Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 21-01-2012
1) The “blue” colored screw in the image is the duration adjustment screw. Underneath the head of the screw is a lock nut and the bracket arm that the screw is threaded into. To decrease the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned “clockwise” or in. To increase the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned “counter clockwise” or out. To get the max, amount of decrease remove the screw and take the lock nut off of the screw. Then replace the screw into the cam arm, then replace the lock nut underneath the arm on the screw. this gives you another 3/32″ of an inch in which the screw can be screwed in.
2) Turn the adjustment screw fully clockwise or IN. Start your engine, Blip your throttle open, if the engine stutters, (hesitates), it is not getting enough fuel so turn the screw counter clockwise to increase the amount of fuel squirted from the accelerator pump into the carburetor. Keep blipping the throttle and adjusting the screw till the carburetor starts to cough. Stop here and turn the screw back in till the coughing stops. Tighten down the lock nut. This should give you the best throttle response with the least amount of coughing and backfiring out the carburetor. Timing Adjustment Screw This is the “Green” colored screw just above the Blue duration adjustment screw. The” Mucker” said it best,,,,, This upper screw adjusts the “timing” of the squirt. By altering it’s setting, you can advance or delay the onset of the fuel squirt. But probably, it won’t have to be touched
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012
When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.
Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-12-2010
Step 1 — Locate ‘mold circle’ indentation on each side fairing panel (Pic 1). With panel mounted on bike, this indentation is center, at rear inside panel edge, and faces inside. Temporarily install bracket as shown in (Pic 2), align bottom bracket hole over indentation and mark for hole. Remove brackets at this time. Step 2 — Remove fairing body side panels. Four screws per side required for removal, see owners manual. Drill a 3/8″ hole at mark. If harness kit has not been installed, do not re-install left side panel until finished unless you remove tank to install harness. Removal of the tank is the best option to route harness from battery area to front of the bike. Step 3 — As required, re-install fairing body side panels. Do not re-install the top factory inner panel Torx Screw yet, as you will re-use this screw to secure the top light bracket mounting hole to the fairing panel. Step 4 — Using 10/32×1/2 screws and black shoulder washers from Hardware package, secure lights to PIAA Ezy-Mount® brackets (See Pics 3 & 4). Right side bracket is stamped ‘EZY-MOUNT’. See note below for Powersports lights. Due to close proximity of the light body to fairing side panel, access to the vertical adjustment screw on the panel side of the light will not be possible after installation. To prepare for this; before installing bracket/light assembly to panel, make sure this screw is tightened so that you can barely move the light body. After bracket is installed, final vertical adjustment can be secured with the inside screw. Torque on this screw is adequate to hold vertical adjustment, and the screw that faces the panel will not come loose. NOTE: WHEN INSTALLING POWERSPORTS LIGHTS, YOU MUST INSERT THE SHOULDER ADAPTER WASHER INTO THE LIGHT FOOT, BEFORE INSERTING SCREW TO SECURE LIGHT FOOT TO BRACKET. THIS ADAPTER CENTERS LIGHT FOOT OVER PEMNUT (TIGHTEN THIS SCREW SECURELY). Step 5 — Insert well nut into previously drilled 3/8″ hole. Place bracket assembly against fairing, aligning top hole with the top fairing mounting position; re-install the factory Torx screw at this location. Adjust as necessary and install the second supplied SS 10/32 x 5/8 Torx screw thru the lower bracket mounting hole to the well nut. With constant pressure on the screw, tighten securely. Constant pressure ensures that the rear expandable section of the well nut captures the back of the plastic inner panel as you tighten the screw. Future removal of fairing panels is now possible with light assembly installed (utilizing the bottom bracket mounting screw), thus re-alignment of lights is not required after normal maintenance.
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 06-03-2011
REMOVAL All Models 1. If equipped with saddlebags, removal may ease installation. Follow the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual or Instruction Sheet. 2. See Figure 1. Remove and discard the forwardmost fender support bolt (1). Repeat for the other side. 3. See Figure 2. On the left side, remove the footrest support mounting bolt (1) and footrest support bracket assembly (2). Discard the mounting bolt. 2005 – 2006 Models 1. Loosen the exhaust shields as necessary following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. Move as necessary for access. 2. Loosen the exhaust header nuts following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 3. See Figure 3. Remove bolt (1) connecting the exhaust system (2) to the support bracket (3). 4. See Figure 4. Remove the two rear muffler bracket bolts (1). 5. See Figure 5. Move mufflers enough to access the rear bolt attaching the exhaust mounting bracket to the frame. Remove bolt (1) and discard. 2007 – Later Models NOTE On 2007 – later models, the frame tab (4) has a plug instead of a bolt (see Figure 6, item 1). 1. Remove plug and discard. 1 is05313 1. Fender support bolt (discard) Figure 1. Remove Docking Hardware 1 2 is05320 1. Footrest support mounting bolt 2. Footrest support bracket assembly Figure 2. Footrest Support Bracket Assembl NSTALLATION Right Side See Figure 5 or Figure 6. 1. See Figure 7. Install upper screw (7) in the fender support. Tighten screw finger-tight. 2. Install the lower screw (4 or 5) with the saddlebag guard, washer (9) and locknut (6) inside the frame. Tighten screw finger-tight. 3. Tighten the upper screw to 30 ft-lbs (41 Nm) . 4. Tighten the lower screw to 40 ft-lbs (54 Nm) . Tighten nut to 30 ft-lbs (41 Nm) . 5. 2005 – 2006 Models: a. Loosely install the exhaust header bolts. b. See Figure 4. Loosely install two rear muffler bracket bolts (1). c. See Figure 3. Loosely install bolt securing exhaust system (2) to support bracket (3). d. Tighten exhaust header bolts following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. e. Tighten support bracket bolt and rear muffler bracket bolts following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. f. Tighten exhaust shields following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 6. Install saddlebag (if removed) following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual or Instruction Sheet. 1 2 3 4 is05333 1. Lower saddlebag guard screw 2. Upper saddlebag guard screw 3. Saddlebag guard 4. Exhaust support bracket Figure 5. Install Saddlebag Guard – Right Side Shown (2005 Models) -J04645 2 of 4
2 1 3 4 is05332 1. Lower saddlebag guard screw 2. Upper saddlebag guard screw 3. Saddlebag guard 4. Frame tab Figure 6. Install Saddlebag Guard – Right Side Shown (2007-Later Models) Left Side 1. Loosely install upper screw (7) through the saddlebag guard and the fender support. NOTE Spacer (8) must be installed with the chamfer facing out. 2. See Figure 7. For 2005-2006 Models: Install lower screw (3) through the saddlebag guard, saddlebag guard spacer (8), footpeg support and the frame. Tighten to 30 ft-lbs (41 Nm) . For 2007 and later Models: Install lower screw (10) through the saddlebag guard, footpeg support and the frame. Tighten to 30 ft-lbs (41 Nm) . 3. Tighten upper screw to 30 ft-lbs (41 Nm)
Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 17-12-2011
K&L CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT WRENCHES These tools use tough and accurate bevel gear actuation instead of cable for professional use. The aluminum handle includes index marks for accurate tuning. Sold each. Three types available: 35-9653 Slot-type Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench for Kawasaki/Suzuki/Yamaha 35-9658 Slot-type Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench with longer tip for Kawasaki/Suzuki/Yamaha 35-9650 D-type Keihin Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench for Honda 90-DEGREE 1/4″ HEX DRIVER This gear driven, 1/4″ hex driver set is made of high-grade aluminum and stainless steel. Strongest tool of it’s type on the market. Designed for use on hard-to-reach pilot air screws on inline fours. Can be used with any 1/4″ or 6mm hex bits. 35-7820 90-Degree 1/4″ Hex Driver Set: Includes straight slot, phillips, d-shape pilot screw bit, 6mm hex jet bit & 1/4″ – hex – 1/4″ drive bit. FCR CARB TOOL Set includes three bits – 6mm hex for main jets, long reach straight slot for pilot jets and 3mm allen for float bowl removal. Longer bits make this set ideal for reaching into recessed cavities when adjusting Keihin FCR carburetors. Sold as a set. 35-7978 FCR Carb Tool 12″ DRILL BIT For removal of carburetor plug. (mixture screw plug) 1/8″ bit x 12 inch length. 35-1186 YM-33217-16 JET DRIVER 35-2270 Perfect for removal of jets from small recessed passages