). Repeat at the top tube of the OEM bumper using the 1.5″ dia. tube clamps (J), and 3/8″ x 1.75″ bolts (O). VEHICLE FRONT Figure 2. 2. Mounting brackets – Attach the two hood rack mounting brackets to the mounting pads of the brush guard, as shown in Figure 2. Use four of the 3/8″ x 1.0″ bolts (P), eight 3/8″ washers (Q), and four 3/8″ nylock nuts (R) per mounting pad. Snug down the fasteners but do not fully tighten them yet. 3 Figure 3. 3. Crush sleeves – Insert a crush sleeve (B) into each cantilever arm assembly (C & D), as shown in Figure 3. 4. Cantilever arms – Position the Driver side cantilever arm (C) on the mounting bracket, and insert a 3/8″ dia. pivot bolt (M), as shown in Figure 4. Add a 3/8″ washer (Q) and nylock nut (R) on the other side and snug down the assembly; leave the fasteners loose enough so the components can be repositioned for fitment. Repeat this step for the passenger side. Figure 4. 4 Figure 5. 5. Lock pins – Insert the 1/2″ lock pins (Y) into the tabs on each side of the Brush Guard, fixing the cantilever arms in place, as shown in Figure 5.
Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 04-05-2012
Front Lift Installation 1. Ensuring that the parking brake is set, place jack under center of the Mule front end and lift until front wheels clear the ground. Be careful to support Mule properly so that it is secure, but so that the A-arms and struts can droop to full extension. 2. Remove front wheels. 3. If applicable, remove the heater to allow access to the strut mount behind the heater coil. Heater 4. Starting with the left side (driver side), remove the cotter pin and castle nut that secures the strut to the strut mount. Castle Nut & Pen 5. Push bolt through the bolthole, taking care not to damage the brake line that is attached to the bolt. If you are having difficulty removing the bolt, you may have to remove the brake lines that are attached to the front brakes. In this case refer to owners manual for removing brake lines. Screwdriver NOTE: Keep in mind that if you remove the brake lines you must bleed your brakes according to operator’s manual. 6. Once the bottom of the strut has been loosened, then unbolt the top of the strut. The nuts securing the top strut can be located in the dash of the Mule on the left and right sides. In most cases these nuts are easily accessible, but you may have to remove the glove box or heater coils, depending on the model and options purchased with the Mule.
Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010
Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.
Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 30-09-2011
73-3844 Replaces: 3977775, 3078511 CLIP -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 2″ Length: 3/4″ G.M. ’64/ UNIT PACKAGE 100 79-5126 Replaces: 20064875 CLIP -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 1 21/32″ Length: 3/4″ G.M. ’78/ UNIT PACKAGE 50 79-5127 Replaces: 20030401 CLIP -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 1 3/8″ Length: 1″ G.M. ’80/ UNIT PACKAGE 50 79-5100 Replaces: 388908-S RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 1-3/4″ Ford ’80/ UNIT PACKAGE 100 74-3945 Replaces: 385330-S, 6003351 FASTENER -HOOD INSULATION Ford & Chrysler Products ’73/ AMC 4005513 ’76 UNIT PACKAGE 100 92-7067 Replaces: 15678493, 21039141 RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 1-9/16″ Length: 1/2″, Hole: 1/4″ Plastic Saturn ’91/ UNIT PACKAGE 25 67-3119 Replaces: 389809, C6GY-16776-A CLIP -HOOD INSULATION RETAINER 1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ Plastic G.M., Ford Products UNIT PACKAGE 50 72-3718 Replaces: 389089 FASTENER -HOOD INSULATION 2″ x 2″ Plastic G.M. Cars UNIT PACKAGE 50 99-8032 Replaces: 385595-S, 386553-S RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Plastic Formerly 74-3944 For Heavier Type Insulation Head: 1-3/16 Ford ’74/ UNIT PACKAGE 50 95-7382 Replaces: N-803613-S RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Hole: 1/4″, Head: 1-3/4″ Stem Length: 7/8″ Plastic Ford Explorer ’91/, Taurus, Sable, Mustang, Continental ’92/ UNIT PACKAGE 50 95-7369 Replaces: W700671-S300 RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 25MM, Hole: 8MM Black Plastic Ford Contour & Mercury Mystique ’95/ UNIT PACKAGE 15 96-7577 Replaces: 01644290, 15678979, 01553-0075U RETAINER -SPEAKER, DOOR SILL, BUMPER, HOOD INSULATOR Black Plastic Hole: M6, Barb Length: 12MM Head Dia.: 11MM, O/L: 19MM G.M. Various Models ’86/, Nissan Altima & Maxima 2002/
Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010
Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo