kfx 700 torque specs rod

You search Auto repair manual PDF kfx 700 torque specs rod, if there are search results will appear below. If search results do not exist, please search by others keyword.



  kfx 700 torque specs rod Direct Download speed 5282 Kb/s

  kfx 700 torque specs rod Full Version speed 6162 Kb/s



Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom and Classic cruisers Floorboard/ Footpeg Extension Installation Instructions

0

Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

download
Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.

Incoming search terms:

SUSPENSION SERVICE TOOLS/ FORK DAMPER ROD BLEED TOOL

0

Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 30-11-2010

download
33 SHOP EQUIPMENT & TOOLS SUSPENSION SERVICE TOOLS K&L FORK TUBE U-BLOCKS Precision machined from billet aluminum, these quality three piece sets are a handy, accurate and safe way to straighten and check fork tubes. 35-9411 36mm (for 33 thru 36mm tubes) 35-9412 40mm (for 37 thru 40mm tubes) 35-9413 43mm (for 41 thru 43mm tubes) 35-9414 46mm (for 44 thru 46mm tubes) 35-1964 35-8579 35-7995 DAMPER ROD HOLDERS Holds damper rod when disassembling forks. 35-8578 Yamaha front forks, 43mm Kayaba YZ125/250 (1988) YZ490 (88-90) 35-8579 Yamaha YZ125/250 with UD(upside down) forks FORK DAMPER ROD TOOLS Sold each. 35-7995 Combination Fork Damper Tool Designed to hold the damper rod during assembly & disassembly of Honda XR400′s or Suzuki DR-Z400S. One end features spanner type prongs for the XR400 and the other a 27mm hex for Suzuki. 35-1964 Combination Damper Rod Fork Tool Designed for assembly and disassembly of most inverted Kayaba and Showa 41mm, 43mm, 46, and 47mm forks. Use one end for Kayaba forks and the other for Showa forks. (not required for 91-92 Honda CR models) ROD HOLDER Double sided damper rod holder. Works on Kayaba U.D (upside down) 41mm forks. 35-8580 Yamaha YZ125/250Amodels (89-90) FRONT FORK CAP SOCKET Designed to remove and install Yamaha front fork caps with female hex head. Sold each. 35-8571 14mm female socket 35-8573 19mm female socket FORK DAMPER ROD HOLDERS Holds damper rod when disassembling and assembling front forks. 35-8576 Use for Yamaha 43mm Kayaba forks, 30mm hex YZ125 (84-87), YZ250 (81-87) IT250 (1983) YZ490 (82-87) 35-8577 Use for Yamaha 38mm Kayaba forks, 24mm hex YZ125 (81-83), IT175 (82-83), IT250 (81-82) YZ250 (77-80), YZ400 (77-79), IT465 (81-82) FORK CAP WRENCH Designed to remove the front fork caps on late model Honda CR’s and Suzuki RM’s. Can also be used for adjusting compression. One end of wrench is 49mm, the other is 50mm. Sold each. 35-7803 Fork Cap Wrench 35-8576 35-8577 35-8571 35-8573 6 Point Hex 35-8578

Incoming search terms:

HARLEY DAVIDSON ALUMINUM SHIFTER LINKAGE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

0

Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-02-2011

download
REMOVAL 1. See Figure 1. Remove stock shifter rod (D). 2. Adjust new shifter rod in kit to match the length of the removed shifter rod by loosening locknuts (3), adjusting the length of the rod, then tightening locknuts to 20-24 ft- lbs (27-32 Nm) . 3. For models with a straight rear shifter rod lever: Discard spacer (7). Place cover (1) over the shifter rod lever (C). For models with an offset rear shifter rod lever: Place spacer (7) and cover (1) over the shifter rod lever (C). INSTALLATION 1. Apply Loctite® 243 to threads of capscrew (5) and install cap screw through the rear of the shifter rod and into the shifter rod lever. Tighten cap screw to 13-16 ft-lbs (18-22 Nm) . 2. For 1999 and later FLHT, FLHX, FLHR, and FXDWG models: Place the rod end on the outside of the shifter lever, then apply Loctite® 243 to the threads of capscrew (5). Attach the front of the shifter rod (6) to the shifter lever with capscrew (5) and acorn nut (4) (with acorn nut facing out). Tighten acorn nut (4) to 13-16 ft-lbs (18-22 Nm) . For all models except 1999 and later FLHT, FLHX, FLHR, and FXDWG: Place the rod end on the inside of the shifter lever then apply Loctite® 243 to the threads of cap screw (5). Attach the front of the shifter rod (6) to the shifter lever with cap screw and acorn nut (4). Tighten acorn nut (4) to 13-16 ft-lbs (18-22 Nm)

Incoming search terms:

Kawasaki KVF650/ 700, KSV 700 Camshaft Installation Instructions

0

Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-04-2012

download
Liberally apply assembly lube to every surface of the camshaft. Install the camshaft into the cylinder head (the lobes should be pointed down) and align the decompressor shaft dowels with the weight arms. Install one of the camshaft sprocket holder bolts and tighten to less than finger tight, you should be able to move the camshaft very slightly back and forth, roll the crank over until the other bolt hole is exposed and insert the sprocket bolt and tighten to less than finger tight. Install the cam chain tensioner assembly, do not install the spring, spring dowel, washer, and bolt. Using the spring from the cam chain tensioner very slowly push the tensioner shaft in until the cam chain slack has just been taken out, this is witnessed by the very slight lifting of the opposite end of the cam out of the cylinder head cam journal, do not over tighten the cam chain at this point, if you do, remove the tensioner assembly and retract the plunger again and start over. (If it stays too tight it will stretch the cam chain prematurely and cause cam sprocket damage when the engine is assembled) Roll the camshaft toward the back of the machine (clockwise) loading the sprocket bolts against the back of the sprocket bolt holes, while holding the camshaft in that direction, tighten the sprocket mounting bolt to 14 ft/lb of torque. Rotate the engine in the opposite direction that you rotated it earlier and align the TDC mark, tighten the other sprocket-mounting bolt to 14 ft/lb of torque. Verify the cam timing and crankshaft TDC marks are in alignment

S&S Connecting Rods Installation Instructions

0

Filed Under (S&S) by admin on 29-10-2010

download
1. Female rod crankpin end to mainshaft nuts – .030″ minimum clearance recommended. A. Install sprocket shaft and crankpin in driveside flywheel. Snug nuts only. Do not torque to final specs. B. Slide connecting rods and bearings over crankpin. C. Rotate rods on crankpin, and observe clearance between rod and sprocket shaft nut. D. If additional clearance is needed, remove material from sprocket shaft nut. Do not remove material from connecting rod. E. Repeat procedure for camside flywheel and pinion shaft. 2. Female rod crankpin end to inner flywheel rim – .060″ clearance recommended. A. While checking female rod to mainshaft clearance, observe clearance between crankpin end of female rod and rim of both flywheels. B. If additional clearance is required, remove material from flywheel at point of contact. Do not remove material from connecting rod. 3. Wristpin end of both female and male rods to flywheel edge -.060″ minimum clearance recommended. A. While checking female rod to mainshaft clearance, observe clearance between wristpin end of both rods and rim of both flywheels. B. If additional clearance is required, remove material from flywheel at point of contact. Do not remove material from connecting rod. 4. Wristpin end to crankcase and cylinder – .060″ is recommended in these areas. A. With the camside flywheel and rods mocked up, install the assembly in the right crankcase half with pistons (less rings) and cylinders in place. B. Rotate flywheel through one full revolution and check for rod to crankcase and cylinder spigot contact on both the front and rear of each cylinder. C. File or grind crankcase or cylinder spigot as needed to achieve .060″ clearance. Do not remove morematerial than needed. D. Repeat for left crankcase half. NOTE: Whenever clearancing is performed in any of these areas, do not remove any material from the connecting rods as clearancing on the rods may unnecessarily weaken them. Make adjustments to the point of contact on the mainshaft nut, flywheel rim, crankcase, cylinder spigot, etc. Connecting rods weakened by clearancing may fail causing serious engine damage.

Incoming search terms:

HARLEY DAVIDSON SPORTSTER ALUMINUM SHIFT LINKAGE KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

0

Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-03-2011

download
INSTALLATION 1. See Figure 1. Remove stock capscrews (4) and stock shifter rod (2). Discard stock capscrews. 2. See Figure 2 and Table 2. Loosen the lock nuts (5) and turn the rod ends on the new aluminum shifter rod (1) to match the length of the stock shifter rod. 3. See Figure 2 and Table 2. Slide longer capscrew (3) through the front rod end of new shifter rod (1). Place rod on the outside of the lever assembly. Thread capscrew (3) into the lever assembly. 4. Slide shorter capscrew (2) through the rear rod end of new shifter rod (1). Place rod on the outside of the transmission shift lever. Thread capscrew (2) into the transmission shift lever. 5. Tighten capscrews to 10-15 ft-lbs (13.6-20.3 N-m) . 6. Firmly tighten the lock nuts (5) against the rod ends to 20- 24 ft-lbs (27.1-32.5 Nm) . 1 4 2 4 3 is05394 1. Lever assembly 2. Shifter rod 3. Transmission shift lever 4. Capscrew Figure 1. Shift Linkage Components

2008 FLT Police Models Service Manual Supplement

0

Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-11-2010

download
ITEM SERVICED 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm) Drain plug torque Engine oil and filter 4 qt. (3.8 L) Oil capacity Hand tighten 1/2-3/4 turn after gasket contact Filter 63798-99A Chrome filter part number 63731-99A Black filter part number FORMULA+ TRANSMISSION AND PRIMARY CHAIN LUBRICATION (Part No. 99851-05) Lubricant type and capacity Primary chain lubricant Wet: 38 oz. (1124 ml) Dry: 45 oz. (1331 ml) 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm) Primary chaincase drain plug torque 1/2-1 turn Adjuster screw free play Clutch adjustment 72-120 in-lbs (8.1-13.6 Nm) Adjuster screw locknut torque 1/16-1/8 in. (1.6-3.2 mm) Free play at hand lever 84-108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2 Nm) Clutch inspection cover torque Dipstick at FULL with motorcycle on jiffy stand and filler plug resting on threads. Lubricant level Transmission lubricant FORMULA+ TRANSMISSION AND PRIMARY CHAIN LUBRICATION (Part No. 99851-05) Lubricant type and capacity 32 oz (0.95 liters) 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm) Transmission drain plug torque 25-75 in-lbs (2.8-8.5 Nm) Transmission filler plug/dipstick torque Front: 36 psi (248 kPA) Pressure: solo rider Tire pressure and wear Rear: 36-40 psi (248-276 kPA) Replace if less than 1/32 in. (0.8 mm) of tread pattern Wear 55 in-lbs (6.2 Nm) minimum Spoke nipple torque Wheel spokes 99953-99A (12 oz.) D.O.T. 4 hydraulic brake fluid part number Brake fluid level Front: 0.20 in. (5.0 mm) Fluid level (from top of master cylinder reservoir) Rear: 0.26 in. (6.5 mm) Front: 7-10 in-lbs (0.8-1.1 Nm) Master cylinder reservoir cover screw torque Rear: 12-15 in-lbs (1.4-1.7 Nm) 0.016 in. (0.4 mm) Minimum brake pad thickness Brake pads and discs 75-102 in-lbs (8.5.-11.5 Nm) Brake caliper pad pin torque Front: 0.18 in. (4.5 mm) Minimum brake disc thickness Rear: 0.25 in. (6.3 mm) 0.008 in. (0.2 mm) Maximum brake disc lateral runout (warpage) 10 lb. (4.5 kg) Upward force applied at midpoint of bottom belt strand Drive belt deflection 3/8-7/16 in. (9.5-11.1 mm) FLHTP 1/4-5/16 in. (6.4-7.9 mm) FLHP/FLHPE 40-60 in-lbs (4.5-6.8 Nm) Air cleaner cover bracket screw torque Air cleaner 36-60 in-lbs (4.1-6.8 Nm) Air cleaner cover screw torque LOCTITE MEDIUM STRENGTH THREADLOCKER 243 (BLUE) Air cleaner cover screw Threadlocker Part No. 99642-97 (6 ml) LUBIT-8 SUPER OIL, Part No. 94968-85TV (1/4 fl. oz.) Lubricant part number Clutch cable 35-45 in-lbs (4.0-5.1 Nm) Handlebar switch housing screw torque

Incoming search terms:

Kawasaki KFX 700 INSTALLATION and REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS

0

Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

download
Jetting (see Picture on next page) 1. Remove vacuum slides from carbs. Remove stock needles & spacers, note order of assembly. 2. Install LTE needles on groove # 4 counting from the top down. 3. Remove stock main jets and replace with the supplied main jets. 4. Locate the fuel mixture screws. Using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the mixture screws clockwise until seated, then turn out 2.5 turns.
FINISHING UP Be sure all wires and hoses are zip-tied back so they will not touch the exhaust. QUIET CORES Quiet cores are supplied with this kit but not installed. To install the quiet cores remove both rear end caps ((turn downs) and install the quiet cores with the tubes facing inward. Re-install the end caps. FIRST RIDE Your first ride after installing exhaust should be no longer than 20 to 30 minutes. Let your ATV cool and re torque all of the hardware on your new exhaust. Silencer Packing

Harley Davidson Five Speed Transmissions Hydraulic Clutch Modification

0

Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

download
Hydraulic Clutch Modification for Harley Davidson With Champion Reverse Gear 1 1.1 Install Reverse Gear Assembly to gearbox. 1.2 Remove clutch cover (left side). 1.3 Remove Release Plate (clutch adjustment) and Push Rods. 1.4 Install Hydraulic Clutch Release Cover with supplied spacer and two gaskets. 1.5 Bleed clutch system. NOTE: When bleeding clutch system, lever feel will become hard, do not force lever because piston is at end of travel.(Continue Bleeding) 2 2.1 Install Push Rod. 2.2 Push the rod into clutch assembly to force hydraulic piston to its start position. Push the rod hard until the clutch cylinder is fully compressed. This is the start position. 2.3 Install Hydraulic Clutch Throw-Out Bearing Holder and bearing to push rod. Do not install circlip at this time. 2.4 If the throw-out bearing holder does not fully seat into the Pressure Plate (Figure 2.4), proceed to step 2.5. If shaft is too short then use throw-out bearing holder from Champion Reverse Gear Kit, skip next step and proceed to 3.0 2.5 Measure distance between bearing holder and pressure plate (ensure that push rod is pushed in) Figure 2.4 2.6 Remove bearing holder and push rod, reinstall bearing holder until seated (without push rod). Measure distance from pressure plate to bearing holder. Figure 2.6 2.7 Add measurements taken in steps 2.5 and 2.6 2.8 Add 0.090″ to total of step 2.7 (allowance for clutch plate wear). Measurement should be approximately 1/8″. 2.9 Measure push rod length. 2.10 Subtract measurement of step 2.8 from measurement of step 2.9 (push rod length). This measurement represents the amount of material to be removed from ball end of push rod. (Step 2.11)

Incoming search terms:

S&S 106" Stroker Hot Set Up Kit For Victory Freedom Engines

0

Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 12-11-2010

download
Follow the Transmission & Crankshaft section of your Victory motorcycle service manual for disassembling your Victory engine. 2-Your new S&S crankshaft and connecting rods will require assembly. S&S connecting rods aremachined to use the Orange Victory® rod bearings that are included in the kit (Bearing P/N 3514390-159). Perform rod bearing clearance inspection as follows: A-Wash or clean all of the following components: crankshaft crankpin, rods and rod bores, bearing inserts. B-Place a strip of Plastigauge®across the width of the crankpin. NOTE: Green Plastigauge (.001-.003″) is commonly used for this procedure, it can be purchased at the local automotive parts store. Do not place Plastigauge across oil holes. Be careful not to allow the rods to move during the rest of the inspection procedure. C-Mark the rod and cap at the separation line with a Sharpie®, Dykem®, or permanent marker to prevent rod caps from getting swapped from their original rod during the inspection and assembly process. See Picture2. Picture 1 S&S Crankshaft & Connecting Rods NOTE: Bearings not shown. 3 Picture 2 WARNING
D-Install connecting rods and bearing caps in the same order they were received. E-Torque rod bolts to 5 ft-lbs to seat caps. Then final torque bolts to 40 ft-lbs. F-Remove bearing caps carefully to prevent disturbing the Plastigauge®. G-Measure the widest part of the crushed Plastigauge to determine the rod bearing clearance. Do so by using the bands provided on the Plastigauge label. See Picture 3. H-Specification for oil clearance is: .00091″-.00279″ l If the resultant clearance is less than this specification, the bearings will need to be replaced with the thinner black color coded bearings, not available through S&S (Victory®P/N 3514390-067). l If the resultant clearance is greater than the specification, the bearings will need to be replaced with the thicker blue color coded bearings, not available through S&S (VictoryP/N 3514390-027). l If clearance is not within specification, clean old Plastigauge off components and reassemble rods to crankpin with a new strip of Plastigauge and the thinner or thicker bearings as determined above

Incoming search terms: